My New Traction Bars with 3" drop leafs

[12sws27]

i just bought some Lakewoods PN# 21705 for my 2000 4dr Blazer which has been lowered 3" up front and 3" in the rear with Belltech's drop leafs. i know there at least 1 guy on here with this set. so i have some questions for you Jay.:D or any 1 else that might be able to help me.

this is the problem. i bolted them up were the original spring plate was. and when i lowered them to check for snubber height. well i only had about 1/4"-3/8" between the bar and the frame. is this normal? can i cut the snubbers that much? the bars are also angled down a bit. the instruction say this shouldn't be. i was expecting they would though so i wasn't surprised. lakewood has 2* and 4* wedges to fix this, but they seem a bit narrow (about the width of the leaf). i guess that'd be ok but their also cast aluminum. should i get some wedges from JTR instead?
also i have three snubber holes. the farthest one from the rear of the bar lands right under a round hole in the frame. right after where the front of the leaf spring bolts up. is that wear the snubber should be?

[87wildside]

The angle is due to the drop springs.
The snubber should be directly below the front leaf spring eye or as close as possible.

[12sws27]

The angle is due to the drop springs.
The snubber should be directly below the front leaf spring eye or as close as possible.
ok so ineed to go back to the middle snubber hole. cool i wish i could find some pics. i seems like there awfully close. when i cut the snubbers there wont be much left. i thinking im going to have to wait till i get some shims.

[87wildside]

If the snubbers are touching the spring eye it's fine.

[12sws27]

so whys it not good for them to be angled down?

[12sws27]

well i ordered some 4* shims from summit. PN# 20504. they were exspensive but there 3" wide and are notched for the Ubolts. it should bring them down a bit so ill have a ittle more snubber. if i was to put them on now it looks like the snubber would only be about a 1/4" thick.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LAK%2D20504&N=700+400272+4294845396+115&autoview=sku (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LAK%2D20504&N=700+400272+4294845396+115&autoview=sku)

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/lak-20504_w.jpg

[bespurcell]

I hope they get here quicker than your traction bars....

[12sws27]

I hope they get here quicker than your traction bars....
me to. thats why i went with summit this time. they were cheaper there to.

[Mikz86TA]

Pics?

hey Eric.....remember me talking about those wedges for the leaf clamp idea? That is them.

[12sws27]

Pics?

hey Eric.....remember me talking about those wedges for the leaf clamp idea? That is them.
i got some pics on my jammer thread and in the VIP thread but ill get more for this thread while im installing them next week sometime. here some to hold you pic junkies over till then.

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/wynjammer/DSC01193.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/wynjammer/DSC01194.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/wynjammer/DSC01195.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/slapper%20plans/DSC01196.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/slapper%20plans/DSC01197.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/slapper%20plans/DSC01198.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/slapper%20plans/DSC01199.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/slapper%20plans/DSC01200.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/slapper%20plans/DSC01201.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/slapper%20plans/DSC01202.jpg

[Hammer Head]

You're not supposed to run traditional traction bars when a vehicle is lowered.. they WILL NOT fit properly. My suggestion whould be get adjustible traction bars such as Cal-Tracs.

[12sws27]

i was under the impression that you had a set of these.
caltracs or out of reach financially right now. from what i understand its because of the bar being low to the ground and angled down. and thats the reason its suggested to not use these. but these dont really hang that low and i can shim them to angle up. right? is there any other reason?

[Hammer Head]

I do have a set but keep in mind I only have the 1.5" drop from the ZQ8 suspension pkg. You may be able to shim them but now you'll be having to reverse engineer them to where they should be. I think even w/ a shim, & good luck finding one wide enough to fit between the spring & the shock mount/lakewood, it still wouldn't work out.. reason I say that is because it would need to be a serious angle on the shim & it will change how the shock mount/ lakewood needs to sit. The bar needs to be parallel to the ground & I think to do that you'd need to shim the hell out of it & redrill the holes so it fits properly.

[12sws27]

what about these? the instruction sheet that comes with the bars say, that if they angle down to use shims.
well i ordered some 4* shims from summit. PN# 20504. they were exspensive but there 3" wide and are notched for the Ubolts. it should bring them down a bit so ill have a ittle more snubber. if i was to put them on now it looks like the snubber would only be about a 1/4" thick.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LAK%2D20504&N=700+400272+4294845396+115&autoview=sku

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/lak-20504_w.jpg

[holsinger17]

if you loosen the track bars and scoot them forward so the back catches on the back of the mount for the axle i think it is you can fix the angling down prob and have them touching the spring...

[12sws27]

heres a pic of a guy that cut his bars up and re-welded them to work with drop blocks. i was just curious if this is were to snubber should go. i was under the impression i was to go under the eye itself. right? thats what you guys was telling me wasnt it?
http://www.blazinlow.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=25608&d=1155614503

[bespurcell]

Yes. You don't want the snubber pushing up on your spring.

[12sws27]

Yes. You dont want the snubber pushing up on your spring.
so yes to the pic is wrong and it need to be farther up. or yes the pic is right. lol

[bespurcell]

The pic is wrong.

[12sws27]

The pic is wrong.
ok thats what i thought.

[12sws27]

i got the wedges yesterday. so i will try to get the bars on this weekend.

['94 Big Blaze]

dude those slapper bars arent gonna do anything for you...

nothing against you but slapper bars suck...

you need slide a links...

[12sws27]

dude those slapper bars arent gonna do anything for you...

nothing against you but slapper bars suck...

you need slide a links...
really? so u think ill still have wheel hop?

['94 Big Blaze]

really? so u think ill still have wheel hop?
yup...they don't do much..just for looks mostly...

we've used them before on a few cars and trucks and they don't do much...

we now use slide a links..

[12sws27]

hmmm... well this weekend will see if your right.

['94 Big Blaze]

hmmm... well this weekend will see if your right.
i hope for your sake you didnt spend money not needed...

but are you going to running strip or street ?

and street or drag radial?

[12sws27]

its a 4dr DD. it will probly never see a track. im just trying to get rid of wheel hop. and these will do that. if i wanted better i woulda payed 300-400 bucks on caltrax or slide-a-links. these will be just fine 4 now. plus i like coon,possum, and armadilla-ka-bobs. ill get plenty free meat like this. damn it now im hungry!

[bespurcell]

its a 4dr DD. it will probly never see a track. im just trying to get rid of wheel hop. and these will do that. if i wanted better i woulda payed 300-400 bucks on caltrax or slide-a-links. these will be just fine 4 now. plus i like coon,possum, and armadilla-ka-bobs. ill get plenty free meat like this. damn it now im hungry!
Mmmmmmm possum.:D

[87wildside]

really? so u think ill still have wheel hop?They will get rid of the wheel hop if you adjust them right. They won't "lift" like cal tracks or slide a links but they do work. Most people won't listen and put the snubber in the correct spot and that keeps them from functioning properly. Wheel hop = axle wrap. If the snubber is under the spring eye it is next to impossible to have axle wrap.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w235/87wildside/Diagrams/axlewrap.gif

[12sws27]

thx Eric :)

['94 Big Blaze]

ehh..well im not sure what my problems with them would of been..i've never been able to get them to work correctly...i still had wheel hop but it wasent as bad as without anything there...

[bespurcell]

If they're not made specifically for the vehicle, or not made correctly in general they won't work as good.

[87wildside]

ehh..well im not sure what my problems with them would of been..i've never been able to get them to work correctly...i still had wheel hop but it wasent as bad as without anything there...My guess would be improper placement of the snubber. Either for/ aft or to far from the spring eye. Could have been the snubber was to soft.

Scott, your snubbers are Energy suspension poly pieces. I have used the same part for bump stops.

[12sws27]

Scott, your snubbers are Energy suspension poly pieces. I have used the same part for bump stops.
and there hard to cut with a dull pocket knife too. :o im gonna put them on tomorrow. this time ill have a hack-saw with me.

[bespurcell]

Use a port-a-band.:D It's quicker.

[87wildside]

Oil on the knife blade helps.

[12sws27]

Oil on the knife blade helps.
now why didnt i think of that? thx

you kid Brandon but in my mind spending close to $400 on one off these, http://www.cpomilwaukee.com/images/product/large/0729-21.jpg
just so i can install something that cost i little over a hundred makes perfectly good sense to me. :D

[87wildside]

Same here!

[Majormotion53]

heres a pic of a guy that cut his bars up and re-welded them to work with drop blocks. i was just curious if this is were to snubber should go. i was under the impression i was to go under the eye itself. right? thats what you guys was telling me wasnt it?
http://www.blazinlow.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=25608&d=1155614503

That was just a wast of money. As stated these are these are enginered to work on spec vics So if you mod you lose Call summit tech NOW:shake_125

[bespurcell]

now why didnt i think of that? thx

you kid Brandon but in my mind spending close to $400 on one off these, http://www.cpomilwaukee.com/images/product/large/0729-21.jpg
just so i can install something that cost i little over a hundred makes perfectly good sense to me. :D
I use one of these at work on a daily basis to cut rigid conduit, allthread, unistrut and anything else that gets in my way. If I can't get to it with that I use a sawzall.:D

[12sws27]

That was just a wast of money. As stated these are these are enginered to work on spec vics So if you mod you lose Call summit tech NOW:shake_125
this is not a pic of my truck nor is it anything i intend to do. it was just the only pic i could find. i was using this pic to ask if the snubber in this pic was wrong. which was answered "yes its wrong". if youve read this thread youd know my bars are vehicle specific. the only problem i HAD was the bars being angle down a bit. thats because im lower with drop leafs. i bought traction bars wedges to fix that issue.

[1982SDime]

I have traction bars and drop leafs on my I wouldn't buy wedges I made my and drilled holes for the u-bolts

[12sws27]

i thought about making my own but i didnt have way to cut a piece of aluminum at an angle like that. trust me i didnt want to pay 57 bucks for a stupid 4* wedge. but oh well.

[spideyjected]

Are they on now Scott?

[Majormotion53]

this is not a pic of my truck nor is it anything i intend to do. it was just the only pic i could find. i was using this pic to ask if the snubber in this pic was wrong. which was answered "yes its wrong". if youve read this thread youd know my bars are vehicle specific. the only problem i HAD was the bars being angle down a bit. thats because im lower with drop leafs. i bought traction bars wedges to fix that issue.

These bars got you going huh. I Ment that guy that done it. So did the wedges work? Cheaper way to stop wheel hop is by clamping the leafs.

[12sws27]

Are they on now Scott?
no, i ran in to some problems that ill post in a bit. once i upload some pics to photobucket.


These bars got you going huh. I Ment that guy that done it. So did the wedges work? Cheaper way to stop wheel hop is by clamping the leafs.
yeah they do. it took 3mos. just to get them. first place i ordered them from never got them for me. i waited 2mos. for the to. i cancelled that order and got a refund. then ordered them from Jegs and FedX lost them. so they sent me another set. sorry for gettin snappy. i just didnt want anyone thinking that hacked up crap was mine or what i had planned.

wedges didnt work they actully made it worse. funny thing is, for every 1 person that told me they wouldnt work, 2 people said they would. i even seen a pic of the same bars on a 1st gen blazer with a 6in drop in the back. and they looked fine. so i bought them. ive heard about clamping the leafs but wanted to go this route thinking i would get better traction. i wish i could afford slidealinks but i just cant do it now.

heres i pic of the same bars working on a lower truck than mine:

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/753000-753999/753520_74_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/753000-753999/753520_10_full.jpg

[bespurcell]

That sux Scott.

[12sws27]

ok, this is what they look like:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/slapper%20plans/tractionbars010.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/slapper%20plans/tractionbars011.jpg
if i decide to make these work i think i still can. i would have to get a block of aluminum, at least 2" thick. i would prefer it be wide enough so i can drill holes to run the u bolts through it. so it would be secure. i guess i could just get drop blocks to bring the bars down but IDK. id feel better if they were secured by the u bolts.

[bespurcell]

Have you tried driving it like that?

[12sws27]

Have you tried driving it like that?
no. the bars stop it from sitting all the way down. the frame is resting on them.

[12sws27]

im sure i can make these work. you guys think i should or try to get a refund (if i can) and do the cheap leaf clamp or stiffner thing? till i can afford caltracs or slide-a-links. i plan on doing these one day any how.

[Bone Crusher]

you guys think i should or try to get a refund


Might take you 4 months to get a refund.....LOL :D

[12sws27]

Might take you 4 months to get a refund.....LOL :D
i wouldn't be surprised at all. i think im just gonna make them fit. guys are running around with 4" blocks on top of the leafs. why wouldn't it be fine with 2" blocks under them? especially if the u bolts go through the blocks.

['94 Big Blaze]

im sure i can make these work. you guys think i should or try to get a refund (if i can) and do the cheap leaf clamp or stiffner thing? till i can afford caltracs or slide-a-links. i plan on doing these one day any how.

hmmm...somebody told ya early on that they wouldint work out well for ya...

but damn if i can remember who....:D

[12sws27]

oh... beleive me, they'll work. and you said they wouldnt stop wheel hop. which i havent the slightess notion where you got that idea from.

[spideyjected]

YOU can DO it Scott!

[87wildside]

Did you try turning the shims the opposite way?

In the second pic I can see the spring arching up.

[12sws27]

Did you try turning the shims the opposite way?

In the second pic I can see the spring arching up.
yeah i thought about that, and it would give me room. but the bars would be angled down then. I could of rigged them up that day and made them work. but itd of been half assed. I want them to be either angled up a bit or level with the ground. the way i see it is, there made for stock height. so since my rear end is 3" higher, bringing the bars down should make them work. they'd be closer to the ground but still not as close as some universal ones ive seen on stock height car and trucks. im gonna search for blocks of aluminum tonight on the net to see how much a 2" thick block thats 6" x 5 1/2" would cost. but since i need longer ubolts anyway i might just order some 2" drop blocks that come with the u bolts. then ill have the 4* wedges welded to the blocks. that way the bolts will secure it all so none of it moves. understand?

[bespurcell]

yeah i thought about that, and it would give me room. but the bars would be angled down then. i could of rigged them up that day and made them work. but itd of been half assed. im want them to be either angled up a bit or level with the frame. the way i see it is, there made for stock height. so since my rear end is 3" higher, bringing the bars down should make them work. they'd be closer to the ground but still not as close as some universal ones ive seen on stock height car and trucks. im gonna search for blocks of aluminum tonight on the net to see how much a 2'thick block thats 6" x 5 1/2" would cost. but since i need longer ubolts anyway i might just order some 2" drop blocks that come with the u bolts. then ill have the 4* wedges welded to the blocks. that way the bolts will secure it all so none of it moves. understand?
Sounds like a good idea. I bought my 2" drop blocks from autozone (aluminum) for about $35.

[Majormotion53]

hmmm...somebody told ya early on that they wouldint work out well for ya...

but damn if i can remember who....:D

I hate to tell you this thier not going to work if you do all that stuff. Why is it so important to have them? If I remember you said you weren't racing the truck. I'd just get my money back.

[12sws27]

I hate to tell you this thier not going to work if you do all that stuff. Why is it so important to have them? If I remember you said you weren't racing the truck. I'd just get my money back.

well, this is the way i see it. i thought about sending them back. but the damn things weigh 32lbs. so if i get a refund, i still end up losing. because of the shipping costs. ill get the $120 back for the bars, but lose on the shipping i payed to get them here, plus what ill pay to ship them back. that id guess, will be like a $60-$70 or more of a loss. if i never seen that pic of that 1st gen blazer, i probably wouldn't of insisted on getting them. but i did, and now i got them. and i still believe i can make them work.
there so important to me because i have terrible wheel hop. thats with out my blower. with it, its even worse. i can feel the axle wrap when I break traction going in to second gear. so i gotta do something. i heard about the clamps before and was told that they were only good for lasting about 6mos. so that wouldn't be a permanent fix.
maybe your right and im wrong, but I've said, why i think it would work. now you give me a good reason they wont. if i wouldn't of already had them, i probably would of taken Jay's advice. but i already had them.
in my first post i was way off. the angle isn't the problem. its that they sit to close to the frame since my rear end is higher up, do to the drop. i wish i would of thought of that before, but opps, i didn't.
then there's always the reason of, if i do get them to fit, then there's a thread on how to make slappers work on a dropped Blazer. oh and im a stubborn mother ****er that, doesn't like being doubted. so if im right then.... well will just have to see if i can pull it off dont we?

[Majormotion53]

ok, this is what they look like:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/slapper%20plans/tractionbars010.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/slapper%20plans/tractionbars011.jpg
if i decide to make these work i think i still can. i would have to get a block of aluminum, at least 2" thick. i would prefer it be wide enough so i can drill holes to run the u bolts through it. so it would be secure. i guess i could just get drop blocks to bring the bars down but IDK. id feel better if they were secured by the u bolts. This lower pic reminds me of the ones my cuz built 4 my 65 GT Stang. Copy of the 1s u have. # 1 thing this is spring wrap-up. What ever u do u have 2 get read of this. WE had 2 shim those 2 but car was stock hight.

[Mikz86TA]

Somehow I never saw the picture B4.

What do you have in terms of lowering? Blocks, de-arched sprigs?
Does the snubber thats suposed to be on there line up with the front leaf eyelet...if it were able to go in?
Why are the springs looking arched upwards?

[12sws27]

Somehow I never saw the picture B4.

What do you have in terms of lowering? Blocks, de-arched sprigs?
Does the snubber thats supposed to be on there line up with the front leaf eyelet...if it were able to go in?
Why are the springs looking arched upwards?
belltech drop leafs

yes, the snubber lines up. there's 3 different holes to chose from. the 3rd hole, from the front of the bar lines up perfectly.

idk. thats just how they are. thats the reason i have wheel hop so bad. i never had a problem with axle wrap till i put them on.

[12sws27]

I had the drop leaves in mine. Had to throw the stock ones back on and use blocks. The Beltech's made for a nice drop, but mine seemed like they were two weak.
i agree. i think they're very weak. before i bought them i assumed they'd be stiffer. just de-arched. i was wrong.

[Mikz86TA]

I think I know the answer to your issue.
1. Sell those leafs.
2. Keep the trac bars....the money for shipping and the PITA was enough already to deal with on those.
3. Either get blocks for the stock leafs to the desired drop OR buy ZQ8 leafs and blocks for the desired drop.

Thats what Id do. You may not have as much hop with just the stock leafs (as opposed to the BellTechs) but Im sure you will have some...plus the added power of the SC to boot.

[spideyjected]

There, way to be helpful! How much use is "It's not gonna work"? Solutions are better than "It won't work".

[12sws27]

I think I know the answer to your issue.
1. Sell those leafs.
2. Keep the trac bars....the money for shipping and the PITA was enough already to deal with on those.
3. Either get blocks for the stock leafs to the desired drop OR buy ZQ8 leafs and blocks for the desired drop.

Thats what Id do. You may not have as much hop with just the stock leafs (as opposed to the BellTechs) but Im sure you will have some...plus the added power of the SC to boot.

you know. i think that would work. i was thinking about it the other day. cuz the stock leaf are arched. so they would remain in the stock location. its the blocks that raise the rear-end. which is different than the bell-techs. since there de-arched. they run pretty muck level with the frame. now that brings me to think about another reason i should of kept my factor leafs. i through them in a dumpster 2yrs ago cuz i had no place ti store them. i think later on down the road ill look for some ZQ8 leafs and blocks and do it that way. sooner or later im gonna get spindles and switch my 3" coils for 1". cuz i hate the LCA hitting the frame. but thats much later. if i do it. i wish i would of joined the planet back then. id of dropped my truck differently. theres so many things id go differently about on this truck if i had it to do over again.

[12sws27]

well i picked up a 2"drop block kit from autozone today. it was about $25.
lets see if i can get them on and see how it works tomorrow.

[Cameo_S10]

Good luck man! I hope it all comes together.;) You can doooo itttt.

[12sws27]

well i picked up a 2"drop block kit from autozone today. it was about $25.
lets see if i can get them on and see how it works tomorrow.
thx Ray.
ok... maybe ill get the time tomorrow then. lol

[12sws27]

well today i tried then drop block thing with the block kit from autozone. the U-bolts were to wide so i returned them. I'm going to go head and order a block kit from JTR. im sure their kit comes with the right U-bolts. so its gonna take a bit longer than i thought. i dont need those $50 4* angle wedges i bought from summit so ill be getting a refund on those as well. so i should have less (or the same amount of) money into it than i do now.

[12sws27]

well, this is taking a bit longer than i espected. but im not in a hurry now, since i just took my S/C off and put it in a box to send back to Al so he can fix the POS again.
I just found some Bell-tech drop blocks on another forum. I bought them for $20 so when ever they get here ill put the Traction bars on.

[Mikz86TA]

Are you adding that to the existing leafs or going back to stock leafs?

[12sws27]

Are you adding that to the existing leafs or going back to stock leafs?
Im going to put them between the leaf and tracton bar. to lower the bar down. im thinking of getting ZQ8 leafs later on. how much do they lower the rear?

[12sws27]

well i got the blocks in the mail. But I'm trying to buy a 2dr Jimmy though to be my project instead of this heavy ass 4dr. so I dont think I'm even gonna put them on the 4dr I have now. The jimmy isn't lowered yet so they'll go right on. Although it probably wont have wheel hop since its not dropped. when i do lower the Jimmy im gonna go with zq8 leafs and drop blocks. they should fit if its dropped like that. I still kinda tempted to throw them on just cuz it was said "it couldn't be done". I'm gonna have my hands full already though with fixing this Jimmy and swapping s/c and other stuff to it and reverting my 4dr back to its original state (engine and trans wise)

[12sws27]

i tryed to get the bars to work right by blocking them lower with 2" blocks. It wont work. Even if it did the bars hang lower then the bottom of the rim lip. so it'd be dangerous. If i lowered the bars down with 3" blocks, I could get enough space for the snubbers, but it'd be even more dangerous. then they'll be to close to the ground and would hit on all sorts of stuff. so now i know. Any one wanna buy some Lakewoods? :(

[12sws27]

You know what? This is probably getting a bit on the obsessive side but, I tried using the 4* shims to bring them down is the front and it was way to much. I bet a 2* shim would work. Also if a guy had 17" rims or better then the rim lip would be lower than the bottom of the Trac. bars. That would take away the risk of then acting like death ski's if you ever had a rear tire blow out. Maybe I'll keep them. LOL! AhHHH!! IM losing it!

[Cameo_S10]

I haven't give up hope on you getting them to work or atleast on there. LOL:D

[12sws27]

I haven't give up hope on you getting them to work or atleast on there. LOL:D
oh, i got them on there alright.... 4X! on off on off on off!
I doubted I would be able to return them since I cut one of the snubbers.
I was wrong, I just got off the phone with Jegs and they'll take them back and give me an exchange or store credit. I'm starting to think losing 50 bucks on shipping isnt so bad.

[Cameo_S10]

oh, i got them on there alright.... 4X! on off on off on off!
I doubted I would be able to return them since I cut one of the snubbers.
I was wrong, I just got off the phone with Jegs and they'll take them back and give me an exchange or store credit. I'm starting to think losing 50 bucks on shipping isnt so bad.

LMAO!:D

[the fabricator]

to me it looks like the traction bars are just plain to long for your application.

one of two things can be done to fix this....

1. cut them down shorter and drill a new a new snubber hole
2. buy some new traction bars from autozone for $30

i have seen traction bars as short as one foot long. plus....you ARE suppose to remove your old leaf spring shackle. the bracket that sandwhiches your axle and leaf spring together. but it will work with it on there also...may have alignment issues

i bought some for my 67mustang and it diffently helped alot. every time i took a hard launch in it i had severe wheel hop that caused me to loose traction. after installing the chrome ones from autozone 95% of my wheel hop is gone. :cool:

[Mikz86TA]

I think with stock leaf springs and use a block to lower it, youd be OK. I dont think slapper bars will work with the de-arched lowering leafs or with one lowered more than 2" out back. Otherwise your too low to the ground.

[87wildside]

to me it looks like the traction bars are just plain to long for your application.

one of two things can be done to fix this....

1. cut them down shorter and drill a new a new snubber hole


i have seen traction bars as short as one foot long. plus....you ARE suppose to remove your old leaf spring shackle. the bracket that sandwhiches your axle and leaf spring together. but it will work with it on there also...may have alignment issuesWhat? The snubber lines up with the spring eye.
Why remove the shackle? What would hold the springs? Or the lower shock mount?

The whole point of traction bars is to prevent axle wrap. Axle wrap is typically between the spring eye and the second leaf. The snubber must be under the spring eye or other object solidly mounted to the frame.

[Majormotion53]

I just got off the phone with Jegs and they'll take them back and give me an exchange or store credit. I'm starting to think losing 50 bucks on shipping isnt so bad.

Won't they work on the other truck your getting?

[12sws27]

I think with stock leaf springs and use a block to lower it, youd be OK. I dont think slapper bars will work with the de-arched lowering leafs or with one lowered more than 2" out back. Otherwise your too low to the ground.
Exactly Mike.

Won't they work on the other truck your getting?
Yeah they will, untill i get around to lowering it. My Blazer b4 I lowered it didnt have wheel hop. I bet this 98 i wanna get wont either. I'm just gonna put those leaf helpers on both vehicles. That's untill I can afford slide-a-links for the 98. Im gonna leave this 4dr '00 stock, power wise atleast.

[the fabricator]

What? The snubber lines up with the spring eye.
Why remove the shackle? What would hold the springs? Or the lower shock mount?


the traction bars hold the leaf spring to the rear end. some traction bars have shock mounts welded on them. :rolleyes:

yes i know the snubber lines up with the spring eye but from what ive read i thought he didnt want it that close to the frame....maybe i missread the 3 pages :shake_125

what ive mention has been done on hot rods for years....by myself and people i know. just relaying the info:cool:

[12sws27]

There's 3 holes in the frt of the bars for the snubber. the the farthest one from the tip of the bars is under the spring eye. I could cut it shorter so it doesn't hit the frame. but there still leaves little room for a snubber. about a 1/4". The snubbers the bars came with cant be cut that short. if i angle the bars down with 2* shims instead of the 4* one i tried, I might have enough space 4 a snubber, BUT there's always the problem of them being unsafe with 15" rims (see pics below) If i happen to get a blow out or lose air suddenly in the rear tires Ill be skiing on the bars. Plus it just kinda looks retarded.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/TracBarsIgnBox002.jpg?t=1213675694
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/TracBarsIgnBox003.jpg?t=1213675739

[Mikz86TA]

Not to get off track, but whats the hole on the inner rear side for?

Where are your shims? I see the one between the axle and the top of the leaf.

[12sws27]

Not to get off track, but whats the hole on the inner rear side for?
That's the shock mount



Where are your shims?
I didnt have them on in that pic. when i had it in the front of the bar was about 2" from the ground


I see the one between the axle and the top of the leaf.
thats the JTR axle alignment shim

[Hammer Head]

Not to get off track, but whats the hole on the inner rear side for?


x2, that's the shock mount.

[Mikz86TA]

Ahh. Did'nt realize that.....IM FIRED!!

[the fabricator]

its hard to tell but is those last to pictures with your truck in the air>?

i think it is....


can we see some pictures of the truck on the ground....i would like to see picture of the leaf springs in the same direction you have the last two just on the ground so we can see the distance between the leaf spring and bar

[12sws27]

its hard to tell but is those last to pictures with your truck in the air>?

i think it is....


can we see some pictures of the truck on the ground....i would like to see picture of the leaf springs in the same direction you have the last two just on the ground so we can see the distance between the leaf spring and bar
in the pics, it is in the air. when i added the bars without the 2" blocks the first time, it lifted the truck. when i added the 2" blocks, the truck sat all the way down like it should but there was only a 1/4" gap between the bar and spring eye. The front of the bars just barely touched the frame. sorry no pics. The bars or packed up and ready to ship off.

[12sws27]

I shipped them god forsaken PITA bars back to JEGS! I was surprised it only cost $28 to ship. I still end up losing like $50 bucks on them. oh well, water under the bridge. I went to the local auto parts store and bought some leaf helpers and bolted those on. They seemed to of helped. I also shipped my Jammer back to Al, so I cant really put them to the test till i get it back.

[12sws27]

See, you were told they wouldn't work
I hates you so much :crying:

[87wildside]

You could have bought 18" rims.

[12sws27]

2*shims and 18" rims...... hmmmm... i still think theyll work. lol Im trying to start all over with a 2dr Jimmy but I was supposed to get a loan from my old man. Doesnt look like its gonna happen though. So now im trying to scrape up a grand for a truck im sure is worth 2500.

[LEADFOOT]

I know.....I'm bringing this post back from the dead. hahahahaha.

Stumbled across this thread and thought i should add my experience.

Just wanted to say that 4 years ago everyone at Lakewood and Summit and Jegs told me the Lakewood traction bars for the s10 would not fit my blazer, absolutly not they said. I proved them all wrong with 2* wedges, really short snubbers from ES and removing the bottom spring (shortest spring). I think it is some kind of load limiting spring or some shiz like that. This aint no p/u, i dont need that spring. Wheel hop wasnt that big of an issue to start with. It happened every now and then. My issue for the need of traction bars was more to keep pinion angle in check. They sure did improve traction too. After putting them on it was even harder to powerbrake.

Looking into the others now simply for ride comfort and weight. CE told me what to measure to see if the slide a links will fit. From center of base plate to center of spring eye is 25". CE says it needs to be 25.5". I think I can work around that.

[neo71665]

Slapper bars are worthless just build some cal trac rip offs.


http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html