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View Full Version : Only if you know a hellova lot about clutches



importmaster1300
01-10-05, 04:08 PM
Ok, it is really hard to find a badas-s racing clutch for my truck. I have heard that Centerforce doesn't last that long. So the question is: can I get a clutch disc from somethin else?
EX: Take a Honda s-2000 clutch disc and use it in my 2.2l s-10.
I was wondering this because after looking @ my old disc.
If not (more than likely) is there a "racing" disc out there?

OBI WAN
01-10-05, 04:45 PM
Dual friction clutches like the Centerforce are about the best you can get. Its not that there is anything wrong with the clutches, in fact all clutches are created equal for the most part. 2 things cause clutches to wear fast, one is riding the pedal. The other is too small a surface for the amount of power you put out. Your main problem to finding a good clutch is the size of it. I'm not exactly sure of the disc size, but thats the ticket. On the V-6 and also the V-8s you can go from a 10 inch to and 11 and sometimes a 12, this surface area along with heavier springs, dual friction etc is the ticket to holding power.
All 4 cylinder discs, 6's and 8's are made within the same specs so gettinf one from another for one isnt gonna spline right, and second has the same holding power. Are you wheel hopping??? This will beat the snot out of a clutch disc and cause the springs within them to fail!! Centerforce , Hayes and a few others are your best ones , but since its a 4 they may not offer a full race version clutch, maybe just call some race ones at best.

OBI WAN
01-10-05, 04:53 PM
Premature Clutch Facing Wear:

1. Driver rides clutch pedal- Uses it to hold the vehicle on hills etc.


2. Abnormal use of clutch as brake- Hard RPM downshifts


3. Unnecessary use of clutch-Riding the pedal- Double clutching etc.


4. Excessive slipping during clutch engagement- Riding the clutch out, too slow a release!


5. Insufficient pedal free play- Doesnt apply to hydralic ones


6. Broken, heat-set or weak pressure springs- Wheel hop etc causes this


7. Severely warped pressure plate- From riding and slow releasing


8. Flywheel not resurfaced at installation- Never redo one and not get it Blanchard ground


11. Worn out Pilot Bushings or T/O Bearing- Always replace on overhauls!

bvr775
01-10-05, 05:17 PM
call the parts stores and find a cluch builder in your genrale area. they are usaly listed in the industrial pages sence 18 wheellers and heavy equipment is thier main income. If you find a good cluch rebuilder they'll be able to set you up with a good clutch

DROPPEDGMC
01-10-05, 08:15 PM
Premature Clutch Facing Wear:

1. Driver rides clutch pedal- Uses it to hold the vehicle on hills etc.


2. Abnormal use of clutch as brake- Hard RPM downshifts


3. Unnecessary use of clutch-Riding the pedal- Double clutching etc.


4. Excessive slipping during clutch engagement- Riding the clutch out, too slow a release!


5. Insufficient pedal free play- Doesnt apply to hydralic ones


6. Broken, heat-set or weak pressure springs- Wheel hop etc causes this


7. Severely warped pressure plate- From riding and slow releasing


8. Flywheel not resurfaced at installation- Never redo one and not get it Blanchard ground


11. Worn out Pilot Bushings or T/O Bearing- Always replace on overhauls!

:lol: :lol: :lol: thats good!!

Maximus
01-10-05, 09:38 PM
I have run the centerforce dual friction clutches in several different rides ive owned and even hammering the hell out of them I have not had one problem with them at all.As a matter of fact with constant punishment from just plain out hard driving or racing they never gave at all.And I never had to replace one either.I have a dual friction in my TA and it makes a very substantial difference in holding strength.I would highly recommend them to anyone even for a daily driver.They aint cheap but worth their weight in gold as to the quality.Don't know if they make one for your application or not but im sure you call them up and find out.

Maximus
01-10-05, 10:20 PM
Here is Centerforce part numbers for a S10 with a 4.3 or a 2.2 in case someone else is interested.
CENTERFORCE (C78) DF120170 DUAL FRICTION CLUTCH SET
2.2L, 9 1/8" CLUTCH, SPLINE 1 1/8-10
CENTERFORCE (C78) DF188450 DUAL FRICTION CLUTCH SET
4.3L, 11" CLUTCH, SPLINE 1 1/8-10
CENTERFORCE (C78) CFT361170 CENTERFORCE II CLUTCH SET
2.2L, 9 1/8" CLUTCH, SPLINE 1 1/8-10
CENTERFORCE (C78) CF361170 CENTERFORCE I CLUTCH SET
2.2L, 9 1/8" CLUTCH, SPLINE 1 1/8-10
Here is a link to Summits sight for a dual friction clutch set for your truck for $279.39. http://store.summitracing.com/images/browse_images/gl_txt_bug.gifCenterforce (http://store.summitracing.com/evendor.asp?N=120+400420&x=12&y=10)http://store.summitracing.com/images/browse_images/spacer.gif http://store.summitracing.com/images/browse_images/spacer.gif CTF-DF120170 (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CTF%2DDF120170&N=100&Ntk=PartSearch&Ntt=CTF%2DDF120170)
Clutch Set, Dual Friction, Metallic Disc, Diaphragm Style Pressure Plate, Kit

firehawkclone
01-10-05, 10:49 PM
You can't really go wrong with a centerforce import!FYI if you get(or find)an all out race clutch you wont like it on the street at all,it will just chatter all the time.it's like on or off,no sliping it to get the truck rolling off the stop light/sign!

LilYellowZQ8
01-10-05, 10:51 PM
I ran a Centerforce Stage 2 clutch and pressure plate in my old 2000 2.2L and didn't have any complaints about it. Not much difference in pedal pressure, but holding power was increased also. I would recommend that one for the 2.2L. Price is not too bad either. I had to replace mine because of the dealers screw up. A piece of wire (like those cheap keyrings dealers have for service) jammed between the pressure plate and the pressure plate housing.

Maximus
01-10-05, 11:18 PM
Pedal pressure with the dual friction is very noticeable but it doesn't effect your driving at all.Atleast it didn't in any vehicle I used them in.The centerforce 1 and 2 are a good improvement over stock no doubt about it.And they don't cost very much as LilYellow stated.For your truck I wouldn't use a dual friction.The 2.2 really doesn't make enough power to need a dual friction clutch.The centerforce 2 will have at least 50% more holding power than a stock clutch.

importmaster1300
01-11-05, 12:04 AM
Well for some reason my truck burnt through a clutch in less than 7000 miles.
I know how to shift and I don't do any of the things above. Although after I introduced Seafoam into the engine, my truck's clutch started slipping. I know it probally didn't do it directly.

DROPPEDGMC
01-11-05, 01:03 AM
center fource has a good clutch imo

T Man
01-11-05, 01:05 AM
no way the seafoam has had anything to do with it, unless you poured it down the back of the engine or into the bellhousing. My guess would be too much "driving" (not grocery getting if you know what I mean) on a factory clutch not originaly ment for that.

OBI WAN
01-11-05, 06:09 AM
Pedal pressure with the dual friction is very noticeable but it doesn't effect your driving at all.Atleast it didn't in any vehicle I used them in.The centerforce 1 and 2 are a good improvement over stock no doubt about it.And they don't cost very much as LilYellow stated.For your truck I wouldn't use a dual friction.The 2.2 really doesn't make enough power to need a dual friction clutch.The centerforce 2 will have at least 50% more holding power than a stock clutch.
You wont feel pedal pressure anymore with the assist of the slave, master amd brake fluid-hydraulic!!! And thats what I was thinking, under 200 ponies a factory springed semi-metallis is way more than enough to hold this. Either its the install that was wrong, or soemthing driving habit style did it in. Stop and go type driving really doesnt end the life that much shorter. Could be something with the slave that never allowed full contact and kept it partially engaged and all times!

importmaster1300
01-11-05, 06:24 PM
Well my old clutch lasted longer than this and I was alot easier on this one.

Maximus
01-11-05, 06:56 PM
Like OBI said could be the install.You might have air in the system not letting it fully release.And if it's not releasing fully and making some contact you will burn a clutch up quik.You might wanna try and bleed the system.Have you been smelling anything.

importmaster1300
01-11-05, 07:12 PM
I can smell it only after driving it hard and I can bearly smell it.
You cant even notice that it slips until I am in 3rd 4th and 5th.
That is why I was like WTF?
I will go and try to belld it now then I will post back and let yall know.

OBI WAN
01-11-05, 08:14 PM
If you can smell the clutch at any time, you have a slip in action. Make sure the master is full, fully bled system and if not there something was done wrong with the reinstall position of the slave!!

importmaster1300
01-11-05, 09:41 PM
if not there something was done wrong with the reinstall position of the slave!!
What do you mean?
There is only 2 bolts and I can only install it 1 way.
Like when I am in 4th I can drive it fine but when I give is a little more gas it goes from 2000 to 4000 then back down to 2100 or so then I start accellerating.

LilYellowZQ8
01-11-05, 11:42 PM
If it had air in the line, it would make the pedal travel further towards the floor to dis-engage it. Its the same as having air in your brake lines, you will have a soft pedal. You probably heat glazed the flywheel and pressure plate after you installed it. Did you drive it hard, meaning you slipped the clutch too much before it was broken in? Did you bleed the slave cylinder after the transmission was re-installed? If not, that could cause the pressure plate to not dis-engage completely therefore causing excessive heat, causing it to heat glaze the pressure plate and flywheel.

importmaster1300
01-12-05, 02:59 AM
Well I blead it and no change.
I am starting to thing it was the pilot bearing that did it.
I am going to get a centerforce disk the 18th.
Is there a problem using the old Pressure plate?
Only if there is nothing wrong w/ it.

OBI WAN
01-12-05, 06:27 AM
If the springs have retained there tension there fine to use. BUT get it blanchard ground to make sure its flat and true. It'll cost ya under $25 usually to get them done and a good measure also to saving the new disc from failure !