Installed differential girdle, need sway bar advice

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

I installed a Trick Flow differential girdle. The install went pretty smoothly. I noticed that there wasn't much room between the corners of the cover and the sway bar, but wasn't sure if it was going to be an issue. I took it for a test drive and tried to make sure that I would be pushing the sway bar around a bit. When I inspected afterwards, I noticed that the sway bar had nicked the lower left corner of the girdle. The pictures are from before it got nicked, but I circled the problem spot in the one picture.

So, what are my options to take care of this? Obviously, I realize that it could lead to problems such as a leaky seal.

One idea I had was switching to a ZR2 sway bar. I'm not sure that this would work, but it's a thought. I know that they are thicker, but does anyone know if they are shaped differently enough that I might gain some clearance there? The ZR2's have the 8.5" rear end, so they might be just that much different. Otherwise, will the sway bar bolt up for me? I know the brackets on the axle can be replaced w/ the zr2 ones, but how about the mounting points for the ends?

Oh, and I'm not sure, but some of this problem might be a result of the sway bar position being altered by my lift?

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x45/treasonagainstcaesar/IMG_54781280x768-1.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x45/treasonagainstcaesar/IMG_54761280x768.jpg

[DMP]

I cant really answer your question, but that looks good. That has its own drain plug right? I just have a regular chrome cover.

[csl2006]

looks good. Thought about undercoating your truck yet? Gettin ready to undercoat my frame.

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

Yeah, there is both a drain plug and a fill plug on it. My old cover was rusted to the point I could pull huge layers of metal off, plus I needed to change the fluid.

I really need to do something about at least touching up the rusting spots under there. Are you going to do anything about cleaning up the rust first?

[firefighter]

You could see if you can get one of the bars that mounts to the front of the diff. I just recently (last few months) put in a Zex and a cover that is essentially the same on my 2door 2wd Blazer it has a ZQ8 suspension and the sway bar is in front of the readr end.

Or just put a grinder to a couple of things down there.

[87wildside]

You may be able to space the mounts on the axle out until the sway bar clears.

[Mikz86TA]

Front bar is not going to work because of the gas tank.
Spacer would/could. How much does it hit? Could you mod the cover and bevel the ends?

[89BLAZE]

you could always run it without a sway bar since its a 4x4 but it wouldnt corner as well on the highway but it would have a tad bit more flex in the rear without the bar.

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

I had thought about grinding the corners down a little--it wouldn't take much. But I don't want to go that route yet. Oh, and I think I discovered another issue that this won't resolve... take a look at the pic

Eric, when I read your statement I interpreted it as sliding the mounts out on the axle towards the wheels. But you meant to use a spacer on the mount to give the cover more room?

As far as running w/out a sway bar, I don't think it'd be very safe for me. I drive pretty hard on the road sometimes; especially w/ my lift, I need all the stability that I can get.

You can see a small gouge on the one corner. The right side is even smaller than that and hardly noticeable. I'm pretty sure that it also hit the jam nut on the load stud. After my test drive, I had to make the 200 mile drive my parents home back to my apartment. I was pretty conscious of not taking fast, sharp corners.

Thanks for all the input so far!

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x45/treasonagainstcaesar/IMG_54811280x768.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x45/treasonagainstcaesar/IMG_54831280x768.jpg

[jshiv]

whats the advantage of the cover? looks?? just curious, i've seen a few like that and i always wondered what they are for

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

From summit: "Features a cast aluminum construction and extreme duty bearing cap support studs for uncompromised differential protection."

And then from a similar girdle on summit: "has a heat-treated aluminum body which helps keep bearings and ring gears in place. Also, the incorporated, adjustable load bolts prevent cap movement and breakage, and ensure proper pinion depth and backlash."

The aluminum won't rust out like my last one did, it has a drain plug so I can change my fluid w/out removing the cover, and I'm pretty sure the fins are supposed to aid in cooling.

Oh, yeah, and it looks sweet :D

[jshiv]

sounds good...i don't think you'll have that much of a clearance issue. looks like you could sand away some of the rust on the sway bar (maybe repaint it) and you'd be okay. looks like dirt smudges to me...+ it really doesn't move much right in there. just what the rubber mounts flex

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

There isn't much of a clearance issue, but there still is an issue. The spots are definitely not dirt--it was nicked/rubbed/smashed (whatever you call it) by the sway bar.


I've been trying to find some info on the ZR2's sway bar, from the pictures I can find, it appears that the sway bar goes over or in front of the axle... can anyone confirm this? Mike is that what you were saying won't work, or were you referring to the ZQ8 style?

[87wildside]

Eric, when I read your statement I interpreted it as sliding the mounts out on the axle towards the wheels. But you meant to use a spacer on the mount to give the cover more room?

Yes, I think. What I meant was using spacers between the axle and the mount to move the sway bar out from the axle. Can you get a pic of the bar mount on the axle?

[87wildside]

it really doesn't move much right in there. just what the rubber mounts flexIt will move alot at the center of the bar during suspension travel. The more droop, the more it will hit the cover.

To bad it uses that style of end links........longer would help.

[Hammer Head]

As I'm sure some of you may or may not know I too have a Trick Flow brand girdle. It clears just fine. Is that the stock bar or a ZQ8 optioned suspension? Mine has the ZQ8 suspension. If it's the non-ZQ8 or, even if it is but, it's the blazer's design that could be the reason why it hits a little. you could always try & move to bar to a spot farther down or possibly up. Just a thought.

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

here are some pics of the sway bar mounts on the axle. sorry they're not the greatest--it was getting dark already.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x45/treasonagainstcaesar/IMG_54911024x768.jpghttp://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x45/treasonagainstcaesar/IMG_54901024x768.jpg

I see where you're saying to use the spacer--between the 2 halfs of the bracket. At first I was thinking I could just get some thick washers, but then I realized that the rubber mount wouldn't be held in place like it's supposed to. I don't have the tools I would need to make the spacers and I don't think there is any type of standard part that would fit that, so I'd have to have a shop make it for me.

Jason, that is the stock bar from a 4wd 4-door blazer (not a ZQ8). I think moving the bar further down might help, but I don't think my current end links are long enough to do that.

[87wildside]

All you would need is a drill, a bit and a hacksaw.

I would get some 1 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick flat steel (home depot) cut it to the size of the axle bracket and drill the holes. You may have to do 2 per side but it shouldn't take long.

[Hammer Head]

Ok, that could be why.. blazer/4x4. Not 2wd/truck like mine. I know the s15s use different style rear bars than the 2wds.

[12sws27]

what if you just used replaced all the stock rubber with polyurethane? maybe it will stiffen it up and stop it from hitting?

[DMP]

All you would need is a drill, a bit and a hacksaw.

I would get some 1 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick flat steel (home depot) cut it to the size of the axle bracket and drill the holes. You may have to do 2 per side but it shouldn't take long.

:thumbup_1 Sounds like the best idea. And you could even get longer U-bolts if needed.

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

All you would need is a drill, a bit and a hacksaw.


Ok, thanks for breaking it down for me. I was thinking of it as being harder than it needs to be.


what if you just used replaced all the stock rubber with polyurethane? maybe it will stiffen it up and stop it from hitting?

I had thought of that, but I can't pick up the bushing that I need locally. I tried autozone, napa, and pepboys. I have a 23mm sway bar. And from what I see on Summit, Prothane is the only company that even makes them.

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

I know this isn't one of the most interesting projects around here, but I figured I'd update so you guys didn't think I was just sitting on it.

I got all the info I needed to realize that ZR2 sway bar isn't going to work at all. On the ZR2, and then I assume most/all 2dr blazers, it uses the end link style more like a bolt. On my 4dr, it's more like a rod with an eyelet on each end. Also on the ZR2 the bar mounts to the frame forward of the axle, but on mine it mounts to the frame rear of the axle--I have much longer end links.

Eric--I went to Home Depot yesterday to pick up some steel to make the spacers that you were talking about. The thickest I could find was about .08" inches. If they had anything thicker, they sure couldn't tell me where it was. In the building supplies the sheets they had were a little thinner than that. I have a list of about 15 metal supply places in the area that I'm going to call on Monday--someone must have what I need!!! You were talking about longer end links, too... that got me thinking of an idea that I had when I first did the lift. Do you foresee any problems with finding the same style from another vehicle just a couple inches longer? With just a quick search, I found these http://www.autoanything.com/suspension-systems/61A2878A0A0A2139870.aspx
and these
http://www.jeeperz-creeperz.com/sway-links-rear-p-5126.html
I'd have to get measurements, but they look so similar, the only problem I can think of would be finding the right length.

I got a set of poly bushings, too. I went out tonight and put the ones in the axle mounts. I had enough time to do that, then get one end link off and realized there was no way I was getting that bushing out tonight. Probably end up either burning it out or maybe I can hammer it out if I have a vice to work with.

The other thing that happened was I messed up the angle on the axle mounts; they're slight rotated down now... I realized I should have disconnected the bar from the end links to get them lined back up, but it was getting dark and cold, so i'll take care of that in the AM.

I may have been giving information that a lot of people know, but maybe somewhere down the road this will help some other noob like myself out.

Comments always appreciated. :)

[bespurcell]

I think this is a very interesting project. I've definitely learned a few things and you're doing a good job on the write up. I hope you get it all figured out.

[12sws27]

i think it a good thread to. me or someone else might run in to the same problem down the road. so keep the updates coming. don't forget, lots of pics.

[87wildside]

Trying to find help in Home Depot is next to impossible. I think they don't help on purpose so you wander the store and see more of their crap.

In all reality your lift should have come with longer end links. The legs on the sway bar should stay as close to level or stock position as possible weather lifting or lowering. Since you have the 2" lift my thought would be 2" longer end link. I don't know how much they will help with clearance but they won't hurt.

[DMP]

Did you ever get this sorted out? I just bought the same cover. I bought one of those chrome ones, and its already rusting....plus I have a leak. Ive heard alot of bad reviews from it anyways. So I coughed up the money to get something good. I bought some poly bushings for my sway bar...might as well get that done too. Im hoping the cover has better clearance that what you dealt with.

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

I got my spacers made last weekend. I'm sure my neighbors love me, since I was drilling 1/4" steel and using my angel grinder on the back patio of my apartment. I made 4 of them planning on using 2 on each side, but I still have to get some longer u-bolts. I was able to install 1 spacer on each side (so 1/4" of spacing). I think just that helped a lot, but I still want to get the u-bolts to put the 2nd set on. (I know, I know, this thread is worthless without pics. I'll try to post some by Sunday).

I've been contacting skyjacker about a longer set of longer end links. I think I found a set they make that is going to work that is actually for a TJ Jeep. But I need to contact them again to double check everything--hopefully they can send me an drawing w/ called out dimensions, b/c I'm going to have to order these, and I really want to make sure they're going to work.

I don't think you should have the problems I've had w/ clearance. Doesn't your sway bar actually go over the differential? Hammerhead said he hasn't had any problems and he has the zq8 truck sway bar.

As far as the leak, what kind of gasket did you use? I used the cardboard gasket that game w/ my cover and put a think layer of form-a-gasket all the way around both sides, too. You'll need the form-a-gasket for the bearing studs anyway. I think I might have a slight leak on one of my load studs, but for the time being I'm just keeping an eye on it, and if I have to reseal that one I will be able to do so w/out loosing much (if any) fluid.

Did you actually get the cover yet? If you plan on following procedure to a T on this one, you might need a few extra tools:
-6mm hex key socket for torquing load studs
-make sure you have a torque wrench
-the bolts included w/ the cover were 12point, but I forget what size.

[87wildside]

Next time your under it take some pics of the spacers so if anyone else has this problem they can see how to fix it.

[DMP]

As far as the leak, what kind of gasket did you use? I used the cardboard gasket that game w/ my cover and put a think layer of form-a-gasket all the way around both sides, too. You'll need the form-a-gasket for the bearing studs anyway. I think I might have a slight leak on one of my load studs, but for the time being I'm just keeping an eye on it, and if I have to reseal that one I will be able to do so w/out loosing much (if any) fluid.

Did you actually get the cover yet? If you plan on following procedure to a T on this one, you might need a few extra tools:
-6mm hex key socket for torquing load studs
-make sure you have a torque wrench
-the bolts included w/ the cover were 12point, but I forget what size.

I used the gasket that came with the cover and I used silicone. But I didnt torque them to specs so thats probably why it leaked. But now I have a torque wrench for it and I have the Trick Flow cover right now. Im gonna work on it in the morning. Im lucky I found a socket for those ARP bolts....never seen anything like them. The only thing im missing is the hex socket. Im trying to figure out how to install those poly bushings. Theres 4 of the same ones....I know where they go, I just dont know if you install 2 in each hole or what. :confused: BTW, I got the Prothane bushings.

[DMP]

Mine is done. Just didnt fill it up with oil yet. I wanna wait for the silicone to cure.
http://usera.imagecave.com/dmp23/01/DSCF1640.JPG

[bespurcell]

Nice!

[DMP]

Just wanted to say that I dont have any leaks. :D I torqued down the bolts, and used RTV silicone with the gasket they give you. I removed the sway bar to make the install easier. Ill be getting the "right" sway bar bushings tommorrow...I ordered the wrong ones. Theyre for a Blazer so ill be selling them. I hope my sway bar clears or ill be making some spacers too.

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

Does your sway bar sit in the same location at mine? I thought yours would go up and over the diff.

I called Skyjacker back and they don't have any kind of drawings they can send me calling out the dimensions of their end end links. So I need to find a local place that has them or find an internet shop that will email the pics to me.

Also, I still need get the longer U-bolts to use the 2nd set of spacers.

Pics of the spacers (.25") and then of the spacers installed. I primed them and then painted them w/ kyrlon rust tough enamel (flat black). I don't care that they look great, but I don't want them to rust. They are in a letter better condition than everything else that's down there.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x45/treasonagainstcaesar/blazer%20stuff/IMG_54951280x768.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x45/treasonagainstcaesar/blazer%20stuff/IMG_55291280x768.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x45/treasonagainstcaesar/blazer%20stuff/IMG_55321280x768.jpg

[bespurcell]

Looks good.

[DMP]

By the looks of the pics, it looks like you have just enough thread on the bolts. I dont see it being a problem as long as its tight. But to be on the safe side, get the longer U-bolts like you said.

Yeah my sway bar sits the same way. I just bolted the sway bar on with the new bushings tonight. It looks like I have enough clearance. Ill take a pic of it later.

How much clearance do you have from those corners on the girdle with the new spacers? I just wanna make sure I dont have any problems.