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nrlanni
05-06-08, 01:02 AM
I understand when you replace your ac compressor you're supposed to change some other parts.

I'm aware of hose and such but what about the accumulator or evap unit?

Note that my pump went bad mechanically so I'm assuming there's metal debris in the system. I'm think'n the accumulator should be changed because it likely has metal in it - correct?

The system will be cleaned out and I have new hoses.

Anything else?

bespurcell
05-06-08, 07:41 PM
I would get a new dryer.

JONGO8
05-06-08, 09:21 PM
change out the orfice tube.

bespurcell
05-06-08, 09:22 PM
change out the orfice tube.
Does it get plugged up pretty easy? Is that why you change it?

JONGO8
05-06-08, 09:25 PM
Yes. You allways change it out when you open up the system up. I hope this make sence. I'm drunk

bespurcell
05-06-08, 09:36 PM
I can tell.

JONGO8
05-06-08, 09:37 PM
I hoped i helped. I'm drunker now..

nrlanni
05-06-08, 09:52 PM
JONGO8, I hope it was good booze.

Yes, you were helpful

The orifice got clogged with debris and then the compressor wouldn't get any lubrication because someone told me the compressor's oil is carried in the refrigerant. That's why the compressor went bad, or maybe it's vise-versa - the pump started going bad and clogged the orifice and made things worse.

but I have a question.

I'm not sure where the dryer is at or what it looks like. Looking at the factory manual I see the following:

-- core unit (inside the cab)
-- accumulator (in the engine compartment connected to the core unit)
-- orifice (on the accumulator)
-- some hoses/tubing
-- compressor
-- condenser (in front of the radiator)
-- electric blower fan

Am I missing something?

Danzcameo
05-06-08, 10:44 PM
Are you staying w/R-12 or converting to 134?

nrlanni
05-06-08, 10:55 PM
134

Danzcameo
05-06-08, 11:04 PM
O.k. if you gine me a few minutes i'll toss you some info! I type with two fingers. I converted my 1st gen to 134 w/success.

bespurcell
05-06-08, 11:05 PM
Change your accumulator. Some vehicles have driers some have accumulators. They do the same thing.

Accumulators are used on systems that accommodate an orifice tube to meter refrigerants into the evaporator. It is connected directly to the evaporator outlet and stores excess liquid refrigerant. Introduction of liquid refrigerant into a compressor can do serious damage. Compressors are designed to compress gas not liquid. The chief role of the accumulator is to isolate the compressor from any damaging liquid refrigerant. Accumulators, like receiver-driers, also remove debris and moisture from a system. It is a good idea to replace the accumulator each time the system is opened up for major repair and anytime moisture and/or debris is of concern. Moisture is enemy number one for your A/C system. Moisture in a system mixes with refrigerant and forms a corrosive acid. When in doubt, it may be to your advantage to change the Accumulator or receiver in your system. While this may be a temporary discomfort for your wallet, it is of long term benefit to your air conditioning system.

Danzcameo
05-06-08, 11:47 PM
now-check labels under hood for a/c info. my system held 40 oz.-R-12 ,if thats what your system holds you'll only need 36 oz. of 134! now for the oil- you need to use synthetic oil in the whole system which means you need to use compressed air to clear the parts your not replacing. blow air throughthe evaporator and the condenser.when replacing the comp. always replace the accumulator/dryer and orifice tube.now the o-rings- lube the o-rings with a/c mineral oil,(not synthetic) now this part is important-the accumulator/dryer gets about 4to5 oz. of synthetic oil- 3oz. in the high side-the opening pointing to the firewall is the high side and put 2oz. in the other side.now the oil for the new comp.-2 to3oz.in the high side-the same side that the hose leads to the dryer, the acc/dryer is the canister looking silver thing when you remove that you will find the orifice tubeinside the steel tube just grab it with some needle nose pliers it pulls right out. when tightening everything back together(flare nuts)connections with the o-rings go easy i mean dont overtighten. before recharge of the systemyou need to evacuate the system-apply suction to about 28 inches of mercury and if your system is not 40 oz. like mine was multiply your oz.x.9 took a few to type this i stopped and had some choclate icecream yum. hope thats enough to confuse. hahaha-good luck hope this helped!!

nrlanni
05-07-08, 12:23 AM
Yes, I will change out the accumulator and orifice tube - money isn't the issue because I'm parting out a rust bucket that had running AC. Besides the transmission, it's really the only thing that did work on the unit. I think the '89 S-10 came out of the Great Lakes area before they drove it to So Ca.

The transmission is now in my kid's daily-drive-to-college '88 S-10 Blazer. It's amazing that you see so many of these cars around after 20 years.

Almost as good as my '65 Ranchero - it's got the original drive train. I used it for a daily driver for a couple of years. It needs a total going through now but it's incredible that a car built in 1965 can still be driven and doesn't breakdown.

Your advice is greatly appreciated guys. I knew I could count on you.

Thanks, Nate

bespurcell
05-07-08, 12:27 AM
No prob.