Truck won't start... HELP

[TBolt98]

I parked my truck last week and it was running fine, went to start it the next day and nothing. The motor turns over and over and won't fire. Fuel pump comes on so I removed the hose from the exit of the fuel filter to make sure it wasn't clogged and it wasn't. Pulled a plug to check for spark on the manifold and that's fine too, but I'm in the proccess of changing the plugs just in case (pulled cap and rotor looks fine too). I may be missing some other steps I've taken but I'm getting pretty frustrated (I'm on vacation for 12 days... great way to spend it, huh). Anyhelp would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

[bespurcell]

Welcome to the planet. You've pretty much done exactly what I would have done. Can you tell us a little more about your truck? Year? Engine?

[TBolt98]

Oh sorry... it's a 2000 ZR2 pickup with the 4.3 vortec, no mods other than a K&N filter. I forgot to mention that I did try some starting fluid and that did nothing which leads me away from any type of fuel issue. I was also told it may be the crank sensor but I have good spark was told I wouldn't if it were that. I'm thinking it has to be ignition related.

[oofarfoo]

if the plugs are wet ie petrol soaked its ignition

[MikDee]

I'm having issues like that too, just curious, does it help if you turn your ignition on, & off, a few times before trying to crank it to start?

[TBolt98]

it does sometimes act like it wants to start, but just put-putts a couple times and that's it.

[MikDee]

I'm suspecting the fuel pressure regulator, because it appears to me that the fuel pressure is being depleted by the FPR leaking gas into the manifold when trying to start cold, then when it finally starts it is slightly flooded, & runs rough for a few seconds till it burns it off. No issues when it's warm, probably because the excess gas in the manifold evapoates easier when warm, and the engine is more receptive to starting when warm. Sometimes a few cycles of the key on, off, helps it get going, or if I remove the throttle body bonnet, hit it with ether, then put the bonnet back on it will start right up. (it won't start with the bonnet off, because you're bypassing the MAF sensor.

[Slacker1357]

sounds like somethings wet... I had a problem like that with my 88 Jimmy.
anytime it would rain, then engine took about 5-10 minutes to turn over and finally run... then it would be at a low idle.

you may have a gasket leak somewhere or it could be as simple as a low battery... not sure.

just giving my 2cents

[TBolt98]

it doesn't act any different at all with the ether, which leads me to think it's not a fuel issue. Battery is fully charged and even tried to jump it just in case.

[drgriffi2371]

It is yer rotor and/or cap. Check inside to see if it is worn down, mine was doing the same thing. It's all good now after replacing those two items.

[TBolt98]

I did inspect the cap and rotor for corrosion and/or burnt and it looked good, but I'll check it again tomorrow if I ever get my new plugs in (having trouble getting #2 thread started, threads seem fine... just can't seem to get the right damn angle).

[MikDee]

it doesn't act any different at all with the ether, which leads me to think it's not a fuel issue. Battery is fully charged and even tried to jump it just in case.

Are you shooting the ether in, then putting the throttle body bonnet back on? If you leave it off, the MAF sensor won't let it start because it thinks it's too lean.

[TBolt98]

Yes, I did put the cover back on first. I also replaced the coil and ignition module with no success. Even though I can't afford to pay shop rate, it looks like it's getting towed somewhere monday. I don't know anything else to try!

[Hammer Head]

For all troubleshooting there's three things to check.. fuel, air & spark.. is the air filter clogged, are the plugs firing.. you know you're getting fuel at the filter but what about after it?

[TBolt98]

About the only thing I haven't checked is the fuel pressure because I don't have a gauge... but I think if it was a fuel issue it would at least fire on the ether and die out. I'm pretty convinced it's an ignition or timing problem and just can't track it. Hopefully I can get it on a diagnostic machine and the answer will pop right up.

[Sparky2263]

I'd put a cap and rotor on like the previous poster suggested. Unless you know what to look for, they'll pass a visual inspection.

[12sws27]

u say u gotta spark but how strong is the spark ? what color is it ? is it a yelloish orange spark or a bluish spark?

[drgriffi2371]

cap and rotor is not very much at autozone, I think like $40. Do that first, dealership will charge you at least $90 just to diagnose, and then over $200 to fix if it is the cap and rotor. I know from experience.

[TBolt98]

She left on a flatbed today, place your bets... I'll update you when I find out. Thanks for all of your input,

[drgriffi2371]

My bet is cap and rotor. Let us know what you find out.

[TBolt98]

And the winner is . . . . apprently a fussy fuel pump. The mechanic went out today to push it in the shop and it started right up and that is the only thing he can think of. I did whack the gas tank with a bat pretty good a few different times during the whole ordeal to no avail... guess it just wanted to go for a ride. P.S. he did check the cap and rotor and thought I had allready replaced it.

[drgriffi2371]

I was wrong, I'll admit it. Mine had a fuel pump prob a while back too. I shoulda thought about that.