Wynjammer?

[firefighter]

Whats the deal good, bad, ugly. Never heard of them. Any limitations? Tell me more the S/C site doesn't tell much.

[OBI WAN]

Go back to the main forum page. Preferred vendor area there is a whole complete detailed everything with these there!!

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

Here is a good start for ya:

http://www.sicgmtrucks.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1108

If you have any other questions, feel free to post up!

IMHO, the Wynjammer is the best of the kits available for the S-Series.

[Finkle]

I Heard from a friend that a cog drive system is very hard on the crank. Now is this true?? Would i be better of with a jammer than something else?

I was talking to Al and i told him that i had JBA headers but they werent ceramic coated, he told me that they are probably producing more heat than my stock ones were cuz all the heat sheilds are gona and that he recammends that i either wrap them or get them coated. is that true too?
is there anything else i would have to do my truck to put a supercharger on it?
thx for all input

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

A cog drive system is no harder on the crank than a gear-driven S/C (Vortech) or an internal-belt driven S/C (Powerdyne). I don't know what made your friend come to that conclusion. In fact, I would think the cog drive would be easier on the crank, considering how it is designed.

I've had both the Powerdyne (which I still consider a good S/C) and I've had the Wynjammer (which I consider a BETTER S/C), and I've dealt with Vortechs (which is also a good S/C). Between the Pdyne and the Vortech, you might as well toss a coin -- they each have their advantages and disadvantages and the power output is about the same (give or take a few hp one way or the other). The Wynjammer, running 6 psi, pulls almost twice as hard as the Powerdyne did, running 9 psi. Between the three of them, the Wynjammer is absolutely the best bet. The Vortech includes an ignition (Crane, I believe), but is also the most expensive of the three. The Powerdyne is a basic kit -- it's good for what it is, but not very upgradeable, and is the cheapest of the kits. The Wynjammer is capable of up to 15 psi, so it's definitely upgradeable, and runs only marginally more than the Powerdyne (maybe $100 to $200 more, depending on where you price the Powerdyne).

Of the three, Al at Wynjammer provides the absolute BEST tech support you could ever imagine. I have never had a problem trying to reach him, and he is more than willing to help you and answer questions.

The JBAs, since they are not coated probably ARE producing more heat than the stock manifolds. The stock manifolds are thick iron and the headers are thinner steel -- so extra heat is being transfered into the engine comp. I am not a fan of wrapping headers -- it causes them to rot and rust a LOT faster, get them coated. The only problem is that you'll need to contact Jet Hot (or whomever you are having coat them) -- because I don't know if they can be coated once you've run the motor with them in place. . . I'm not certain on this, which is why I say to contact the coating company. But, YES, you want something on there to reduce the heat they produce.

Anything else? Well, the sky is the limit -- it depends on what other mods you already have in place. Headers, igniton, cat-back, gauges, e-fan, etc. Basically, anything that can get you more power is a good idea. As far as what you NEED in order to install the S/C? ABSOLUTELY NOTHING.

[Finkle]

thanks you very much man, uve been more then helpful
i guess its just a matter of time till i get the supercharger?
At what psi do i need to get an intercooler or do i not need one with a a wynnajmmer cuz it runs soo cool.?
another quick q....is threr anything else i can do to reduce the heat without having to pull out my headers. Its a ***** of a job to do. Al told me he had a few more models comin out in the near future but what would be a SAFE PSI to run on a engine with
K&N Intake, 180° Thermostat, Hypertech Power Programmer III, 40 Series Flowmaster Muffler (single in - dual out), Throttle Body Mod, Underdrive Pulleys, Tps Mod, Jba Headers Nickel Coated, Throttle Body Spacer, Line Lock/Roll Control, Short Throw Shifter (33% Reduction), Centreforce Dual Friction Clutch, GM 3.73 Gears, Eaton Clutch Possi, High Flow CAT and i prob for got a few.

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

Normally, an intercooler isn't needed until you get up over 9-10 psi. With as cool of an intake charge as the Wynjammer has, I doubt if you'll need one at all. Anymore, an intercooler isn't so much necessary as it is for "awe" factor. "OOh, you've got an intercooler!" Whoopee, big deal! I'm not impressed. A lot of people are convinced (wrongfully) that an intercooler will gain you power if you've got some form of forced induction -- and that's a HUGE myth. An intercooler will only gain power if iy is making up for some sort deficiency in the form of forced induction.

Reduce heat without pulling the headers. . . *Shivers* Header wrap. . . Or, a better option would be a cowl hood -- acts to get cooler air under the hood and as a heat escape.

Safe psi? Try the standard 6 psi first -- you can always go with more boost later. Again, it seems the the only reason people go with higher boost is for the "awe factor" -- it's not as impressive sounding to say you're running 6 psi as if you say you're running 8 psi. Big deal. The Vortech and Powerdyne kits both produce a similar amount of hp -- the Powerdyne at 7 psi and the Vortech at 8-9 psi. Well, I'll say it again: I went from a Powerdyne with the "9psi" pulley on it to a Wynjammer that only pushes 6 psi, and I've noticed a difference. The Wynjammer has more acceleration that the Powerdyne EVER had. It's all about efficiency and NOT psi. If a blower produces 15 psi, but is inefficient as all hell, then it's not a good bet -- on the other hand, if a blower produces 6 psi, but is HIGHLY efficient, then it will run circles around the 15 psi unit. So, with that said, go with the kit in its stock form -- you'll be surprised at what 6 psi will do!

Looking over your mod list, though, I will say there are a couple things you ought to do: 1) get rid of that useless hunk of metal under the tb -- throttle body spacers do NO good on a 96+ engine. Well, they make a nice whistling noise, but that's it -- especially with a blower in place -- they only serve to block air flow. 2) the only other suggestion I can make is to put the stock t-stat back in. It will make a little difference, since these engines run optimally at 185-195 degrees.

Question for ya: what brand shifter do you have? B&M or Hurst?

[biglouie_underpressure]

1)cog drive is harder on the crank? this system isn't a crank driven,yes a little more pressure on the bearings if it were.

2)should i intercool my wynjammer? about time you intercool an 10psi kit you'll be lucky to get 6psi (i've tried to intercool a wynjammer)

3)what is your method of fuel? (sds or programmer) if sds the tb spacer won't hurt, it will help the fuel mixture a lil more.


4)If you run more than 7psi i'll say stay with the 180*(my opinion) will help keep the internals a lil cooler if you don't have good fuel in your area.

as far as the hypertech goes it should be fine if you don't go over 6psi and use the wynjammer programmer.Just make sure you use good fuel.Also, i recommend taking those headers off an installing header wrap.

[bvr775]

Question for ya: what brand shifter do you have? B&M or Hurst?

neither i run a either lokar or geinie. The machineing and finish work is so much better that the big companeys and I don't have the breakdown problems after a few hours of use that i've had with every b&m auto shifter I've owned. There not ratchets, but the way they are designed you don't need the ratchet because they'er hard to push through a gear. In outher words you can't go from 1 to 3 without stoping at 2


If I had a standered I would go with hurst though.

[firefighter]

I have a question to go with my question. It seems nobody ever mentions Procharger. Why? I mean I know you gotta go through a tuner "Mach Performance" but I have heard mostly good things about the kits, with the exception of one disgruntled customer. It seemed to me it was mostly his hangup that made the prob though.

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

I have a question to go with my question. It seems nobody ever mentions Procharger. Why? I mean I know you gotta go through a tuner "Mach Performance" but I have heard mostly good things about the kits, with the exception of one disgruntled customer. It seemed to me it was mostly his hangup that made the prob though.
Check out some of the other boards to get the low down on that. It's not ONE person -- it's pretty much EVERY customer MP has.

The kits are garbage. Sure, they produce a decent amount of power, but they are also the most hazardous to your engine. I know of no less than 4 trucks that have had those nightmares installed on them that cracked pistons or warped heads. It's not a "custom" kit -- it's a kit that uses a lot of Procharger parts for an application that they were NOT meant for.

Want to hear about "customer service" -- try this: http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64966&highlight=mach+performance

Frankly, I wouldn't by an oil pan bolt from Mach Performance -- let alone a motor-blowing S/C kit.

[OBI WAN]

I have a question to go with my question. It seems nobody ever mentions Procharger. Why? I mean I know you gotta go through a tuner "Mach Performance" but I have heard mostly good things about the kits, with the exception of one disgruntled customer. It seemed to me it was mostly his hangup that made the prob though.


2 confirmed blown motors and 1-2 more.
No one that has one ever really got it to run right.
Fictious times posted except for one person I could trust.
Shotty workmanship
Rigged to death looking
6 months is average wait time to get one even though you have to pay 90% up front.
Computer flashes that never got done, but billed for.
Disappeared from the forums when those who had troubles began to post.
His best buddy that spent $13K for a motor build and turbo kit after he allready dumped over $5K for a S/C kit would never do business with him again

WHat else would you like to know. I am his #1 detractor and have been sincew the year 2000 when I warned everyboyd he lies through his teeth from what information he was sharing at that time and its gotten worse over the years!!

[Finkle]

yea i got a cowl induction hood too, i would like to be able to get away without having to pull any headers. The thing is i live in canada so $2500US is roughly $3000 canadian and then with our government being such *******s, they are gonna taax me on it, so all in all im looking at something like $3500-$3700canadian, thats a big price to pay.

Do u think i could get it sent down to a friends in the Us and then drive across the line and pick it and bring it back in without telling anyone of would that be too hard to do??
any input would be helpful, does anyone know if i can get away by using a PO box.?

the shifter i am using is a Hurst (a 33% reduction) the greatest

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

yea i got a cowl induction hood too, i would like to be able to get away without having to pull any headers. The thing is i live in canada so $2500US is roughly $3000 canadian and then with our government being such *******s, they are gonna taax me on it, so all in all im looking at something like $3500-$3700canadian, thats a big price to pay.

Do u think i could get it sent down to a friends in the Us and then drive across the line and pick it and bring it back in without telling anyone of would that be too hard to do??
any input would be helpful, does anyone know if i can get away by using a PO box.?

the shifter i am using is a Hurst (a 33% reduction) the greatest
Yeah, that is kinda steep -- but it's worth it. If you know anyone close to the border, I don't see where that would be a problem. As far as I'm aware, large boxes can't be shipped to P.O. Boxes, so that idea may be out of the question.

Yes, Hurst is one of the better manual shifters I've used. I looked into the B&M, but it is simply a shorter shifter (hence why it's also shorter throw). The Hurst is the stock length, but the pivot ratio is reduced, so it's shorter throw without actually being shorter. Also, those shift-stops are VERY handy for saving the aluminum shift forks from bending (the most common problem with these 5-speeds).

[Finkle]

I absolutely love the shorter throw, though sometimes i miss 3rd if i am being careless lol.
i had my truck go to the rear end shop to have them take a look at everything cuz when they put the 3.73's they said my possi was gonna go. WEll after 5000km it hasnt but it looks exactly like it did b4 with no metal at all. So now i was thinkin cuz i need a new possi and with this hopful supercharger i should upgrade. Ive heard quite a bit on the eaton clutch but would a locker work better with a supercharger or no, or is it just preference.

Now for getting goods across this line if i were to declare the supercharger at customs would i have to pay taxes on it???? i heard from a friend that cuz of the free trade agreement between can and the us that there would be no duty, is duty the same as tax?? a little help??
how much trouble could i possible get in for tryin to take it across if i tried to hid it, cuz i could just unscrew my subs and put everything in my sub box. hopefully make it across

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

I absolutely love the shorter throw, though sometimes i miss 3rd if i am being careless lol.
i had my truck go to the rear end shop to have them take a look at everything cuz when they put the 3.73's they said my possi was gonna go. WEll after 5000km it hasnt but it looks exactly like it did b4 with no metal at all. So now i was thinkin cuz i need a new possi and with this hopful supercharger i should upgrade. Ive heard quite a bit on the eaton clutch but would a locker work better with a supercharger or no, or is it just preference.

Now for getting goods across this line if i were to declare the supercharger at customs would i have to pay taxes on it???? i heard from a friend that cuz of the free trade agreement between can and the us that there would be no duty, is duty the same as tax?? a little help??
how much trouble could i possible get in for tryin to take it across if i tried to hid it, cuz i could just unscrew my subs and put everything in my sub box. hopefully make it across
Are you saying that with the 3.73s, you blew out your stock locker? Or that the shop told you that it would eventually blow, but that after 5000Km it still has NOT gone bad? Please clarify.

As to duties, customs, taxes, and such -- I'm out of my reckoning in those areas. Anyone else care to answer.

[Finkle]

sorry about that.
What i meant to say is that when i took my truck to get my gears put in which was about 3 months ago. The shop told me that my crap ass GM possi was gonna blow soon. He actually told me that it was completely shot, that there was no way i could get 2 tires spinning at all under any circumstance. I think he was smoking some sort of crack because i have no problem getting both her tires to come loose, if im not carfeul enough i can actually get it to go sideways into 4th but it has to be wet a bit, but always 2 tires.
but anyways i took my truck in today after running the 3.73's for about 5000km. We took the diff cover off and the possi looked exactly like it did when we first looked at it (when i put int he gears) no metal or nuthin in my oil or by the magnet. hence that no more damage has been done but i still drive her hard and let my tires break loose all the time. so should i be replacing this sometime soon because the guy at the shop told me he was cokmpletely stumped???? He told me to wait till she blows but i could be risdkin damage to my gears, or is this guy just pulling my chain??
i was looking at Lockers but i know nuthin about those, or should go with a cone possi (auburn style) or the eaton style (rebuildable).??? Would any work better with a S/C ro is it just preference???
what do u all think i should be doin here???

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

The stock locker (if that is what you have) is about as strong as the Eaton units and the Powertrax units. I've had GM lockers in other cars in the past and they're hard to kill and stand up to a pretty decent amount of power. So, I don't really think you should worry too terribly much. If it starts acting up, THEN deal with it, but until it starts showing symptoms of something bad going on, I wouldn't be too concerned. I'm thinking he MIGHT be just pulling your chain -- hoping to get more $$$ out of you for another install. I hate to think like that, but it could be the case. I'd have another shop at least take a peek at it and see if they see the same thing -- DON'T mention the other shop, however. Get a fresh opinion based on a 100% fresh set of eyes/techs.

If you're going to go with an S/C, then a locker is almost a MUST for traction. I've got the stock locker, and it still breaks loose, but I can only imagine what a one-wheel-peel would be like. If only my wife's Blazer had a locker. . . But, it's a 4x4, so it doesn't really need one.

[firefighter]

Hookay so MACH's out of the question. But i'm still not convinced about the Wynjammer probably b/c I never heard of them till here. I just can't find enough info on it. So what about the Powerdyne they just came out with a new kit for '02-'03 Blazers. I also like the idea that it is very quiet I'm into the whole stealth thing.

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

Hookay so MACH's out of the question. But i'm still not convinced about the Wynjammer probably b/c I never heard of them till here. I just can't find enough info on it. So what about the Powerdyne they just came out with a new kit for '02-'03 Blazers. I also like the idea that it is very quiet I'm into the whole stealth thing.
I can understand what you mean -- I never heard of Wynjammer before either. I researched into it for about 8 months before I finally took the plunge. I ran a Powerdyne for about 3 years before I switched over. I ran the standard 7 psi pulley for about 1 year and then swapped out to the 9 psi pulley. Those ratings are approximate, and I didn't have a boost gauge at the time, so I don't know if the "9 psi" pulley (2.70") was actually producing 9 psi or not. The Powerdyne is a decent kit, but the belt only lasts about 50K miles (less in some cases, and MUCH less running the 9 psi pulley) -- and belt replacement is a bit of a pain.

Overall, I was happy with the Powerdyne -- but after looking at the Wynjammer, I noticed a few inefficiencies about the Dyne. The Jammer pulls harder and has a smoother power curve, overall. But, the choice is yours -- either one is a good choice.

Plus, the Powerdyne is a LOT quieter than the Wynjammer -- the Wynjammer you can hear a good distance away -- the Powerdyne is barely noticeable unless you're right up close to it. No matter what, there's going to be a slight whine that you can hear -- it's just a matter of how loud it is.

[firefighter]

Well I just spent I dunno about an hour reading all 15 pages in the preffered vendors area on the jammer and I'm thinking a little differently now. Buuut I have plenty of time b/c I'm gonna do the full exhaust and a cam change and hopefully the AFI intake. within the next 6mos. and then start really considering the blower. My goal is to get about 300 at the fly about 250 at the wheels first I should be able to do that no prob and then huff it. We'll see as it stands I just spent 3K on wheels and tires. I'm waiting for the Boyds should get them in about 2 weeks. Then on to procuring the cam and stuff or the intake if it's available soon.

[Finkle]

Are you running any colder plugs with your supercharger??

i really like the jammer set up better than any other one out there right now.
What else is there that i may be able to look at, i know theres vortech and pwerdyne, and procharger. ???
i dont really wanna jump into this beacuse its gonna be a huge investment for me to make, just tryin to figure out he basics first.

My best friend has a 2003 Ford lightning, have u raced one with your supercharger, Pls tell me how bad you kicked his ass??? my friend just refuses to belive me that ill kick his ass when i get the charger....lol...****ty fords

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

Yes, I'm running plugs 1 heat range colder.

I've raced a couple local Lightnings. One, I know for a fact, is completely stock, so it wasn't too much of a contest. The other I don't know. From what he says, he put a smaller pulley on it and I know the exhaust was upgraded -- but what else (if anything) I don't know. That was a harder run. I can't say that I smoked him, but I did beat him. Now, mind you, this was with my Powerdyne in place. This Wynjammer feels more powerful -- and if you can actually feel it, it's got to be at least 10 hp or more of a gain (I'm basing this PURELY on butt-dyno test results) -- I plan on getting to a dyno soon (got a couple more upgrades I want to do first), and see where it stands (just for S&Gs until the tracks open).

Of all of them, I feel the Wynjammer is the best. The Procharger is a nightmare waiting to happen. The Vortech is good, but it has a couple issues that I'm not keen about (tapping into the vehicle's oiling system -- faster oil breakdown, much higher intake temp due to the oil) and is inefficiently run/designed. The Powerdyne has the commonly known "belt problem" -- and since the belt is internal, it's a huge hassle to replace (as well as being expensive), plus the design is VERY inefficient.

Powerdyne at 7 psi provides approximately 60-70 rwhp (with the "help" of an FMU). The Wynjammer at 6 psi provides approximately 65-75 rwhp WITHOUT an FMU and with ECM tuning.

Plus with the Vortech and Powerdyne, you are looking at a minimum of 8 hours install time. The Wynjammer can be installed and ready to run in about 2 (if you go slow and have a few beers along the way).

[Finkle]

Im sorry about all these questions i keep asking, i got soo many i just dont wanna make a mistake buying one.

What are you doin for traction, are you running a bigger tire, traction bars, or did you go out and get a four-link rear end?
Cause right now im running a 275/35 ZR18 michelin and i can break those huge tires loose into 3rg gear if i wanna, but when im racing 2nd gear is almost a waste if i get them spinning at all (soo short).

Im hoping to go across the line and to seattle to pick it up from my dads friends house and i guess ill just do the install there, this way i should have no problem with customs and no taxes thats gonna be over $800-$1000 saving. But i sure as heck aint mechanically inclined, i can do most of the basic things on my truck but thats really it unless i have someone watching. Is there anything that i will NEED to put in the supercharger like new parts/tools, or is it just that simple?

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

What am I doing for traction? LOSING IT! I've got 245/45ZR17s and I don't want to deal with traction bars due to their handling characteristics on curves (they're for straight lines only, from my experience). Bigger tires would also screw up the truck's handling characteristics. 4-link. . . I'd need bags to properly set that up (wouldn't I?), and I'm not keen on bags.

Tools: ratchet set, screw driver set (Phillips and flathead), shop rags, drain pan (for coolant), allen wrenches (only two sizes), basic stuff. . . Oh yeah, the biggest thing: patience. It only takes about two hours (at the most). The install is EASY. Two bolts on the A/C bracket and the S/C bracket bolts right to it. Tubing with clamps, and other little stuff. I needed to buy another radiator hose (I cut it in the wrong spot), and you may need a different belt. Other than that, it's a breeze. I had a harder time installing my K&N FIPKII!

[ZR1-S10]

No you don't need bags, you can use coil-overs insead. Just make sure you by the right four-link. Oh yeah, Tracton bars won't effect handling if the pre-load is set right, have a big gap for the street and then adjust it at the track.

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

No you don't need bags, you can use coil-overs insead. Just make sure you by the right four-link. Oh yeah, Tracton bars won't effect handling if the pre-load is set right, have a big gap for the street and then adjust it at the track.My thing is that I have set this truck as s "set and forget" deal. I don't want to tinker with it, beyond adding parts. Adjustable stuff WILL get adjusted (to DEATH). Not a good idea for me. I'm a tinker freak, so if it can be tinkered with, I will tinker with it. Which, is what I'm trying to avoid. If it can be user-adjusted at any time other than the initial installation, you can bet it WON'T be found on my truck. That's just the way I am.

So, again, a four-link is out of the question (coil-overs are adjustable). I was contemplating Slide-a-Links or possibly Cal-Tracs. I'm still dealing with a couple other projects (finishing up the rest of the suspension bushings and gettting the rear-end gears installed), so I haven't looked into them fully just yet -- but once I get these two projects finished, THEN I'll start my research on traction devices.

[Hammer]

man i'm telling you s/c, you love to tinker and really once you get that 4 link tweaked out, you would probably never look back at the setup you have now especially if you are road racing it. you have to know the 4 link is a superior improvement to the setup we have now. you're truck would handle like a slot car, they are not that hard to install either from what i've seen and read, although i've never done one.

there's a couple other things that can REALLY help. weight distribution. put the batter in the back behind the rear axle, put in a full size spare, and consider a fuel cell behind the axle or immediately over the top if you can do it. fiberglass fenders and hood go a long ways also to help balance the truck out.

[Hammer]

you should be able to get 300 hp out of the engine w/o the super charger, if you want to do a lot of work to the internals, a costom manifold, weight reduction and exhaust tunning. you may have to pump compression up to the 91-93 grade range.

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

man i'm telling you s/c, you love to tinker and really once you get that 4 link tweaked out, you would probably never look back at the setup you have now especially if you are road racing it. you have to know the 4 link is a superior improvement to the setup we have now. you're truck would handle like a slot car, they are not that hard to install either from what i've seen and read, although i've never done one.

there's a couple other things that can REALLY help. weight distribution. put the batter in the back behind the rear axle, put in a full size spare, and consider a fuel cell behind the axle or immediately over the top if you can do it. fiberglass fenders and hood go a long ways also to help balance the truck out.
Yes, I DO love to tinker -- which is why a 4-link would spell DOOM for me. . . I'd be constantly tinkering with it and never get to the track -- spending more time looking for that "sweet spot" than racing. I know a 4-link is FAR superior to the stock leafs, but I'm just not that commited (or I WOULD be commited, if I went that route). As it is, the IAS shocks have GREATLY improved ride and handling (amazingly enough), and the full poly bushing set (what I've gotten installed so far) has made an immense improvement. I still need to deal with the rear leaf and shackle bushings (conquering that this week), the front upper and lower coil spring isolators (maybe I'll try to tackle that myself this week also -- but I'll need to rent a spring compressor and check to see how exactly they are installed), the tie-rod end boots (easy enough, but I'm leary of it for right now because I have a nagging suspicion that it will need aligned after I do that), and then the front upper and lower control arm bushings (which I really can't handle myself -- but I'm going to look at it again (on firehawkclone's advice) and see if I can tackle it or not).

Basically what I've done so far to the suspension is this:
*ZQ8 suspension from factory (front (33mm) and rear (23mm) stabilizer bars, frame brace, 2" lower stance, quick-ratio steering gear-box, etc.)
*Belltech 2" drop spindles and blocks -- I may replace the blocks with an actual set of springs, just for S&Gs.
*Energy Suspension Master Bushing Kit, rear stabilizer bar mount bushings, front U/L coil spring isolators, and front low profile bump stops. The master kit includes: U/L front control arm bushings, front sway bar mount and end link bushings, body mounts, rear leaf and shackle bushings, tie-rod end boots, and transmission mount.

From what I've gotten done so far (all of it MYSELF, thus far -- except the spindles), the ride is stiffer, rough, but it'll corner like nobody's business.

I'm going to put the spare back on to ease weight distribution and add a full fiberglass tonneau (a Gaylord's Traditional) -- those ought to give me a little more weight over the axle to deal with. I'm also looking into either Slide-a-Links or CalTracs -- but I haven't researched those enough yet, so it'll be a bit before I tackle them. I want something that will NOT affect cornering/handling, but will give me a little more traction in a straight line.

I've already got a plan on what I'm doing with this for the next several steps.
1) Get the suspension bushings finished (control arms, leaf spring/shackles, fr. coil spring isolators, tie-rod end boots)
2) Get my 3.73s installed (I've got them sitting in a box and they're CALLING to me like a winsome wench)
3) Tonneau cover and carpeted bedliner -- both from Gaylord's
4) Functional cowl hood -- the Wynjammer runs cool as can be -- cooler than the truck did N/A, but every single little bit helps.
5) Sport Mirrors -- Cal-Vus, most likely -- mostly for style, but the lower wind drag will be nice (EVERYTHING I've done so far is primarily function and not form -- with a couple exceptions)
6) Rear disc conversion -- nothing too fancy, but I want it stop on a dime. I may go with the Turbo slotted rotors when I do this -- front and rear. When I do that, I will probably also upgrade the front calipers to 2-piston, so it'll be front and rear disc, front and rear Turbo slotted rotors, and front 2-piston calipers (basically, an ALL new brake system -- maybe with an upgraded master cylinder as well) and probably upgrade to stainless steel brake lines during the course of it.
7) Dual-friction clutch -- all that power, but if the clutch is slipping, what good is it? I'm going to hold off on that until my stock clutch goes (or until I have completed all my other mods first).
8) By that point, the AFI manifold should be done, perfected, and released -- at which point I'll be getting one and upgrading the injectors and going with more boost (only up to 9-10 psi -- 9, prefereably) -- nothing drastic, just a little bit more.

Beyond that, I may just consider my truck as "DONE!" and just enjoy it from there.

The truck is pretty well balanced as it is, with a couple things I could do to improve it -- but I'm VERY surprised at how it handles. I was amazed with the stock suspension fro what it was, and now with the upgrades in place I'm even more impressed. This handles better than 95% of the cars I've ever driven, owned, or modified. I had a BMW Z3 (back when I worked for BMW Financial Services) and this truck handles BETTER than it did, and just keeps getting better.

[extreme gmc]

who makes 2nd gen frotn fenders?

[extreme gmc]

^^^my spelling sux^^^

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

I don't know of anyone that does -- at least not in fiberglass. But, it's worth looking into!

[Finkle]

so is the wynnjammer upgradable, like could i run 10-12 psi down the road by just changing the pulley on it?????
i really wish someone could get dyno results...i guess i should call AL and ask him too.... thx guys , tax season is just around the corner here and thats all im waiting for

[OBI WAN]

so is the wynnjammer upgradable, like could i run 10-12 psi down the road by just changing the pulley on it?????
i really wish someone could get dyno results..


Yes to question #1

Hopefully we will have members doing that this year. AND TRUTHFULLY!
TOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
MANY times at other forums the posting information is completely made up. Desk Top dyno programs made to look like real dyno sheets. People using Autotaps etc to try to determine air flows then make up numbers and the whole nine yards. Ive even seen the same kit post from 240 RWHP to 325 RWHP and they guy whom had a true 240 RWHP and the sheet to back it just couldnt figure out what he did wrong. Well he didnt lie!
I saw even 414 RWHP once that just blew my mind. A 4.3 stock fuel system cannot no matter how much pressure you throw at the injectors cant flow 40+ lbs and hour, its rated factory at 19. To make 414 would require over 500 flywheel and 40 lb+ and hour rating would be needed to achieve that number. Also the fuel lines if you READ fuel specialist sites and or fitting ones will also tell you the factory lines are too small to flow that amount of fuel!
Another thing to ALWAYS remember for base information is that it takes 10 h.p. to run .1 quicker at 15 seconds in a 1/4. So how does one go about running 15-16+ in a 1/4 in stock trim obtain sub 14 with a added 100 h.p. That one always gets me! Then the guy whom has 325 RWHP is outrun by someone with boltons or alot less boost!!

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

Yes, the Wynjammer can run EASILY 10-12 psi -- and all you will need to do is swap pulleys (as with any S/C) -- and maybe a smaller belt. Of course, the stock fuel system can NOT handle 10-12 psi (at least until the AFI manifold is finished -- still waiting to hear from Norm on the progress -- sending another email Saturday). In fact, Al mentions that fact of he himself running 15 psi on the same head unit.

I've got a little more work I want to do on mine (a few suspension bushings and my rear-end gears), but I WILL be hitting a dyno soon, just for S&Gs. I will post a list of all the mods I have in place as well as a scan of the dyno.

Gee, Jedi Master, I wonder which thread over at S10F you MIGHT be refering to? LMFAO! What new idiocy is going on over there?

[OBI WAN]

Same old ****, just different day. I can post whatever me wants here and they ALL read it and take it back to try once again to destroy the understanding. You know EXACTLY what I was refering too, someone used a autotap, which probably doesnt even know how to run one and got some insane air metering amounts that not even a 3 inch MAF could read let alone the Max out size can read, which by the way they dont read actual air flow amounts, its all voltage signals, and then amasses a 414 RWHP scenerio. THen the others whom claim over 300RWHP of a fuel system that max under 100 PSI fuel pressure might be able to attain 32 lbs and hour and thats a push in itself and 32 lbs ad hour on a V-8 will support those numbers, but not with 2 less injectors and so on!! Then if you use low numbered, which they always are, spread sheets from calculators using weight h.p. etc that says a 3400 lb vehicle at 300 hp might run 15's, but they hit 13's????? Somehow the numbers just dont add up then along comes a guy with a kit, that doesnt know how to brag and lie that shows ACTUALY 1/4 mile run tabs, shows he just ran into the high 14's with he same thing.Then again another which may realy have ran a 13.? 1/4 comes back a year later so pissed cause he cant even get into the 14's anymore, well!!!!!!! Where we actually lieing to cover what we knew was a hoax, inflating crap cause we believed in god and he will come through and when he didnt, the truth now be told!!!

[OBI WAN]

Now that God has been busted and the truth it out, trailer trash that he is, still others are trying to back other areas like the FMU.

Ya all know I call a FMU a F*cking Mickeymouse Unit right? SO this new post goes up that says is a FMU a for real thing or a band aid approach to bring boost to the masses.
This lost sole goes on to say that they developed a special FMU just for the 4.3 and works so well on 160+ units of a certian kit I am just so out there and wild and crazy its not funny. A couple of others joint into the fray to add to my detraction of fact. But its funny how one that used Gods creation found that a cartech one worked better. Then another does back my claim and then also the guy whom started all this **** comes along and backs what I said about pressure, orfices size, injector lockup problems yada yada yada, but then finalizes saying this one will work. Hey wait a minute you just backed my reasons for disliking of the dam things saying whatI said was right, yet say the opposite just after. Aint you ass backwards????
Another pops in again that is working on his own verison of and intake that will use its own injectors because he cant nail the tune down in the attempts he has tried so this is the only way to do so, then he will go even further into boost. ALong with how many on boards are also doing such etc. How many posts say theyve ruined a cat with a FMU cause it just runs bloody rich, or dangerously lean and there is no middle ground, yet come into this and say otherwise! Also the guy whom started this hoax crap tries to say you know how many hundreds of thousands to millions of dollars it would cost to make what you suggest. Yet others are making intakes and various cost and AFI is working on one, there all sub $1500.And the "TUNERS", why do they use FMU's and run ungodly amounts of boost.They dont, there the ones whom had the gumpstion to make AFC's, addin injector systems and the likes and all the postive displacement makers are doing one in the same, but no S/C makers!! All these units run sub $750 and they bandaids!!

Yeah as you can tell I'm maybe just a tad riled, but really I'm not. Just wish these malinformed mutations would just stop the **** flowing from the mouth and makes it come back out again where it belongs, the rear side. When I was asked to run Planet, my first idea was to fill the area up, not with just the most technical minds I could, but also people who **** out there ass, not there mouths!!

[OBI WAN]

I used to read Mother Goose to my kids, I dont want them believing these fairly tales could be true, so here at Sic, we dont!

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

Preaching to the choir, man, preaching to the choir. I used an FMU with the Powerdyne, but I knew it wasn't the cat's ass. Even the adjustable ones suck. That's the biggest advantage of the Wynjammer: no FMU.

Compare things: Wyjnammer = a PROVEN 65 rwhp on an older kit (that has since been tweaked) at 6 psi. Powerdyne = an estimated 70 rwhp (with FMU) at 7 psi. Vortech = an estimated 70-75 rwhp (with FMU) at 8 psi. Hmm. . . Let's see here. . . Less boost, 5-10 less hp (which SHOULD be 10-20 less hp) and a more accurate tune and no chance of over-taxing the injectors? What was MY choice? Go figure. The folks on other boards can argue until they pass out, facts are facts. A couple want to speculate and sling mud, but that's because they KNOW what the facts really are, but don't want to admit it.

It is for these reasons that I don't bother with the various other forums -- too many bench racers, dyno queens, and morons that just want to argue for no reason other than argue and try to pick apart logic and facts.

[Joe]

I couldnt have said it better myself supercharged.
nick

[Gotta_327]

hey supercharged have u hit the dyno yet with your charger?
and can you do a few comparisions from why u think this is bretter than the powerdyne!
all input is thanked

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

hey supercharged have u hit the dyno yet with your charger?
and can you do a few comparisions from why u think this is bretter than the powerdyne!
all input is thanked
No, I haven't hit the dyno yet -- still working on a couple things, but I plan on going just for S&Gs. A dyno doesn't tell much -- it's actual performance that does, and I'm anxious to see how much better my times at the Auto-X are this compared to last!

Comparisons? Sure thing: http://www.sicgmtrucks.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1108

I already did! Fifth post down on the first page has all of my comparisons and observations of the Wynjammer vs. the Powerdyne.