View Full Version : front end questions
imdawrlus
01-05-05, 09:45 PM
i did a new draglink on my truck because i was having problems with the front end and decided to replace the few parts that i havent allready replaced....going to be doing ball joints sometime in the next few days....my question is, is it worth it or not to do control arm bushings on a 170K mile truck??? also going to be doing shocks..can anyone tell me some good brands and/or good websites to buy them from??? one more thing...what tire size SPECIFICALLY would be best for gas mileage?? the tires i have on there now are 31"...they kind of bog it down, sometimes like it cant get out of its own way....it has 3.08 gears...what would be the PERFECT size for gas mileage??? THANKS!!
DROPPEDGMC
01-05-05, 10:13 PM
take a look at there condition. it would hurt to replace them. especially if your already there. it might help alignment also if they are worn
you can order a performance complete kit from p-s-t (http://www.p-s-t.c0m) that comes with all the bushing, tie rod ends, upper/lower ball joints, idler, and pitman arm for 230 bux. if you nickle and dime it, it's going to cost allot more.
pst isn't the only ones that offer a front end rebuild, but that's who i've been useing and I don't have any complaints
imdawrlus
01-06-05, 01:41 PM
since i allready had the new idler are and new inner and outer tie rods on both sides installed from about a year ago, it wouldent be worth it to buy a complete kit...i know that it wouldent hurt anything to replace the control arm bushings but i'm told you need to completlly take off the control arms and drop the spring out and since i dont have the setup, tools, or experience for that, i figure i'll just see if i can get away without doing that.....how do i check them?? and how big of a job is it?? thanks
imdawrlus
01-06-05, 11:00 PM
noones ever done control arm bushings??
yeap. I've done a few. you really don't need any specalized equipment. hand tools, a jack and a chain will do it. you losen the nut on the lower ball joint,flip the nut over any screw it down flush with the top of the wedge bolt and whack it with a hammer or you can use a pickle fork. I'm assuming you've allredy removed the wheel and rotor. jack up the control arm and wrap the chain around spring and frame rail for safty. remove the ball joint nut and let the control arm down. if the coil doesn't pop out when you lower the jack you can you a crowbar to pop it the rest of the way out. Stand off to the side when you do this.don't stand in the coils path. It hurts
now remove the 2 bolts attaching the controle arm to the frame. You can rent a tool to remove the bushings or knock them out with a sledge(be carfull not to hit the control arm if you use a sledge) then knock the new bushing in with a seal installer (cheap 1" socket) and reinstall everything. getting the lower controle arm back on is kinda tricky with out a coil compresor but can be done.
put the jack under the truck put the coil in the sping pocket in the cotrol arm and put the control arm on the jack pad. line it as closely as posibble and jack it up it to plase. slide the bolts back in and put the nut back on the ball joint wedge nut. remove jack and torque everything.
trust when I say it's easyer to do than it is to explain.
imdawrlus
01-07-05, 11:53 PM
i dont know if i'm up to it...i know its something that i could EVENTUALLY figure out, but i dont want to have my truck stranded in my garage for a week....i know that i'm allready half way there with the fact that i'm doing ball joints....but is this something that would even make that much of a difference?? what if i just check them when i'm doing the ball joints?? how do i check them?? thanks for putting up with me, i know i can be a pain in the *** sometimes....haha....
it's not that hard. just have all the parts,some beer, an extra person, and a free weekend. if you leave out the beer you can have the whole front end done in a day without air tools. about 2 hours with airtools and a coil compressor.
firehawkclone
01-09-05, 08:04 PM
if the a arm bushings are cracked or distorted in anyway,than they are done.you can get just the a arm bushing by them self's.
You should have someone that has done this before!
imdawrlus
01-10-05, 08:48 PM
yea i did take a quick look at them and they are cracked.....i'm just going to suck it up and do it....i thought about it, i mean, how else am i going to learn?? what about shocks?? can anyone list the good brands/bad brands?? thanks......
firehawkclone
01-10-05, 11:11 PM
KONI adjustable,BILSTIENor EDELBROCK IAS are ok too!i did the IAS first and there great for for most people,but i just had to have the koni's.
JUST REMEMBER...YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR IN SHOCKS
imdawrlus
01-10-05, 11:38 PM
haha if i had the money i'd probablly go with the eldelbrocks....i cant be spending 300 bucks on shocks right now, i'm also in the middle of doing a bunch of other things to this truck.......is there anything good in the 30-40 dollar a shock range?? if i get what i pay for, how much should i be paying for a decent quality shock?? i'm sure anything is better than the ones i have on there.....i beleve their original with 170K on there.....the back ones have even started to rust through....what do you guys think??
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