Broke t-stat bolt

[bespurcell]

I broke one of the thermostat bolts off in the intake manifold while trying to change my thermostat. I went ahead and put some gasket maker on the housing, installed the new t-stat and tightened the one remaining bolt. I ran it long enough for the t-stat to open and close a few times and it seems to be holding for now. I don't think it will last though and I want to fix it. Any suggestions that don't cost a fortune? Btw I put anti-seize on the good bolt before I reinstalled it. I should have done this the last time I changed it but, I never thought about it. I have a drill and tap set. I'm just not sure I can tap the bolt if I drill it.

[Hammer Head]

Is there any of the bolt still outside the bolt hole? If there is you could use a stud remover or clap on a pair of vice grips & work it loose. If not, looks like you're going to need to drill out that hole. Don't get too concerned about being able to tap a bolt.. you want that thing out of there, no questions asked. You have a couple options. Here's two.. 1) you drill the bolt out the full size of the threads & use a helicoil, or loc-tite has some new stuff in a tube, for thread repair (I don't like helicoil).. or 2) drill the bolt 85-90 percent of its size & then use an extractor (the kind you hammer in there would be the best, IMO).

[Hammer Head]

Here's a kit of bolt extractors from summit.. I have one of these sets. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WMR%2DW80635&N=700+115&autoview=sku (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WMR%2DW80635&N=700+115&autoview=sku)

[bespurcell]

There's about 3/8" of the bolt sticking out. Problem is it's seized in the aluminum. There's no way it will come out with vise-grips. I've done that before but, I don't even want to try on this. It might work if I drilled most of the bolt out.

[bespurcell]

Here's a kit of bolt extractors from summit.. I have one of these sets. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WMR%2DW80635&N=700+115&autoview=sku (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WMR%2DW80635&N=700+115&autoview=sku)
Do you just drill the hole out to a certain size, hammer one of these in and unscrew it? I don't know if that would work or not because the bolt is in there so tight but, it might. Thanks for the input. I've never seen this type of extractor before.

[Hammer Head]

Yea, well.. you could always use a little heat (whatever kind of torch you may have), then remove the heat from it & spray some penetrating oil (WD-40 or Liquid Wrench, etc) on the area before everything gets cooled off so it works itself in a little better.

[Hammer Head]

I also have a craftsman stud removal tool, too.. I asked if the bolt came out a little & this might help you, too, if you had one. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904458000P

[bespurcell]

I think I'll try the torch/WD-40 method first and go from there. I had forgot about that. This is why I love this forum.

[Maximus]

Drill that sum ***** out about 75 80% then use a good bolt stud remover and get it out.If you have to re tap it its not the end of the world.But you better get that thing fixed before it does and it will start to heat and cool and eventually start spewing like hell.One bolt even with firm torque on it the other side will eventually start coming loose from the engine getting hot and then cold.

[bespurcell]

I know it's a temporary fix. I plan on fixing it ASAP. I was just looking for different ideas on the best way to get it out. Thanks.

[bespurcell]

I drilled it out to 13/64" and still couldn't get it out with an extractor. I tried heating it and using WD-40 nothing. I even used a cheater on the handle that comes with the extractor. I just bent the handle. I finally just tapped it out to 1/4" and put a 1/4" x 20 x 1" bolt in it and the problem is solved. I worked on it for 4 hours.

[Hammer Head]

That blows..

[bespurcell]

Tell me about it. I was getting pretty frustrated.[understatement]

[Mikz86TA]

Time for a 2114 Conversion?

[Jay_Pollard]

i find the best thing to get a bolt out of aluminum is to heat the bolt, very rapidly, without transfering too much heat to the aluminum housing (in this case your intake) then slam your extractor in there and turn it out. Sometimes heating and quenching is necessary, but I wouldnt recommend that with aluminum..

Hopefully what you did works for ya, sounds like it should..

[firefighter]

Time for a 2114 Conversion?

HSR? Or maybe an Eaton? (give me a few months. lol)

[bespurcell]

i find the best thing to get a bolt out of aluminum is to heat the bolt, very rapidly, without transfering too much heat to the aluminum housing (in this case your intake) then slam your extractor in there and turn it out. Sometimes heating and quenching is necessary, but I wouldnt recommend that with aluminum..

Hopefully what you did works for ya, sounds like it should..
Yes. I tried the heat thing like you said. I probably spent close to an hour trying that method. The 1/4" bolt should be sufficient though. I used washers on it because the bolt that was on it was 5/16" I think, so the hole was a little big.

[red92AWD]

i prefer studs over bolts. fyi a chevy waterpump pulley stud kit from motor mite works perfect on cpi t-stat housings and egr valves. i do reccoment getting flanged washers to go on them, only because i think nuts and lock washers on such small things looks thrown together. i do in fact have the stud kit installed on my cpi intake which i am working on for my new powerplant. i can put up pics if anyone wants to see.