Need help changing CV Shaft

[pappyl]

1986 Jimmy 4wd, w/3.4
First off, I'm not a front suspension expert. Any help appreciated.
Already bought the CV shaft. Front right boot is ripped, and wheel drags badly - brakes ok.
1) Have the 35mm centre nut off. (ie: discovered trick to that was using a steel rim so you can get at it, 4x4 rims don't work, leaving vehicle on its wheels for max. torque... Shaft is broke loose on spline. Have the shock off as well, and the CV shaft bolts out.
2) Do not have the tie rod off yet. I have a fork set, but it looks like I need one of those special clamps to push out the bolt, as the fork will rip the rubber boot.
3) Do not have the shaft plate (where it connects to the axle) broke loose. They are rusted.frozen together. Can't get a srewdriver driven in to seperate.
Does anyone know a trick to get these plates seperated?
I'm assuming that I will get enough play when I disconnect the tie-rod and I will not have to disconnect the upper ball joint.
Thanks for any help.

[bespurcell]

bump.

[Sparky2263]

The upper ball joint has to be separated in order to get the axle out. Support the lower control arm with a jack or stand and there won't be any pressure on the upper arm.

You'll most likely need to press the axle out of the hub/bearing assembly with a hub press.

[1993blazerlt]

take off the brake rotor and caliper, then take out the three bolts holding the hub to the kunckle, use a puller to pull the hub off the CV shaft, then you just need to unbolt it from the flange on the front Diff

[Laxmonster54]

take off the brake rotor and caliper, then take out the three bolts holding the hub to the kunckle, use a puller to pull the hub off the CV shaft, then you just need to unbolt it from the flange on the front Diff

he's right, I actually just learned how to do this in my Automotive tech class at school.

[Tink]

You've probably finished the ob by now, but this is the way I've replaced them... (after blowing several thanks to Superlift) - jack up truck, remove tire and shock. You may need to disconnect the tie-rod to knuckle. So, if you need to replace them anyhow, it is a good time. Just remembered - I usually disconnect the upper A-arm balljoint - although some people do not. Back-off the 36mm nut on the CV axle but leave it on... this is so that when you pull out your BFH to knock the CV axle out of the wheel hub, you don't destroy the threads of the CV axle. Spray penetrate around the cv axle splines, so that it can come out easier. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the CV shaft to the axle housing itself. Turn the wheel to front of the truck as hard as it will go (if you are working on the right side, turn the wheel as if you are turning the truck left). This is where you may need to disconnect the tie-rod to knuckle if you don't have enough room. Pry on the top of CV shaft that is against the axle housing, toward the rear of the vehicle, until you have it out as far as it will go. Now you can pound on the end of the CV axle with your BFH until it comes out. Then take the 36mm nut off of the CV shaft so that you can slide the CV shaft the rest of the way out. Pull the CV axle out, and reinstall the new one. Installation is simply the reverse.

[pappyl]

Thanks guys,
Off I go.Paid $35 for a tied rod puller. Should make the job easier.

Never pulled a balled joint. Will ses if I have room first, if not, I'll get into that too.

[plant.one]

ball joints and tie-rod ends are relatively cheap. Should be under $30 each for that vehicle. Just go ahead and pickle fork them off and replace em while your half shaft is out. Other than that... see as listed above for advice.

Just my $0.02 USD :P

[pappyl]

She's done.

I pulled both upper and lower ball joints to get it the damn thing out, but I got her out.
All back together and greased up now. It was a real ***** of a job, not for the timid.

Thanks for all the help.