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Mikz86TA
12-20-07, 07:36 PM
So, I got into refurbishing these beat-a$$ Street Scene mirrors. I got them pretty used up as far as cosmetics go. But for the price paid, I cant complain and I was going to repaint them anyways. Im not sure how these come when you buy them new, but I assume its black plastic or white primer.
Being their previous painting and prep was unknown, I started to sand them down. I found that the base plastic is black. There was a coating of a white primer. Followed by a black base cote paint and topped off with a clear cote.
I started by sanding down the paint that was on it using 600 grit. This is how I determined what was used. Using a pan with water, I soaked the sandpaper for 10 min. and then started wetsanding. I dip the paper and sand, and repeat every few strokes. Keeping the surface wet at all times. By seeing the pan water change color, I was able to determine from experience what I was sanding. The lightly grayish look of the water at first told me clear-cote. Then of course was the black paint-cote.
A few areas ,as you can tell by the following pic, needed more attention to smooth. I used a 320 grit paper until the edges of the chips and gouge was no longer visible. I re-sanded with the 600 grit to even it out. Dull but Smooth is what were looking to accomplish.
I washed them down with mild soap and water. Then let them dry overnight after wiping the excess water off.
Used a TackRag which can be bought at most auto-parts stores near the paints section.
Before on Left and After on Right
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors7.jpg
I had a gouge in one that had to be filled. I used some Bondo Professional Glazing and Spot Putty #801. I got it from a local auto-parts chain. Its a White Creme thats the consistency of toothpaste. There is a Hardener you mix that comes with it. Hardener is red. Mix the 2 as instructed until its a uniform Orange color. Working time is 5 minutes. I used a popsicle stick to mix and a spreader to apply. Hardened in about 30 min. I sanded it down with 320 grit initially followed by 600 grit to finish it smooth.
Both sanded down :
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors8.jpg

Mikz86TA
12-20-07, 07:42 PM
Next came the re-painting once I was happy with the surface. If I had started with bare plastic like a new part, I would lightly sand with 600 or finer and use an Adhesion Promoter. But since this was a previously painted item, I skipped the AP and went straight for painting. Always start by wiping off the part with a paper towel and followed by a Tack Rag. This will eliminate dust particles getting under the paint. Work where dust is little. I use old wire coat hangars to hold the parts. Place them in a area to securely hold them, yet not interfere with the painting. I can hold them and spin them as I paint by the bent hangars and then hang them on the edge of the garage door.

I started off with Dupli-Color red Primer. Goes on nicely, and dries fairly quickly. Very light 1st cote which is very transparent. On the 2nd cote, the part should be a uniformed red color. I wait 5-10 min between primer cotes. If you wait overnight, then a light sanding is recomended. I finished it off with a 3rd cote after the 5-10 min wait.
Red Primed
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors10.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors9.jpg

Mikz86TA
12-20-07, 07:51 PM
Oh, dont forget to do inside the mirror about 1 inch or more. Youll be pissed when youre done and after you adjust the mirror lens you can see under colors in there =)

Next came the Primer Sealer. Primer Sealer creates a better bond of Paint-Cote to the Primer-Cote. It also makes the Paint-Cote go on smoother. Same tequnique applies to the PSealer as to the Primer-Cote. But B4 you do the sealer, re-inspect the surface for imperfections. Light colors like the red primer make it easier to spot a blem. Dont worry about seeing a color differentiation in the red primer from the filler or spot areas that were sanded more. The Primer Sealer will hide those. I found a slight scuff that needed to be re-sanded on one of the edges.
Sanded it, wiped it, tack rag to get particles off and re primered that spot.
Then I applied the Primer Sealer in the same tecnique as the Primer cote. I wait longer for drying with this tho. Its a thicker layering each cote and needs more time to dry to touch. Did 3 cotes of this as well.
Primer Sealer
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors12.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors11.jpg

Mikz86TA
12-20-07, 08:08 PM
Next will come the color cote. But I am at a stopping point. Im going to let them cure naturally overnight and maybe under a heat lamp tomorrow. I have been contemplating learning how to paint with a HVLP gun. I may buy one tomorrow. Most people just give me cash for Christmas to buy whatever I need. I usually get tools and clothes =) I got some of that money early and have been wanting a HVLP gun for a while. I got a big enough compressor already. I can either use the shaker cans or use a gun. Being a large surface area part, I think the gun will work best.
One of the CarQuest stores here is a paint supplier. They carry DeVilbiss and SATA guns, DuPont paints/reducers/etc , 3M sanding and buffing stuff and SEM paints. Thats where I get that bad-a$$ SEM Trim Black I always rave about.
The guy that does the paint stuff is very knowlegable and aside from what Ive been studying up on, Im sure he can assist me further.
I cant afford the SATA or DeVilbiss guns tho. Lowes has a nice looking Kobalt HVLP gun for under $100, HDepot has Husky which I think is made by CHausfeild and it just feels very cheapo, Harbor freight has some el-cheapos but they are priced cheap and actually feel well made. Im going to HFreight and Sears tomorrow and see what I can come up with. I may go with the Kobalt one. Its blue =) hehehe
I need a regulator for the end to adjust press at the gun, I need a filter to catch moisture in the air, I need a more flexible hose than the HD one I use for general purposes and I need a e-z swivel for the end.
Anyone think of anything else??
Im going to have CarQuest guy mix me up a batch of OEM IndigoBlue Met. base and some Clear.
THX in advance for any input, help or supportive comments =)

bespurcell
12-20-07, 08:30 PM
Lookin' good. Nice write up.

Mikz86TA
12-20-07, 10:26 PM
THX. Im stoked about getting them. I may sell them later on, but for now Im going to use them. I want to finish them off right, even if I sell them. Im sure someone else would appreciate the time and effort to make them nice. But Im going to use them for the time being.
Going to the salvage yard to find some 91 Cavys for the lens. Apparently like Eric pointed out on the other thread, they are the same. Id still like to get the orig Street Scene lenses. But the stock GM ones might be thicker glass and a good used set will probably be just a few bucks. Whereas the orig SScene replacements from Summit are just under $20

Blazer69
12-21-07, 10:44 AM
looks nice......cardboard works so many wonders in life....lol

Mikz86TA
12-21-07, 05:42 PM
Hehehe. Yeah, I get old TV boxes and cut them up for laying on during under-cat/truck work. As you can see they also come in handy when painting. The mirror bases have the studs off the back, so you can do most of the painting with them laying as seen here. Still had to pick them up by the center hole to get the edges good.
So I bought a pair of HVLP guns at HarborFreight today. About $50 for the kit which had 2 different guns. Ive seen people talk about them. They are OK for starter guns. Thats good enough 4 me. Ill get a SATA one day. I had the local paint shop supplier do a match on my truck and mix me up some DuPont Indigo Blue. About a $90 bill. That included The Chromabase color (Indigo Blue) $23 for a 1/2pt., the activator $20 for a bottle, Nason (DuPont) Clear $21, the Clear activator $9, and I needed some more SEM Trim Black and masking tape for other jobs. Plus the guy whos been doing this for many years gave me a short help session and positive outlook.
I hope it goes well. Im very picky and do take my time, so Im sure its all good. Try to get on it in the next few days.
Wish me luck. Ill get pics ASAP =)

Mikz86TA
12-22-07, 06:49 PM
No luck on painting them today. Very overcast, moisture in the air and cold wet temp. I cant wait but will just have to.
Dang!

Mikz86TA
12-26-07, 03:36 PM
Arrgghhh!!! Im sooooooo bored. I want to paint these mirrors and its all I can think about. But the weather here isnt cooperating. I got some mid-temp activator and I do have a heat fan, but I dont want the fan blowing dust around. Nor do I want to attept my 1st painting in not the best conditions. So I wait for now.
On the Cavy lenses, they are not as wide. They would work but there would be a bit of a gap on the edges or if you offset it a big gap on one edge. So, Ill wait to order the SS originals with my other part I need to get from Summit.

Blazer69
12-26-07, 07:19 PM
yeah i used old moving boxes when i painted my rims in my basement....worked great

Mikz86TA
12-27-07, 07:44 PM
So today I decided to get my paint on!
It was good weather and sunny when I started. But that was about the extent of the good news. Being a HVLP gun rookie, I didnt have it adjusted right at first. I tested the spray on a board to get the fan and coverage started, but at some point decided to go ahead and start shooting a mirror head. Didnt go on well at all. So I farted around setting it more and decided to go ahead and get the rest of the parts started.
One mirror head is fully painted but I want to shoot another cote on it of the base color. It doesnt look metallicy enough like the stock paint does. But it may just be me. IDK
The other mirror head ,which was the one that the paint didnt go on well, was starting to look better as I shot it more. This paint goes on looking splotchy to me but the activator I guess smooths it out and it lays just fine after a minute. But while I was spinning it on the hangar to observe the drying, I left a paw print on it. AARRGGGHHH!!! So back to square one on it. Got to wetsand and prep it again.
The mirror bases were going OK too. But out of no where something fell over onto one and f-ed up a couple spots. So, its resand and reprep it too.
At this point Im pissed. I wasnt planning to finish today but wanted to get 2-3 base cotes established on all the parts and evaluate them after they cure. Im going to get more paint tomorrow. The little I had left from the 1/2 pint I am going to use as a 'test n tune' experiment with the gun and a tester part to apply it to.
Overall the one mirror head looks good. Im OK with this being its my 1st try with no previous experience. Except shaker can painting...which is wayyy different IMO. Im looking at some videos and reading more as I go about proper techniques. I also realized that a gun holder is essential and will be getting one of those tomorrow as well.
Ill try to get a pic up of the one good shot mirror later.

bespurcell
12-27-07, 08:27 PM
I learn from your mistakes.:D

TreasonAgainstCaesar
12-27-07, 09:03 PM
very interesting. can't wait to see them finished.

Mikz86TA
12-28-07, 01:00 AM
Thanks Brandon. Glad to see I can be the test dummy =)
Yeah, I cant wait to see them done too.
I watched some more videos and read more info. I have a good technique down and the one I got completed had the paint laid on great. I just think maybe I didnt mix up the metallics enough. No big deal, Ill fix it.

Mikz86TA
12-28-07, 01:39 AM
Here is the product I am using =)
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrorsPaint2.jpg

DMP
12-28-07, 01:55 AM
Trial & Error is how we learn. Just dont give up or get frustrated. Me on the other hand.....I get frustrated. lol Im not a good painter...id rather just pay someone to do it. Cant wait to see when theyre done.

87wildside
12-28-07, 08:49 AM
Sometimes the flake dosn't pop until the clear is on. Also with base/ clear you should do the clear after the base flashes. You don't want to sand the base, even fine scratches from 600 grit may show through. Talk to your pait guy/ girl or it should be on the mix sheet.

The splotches may be from moving to fast but with small parts it can be a PITA to go slow. Wish I could help with this.

How do you like the gun? does the fan go from round to straght with the adjustments?

Mikz86TA
12-28-07, 12:22 PM
Yeah Eric. I was suposed to do like a 5-10 window during the base cotes and then 30 min to do the 1st clear. Suposedly the 1st cote of clear will not be to shiny because it actually bonds into the base cote. The 2nd and 3rd clear cote is what gives the shine. I watched another instructional video and am going to talk with my painter freind again today. I was also told that if I let the base sit overnight, to wetsand it and after its dry and tack ragged, to spray another base cote and follow up with the clearing process. Im taking the mirror to see what he thinks about the metallics in it so far. I was thinking just like you in that the clear will make it pop out after its applied. I read somewhere how there is an electrical charge that makes the metallics or pearls align themselves after they are applied. But IDK if they are referring to the activator in the base that does that or the clear once its applied.
Im going to work on some technique with the small amount of paint I have left from the 1st mix. Im getting a 2nd 1/2 pt mixed today. So maybe I can figure out the technique better. The splotchiness was just on the 1st mirror which I f-ed up anyways. I think I got the gun adjusted better.
The gun has 3 adjustments. The Fan Direction can be adjusted at the front for horizontal or vertical sweeps. The Fan Pattern can be adjusted with a knob on the back. This is the oval to round adjustment. And the Air Pressure from a knob under the handle. I havent quite figured that one out.
I was told to have the Compressor at 80-100psi to the gun. Then have an adjustable regulator at the gun (which I bought seperately) and adjust that to 8-10psi for HVLP. But the DuPont can says 35psi or so. But doesnt specify HVLP or Std. The gun instructions say 30-35psi and 35 MAX.
Its a gravity feed, it has a 1.4mm nozzle and an additional 1.8mm nozzle. The smaller gun in the kit has a 1.0mm nozzle and its 32psi MAX.
Anyways, the air pressure I set at 15psi at the tanks regulator and the tank has 100+ psi in it at all times just about so I dont run low. So technically through the hose and to the gun is 15psi. The gague I bought which is attached directly to the gun says 15psi but drops during use to 0psi. In fact, it doesnt matter what I have that set to, it drops to 0 during the useage. I guess thats normal? I tried to use it to adjust the PSI at the gun and leave the tanks regulator up at 80psi, but the guns gague seems to read whatever the tanks regulator is. Im kinda confused on this one somehow =( The regulator I bought has an adjustment knob but to mee it seems useless. The gun has its adjustment knob but no real way to tell what its doing other than spray-and-see.
So far I like the gun OK. The trigger I noticed starts the air and then the paint flow is delayed. In fact if you just pull t back slightly, then you get nothing but air. IDK if thats normal. I did dissasemble it and clean it good after I was done. Well see how this goes =)

bespurcell
12-28-07, 11:25 PM
You'll be an expert before you know it. MIKZ PAINT & BODY. lol

87wildside
12-28-07, 11:38 PM
I tried to give you some ideas but I,m drunk and....blah blah blah...heheh

Mikz86TA
12-29-07, 02:48 AM
Hehehe. Whatcha drinkin on?
I had a few tall Killians at the local pub 2nite. Im kinda tipsy. 2 sheets....not quite 3 yet.

Bone Crusher
12-29-07, 10:11 AM
Killians is the only beer that I know that will sneek up on yah

Mikz86TA
12-29-07, 12:07 PM
Sure will....but I like Killians. Its soo good on the lips =)

Mikz86TA
01-08-08, 02:05 AM
Ok ladies and gents. I was bored today, had no truck (getting hood and roof painted...see other thread), decent weather and did I mention bored? So I decided to get my paint on =)
I started off by practiceing my tecnique and setting the gun.
I mixed the paint 1:1 with the activator/reducer and started out good. I laid 2-3 good even cotes of base down and was happy with the results.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors13.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors14.jpg

chevybrat
01-08-08, 02:09 AM
looks great! bet you're excited to see your truck all fixed up as well.

Mikz86TA
01-08-08, 02:16 AM
After the last base cote came a 30 minute wait. I cleaned the gun of the IndigoBlue during this time and blew it dry.
Then I mixed the clear per directions with the activator to a 4:1 ratio.
I proceeded to reset the gun since I dis-assembled it during cleaning.
I then laid down the 1st cote of clear and thats when something looked wrong. It laid as instructed with a WET cote but there looked to be bubbles or dirt in it. I blew off the parts and tack-ragged them, so I know there was no dirt on the surface. I was suposed to add a second cote after the 1st cote flashed for about 10 minutes. But I stopped for now. I am working on fiding out what to do next.
I was sortof told to add the second cote and it would hide the 'nibs'. But Im unsure if thats the exact solution. I thought about a 1500-2000 grit sanding to smooth and add 2-3 more cotes...and hopefully the will apply right.
But thats my stopping point right now.
I tried to get a shot of the problem, but it didnt take well. Anyways, here it is.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrorsPaintIssue1.jpg
Well see tho. Ill try to do some more soon...maybe tomorrow.
Peace out 4 now

87wildside
01-08-08, 04:29 AM
Go with the 1500 but keep in mind if you break through the clear into the color you will have to re shoot the base coat. Looks like dirt but it's hard to tell from 1,500 miles away. A second coat would have been better for you if it is dirt. Dirt has a way of just showing up in clear so it's nothing to worry about. And we all know that you will buff and polish them...hehe.

Edit; listen to Paint toad but the hell with those other guys. He's been doing paint forever.

Y NI Rider
01-08-08, 04:48 AM
FYI I like the difrrent colored letters lol.
When your done with your mirrors you can spray my truck. Just no bubbles lol....I trust your skillz.

Mikz86TA
01-08-08, 04:21 PM
'I trust your skillz.' - you like to live on the edge..huh? =)

Mikz86TA
01-08-08, 04:22 PM
'Edit; listen to Paint toad but the hell with those other guys. He's been doing paint forever.' - Thats where Ive been getting the most help =)

bespurcell
01-08-08, 06:36 PM
Looking good. I hope you get it figured out. I really like this thread.

Mikz86TA
01-08-08, 07:50 PM
THX. Maybe I will have time tomorrow to get more done.

87wildside
01-08-08, 09:06 PM
'Edit; listen to Paint toad but the hell with those other guys. He's been doing paint forever.' - Thats where Ive been getting the most help =)I know Mike, watching you thread there too. If anything I say is different then what he says listen to him! He knows his **** but those other guys, not so much. I know what works for me, but I also can see the results upclose. I have painted more then a few vehicals but by no meens am I an exbert....blaa blaaa blaa you get my point. I've been watching there and he knows more so listen to him, but the hell with those other guys. Yes I'm drunk. hahaha

Mikz86TA
01-08-08, 10:27 PM
What you drinking on? hehehe
Im reading painting stuff right now. Over ther Ive gotten alot of responses from Toad and others. He hasnt posted anything in a day or so. I hope he comes back, Im getting some mixed input from others. Its nice to get input and leads, but I want more input than I already gotten so far.
Looking at them today, the mirror bases which I did 1st, have the nibs more than the mirror heads. I definately needed a few moe cotes too. The heads are kinda grainy in some areas from too much air and not enough fluid I think. I did adjust the gun after spraying the bases B4 I hit the heads.

87wildside
01-08-08, 10:33 PM
Just beer, lots O' beer. Like I said to hell with thise other guys. Some know there **** but with all the back and forth it gets clouded. Toad is the man!

Quick tip thogh. If the bumps are pointy it's dirt, round it's bad.(air or solvent)

DMP
01-12-08, 01:00 AM
Mikz, I finally "coughed" up the extra money and ordered some Street Scene mirrors. :cool: Just got the manual....the power are pricey.

Cameo_S10
01-12-08, 01:19 AM
I am going to take my mirrors off tomorrow and try to redo them myself. If they turn out good Ill post a pick, if they dont you wont see them. LOL

Mikz86TA
01-12-08, 02:33 AM
Ive painted alot of stuff B4. This is my 1st time doing spraygun tho.


I didnt have the the right elements to paint 2day, so I wet sanded them with 600 then 800 then 1000 grit. I will spray them with the clear soon and post pics =)

Mikz86TA
01-12-08, 03:46 PM
DMP, you got them yet?
RU going to paint them or leave em black?

Update on mine : I got the clear sanded down from where it didnt lay right. I used 600 grit in spots, 800 grit in spots and 1000 grit in other areas. I didnt lay it ov very evenly as you can tell =) hehehe But I will next time. Im a newbie at coordinating the spraygun. I may reshoot the base tho. Just to do another even cote. IDK yet. Im also considering getting the DuPont Chroma Clear and cutting my losses with the cheap DuPont Nason. Im reading more opinions about it that are not too positive. Seems the way it laid on with me isnt totally my fault. Others with more experience have issues as well. If someone wants it, Ill sell it and the activator cheap =). I may just use it to practice. Im thinking of getting some of that DupliColor Paintshop stuff. Suposedly it lays easy and its cheaper than the custom mixed stuff. Plus they have it at Advance near me. I can use it to practice without worrying about cost.
Ill get pics up later of the sanding. I probably got to wait until Mon to get the DuPont Chromaclear.

DMP
01-12-08, 06:42 PM
DMP, you got them yet?
RU going to paint them or leave em black?

Nah....I just ordered them last night. Im gonna keep them black, but eventually they will be painted white. Im doing body work last on my truck...probably gonna get the whole truck repainted.

Mikz86TA
01-12-08, 06:52 PM
True. You should get the Envoy bumper. I personally think its smooth. I could care less about the Envoy headlamps tho. Looks like footballs =)
Those clears are gonna look nice on your truck and match youre cleared headlamps. I saw another NEW set of totally clears on the S10Forum for sale. I think they dont have the reflector. Not legal, but nice =)

DMP
01-13-08, 12:49 AM
Yeah im definately gonna get the Envoy bumper with foglights and the bumper grill for it. I still need new headlights. I guess the last owner did a bad job trying to "clear" them and destroyed the headlight trim. :rolleyes: Oh well....the mods will keep coming...

Mikz86TA
01-17-08, 02:59 PM
I have a mild update on my project.
I got a visit from the big brown UPS truck this morning. I ordered the StreetScene replacement lenses from Summit on Tuesday night. 1.5 days here isnt bad =) They have a store/warehouse in Georgia now, which makes things get here faster than it used to. For about $20 I got the authentic SS lenses.
Ive had the flu since Monday. And it has been cold, rainy, damp and miserable here in Tallahassee. So I havent been out doing anything. Sux, because I had alot to accomplish this week and getting these mirrors painted and finished was one of them.
Im shooting for mid-next week to get them done....and who knows, maybe ON!
Hehehe

bespurcell
01-17-08, 07:12 PM
Get well soon and "GIT R' DUN".

Mikz86TA
02-15-08, 07:20 PM
Whoo Hoo Progress!!

Well, today I didnt have **** to do and the weather was cooperating. So I went out, scuffed the mirrors a bit, shot 2 more cotes of Base, waited about 20 minutes and shot 3 healty cotes of Clear.
They turned out good this time except for some orangepeel. But thats expected and you got to buff/compound them anyways. Bodyshops have to as well.
They are still curing and the clear is a bit soft still. I fogure 2-3 days to fully cure as per DuPonts directions. Ill get my 3M Finesse it out which will buff out the surface and the orangepeel look. Plus some dirt nibs that get in there. Not many of those tho. Considering they are done outside, I had good luck with just tack ragging them B4 spraying and there not being any wind to blow dirt around.
Heres the finishe pics B4 Buffing:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors15.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors16.jpg

Mikz86TA
02-15-08, 07:23 PM
The metallics really POP OUT!! Or the pearessence I would say. Tho GM says IndigoBlue Met. , the mix actually has pearlessence instead of metallic. I guess GM was being more general in the discription.
Heres a pic of the closeup...orangepeel =) hehehe And also a pic of the new StreetScene lenses.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors17.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors18newlenses.jpg

87wildside
02-15-08, 07:50 PM
Good job Mike.

Hmmm, wonder how my truck would look that color?

bespurcell
02-15-08, 08:46 PM
Looks good.

DMP
02-15-08, 10:23 PM
They turned out good this time except for some orangepeel. But thats expected and you got to buff/compound them anyways. Bodyshops have to as well.
They are still curing and the clear is a bit soft still. I fogure 2-3 days to fully cure as per DuPonts directions. Ill get my 3M Finesse it out which will buff out the surface and the orangepeel look.

Looks good.

Im not a painter, but from what I hear youre suppose to wetsand to get rid of the "orange peel" look. I think 2000 grit and if thats not enough, then 1500.

neo71665
02-16-08, 12:17 AM
Looking good, wish I could find some used ones (cheap) for my first gen.

Mikz86TA
02-16-08, 02:39 AM
Yeah. Im gonna need to wetsand and buff =) Expected.
IDK Eric, I think Indigo Blue would look goon on a 1st Geb. But Im partial anyways =)
THX for the complements/. Im stoked about geting them done and on

Bone Crusher
02-16-08, 09:22 AM
looks damn good for the ol rookie painter......I need to get out there and try and paint some things too.

Mikz86TA
02-16-08, 01:39 PM
Not too hard. Once you get accustom to setting the paint gun. Theres 3 settings and its a balancing act to get them right. Id recomend getting some cheap paint like that Laquer Dupli-Color Paintshop stuff they sell at Advance and practiceing on an old hood. Start with a flat surface to practice on and get the settings, technique and familiarity of the painting with a gun. Then get something with curves to practice on. Honestly the base part of the mirrors was the more difficult peice. Trying to lay the paint on the flat part then on the bulge and add the curves in the mix wasnt very easy. Your suposed to keep the gun parallel to the surface. But its hard on those peices to do that since when your focusing on one part like the flat base, you get angled sprays on the bulge part.
All in all the clear was the most difficult to lay good.
The base always laid very evenly and nice. Funny thing is, the base cote looks a bit blotchy even after overlapping the cotes. But the activator I guess makes it spread after it sits and the blotchyness dissapears and it ends up very smooth. Just kinda weird how the paint goes on and reacts. Especially for a painting rookie like myself =)

Mikz86TA
02-20-08, 12:38 AM
OK Update time.

We have sucess...somewhat:D
I got motivated today. I started out by wetsanding those window switch panels I painted along with the mirrors. After I smoothed them, I used some 3M compound for 1500 and finer sanding. I had used 2000 grit. I then used the next step with 3M fiishing type compound for dark colors and then Hand Glaze and Carnauba wax. The 1st one looked good but a bit duller than the orig clear cote. No biggie, I could do some more buffing compound runs. But upon further inspection, I noticed these little white specs. They werent there B4 and seemed 2B in the paint. I decided to look closely after just the wetsanding on the 2nd one. They were there. So they wernt caused by the complound, but rather they were just there after sanding. I still am baffled.
I decided to attempt the bases of the mirrors since they really needed the process. The painting or rather the clear coteing of the compound curves was hard to apply and they got more dirt nibs and orangepeel than the mirror heads. But, the same white specks appeared there as well. After about 30min of trying to figure something out...well I did. Painted those ****ers Black with the SEM TrimBlack paint I use. The SEM T/B has UV blockers and seemingly never fades. So they will look good for a long time. It looks pretty good actually with the base black. I kinda like them that way. Matches the rest of the window trim and wiper cowl well. I still may go back and make another paint and clear attempt. But frustration and impatience on getting them in use has driven me insane:hypnotize .
The mirror heads I just did the compound process. There was almost no dirt nibs and minor orangepeel. They turned out well. I could be ultra-picky.....but in light of my wetsanding 'development' I think Ill opt to just being regular-picky.

Mirror with motor installed :
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors19motormounted.jpg

I ran out of daylight, so heres the best I can get you until tomorrow:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors23.jpg

Another decent shot...for now :
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors24.jpg

Mikz86TA
02-20-08, 12:50 AM
And I did a little mod. B4 I had made LED turn signals, in Blue of course, to the OEM elephant ears. I wanted to do something with these but didnt have the extencive time to fab anything up.
So, I took a sticky dot and applied it to the back of the lens where the StreetScene logo is. The mirrors are actually very transparent. {The reflectant is thin, so if you hold a light behind the mirror and look into the friont of the mirror lens, you can see the light through it.} Which is why I did my next step.
I took Black paint and painted the entire back of the mirror glass.
Then taking the sticky dot off after it dried, left the SS logo open to transparency.
I took a single Blue LED, soldered on a resistor and some wire leads. Found a small cuplike plastic part in my shop. Drilled a hole for the 3mm LED to fit into and shined it into the cuplike thingy. Used 5min. Epoxy to seal the LED to the cuplike part.
I then used the 5min. Epoxy and sealed the cuplike part/LED Fixture to the back of the mirror lens over the StreetScene logo.

At 1st I did it on the signal wires I already had run into the doors and was using it like a turnsignal. But one blue dot...tho bright as hell even in daylight...didnt look good.
So I tapped the LED onto the illumination wires on the door power switch panels.
Now the SS logos light up when the parking lamps and headlamps are on. I wanted something subtle yet different. I like it =) hehehe

Hers a pic of that :

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors25sslogolitday.jpg

And a closeup shot too :
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Mods%20and%20Work/S10-SSMirrors26sslogolitnight.jpg

Mikz86TA
02-20-08, 10:34 AM
If you dont have power or dont care about power, there is a company that sells the knock-offs but they are pretty decent on e-bay for like $49 or so. A guy on the S10F got a set and thinks they are great. They have both 1st and 2nd gen fitments. I think they are under SS Mirrors in the search. AIM sells some that are junk Ive heard. Ive also seen the StreetScenes on e-bay at times used for a decent price. Ill always try to post up stuff I find like that in the E-bay section of the classifieds.
Looking good, wish I could find some used ones (cheap) for my first gen.

Bone Crusher
02-20-08, 11:08 AM
Paint looks good man....nice touch on the SS light

87wildside
02-20-08, 11:46 AM
I was happy with my AIM mirrors. I even thought the adapter bracket looked cleaner.

Mikz86TA
02-20-08, 03:46 PM
Oh really? I had just heard other owners complain about the AIM stuff. I trust your judgement better than them tho.

87wildside
02-20-08, 04:07 PM
For the most part (Sh)AIM does suck but they don't make the mirrors, at least I don't think they do.

BTW, they came out great!! The logo is badass. What clear did you end up using?

DMP
02-20-08, 07:47 PM
The mirrors look good. :cool:

plant.one
02-20-08, 08:31 PM
wow.. that SS blinker logo in the mirror is slicker than snot.. i love it... how the hell did you pull that off? hehehe

bespurcell
02-20-08, 10:01 PM
X2. I love the ss led logo.

Mikz86TA
02-21-08, 12:19 AM
The LED isnt a flasher. Its just on with the parks.
I pulled it off cause Im crafty and electronics is my forte =)
Im glad to hear 1st hand the AIMs are OK.

Mikz86TA
08-31-08, 12:58 PM
Update : Some may remember me saying on another thread about me getting pulled over for the LED in the mirror. It was a $75 ticket because it was blue and thats an emergency color. I admit that the SuperBrightBlue LED was very bright at night LOL. Sux still. I still got it in there but disconected it. =(

spideyjected
08-31-08, 01:04 PM
WOW, it's the little detail things that really make a truck rock. Good work Mike!

Mikz86TA
08-31-08, 06:26 PM
THX.

Im still bent aout the ticket tho. But that was a few months ago. Funny tho, I had 3 LEDs in blue drilled into my stock mirror bottom edge which were wired to my turn signals. 3 years and Ive had cops behind me when they were flashing and never once did I get pulled for it. Also I got the blue neon backlighting on the front SS valence cutout. Never had anyone say sh!t about that either.
Oh well

87wildside
08-31-08, 06:28 PM
Update : Some may remember me saying on another thread about me getting pulled over for the LED in the mirror. It was a $75 ticket because it was blue and thats an emergency color. I admit that the SuperBrightBlue LED was very bright at night LOL. Sux still. I still got it in there but disconected it. =(That blows. Could you get a lower output LED? I love the details like that on your truck.