fatmat sound deadner?? vs dynamat$$$??

[bvr775]

Ok most of us have used dynamat or atleast walk out of the sound shop in discust over the price of it.yea it's good stuff alright, but not worth 40 bux for 4ft sheet and it weighs a ton if you do a whole car.
So i figered their has to be something else. I found something that is the same, but not as as heavy. Hopefully it's as good.
it's called fatmat (http://www.fatmat.com/) . they offer samples. What i'm wanting to do here is start a small reseach group to find out if it is as good as dynamat. I've ordered my sample (http://www.fatmat.com/samples/index.htm) and am waiting eagerly to start abuseing it.

consider a trunk kit for fatmat is 38.99 and it comes with the roller and knife. a trunk kit for dynamat is 100-140 bux depending on where you get it and it comes with...well...a roll of dynamat.
this would be a worthy exsperiment

[XxInFaxX]

let us know about your finds.

[Minitrucker4lyfe]

I have talked to people that say the Fatmax is just as good if not better than dynomat but I haven't used it yet personally. I think thats what I'm going to use on my truck though.

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

I've used VB2 in the past -- it's an asphalt-based sound deadener that is 50 times better than Dynamat and costs a little cheaper. No heating and no rolling -- just peel and stick.

[LEADFOOT]

Sounds good. I'll give it a try. But a 6"X6" square sample, what the hell are ya gonna do with that? I'm gonna order the sample just to see what its like.

[blazen]

i've been looking for some sound deadner to. but haveing a blazer means I need alot. and most of the stuff is so expensive.

[bvr775]

My consern is I live in a super hot climate in the summer and we have problem with deadner sliding down verticle surfaces and makeing a mess(brown bread for instance) I'm slap the fatmat on a peise of metal and hit the outher side with a torch and see how hot it has to be before it slides down(even dynamat failed this exsperiment at 231*)

[Matt]

I used two rolls of Raammat ( http://www.raamaudio.com/products.htm )for my entire 2-dr blazer, with enough to do the driver/passener floorpans and doors twice. It was about 1/10 the price of Dynamat extreme (did the whole truck for the price of doing my doors with Dynamat extreme, but i got it at the $99 a 63 sq ft roll price) and atleast twice as effictive.

Heres a good link with a few options listed with costs/thicknesses right away
http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=40;t=008863

[T Man]

We have some stuff at our store, I dont remember what it is, but I will look into it. It is cheeper than dynamat, so we can make a better proffit off of it. It is pretty good though.

[chevybrat]

Dynomat is indeed expensive but with my new sound system i'm rattling everything lose :D and it's driving me nuts....

The two i've noticed the most are the extended door by the pop out window and also more recently, the driver door panel(not quite sure the specific area but seems to be the smaller panel that fits over the power locks/windows buttons). That one's driving me nuts, lol, doesn't matter how loud I turn the system up, the rattle over-powers. I would probably only be doing both front doors and then the extended door, so, I shouldn't need too much. Whatever is cheap and affective.

I see this is an older thread. Any new reccomendations? What do you all use? And how effective is it? Thanks all. :)

[Mikz86TA]

On 98-ups there are 3 major contributors to noinse in the door. First is actually on the outside. The rubber felt that clips onto the bottom of the window outside is notorious for coming loose. Some trucks in exagerated tamperature areas you can see it warping. Even my truck only a year old had the vibration problem there. I removed it, placed 4 spacedpeices of 3M (red) double sided tape on the metal with the felt off (heated the sticky and pressed it on) then I heated the other side just prior to re-installing the felt. Had to be easy and finessse it over. Then pressed against it in the 3M tape spots to ahrere it. The tape acts as a cushion and fills the small gap where it vibrates. Second is the metal rods in the door behind the panel. Sometimes there is ebough flex in them to allow them to tap on the inner door shin. Thin foam padding in a couple of the long-run problem areas will help that. Last is just door skin flexing. I removed the entire plactic weather sheild, lock rods and pulled back all the wiring. Then I laid over Dynamat Xtreme. This is really time consuming to do it right. You have to punch for the holes as you lay it, so your wiring holders, door rod holders, and screw holes are usable again. I lost some of my pics from it. But here is one that I did find. Its halfway done pic which will show before and after roughly. Notice properly installed the Dynamat looks tight, conforms to all the skin curves and even embossed numbers in the metal, the holes re-punched for the roor trim, the lock rod plastic slider/holder is re-installed over the DM, and the bolts repunched through. Each door toom me about 1 hour. A novice would take much longer. But the same result can be acheived with patience and a little thought. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Truck/Audio/S10-Dynamat2.jpg

[Mikz86TA]

Also notice my Power Accy harness laid over the door front. I cut a slit for it when I got there for a seemless look of the wires popping through it. There are push-pin type holders on the wiring too. Basically i measure and cut the form in the largest section I have. ( I used the Trunk Kit with I believe 5 strips. The strip at the rear is just short of a complete strip.) Then I peeled back the corner and started laying it on, heating and rollering it tight. I pull of the backing as I go, NOT all at once. Also, its a good idea to mark next to a hole that is used (like door panel clips, attachment bolts, cutouts fot lock handle, harness pin holes, etc.). When you come up to ont of these holes while laying the DM on, use a screwdriver or center punch to peirce that hole at that time. This will save you ALOT of time later on when reassembling. Its a PITA trying to find a hole under the DM! Trust me on this. Ive been doing this a long time and it took me once to figure out that was no fun at all! =)

[chevybrat]

lol sounds like more work than I thought it was going to be. Fun fun. Maybe I can bribe my dad into assisting me again. He's starting to dread seeing me pull up because I always want his help with something haha :D

That fatmat stuff doesn't look too bad actually. Priced more affordable too. Anybody have hands on experience with it? I know Dynamat is good stuff so if I don't get any better suggestions i'm sure that's what I'll go with when I can afford it.

[firefighter]

You can also try lizard skin spray on stuff.


http://www.lizardskin.com/index.php

it's exspensive though. I don't know how heavy it is though. I think the blizazer might get gutted sprayed and an upgraded interior.

[00S104.3]

I've been using Accumat hyperflex (made by Scoche) and it seems really nice and easy to apply. So far I have done both doors, the rear wall of the cab and the floor behind the rear seats. You can get 8 24"x27" sheets for around $100-$140 depending on where you get it. I don't know if that is cheap or not but now that i've started using it I won't be able to use anything else because I'm weird like that. http://www.freesmileys.org/emo/whacky110.gif (http://www.freesmileys.org)

Here are a couple pics of the Accumat on the back of my cab...
http://i16.tinypic.com/4t6z312.jpg
http://i4.tinypic.com/4zn4rw7.jpg

[Mikz86TA]

Yeah, I did the back wall too. Mines a Reg cab with the enclosure back there, so not much you can hear anyways in that area. But I did do the roof when I had the headliner out doing the overhead console install. That helped out alot especially when it rains. No ping, ping of the drops anymore. It seems the inside temp dropped too.

[00S104.3]

Yeah, I did the back wall too. Mines a Reg cab with the enclosure back there, so not much you can hear anyways in that area. But I did do the roof when I had the headliner out doing the overhead console install. That helped out alot especially when it rains. No ping, ping of the drops anymore. It seems the inside temp dropped too.

I love the sound of rain on the roof when i'm driving in the rain, but I will eventually stick sound deadener up there. I wish I had added sound deadener to the firewall when I had the dash out changing the heater core.