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I have been doing alot of reading and thinking of the ideal vehicle for me. When I had my s10 Blazer. I enjoyed it. I was just limited what I could do. i now have a built up K5. It is nice but I do not like how big the body is. Plus any trail are annoying because they sized more for jeeps. So it is like shoving a fat lady in a prom dress. The s10 has a better body size for trails and overall function I like. I took this idea a little futher and came up with this.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd257/K0045/Misc/chevrolet-blazer-s-10-4-door-1991.gif?t=1211461810
I call it Project Blizzard. My brother thought it look like and avalanche and its a Blazer so there you go. :D
I am wanting to make the rear cargo area a truck bed that way I have more useage out of it. I was always limited on what could fit by the opening in my old s10. I was also thinking of puting a s10 truck tailgate for the rear. I am wanitng to retain the fold down rear bench seat, so if I need to I can fold it down to have a flat deck for dry storage.
After this is done. I have not decided to do a SAS on the s10 or take the body and put it on my k5 frame.
My k5 has 4.5" lift with Bilstein 5150 shocks. Drive train is: Throttle body 350, 350 tranny. it also has a twin stick 203, but I have a fresh 205 siting ready to swap out. Then this is followed by a dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear with detreiot locker. 4:10 geared.
Any ideas would be great. A place to do this and welding skills would be great. I am a good designer and engineer, but lack welding skills. Thanks yall
01blzxtreme
05-22-08, 10:21 AM
yeah ive seen those around here where i live well ive only seen 2 different ones....ill see if i can find some pics....good luck on the build
'94 Big Blaze
05-22-08, 10:26 AM
yea it would be cool...we've already got somebody here that's building one...
look for " blazelanche " in the blazer forum
01blzxtreme
05-22-08, 10:35 AM
http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12469
kinda like that but on the first gen
01blzxtreme
05-22-08, 10:39 AM
and what do you know hahah some guy on here already did what you wanted maybe you can ask him heres the thread theres some pics on page 5
http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12469
heres another link to a 2nd gen
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/615477
'94 Big Blaze
05-22-08, 10:47 AM
and what do you know hahah some guy on here already did what you wanted maybe you can ask him heres the thread theres some pics on page 5
http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12469
heres another link to a 2nd gen
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/615477 ahh you learn fast grasshoppa...
01blzxtreme
05-22-08, 10:51 AM
ahh you learn fast grasshoppa...
hahah thanks bro...well i use another local forum and this one is almost exact just minor differences....btw im only 19 so theres still alot to learn lol
I do not know how I missed those. Mine I am wanting to go straight down behind the seat and square up the bed. I got the idea from a freinds Cherokee and it looks nice. Well I hope my name is ok and not steeling it. i really like it. :D
I guess I have some more reading to do. Thanks
I was alos inspired by a buddy of mine that had a tre fall on the rear of his zr2 and built this:
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/81k5guy/100_0953.jpg
I got alot of my rear wall build and bed rail idea in good order. I even have a good idea for the rear glass. I am wating to use a large size pop up sunroof. That way it also can be a vent and pop it out like the old side glasses on mini vans. I am wanting to use 1/2" square tubing to do my frame work then a heat and sound deading insulation. APlatic paneling for the inside and a thick metal skin for the bed side.
The sides of the bed will be squared up the same way with a 1/8" or 1/4" plate for the top. Then put some of the pop out bed anchors and herculine the entire bed.
You'll probably get yours done before me. With 3 kids I only get a few hours here and there to work on it! So much for original. Now I'll have to sell Blazelanche and think up another project:o(
No contiue with yours I like how it is going. Mine is not going to going far. i do not even have an s10 and can nto really afford one :p
Here is the sketch of the framing set up. The bold black lines are to represent the 1/2" square tubing
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd257/K0045/Misc/Blizzardbed.jpg
I was just giving you a hard time! FYI you actually NEED to have the rear set back somewhat from the rear of the doors or else the back seat passengers get no headroom.
I thought about that. i am wanting about half inch or so. I am not concern for the peeps in the back that much. My picture is a little skeuded to the front but it is design to be more vetical and that will give more head room thanks for the insight.
I am trying to think. I have read over the lift and tire size. I am wanting to run my military 37" hummer tires. I do not want to do a ton of hacking, so how much lift you think my k5 should have to work. It has a 4.5" suspension and 1" body which does not matter for the body swap. Any ideas would be great. Thanks
Hammer Head
05-23-08, 12:48 AM
Did you already discuss that a 4 door s10 blazer has a longer wheelbase but it still isn't as long as a K5 blazer's wheelbase so the K5's frame would need to be shortened a few inches? That is the plan, right.. to put an s10 blazer, 4 dr onto a K5's frame & make an avalanche looking thing out of it? If not.. please disreguard previous comment.
Actually since the lanching would be taking place you could just lengthen the box a bit and take care of the wheelbase issue I'd think.
If everything I read is correct there is less than 1" difference in wheelbase.
K5: Wheel base=106.5" Length= 184.8"
S10: Wheel Base=107" Length=176.8"
I am thinking of shifting it forward so I do not have to do much trim around the back doors. I would just be trim more fenders. As for the frame sticking out on both ends it is actually going to help out.
In the front it is going to give me the room to run my winch and build my bumper around it. This will make things stronger and easier. I can use the k5 mounting point and just taper it back to tie into the s10 body lines.
The rear is going to be similar but instead of a winch I am going to have a small storage box between the bumper and body and frame rails. Then on the outside of the frame rails taper back to the body lines like the front. This is where tow straps, tie down bungees, and other odds and ends will be.
I am running 37s with only a 2" suspension lift, so if you have a 4.5" suspension lift, you'll have plenty of clearance.
If you don't move the motor forward, not only will the frame stick way out in the front, but the front axle will be at least 6" or more forward from the center of the wheel well, which will put the rear axle too far forward as well... unless you relocate the rear axle.
The way mine is set up now (motor moved 4" forward), I could fit my 4 door Blazer on there perfectly.... I had to hack up the box on my Baja to get it to work in the rear.
fastSdime
05-23-08, 10:15 AM
Sounds like a great project. Keep us informed.
I am running 37s with only a 2" suspension lift, so if you have a 4.5" suspension lift, you'll have plenty of clearance.
If you don't move the motor forward, not only will the frame stick way out in the front, but the front axle will be at least 6" or more forward from the center of the wheel well, which will put the rear axle too far forward as well... unless you relocate the rear axle.
The way mine is set up now (motor moved 4" forward), I could fit my 4 door Blazer on there perfectly.... I had to hack up the box on my Baja to get it to work in the rear.
I do not know how the 4" forward changes the 6" difference, but I will definitely keep it in mind. my concern about moving the engine is the clearence between the oil pan and the Dana 60 pumpkin area. Also the radaitor and electric fan clearence with the engine?
However if I do move the enigine foward then I could put the 700r4 and it should help with the rear drivshaft length. I think it extends out 2 or 3".
Do you have any pics of your 4 dr blazer on k5?
Thanks so much all this info and ideas are great, you know measure twice cut once. If I do all this reserach and catch the hic up before they happen I should be good.
I think the sterring shaft part has been solve using the wagoneer or comanchee duall u joint sterring column that the best solution correct?
fastSdime
05-24-08, 01:43 PM
Would it be easier to build your own frame and just move everything to where you need it?
I do not know how the 4" forward changes the 6" difference, but I will definitely keep it in mind. my concern about moving the engine is the clearence between the oil pan and the Dana 60 pumpkin area. Also the radaitor and electric fan clearence with the engine?
However if I do move the enigine foward then I could put the 700r4 and it should help with the rear drivshaft length. I think it extends out 2 or 3".
Do you have any pics of your 4 dr blazer on k5?
Thanks so much all this info and ideas are great, you know measure twice cut once. If I do all this reserach and catch the hic up before they happen I should be good.
I think the sterring shaft part has been solve using the wagoneer or comanchee duall u joint sterring column that the best solution correct?
If I didn't move the motor forward, I wouldn't have been able to move the cab any father forward, which would have left the front axle almost 6" too far forward (IMO). With the suspension lift, I would assume you'd have plenty of clearance on that oil pan, but then I don't know how much larger a Dana 60 is compared with my Dana 44. My radiator is not in the core, it is in regular place with plently of room for slim line electric fans (Flex-a-lite 240 or 220 - don't remember the number). The 700R4 would make up for moving the motor forward, it is 3-4" longer. I had thought about doing that as well, but I didn't want to buy a 700R4 at the time.
My 4 door isn't on the K5 frame... I was just thinking wheelbase-wise it would have fit better than my reg cab... on my reg cab, the rear axle was too far forward, (despite moving the cab up as far as possible, thanks to moving the motor up), so I had to trim the box and run the fender flares to cover it.
I used a steering shaft out of a Jeep Comanchee... early 80s, I think. Another thing there though... if I had left the motor where it was, which would mean the cab would have been farther back, the steering shaft would have been too short.
Yeah, measure twice, cut once... there were times on my project that I felt I should have thought a little more about things... like maybe trying to move the cab even farther forward so I wouldn't have had to cut up my box so much....
I might have to hold off on this project until I can do alot more thinking and calculating cost and whats going to work. I have some great Ideas for the mounts to build That will hopefully means I will not have to cut or weld on new mounts. The engine placement Is an issue I need to think more. I want to keep my big radiator. It came from a truck with a 454. I think it is a 4 core then I have the ford tarus fans behind it. The way it is now not a problem to move it forward. I am still wondering about the clearence of the axle. I like the idea of a detached resivor for the oil with a small pump. It would allow the oil to get cooler. It is just an idea.
01blzxtreme
05-27-08, 03:25 PM
yes sir...this is gonna take a bit of money and a good planed prject...
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