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buffalo
12-22-07, 08:18 PM
recently purchased a 95 blazer ( loving it ) but the pioneer stereo is only putting out sound to the right side . I checked the back of the stereo ( pain in the ass ) and all is well . tomarrow im going to try the door pannels and hope its the prob. if not ??????:confused:
any place else i might look ?

lucy_blue_93
12-22-07, 08:30 PM
did you check the ballance yet?

buffalo
12-22-07, 09:04 PM
err ballance ???

lucy_blue_93
12-22-07, 09:07 PM
lol...thought so...hit the audio or eq button, scan through that until you see bal. it should say r 12 or something like that. hit the seek back button until it says 0. not r anything, just 0. that should fix it. you can also change your fade, front and back difference the same way to even it out. you can change your bass output and treble also to find the right sound to your liking.

buffalo
12-22-07, 09:10 PM
ah yes actually and its right in the middle

lucy_blue_93
12-22-07, 09:29 PM
what do you mean its right in the middle?

Mikz86TA
12-23-07, 02:57 AM
What model Pioneer is it?

buffalo
12-23-07, 02:34 PM
deh-p390mp

buffalo
12-23-07, 02:36 PM
in the middle - you know at zero --------0--------
its not the ballance

Hammer Head
12-23-07, 02:41 PM
Try flipping the wires to the left speaker (if it works you had a bad connection). If that doesn't work test the right speaker out on the left side (if it works you have a bad speaker).

buffalo
12-23-07, 02:56 PM
thats what i planed on for today - but its 12 degrees out today so maybee later

Hammer Head
12-23-07, 03:25 PM
Yea, it is pretty frickin cold out today.. 40s yesterday & then in the 10s today?

Mikz86TA
12-23-07, 04:45 PM
You got a digital multimeter?
If so you can use that to test.
Pull the deck and unplug it (this will reset it too). Take each speaker output and connect a probe to each one. Doesnt matter pos or neg. Turn your meter dial to the continuity check. This is where it beeps when the probes are touching each other. But probing each output at the same time (like the left front pos and neg) the beep will confirm the speaker is connected and has a god voice-coil. Do all 4.
Then do the same thing with a probe on the pos and one on the neg. Turn the meter dial to impedence (ohms). Thats the horseshoe icon typically or it says 'ohms' dependent on your meter. A 4-ohm speaker which they should be, will read from 3.5 to 5 ohms. Sometimes there is variances in both the coil and wiring as far as the resistance value. If it comes up very low (.000254, etc) or very high (15.2K, etc) than the coil is bad. The first test wouldve determined it being disconnected or totally open coil.
If all those test are OK, then its time to test the decks output. Plug the deck back in and veryfy the problem still exist. Do the same probing method as the prior test. Select AC voltage (not DC). Audio output is always AC current. Turn the radio on and watch the voltage AC go up and down. It will start low and gain strength as you turn up the volume. Test the known good outputs that are playing to get a feel for what you are looking for. If there is no output from the channels in question, or its very low, then you have a bad internal amp on the deck.
Internal deck amps are usually seperated Front and Rear. Some brands are Left and Right. Pioneer if I remember right is Front-Rear. But whoever installed the deck might have got the wire connections wrong. If that was the case, then you stereo imaging is horrible even if they all worked.
LF SPK = White + White-Black -
RF SPK = Gray + Gray-Black -
LR SPK = Green + Green-Black -
RR SPK = Purple + Purple-Black -
Pretty standard aftermarket colors. Most adapter harnesses are the same colors as well. If they chopped off the OEM harnedd and straight wired it, then the colors that GM uses is different.
I have a thread Sticky in the Audio section with the OEM GM wire colors broken down by year models and its pretty self-explanatory. Use it as a guide if needed.
Lemme know if you still need help on it.
Michel

buffalo
12-23-07, 07:06 PM
hey thank you - that might help ... after i thogh out a bit.

Mikz86TA
12-24-07, 01:09 AM
True! No worries, just lemme know if you need more help

lucy_blue_93
12-24-07, 10:45 AM
i never have liked pioneer head units. i have one in my truck and have had nothin but trouble with it. it wont eject cd's half the time and i have a few that got ruined my it.

Mikz86TA
12-24-07, 12:21 PM
All brands have a model or year that something goes wrong. I personally like Pioneer head units. There have been a few I want to forget they made tho. But dollor for dollor they are good.
But what I always tell people, just go with what you are familiar with and like. Not to say that to try something new isnt a good thing.
Worst Pioneer deck ever = DEH-P8400/8500. Silver one that has the double slide-down faceplate. Most returned and defective model to date. Gee, I wonder why they quit making it =)

buffalo
12-24-07, 01:52 PM
ITS FIXED...... the speakers were chewd - some moron puled the wires gight out of the speakers -so i replaced them ( froze my butt of ) but it works great now . Skynard should be playd LOUD...
thanks for the help gang in the future im considering a small sub in the back - maybe a cannon style sub . any thoughts???

Mikz86TA
12-24-07, 04:06 PM
Whoo-Hooo!!!:drummer:
Glad ya got it fixed. Personally I dont like tube subs. And they provide a limited range of bass.
Dependent on your music preference I could suggest some things.
If its small space you will give up for it and its rock-n-roll, a JL 8W0 (8") or a similar small cu-ft airspace 10" sub. Sealed is a good choice for the box style. The JL 8" will have more range in a small space than any other 8" sub. Sound more like a 10" essentially but is still limited to the range opf a 8" driver. Only other 8" sub that I would recommend is a Boston 8.4LF or 8.5LF ProSeries. Aslo designed for a small enclosure but require a bit more amp power than the JL8W0 does. And the Bostons of that series are older models. The .4 series was 1993-1997 and the .5 series was 1998-2001. But still found on e-bay in good shape. New they were $160-$220 a sub. The JL_W0 series was cheaper since it was tjeir low power line. But JL has always made a good driver. A smaller company made in Georgia called Bostwick used to have JL make their drivers too.:rockwoot:

buffalo
12-25-07, 09:49 AM
ya space is the biggest concern - and my music is mostly rock ( older stuff ) like zz top- but im native so i like a lot of traditional pow wow music to and thats where the sub would be cool ( nuthin like a huge booming drum ).

Mikz86TA
12-25-07, 02:56 PM
I know what you mean. I was a percussionist for many years. But you got a Blazer, so room is not too bad. You got enough to spart for a sealed box and 10" sub. Most will require 1.0 ft/cu and under.