View Full Version : sub box
so i got a single cab 1991 s-10 i was wondering if there is a place i could get a sub box for inbetween the seats. if not how could i go about making a fiberglass box?
Mikz86TA
11-22-07, 02:18 AM
I do not know of a prefab box for the s-series thats designed for there. JL Audio and others make a Tahoe (95-99) console sub box. But its more for fill than boom.
Fiberglassing isnt easy nor is it hard. Im not sure that would be my 1st attempt on trying out a new skill. But if you do, there are a few 1st steps to consder. Figure out what size and how many subs you wish to have. And compare that to the availible space. Mounting of the subs is going to be the 1st priority in space. Then approximate airspace is the next concern.
Its hard to judge how much airspace you are going to end up with on a irregular shaped fglassed enclosure. After ite built you can use water to dispalce the area and convert the liquid measurement. Some experienced custom builders can look and give a real close approximation.
But in general nothing is impossible if its well planned and executed. Tho ther are going to be space and comfort drawbacks.
Chrisvich
11-22-07, 12:35 PM
can you throw up a pic of the space we are talking about in between the seats. I agree with Mike it is not easy and not hard. I have made boxes in some tight spots before and just used really thin ply wood to get the shape and laid glass over the top for strength. Or you can get MDF and make a base for the woofer, cut a ring for the sub to fit in and stretch fleece from the ring to base of box, resin the fleece, sand down and paint.
I was actually going to make a new box for my truck this weekend. I will take pics so you get an idea
Perry3147
11-23-07, 11:30 AM
both mike and chris are right. The space between the seat is tight. i work for a shop in pittsburgh and we do alot of loud systems in tight spaces. your best bet is to figure out what you want before you start. Are you looking for some fill bass or looking for loud bass. either way i would go with a 10"sub. What ever you do look into which type of system you are thinking of doing. For a fill system a sealed box might be better becouse they use less air space(smaller box). Loud system(spl) I would run a ported box they take more space but depending on whats behind your seats you cna use that space too. Take a look at the web page for some ideas. i dont think we have pics up of the truck we did with the box between the seats. But we have done everything from dump trucks and school buses to car show winners and custom ad cars. here's the link check it out. Im not saying we are the best or anything like that but just for some ideas. But once you pick which type of system let me know i can help you with a little more info on what you can do to get better sound or more air space and some other stuff (a trick or two)
Everfalling
11-23-07, 12:54 PM
I have a nasty pioneer 10" that is designed for low to now air applications.....I could possibly fit about 4 behind my seats without moving the seats at all...the box I got custom made. I have only 1 atm but they work good.
holsinger17
11-23-07, 12:58 PM
a buddy of mine actually tucked 2 12's behind his seats in his 1st gen it but it didnt sound the best....there is some room behind the seats but you may not get to sit back as far as you used to....the center console idea is good....he did eventually switch his bench seat out for a set of seats out of an eclipse spyder like a 96 i think and it opened up some room for an enclusre for 2 10's if you run a ported box you could run the port to be inbetween the seats on each side and for air space to make the box big enough you could stretch the console both forward, say up under the dash, and back to the back of the cab. hopefully i've given you some what of an idea.
Perry3147
11-23-07, 01:26 PM
crap forgot to add the link
www.88audio.com (http://www.88audio.com)
White-V-6-S-Ten
11-23-07, 08:14 PM
Get a teanu cover and then put the subs back there and cut a big hole on the back so you can get the bass in the cab...
There arent many options for good bass
I personally wouldnt do that but...
Perry3147
11-23-07, 08:21 PM
thats called a walk through. no good what so ever on a daily driver. and unless you are compeating not worth the work. there is plenty of ways to get alot of bass in a standard cab. it all depends on what you want to do spl(loud booming bass) or fill(kinda like suround sound at you house). both can be done WITHOUT cutting the cab.
i just want loud bass that sounds good this is the only ok pictures of my room too work with.....http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/5690/somewhat003fj2.jpg
Perry3147
11-24-07, 11:10 AM
are you looking to run all the way to the dash or do you want to leave it open. i would run it all the way even if you just fab up a amp rack and just display the amp. i would prob use a single 10 in a ported box that would put the sub between the seats and use the space behind the seats to get the air space correct. just from what we sell i would say a power bass "3xl 10" and a 1000 rms amp. and it will be loud and clean so if you add a screen it wont be too much for a movie.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u56/tuteuk/stdcab210.jpg
Simple..yet effective...NO fiberglass involved...:)
haha ya but i only want 1 ten inch sub i got wo amps at 350 watts and the other is 1000 watts i would go too the dash cause then i would use it as an arm rest hahaha .....
Perry3147
11-24-07, 07:16 PM
yea i would run your highs on the small amp and pound a single 10. If you build it and port it right i would say you should hit in the high 140's spl. just so you know a jumbo jet taking off is 150 spl.
Chrisvich
11-24-07, 11:49 PM
SPL or decibels? If its decibels then 140 is easy to get. Its getting to 160 thats the problem just like shaving that extra second off your qtr mile time from 13 to 12
Chrisvich
11-29-07, 08:44 AM
It depends on the speaker...mounting depth can be b/w 4 to 6+ inches and the space b/w the seats isnt much more than that. you may have to expand it out toward the dash
Perry3147
11-29-07, 12:20 PM
SPL or decibels? If its decibels then 140 is easy to get. Its getting to 160 thats the problem just like shaving that extra second off your qtr mile time from 13 to 12
well your right. spl and db are diffrent and the same. SPL (sound pressure level) is whats used to determin db. if you ever herd of Db Drag racing. They use Spl to measure.
As for the idea i would run the main box behind the seat (ported box by the way) with the sub between the seats at the bottom. The run the amp rack/ center console to the dash. hiding everything and still showing it off.
holsinger17
11-29-07, 12:58 PM
if you do a fiberglass box it can open up alot of options you can basically put your port almost any where and even with a cool design.. you can angle your speaker so it could get the right amount of space behind it..the thing about glassing is it takes a lot of prep and cure time...good thing is..is that after the inital rough box is made you can take your sweet time getting the look of the box just right and still be driving your truck
as for the idea i would run the main box behind the seat (ported box by the way) with the sub between the seats at the bottom. The run the amp rack/ center console to the dash. hiding everything and still showing it off.
what do mean ported box?
Chrisvich
11-30-07, 07:39 AM
Taken from Crutchfield website:
Subwoofer Enclosures
The type of bass you get from your component subwoofer doesn't depend on the woofer alone. You'll need a strong, tightly-constructed enclosure, such the Q-Logic boxes offered by Crutchfield, for optimum subwoofer performance. Speakers without an enclosure can't deliver full bass because the sound from the back of the speaker can cancel out some low frequencies emanating from the front of the speaker.
Using our box-building accessories, you might choose to construct your own box to create the enclosure size that you want. However, unless you have excellent craftsman skills and a solid understanding of enclosure volumes and other technical terms, you're better off purchasing a convenient, professional-looking pre-made enclosure.
Different types of boxes will produce different types of bass:
Sealed boxes: For deep, precise bass
A sealed box is an airtight enclosure housing your subwoofer. A sealed box is best for any music that demands tight, accurate bass. Expect flat response (not excessively boomy), deep bass extension, and excellent power handling. Since a sealed enclosure tends to require more power than a ported box, use an amplifier with ample wattage for optimum performance.
Ported boxes: For forceful bass
Ported boxes use a vent (called a port) to reinforce low bass response. You get more output than you would from a sealed box at any given amplifier wattage. Some people prefer the sound of ported boxes for rock, heavy metal, or any hard-driving music. Ported boxes can deliver deeper bass than sealed boxes, though they need to be much larger than sealed enclosures to accomplish that.
The Q-Logic ported boxes we offer come with pre-cut port holes (sealed with a plastic port plug) and trimmable ports.
Bandpass boxes: Maximum slam!
Bandpass boxes are a special type of ported box designed for maximum slam. The woofer is mounted inside a dual-chambered box (one chamber sealed, the other ported), with the sound waves emerging from the ported side. The sound that comes out of the port is extra loud within a narrow frequency range.
Because bandpass boxes are super efficient within that range, they tend to boom. Their aggressive sound is great for rap, reggae, and hard rock. Not all subwoofers work well in bandpass boxes, though; consult our product information or call a Product Advisor to be sure.
Choosing an enclosure for your subwoofer
Q-Logic's convenient enclosure ratings are being adopted by more and more manufacturers. Here's how it works — pick a subwoofer from Crutchfield's wide selection, and you'll notice a recommendation for "Box Type" listed in the sub's Key Features (based on the manufacturer's air space recommendations). We check every sub for fit, so if you want to see boxes that work with the sub you selected, click on "Recommended Accessories." If you don't see a particular box listed for your sub (or if no box is listed), call a Product Advisor at 1-888-955-6000 to check out your options.
Perry3147
11-30-07, 08:09 AM
ok in quick terms
sealed box: quick punchy bass really good for rock
ported box: loud box good for all music usually 3-4 db louder
bandpass: you ant got the room but its a combanation of the 2 and not that loud. its a half sealed half ported which works the same as a sealed box but with plexy glass.
i just grabed the pic of your seats give me till after school.
give you till after school for what?
Perry3147
12-01-07, 06:03 PM
im working on the pic you posted just a rough sketch
Perry3147
12-02-07, 11:06 AM
like i said its rough. but an idea. the inside of the console would be empty so you could put almost anything you want to hide or what ever in it
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n196/jperry3147/somewhat003fj22.jpg
yea i was thinking somthing like that now whats the port or and is it just a hole would i use MDF? and would i close off the bottom
Mikz86TA
12-02-07, 02:22 PM
You can do a port for a box 2 ways. Round or Slot.
Round you can either use a pre-made paper tube that can be bought, or use PVC pipe from Lowes/etc. JL Audio makes a cool product called a Flex-Port. Its tubing that is designed to expand in diameter, can be cut to length and/or can be curved. Curving is good if the depth of the port needs to be longer than the space provided.
Slot porting is using the box material (MDF) to make a rectangular opening (port).
There are a couple things you need to know B4 porting.
First off, its more than just a hole or a tube. The diameter and length of a port is a science. It determines the 'tuned' frequency the sub plays at. If its off (And the tuned frequency varies from sub to sub. Both in size and type) , then you will have a horrible sounding woofer.
Second, if you have the same sub and want to try it in a slot ported box and then a round ported box, the port sizing is going to be different. A round port (say 3") will be lets say 16" long according to out figures. The same 'tuned' frequency in a slot port will be much shorter in length. Plus you have usually an rectangle opening (say 2.5 x 12). And the length will only be 5" into the enclosure.
Most people like the sound of a slot port over a round port. Some round ports will posess noise (port noise). This is from the pressure of the air escaping. Ususlly if that noise is poud enough, its an indication of too small of a diameter port. There are AeroPorts which help out in some cases.
Third, there is the internal box volume to contend with. If you have looked at a manual that comes with any sub, they have usually a recommended airspace (cubic feet) for the sub. They usually have 'ported' and 'sealed' listed and there is a internal box volume difference. Since a port in a ported box displaces area inside the box, the box for a portred sub will need to be bigger. The sub also displaces airspace inside the box. Very little tho. So say you have a 2.0 cubic feet box. Keep in mind measure the inside NOT the outside for airspace. Place the sub in the box which displaces .1 cubic feet and now you have a 1.9 cu/ft box. If you slot port it, then take the area of the port ( L x W x H) and deduct that too. Now maybe you have a 1.5 or less box airspace. If the sub was designed for a 2.0 ft/cu box, then you will essentially have poorer sound.
A typical sub reaction in a smaller than needed sealed box is popping and the sub pushing outward hard when it hits. Not a good thing, but fun to watch.
A typical sub reaction in a larger than needed box is the cone loosely flopping back and forth after the note hits. This causes audible reverb and makes it sound muddy.
The same as above in a ported box (too large/too small) will exhibit similar reactions but also port noise.
The first thing you need to do is find the sub you wish to use and its box-size requirements. Most manufacturers have this info online too if needed. If you dont have a sub yet, then determine your approx airspace where you intend to put it. If its irregular shapes, you may need to just get a close area number. Also remember to account for MDF thicknesses and calculate what the internal volume will be.
Once you figure that out, you can determine weather your given area will support a sub of a certain size and weather it can be in a ported enclosure or a sealed.
Hope this helps.
Most woofer manu
yea man thats a mind full haha but i get the jist of it thanks i'll make sure too port it properly i thought i could just put a pvc pipe i ther and be good too go but i was wrong
anyone gotta set up like mine???? if you want i can give you dimentions if you can make the box for some $bling$
dose anyone want too make me a sub box i'll pay
Perry3147
12-10-07, 01:52 PM
to do a fiberglass box the correct way you need the truck for the whole build. and all the equipment.
Mikz86TA
12-10-07, 03:29 PM
X2. If I had a 1st gen, time and youd pay acinine shipping cost, it wouldnt be a big deal. =)
lol i would do it but i have never fiber glassed nothing and i dot know what size box ect were too start
chevybrat
12-11-07, 02:45 AM
To know the size of box you need, you need to know the minimum and maximum mounting depth for your chosen sub or subs. I was at the minimum with my Kicker DVC CVR's and it was weak. They were in sealed boxes for a faster hitting beat for my Rock music. If you want deep boomy bass, go with ported as has been said. I recently upgraded to 1.4cu.ft sealed enclosures and they pound. Ported boxes do require more space, from what i've heard and learned.
Chrisvich
12-11-07, 11:11 AM
Good point Heather.....but you also need to know that you will be measuring the box in inches. So add up length X width X height and divide that by 1728 inches because that is how many inches are in a square foot. And if you have a triangle dimension then you use the equation of 1/2 BH or 1/2 the base times height and then divide that by 1728.
bespurcell
12-11-07, 05:23 PM
Geometry 101.
bass box pro...is your friend...:)
Chrisvich
12-11-07, 08:27 PM
Trust me I have seen worse
bespurcell
12-11-07, 08:45 PM
I had Algebra I in 8th grade, Alg II in 9th, geometry in 10th, Trig & Math Analysis in 11th, and I blew off my senior year. About the only thing I use regularly is the pythagorean theorem. I've seen worse too.
12 subs!!!!!!!!!!! wow BUT i got the whole bump in the middlw of my cab
Chrisvich
12-11-07, 10:17 PM
Just go buy a sheet of MDF wood and experiment. You will never learn anything unless you try and do it for yourself. Go over the bump BTW
my new ideahttp://img159.imageshack.us/img159/2670/subboxdg8.jpg
oops i ment be not we in the picture
the kid 05
01-22-08, 08:29 PM
if you follow through with your newest design i'd put the ports on the side with the seats so you feel the air escape. I'm in my Excell class right now so i can't really do much but when ig et home i'll draw some things up
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