How To : Rebuild 700R4/4L60/4L60E

[Mikz86TA]

**** Hello friends! The time had come to try to get the TA back on the road in full swing. Money being tight and past experiences from others doing the work has pushed me to expanding my skills. Also the saying that "If you want it done right, do it yourself" was steadily ringing in my head. Planning originally on only installing a ValveBody upgrade/correction kit and a new Band to replace the one that parted company, I dug into it. But the more I got into it, the more and more I realized there was more to the breakdown than just a faulty part. So, not wanting to half-a$$ it, I decided that I would only be comfortable going through it all commpletely. It has been quite the experience, an eye-opener and even some fun.
**** I try to live my life now by the thought of 'Desire to Inspire'. I wanted to share this experience with others in hope that maybe it could Educate, Expand someone elses skills or just Entertain. The Auto Tranny has always been this 'unknown' gray area, black hole, or whatever you want to call it. Getting to do this has made me realize two things. First it isnt as difficult as one might expect yet is not something that just anyone should tackle. Second is what I already mentioned. "If you want it done right..........".
**** So, I will post up some info, things I came across, how-to and pics of my journey into the 4L60.
**** The 4L60 is the renamed version of the ol 700R4. In the early 90s, GM decided to come up with a standardized numbering system for the Hydramatic division. The later 4L60E is the same tranny basically but with electonic solenoids on the valvebody which allows computer control of shifts. To a degree anyways. Below is a quick run through of what those mean.

FIRST DIGIT = indicates the number of forward gears/speeds. 4 is a 4 speed tranny, etc.
SECOND DIGIT = indicates the trannys position in relation to the driveline. L is longitudally placed (RWD) and T is transversely placed (FWD).
THIRD DIGIT = indicates strenght and is a 2-digit number. A 65 is stronger than a 60. Self explanatory
FOURTH DIGIT = indicates weather its computer or PCM controlled. If it has an E, it is. If nothing, it isnt.

**** This is intended as a helpful guide that may be easier to understand. Since pics say a thousand words and manuals dont seem to have enough of them. Its by no means a exact to every application, but the basics of most trannys and the above mentioed models are identical. Always know your limits, seek a few manuals and talk with someone whos done it B4. Helps to have some experienced person at your disposal too.

[Mikz86TA]

First Step : Determining if you are capable of completing this. Education, Experiences and Resources are key.
Education is important. Finding a rebuild manual or two and studying it way before you plan on tackling this job is probably the first thing I would do. This way you can apply your personal skill level to the job at hand. Lookup some info online too. Pictures are worth a thousannd words. Seeing someone elses experience with a rebuild through forums and postings will greatly open your eyes. Finding a How-To online for free is hard to come by. There are DVDs and VHS availible on E-Bay and other sites. I did find one on YouTube but its more of a promotional video by a Company.
Experiences and hands-on are the only way to really understand if you posess the skill needed. In my profession I see newbies come along that I train who have read, studied and taken a written test that think they are ready for the big tyme. But once they get into the actual job, they realize the party has just begun. Application of what you have studied is the staple of being successful. If you have alot of mechenical skills and experiences already, this might come real easy to you. If you are limited in past experiences, maybe this should be a job you have experienced help on. Not to say, dont try it, but rather have some knowledgable help to follow. Though this is my 1st personal rebuild of an automatic, I had been there most every time in the past watching, learning and asking questions to the professional builder.
Resources are very helpful. Gather as many as possible. This includes Literature, a Forum who has a professional builder on regularly, Shops locally who are kind enough to talk with you for a few minutes and Parts stores who specialize in transmission parts. Also having multiples of each of these resources is beneficial. I read on one forum post where even a expert said you ask 10 builders a question and youll get 10 different variations of the answer. Being able to determine which way to go is soley up to you, but having a few options to make the decision is always better.
Second Step : Is to find as much info on what caused the failure. This way you can make a decision on what needs to be done to deter it from happening again. Weather it was your driving tecnique, a part thats known for failure or simply just normal wear. You will want corect the issue now. Again, the Resources and Education are going to play a key here. For the 700R4/4L60/4L60E transmissions, F-body (Camaro and Firebird) and C/K Truck Forums are the best resources for failure info. The V8s in those Hi-Po and HD applications are placing more of a load the transmission than our applications as a whole. Ive read some Stickys on a couple of those Forums which are dedicated to 'What Broke'. Youll notice patterns and when a big hard part inside goes, it takes a lot with it. Also just by seeing what hardparts are availible on sites as a fix are lightbulbs for knowing there must be a failure there. Ill get to a little history later on about this transmission. There have been updates from the manufactuerer over time to correct the issues and some of the aftermarket parts are geared toward the older ones. Again, Education is key here too. Dont buy what you already have and waiste money. Plus, the GM parts are stronger than the Aftermarket ones anyway. Now this brings me to the topic of Updates. The term Updates is loosely used sometimes. TRUST ME on this one!! Just because the tranny shop downtown gives you a warranty, tells you all the updates will be performed and/or seems like a great business....doesnt mean that they are confident that it will not break again and doesnt mean that your tranny is going to be updated to the same specs as a brand new year model with all the corrections. Heres a scenerio = If you had a 1985 700R4 and went in to get a rebuild, you might be quoted say $900 for a 'carry-in' job. They tell you that its going to be as good as a new one for $2000 and get all the updates. However, that doesnt mean you are going to GET the most updated tranny back. Updated means 2 things....1st is that the rebuild kit has the newer designed seals or bushings. Which is good, but thats is not a completely updated unit as a whole. 2nd it could mean that your old 1985 case is going to be used as a core and replaced with a 89-up model. (This will become more clear as you read). I can guarantee almost every time that the latter isnt what they mean. To simply put it, even at Wholesale cost if they were to update your 1985 case and hard parts (which I dont believe is actually possible as far as that case is concerned) to the later parts, the cost of those parts and a new or donor case would almost exceed $900 anyway. Plus the normal rebuild kits, a converther and the labor. No way that would be profitable for them.
By no means am I trying to put down or step on any toes of a professional trans builder. There are alot of good ones out there. But there are also a fair share of shady ones. And sometimes its not entirely their fault that things go under-explained. Most of the people they deal with dont care about the details. They just want their tranny rebuilt and working for as little as possible. Its up to yourself to get educated on the topic, ask questions and let them know you want the details. Futhermore you want it done right. Always inquire about what you have learned. Educate yourself on the cost of everything and insist on the updated parts that you have learned are failure prone. Always make them do an itemized invoice showing that those parts were purchased and used. In the event later on you learn they were not, you now have a means of retribution.
So, you now have some input and a decision to make:cool:

[Mikz86TA]

Third Step : Assuming you have decided to do this yourself, now you must figure out your Cost, Space and Time.
Time is important. You do not want to rush this job. Even if its not done in a day or two, thats OK. In fact, given this is your first time, you will want to have some leeway in the event you come across something unforseen in your preperations.
Space is something you want to consider. Do you have it. The tranny is only so big, but you will be amazed at how they can put 20lbs of sh*t in a 10lb bag! You will need a spot for the Case to sit and be able to manuever it around. They do sell a Holding Fixture setup that bolts to a workbench. Makes it easier but isnt really nessesary. Thats up to you and your budget. You will want a place you can lay out all the internal parts in an ordered form. Also you will want a space to lay out the ValveBody and room to lay out its parts as well. Things like the Pan, Converter, Tailhousing and Misc can be set aside. Have a spot set for a 'Cleaning Station'. I use a old clean pan, specific parts cleaning brushes and mineral spirits. Use the Non-Linting towels as described later. Use regular towels under your parts layout to keep a clean space. Compressed air is almost a cant do without as well. My personal space wasnt the most ideal, but for the time being it was what I had to work with.
Cost is your next line of order. This includes parts, tools and all the other goodies. Lets start with the tools.
There are some Specialty Tools you will want to consider. I made and modified some stuff to work. The specialty parts are availible but rediculously expensive. Heres one site I found with some DIY stuff. http://www.mez.co.uk/Chevy700r4pg5.html . And here is a place where the actual tools can be found. http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...L60-700R4tools (http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Code=4L60-700R4tools) Check E-bay regularly too. Ive seen some specialty tools go for much more reasonalble prices. You might consider a retail $90 tool for $60 used and resell it for $50 later if you think youll never re-use it. $10 in the end beats a flat $90 anyday. I provided a link to what is availible new. That page may not have all the special tools, but the ATSG manual and most any rebuild manual will list them and the part #s. Seek and decide on whats actually needed. In the later post I will recommend what I feel is relevant to get. But in the end its your call. Also I provided the DIY tools link. There are a few more I found like that in Google searching a few key words related to it. I made some tools myself, but am not going to get into detail about them. Ill share some breifs about it but will not be liable for your interpetation. If you dont feel its safe or cant figure it out...than splurge and buy the proper tool. =)
Next is Common Tools. If you are doing this and have been reading the previous postings, then you should already have adequate tools for a mechaninc-type job. Ratchets, Sockets, Combination Wrench Sets along with Picks, Hammers (YES!! I get to use the BFH!), SnapRing Pliers, Flat-Blade Screwdrivers (they are actually useful? WOW!) and a few other common tools.
Literature could actually be considered a tool. However you see it, a decent book and illustrations are a lifesaver. ATSG makes one of the most highly reguarded manuals. They have ones specific to your tranny. Has alot of updates listed, many exploded views, step-by-step and even some GM part numbers in the event you need to get a 'exchangable' part. They can be found at alot of on-line tranny tool sales, some on-line tranny rebuild sites, ATSG site (can be downloaded) and on E-bay. Most I found were $20-$25 plus shipping. I got mine here in Tallahassee at Superior Trans Parts for $16 plus tax. I have had the Haynes Techbook on GM trannys for a long time and used it for reference too. Its pics are actual shots of a rebuild which helps sometimes. The Haynes is easily aquired at most autoparts stores or bookstore. If youre still undecided if you wish to tackle it, then go and flip through one of those. To me, they arent the only source I would use (the ATSG is worth it!) but is a good addition and will illustrate what your about to get into. I also have a GM/Pontiac Trans-Am dealer service manual. But thats not needed since its over $100 new if you wanted to go buy one. Its good info and illustrations but not really nessesary. I got mine used and have had it for many years. As mentioned B4, there are DVDs and VHSs availabe as well. But having the book beside you during the work and taking notes is the only way to fly. But the Video would be a definate bonus. (They make it look sooo easy.....Edited out the cussing too I bet. hehehe)
Basic Stuff needed is the Fluid and a fully drained 700R4/4L60/4L60E uses around 10 quarts of fluid. Please verify and get the correct Type as well. MineralSpirits is a great cleaner. I have used about a Gallon and a Half so far. Its about $10 a Gallon here for the Low-Odor type. Hardware and paint stores are good places to find it. Some paint stores have it cheaper in bulk. An old gallon bleach bottle is good to have filled there. Trans-Jel or Vasoline (petrolium jelly) is going to be handy. Temporarily sticks check balls, band lug and/or torrington bearings in place during assembly. Compressed Air is almost a definate need. Not only to blow out and dry parts but also to pop out the lower ReversePiston from the case. Also used to help seat the clutchpacks a couple times before taking clearances. Paper Towels there are some considerations. Plain el-cheapos are good for your cleanup and droppings. But internal use requires a different type. See Below. Catch Pan and Drain Pan which you probably already have. Drain Pan is good for first dissasembly and you shouldve already drained the pan while it was in the car. Easier and makes it MUCH lighter. But there is alot still left in there. After the tailhousing is removed, turn the tranny up to draim more out the back. Quite a bit more usually comes out. A flat Catch Pan is good for ongoing dissasembly at the bench. A Cleaner Pan is good to keep the Mineral Spirits and Cleaner Brush in. I use a small old stove pot for the small items and a larger one for the bigger stuff. Cleaner Brushes are cheap and avilible at most auto parts stores. You will need a Soaking Pan too. The new Frictions (band, clutches) will need to be in Tranny Fluid for about 30-40 minutes. Finally a Lube Cup is needed with some type of applicator. I used a small old 'tuna can' to keep some Tranny Fluid in. This is used to dab some fluid on the lip seals, o-rings, bearings and such to assist in sliding them in place during re-assembly.
Paper Towels : Yeah, I know...whats the big deal. Well, inside a Automatic is a fairly rough casting of aluminum. Both the parts and the case. The VBody is steel or iron but it too is a rough cast. Regular paper towels will snag and lint very easily. And lint inside a fresh rebuild isnt wanted. Get some Non-Linting paper towels. I found mine at Lowes for $1.95 a roll. I used only 3/4 of the roll so far. They are very good at soaking up alot of fluid and still remain sturdy. They are Scott Blue-colored ones.
Now comes the rebuild parts. You can find a 'kit' to rebuild the entire unit at a bunch of places. Just look for them. Online or ask your local Tranny Shop if there is an area warehouse that sells to the public. Rebuild Master Kits vary in packaging of the parts. Some include the basics, some add the Band and Frictions with basic quality stuff and some are HiPo oriented. Cost ranges from under $200 to well over $400. Pick your poison.
Finally Patience and Finesse!! Both are virtues that you must already possess. But are both key in success of your rebuild. Things dont always go in easy, or go back in as easy as they 'fell' out. Some parts in a Automatic are loosely fitted and others are so tight, you wonder how it was ever assembled in the first place. An experienced builder said and I quote " there is noting in an automatic thats built straight" . That may not be a totally accurate statement, but once you are doing the build, you will realize where he is coming from. I am suprised this contraption works at all....much less for 100K miles and more! Seems like a bucket of ideas shoved together and somehow it worked.
Things to not overlook : Flushing out the cooler lines!! Do it after you get the tranny removed so you dont forget. Using compressed air in one line will douche it out nicely. Try to get a squirt bottle and fill it with MineralSpirits. Squirts a good amount in and blow it through with the compressed air. I totally removed my lines and also had an aux cooler. I am replacing my hard and soft lines since these had seen better days. I matched them up with some brake line the same size (took the fitting in to match). I am going to bend it myself with the proper tool and do a slight re-routing away from the headers. Be sure if you are reusing yours, to clean them out and air them out thoroughly. Replace the Torque Converter. Uthink this will be expensive and unnessesary, but its not. A basic Converter can be as in-expensive as $100 or less. A good performance one can be less the $200. You can spend mucho-denero on one tho. The lockup on a late-model converter is a friction plate. Similar to the ones that wear in the clutchpacks. If its over 50K miles, its worn! If you were towing in 4th a few times, its worn! Plus, there is only one way to drain a converter....drill a small hole in a specific spot. If you dont drill it in the right spot at the right angle, you will damage it. Then you need to fill the hole with a rivit or wled it. Welding isnt recommended and both rivit and weld throw off the balance. Once again...REPLACEIT! Trans Mount Its a good time to get a new one. For $20, you can get a Poly mount. On the F-bodies, the stock rubber mount was notorious for coming apart. Mine did just after I bought the car. I replaced it with a new rubber one 2Xs. At $15 a pop, I got frustrated. And that was within a year and a half of each other. I got a Poly mount and 7 years later still never had an issue. Plus the Prothane or Energy Susp mounts have an interlocking design for safety. Shift Linkage Also now is a good time to inspect and replace as nessesary. The plastic pivot ball on the end where the nut screws to the stud (some models) is common to dry-rot and break. Also check the sheathing. TV Cable Not on all models like the newer 4L60Es. But if you have it now is the best time to replace it. The inner cable can get bound, the plastic throttle clip broken and/or the reset button seized. Electrical Plugs This is also the best time to inpect and replce them. Easily obtainible from some on-line tranny parts suppliers. Broken clips, corroded and shorted wires and general worn the fu*k out are some reasons to replace them. Most of the time the harness goes up and is hard to get to in the tranny tunnel with the tranny in the vehicle.
Rebuild Kit Parts (basic) : Seals, O-rings, Gaskets, Screen Filters, Shaft Seals, Wear Springs, Torrington Bearings, Thrust Washers, Shaft Bearings. About $25-$50 depending on how much is there
Rebuild Kit Parts (advanced) : Above Plus - Clutch Pack Frictions (Forward/Reverse/Lo-Reverse/OverRun/3-4), Band (2-4), Sometimes Clutch Pack Steel Plates, Sometimes Pump Updates, Sometimes Governor Gear. $200-ish

Things to think about in upgrading to HD Parts :
3-4 ClutchPack - Also a failure-prone area. A few things were done to eliviate the issue, but a HiPo clutch pack with more frictions and steels are nessesary. Stock pack has 5 to 6. 7 is OK but most builders prefer a 8-pack on street trannys and 9-pack on racing trannys. Ive seen 10-packs but that idea failed! ALTO Reds, Borg-Warner Hi-Energy and Raybestos BluePlate or Z-packs seem to be the desired sets. $40-$60 range for a good set. Steels and Frictions are in a set since they are increasing the pack number.
2-4 Band - Commonly worn either to being a poorly built re-lined part or a weak Servo apply. Replace with a HiPo part and address the Servo issue with a kit. There are 'Wide' 2-4 Bands out now but 2 things you want to consider. Unless you are racing, its not that nessesary and if you do it, you will need to REPLACE the Reverse Input Drum to which it applies. The old one has a worn area that is ever so slightly inward. The wide band will contact outter edges first and eventually make it fail. Some have the ReverseInputDrum turned like a brake rotor, but this only weakens the part. The ReverseInputDrum is around $45 new. Will have new bearings too. A good 2-4 band will be in the $15-$30 range.
TRASHED ONE ON THE BOTTOM
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-BandOldandNew1.jpg
Reverse Input Drum - Already explained in the prior topic. But if your band failed like mine did, chances are it scored the drum. Another reason to replace it. If either occured, it should be just fine. Its a sturdy part otherwise. $45 New.
Seperator Plate - The ValveBody seperator plate may need replacing. Check to see if the check balls have pounded the holes concave. Later on I go over a few reasons to replace the SPlate. $25 estimated
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-SeperatorPlate3.jpg
Shift Kits or Corrector Kits - I use the term Shift Kit loosely here. IMO a shift kit is horrible. But marketing reasons thats what most valvebody kits are referred too. The Superior Kits or the ProBuilt Automatics prepared Trans-Go kits are the ONLY considerations here that you should seek as of this writeup. Their focus is on keeping away from the things that are going to kill your tranny and focus on correcting the real issues. A 'Progressively Firm' feel is what you want in the Shift Kit part of it. When you got grandma in the car you dont want to give her whiplash at 15MPH. You want light throttle shifts to be positive but not too firm. Those hard shifts at light throttle are what tear the insides up. But when you are flooring it you need a quicker and harder shift to keep the clutch/band slippage down. IMO the TCI and B&M kits are 1980s way of thinking and dont help out as much as the hurt. The Corrector part of the kit gets problematic areas fixed. Like the range of the shifts, overlapping, slipping, downshift issues, etc. Some help eliviate premature Band wear and the poorly disengageing 3-4 pack when downshifting to 2nd. Line levels of pressure are also boosted to aid in these things and also promote better oiling of hard parts. $89 Superior/HP and the TransGo kits are a bit more. There is a Junior TG kit as well.
2-4 Servo - If the 'kit' didnt come with one, its a good improvement that complements the 'kit' A Vette Servo is commonly known as an upgrade for even a stock use tranny. The Billet Servos are an improvement as well and provide more holding power than the Vette Servo. The 2-4 Servo actuates the Band that applies to shift into 2nd gear and then again into 4th gear. Its released in 3rd and 1st. The Servo is basically in 2 sections of apply. Though there are 8 to 9 actual parts in the entire assembly. They are broken into the 2nd Apply and 4th Apply. The parts commonly replaced is the 2nd Apply Pistion and Housing. The Vette Servo is just the 2nd Apply parts. There is no OEM upgrade 4th Apply part. But there is Aftermarket 4th Apply Pistons availible. But they are a waste of money unless you are towing while on the highway (4th gear) or you are making high speed 4th gear shifts at full throttle. $ Various : OEM Vette ones are dirt cheap. Billet ones are over $50 usually
REPLACEMENT PEICES UP TOP
note that my tranny already had a Vette servo. you can see the pistons are identical in size. The inner area is smaller on a std servo
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-ServoRebuild1.jpg
Boost Valves - Located in the Pump, these parts control the overall line pressure of fluid in the transmission. They are directly complementary of the Servo and VBody kit improvements. There is 2 different ones. The TV Boost and the Lo-Rev (Intermediate) Boost. Some kits come with the TV Boost and some dont. The larger the better. Both these parts are in the same bore and can be replaced at the same time. Also, they are accessible with the pan off and pump removal isnt needed.
TV Boost - Used to increase the ThrottleValve line pressure and is related to making your throttle input more responsive and actuation of parts more precise and crisp. Stock can have up tp a .471 in Hi-Po cars, but is very rare to find a tranny with one in there. A .471 is a good upgrade and is common in good 'kits'. A .500 is the next step and is widely used. There are larger ones but those require pump machining. $25 estimated alone
NEW ON THE LEFT (.471)
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-BoostValvesTV.471.jpg
Lo-Rev Boost - Also known as Intermediate Boost, its main fnction is providing more line pressure in the Lo-Gear selections. If you wish to hold 1st gear longer (stock trannys will only hold 1st to a specific speed....making the 2nd shift B4 you want it to you want it too) like at the track to get more out of the 1st and 2nd, or are towing and will use downshifts as engine braking, then you might consider this additional part. $16 estimated
NEW ON THE LEFT
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-BoostValvesLow-Rev-Int.jpg

[Mikz86TA]

SunShell - The HD unit by SPX is commonly referred to as 'the Beast'. This is a failure prone part. Has been overlooked by GM as a failure since the 700R4 was introduced and into the 90s was the most broken part. Not until the 4L65E was built did GM address the issue and design an updated part. The Aftermarket was 1st on the scene. Around $50-ish anywhere HiPo trannys are built and sold.
Sprag - Some stock cars come with a 27-Element and some a 29-Element. The 29-Element is preferred and will hold more torque. Borg-Warner makes the best one and the newer 'Dual-Cage' design is what you want. $45 estimated
5-Pinion Planetaries - The 700R4/4L60/4L60E has 2 Planetary Gear sets. A Front and a Rear. These only fail in excessive HP/TQ applications and the failure is the roller gear bearings. The actual part is strong and heavy. Stock had 4-Pinion Planetaries and will be just fine in up to 600HP vehicles. A builder quoted that there are the stock GM 5-Pinions and Aftermarket ones. If you do this mod only use the GM ones. The cost of them each will make you re-consider. But the stock GM 4-Pinions are just as strong as ANY of the Aftermarket 5-Pinions out there.

[Mikz86TA]

Well, getting on to the rebuild is my next phase in this post. My problems with the 700R4 date back for a long time. Ive been through a few of them personally. Some were my fault and some were not. Ive seen what breaks and am going to attempt to make sure that doesnt happen this time. My recent issues are from what I thought to be a botched rebuild. Having this 700R4 done at the same time as I was building the 355, I was specific on its intended use and thought that info was taken in by the builder. Apparently not as I found out. :mad: I had to pull it back out after the initial run behind the fresh motor. It turned out the guy who was suposed to build it had another person do it. The second time he swore that wouldnt happen and did a one-day turn around to get me going. Some issues popped up immediately and I almost overheated my new motor during a drive one night. I could only get it into 2nd occasianally and it stuck in 1st the rest of the time. Trying to drive it on a Highway to my house in 2nd isnt fun...since the motor was turning so many RPMs and lack of airflow too. This time I took the entire car to them....I was sick of pulling the tranny on my back!! He admited he let his son build this one since he was training him. Oh, but he was there the whole time..PPfft. IDK..You lied again!! He rebuilt it this time but let his son install it in my car. After he stripped a couple of the crossmember-to-frame bolts, I had enough! It rand and shifted through the gears thereafter so I was somewhat happy. The TV adjustment and Governor adjustment to set my shift I took upon myself. Sometime after all this their business, which had been family owned from generations and here many years went under. Gee, I wonder why??:confused: But my issues had just begun. It started slipping in 4th (OD) but since I usually kept in in 3rd (D) I never noticed it much. But when 2nd started to jump ship, I knew I was in for it. After about a year of only driving it around the block and getting some Resto work done on her, I decided it was time to address the tranny again. My findings were a 2-4 Band that had parted company. My original focus was to put a new band in it, flush it, maybe address some shifting issues and ride. But this nagging feeling that more was amiss just kept my stomach in knots. Digging into the case once it was out of the car, I realized more wasnt right and I was through with trusting others. I realized I could do the rebuild, I have it apart mostly already and I didnt enjoy removing it once again on my back from the car. Even if I dont get it right on my 1st shot, it will be worth the experience and learning.
Here is what I bought :
2-4 Band - Raybestos ProSeries RPS-77700
Gasket n Seals Kit - Precision International
Shift and Correction Kit - Superior 700-R4 HP (came with .471 TV Boost Valve, and Corvette 2nd Servo Assy.
Lo-Rev Boost Valve - Superior K020
Rebuild Manual - ATSG 87-93 700R4/4L60
Converter - Precision of NH 2100 SS
3-4 Clutch Pack (frictions and steels) - Borg-Warner HiEnergy 9/8 pack
Reverse Input Drum - GM
SunShell - SPX (the Beast)
Torrington Bearing Kit - Timken
Thrust Washer Kit - ???
Output Shaft Snap Ring - AC Delco/GM
Clutch Pack Frictions (Forward, Reverse, OverRun, Low-Reverse) Raybestos Std
Speedo Gear Set - GM
Seperator Plate - TransGo 700-P
Plus all the other stuff like Fluid, Cooler Lines, Cleaner, Etc..
Total Cost : $ *post that later*

[Mikz86TA]

OK, so Im not going to do a step by step teardown. But rather this will be pics and info starting from the compltely dis-assembled tranny. And we will be putting it back together.
Your manual(s) are what you should be using as the 1st guide. These are to assist and provide a better visual on the process. Or you can start reading FROM the end if you want to see the teardown :D .

Let the case drain on end. Then the other end. Shops put them in the big hot washers, but us DIY-ers dont have those luxuries. So some time and elbow grease is needed.

Using mineral spirits, shop towels and a parts cleaning brushes, clean the parts. Small parts can be washed with the mineral spirits in an old pot or other pan.

The Valvebody can be set aside after you remove it. Just be sure to get catch all the checkballs. Your manual will guide you on their location during reassembly.

VALVE BODY :
Over at the Valvebody, start taking it apart. Keep the peices in order as they come out and in some type of order as to the slots they go into. Make note of any Spool Valves that are hard to remove or sticking. Once the Valvebody housing and Spool Valves are cleaned thoroughly, you should try to see if they are still sticking in the bore they were removed from. If so, you need to inspect the Spool Valve and bore for knicks and burrs. Remove if found and if you can. If not, try to replace the part. Entire rebuilt VBodies are availible.
Below is a picture of my work area. I wish Id had a pic of the VBody laid in between the parts to show the designated areas. But just know that I was fully aware of the parts orientation. The one row of spool valves/springs/end blockers/blocking rods/etc is going into one side of the VB and the other row is going into the other side All is in order from one end to the other as well. I placed the Checkballs in a container. Other parts you see are the Accumilator housing, spring and piston. The Auxillary VBody which is on 1987-later units. TCC wiring harness. Aux VBody fluid pipe. And the VBody mounting hardware. Keep those in order too.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-PartsLayoutVB1.jpg

In the picture you will also notice some brightly colored peices. These are the replacement parts from the Superior 700R4-HP Shift Correction Kit.
I laid these next to the counterparts they are replacing according to the instructions that came in the kit. That way I know I have them all, I can easily doublecheck and theres no doubt I got it right.

ACCUMILATOR :
The Accumilator of the tranny has 2 housings. The 1-2 shift Accumilator is the removable housing you see in the next picture up close. There is a spring in the Superior kit to replace the OEM one. The OEM springs are weak not only by pressure (shift pressure) standards, but also are weak in terms of metal fatigue. Ive had these break B4 on a 700R4. The new one is made from a better tempered steel. And the spring rate is fitted to the kits specs. Be sure the housing and piston are clean, seal is tight and the side passage is clear.
To Test : Shoot some compressed air through the passage to clean it out of liquid and debris. Also place the piston in the housing over the pin and slide it down. No spring. Use compressed air just a little through the side passage. Hold the picton against the air pressure and be sure its got a good seal. Then you can remove it with the compressed air for the future assembly.
Check for any cracks on the soft aluminum Accum. Piston. Be sure the Accum Housing pin is fully pressed in.
The 3-4 Accumilator is housed on the case side, opposide of the 1-2 Accum. The gaskets and Seperator Plate are between them. Operation and testing is the same. But there is no replacement spring. The Superior kit may have a small bore plug with a tiny hole in it to be pressed into the case side's 3-4 Accum. releif hole. Install with blunt punch as instructed with the kit.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-Accumilator1-23.jpg

SERVO BUILD :
OK. If you havent already, go ahead and assemble the peices for the 2-4 Servo. This will require pulling the snapring from the 2 peices of the piston. The Superior kit has all these peices ready to install. The Servo piston pin length should be checked as listed in your rebuild manual.If not correct, improper 2-4 Band engagement and failure would result. New and adjustable tip units are readily availible. The rebuild kit for the tranny uaually has new scarf-cut seals and o-rings in it. Use the updated blue and green o-rings as shown.
The 1st pic below shows the 2-4 Servo exploded in order.
The replacement peices are above the old ones.
The 2nd pic below shows the re-assembled 2-4 Servo and its state as its ready to go back in.
The blue o-ring is on the 4th Piston and the green o-ring is on the 2nd Piston.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-ServoRebuild1.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-ServoRebuild2.jpg

[Jongo88]

Way to go Mikz. You made me late for dinner. That Is a good read. I just could not stop reading.

[Mikz86TA]

SEPERATOR PLATE :
The Seperator Plate is just that. Its a flat peice of steel that lays between the Tranny Case and the VBody. There are 2 gaskets in the rebuild kit. One has a 'C' stamped on it and the other a 'V'. For Case side and VBody side.
The Sep Plate can be just cleaned and checked for flatness. There are a couple reasons to replace it. So check it thoroughly. One is due to dimpleing around the holes. Usually near where a checkball resides. Bad corrosion (which was my case). Warping. Or you see signs that some of the holes were drilled larger from a past shiftkit install.
The Superior kit will instruct you to enlarge a few holes to specified diameters. If a certain hole is already done, thats OK. As ling as its the correct diameter. Check with the appropriate drill bit.
The holes allow fluid to travel from the topside passages to the bottomside ones. Like a big freakin confusing maze!:hypnotize Enlarging certain holes allow for more fluid to pass. I studied the diagram 3xs and marked the holes to enlarge by using a pencil to write the drill size next to the hole to be done. Lead cleans right off after you drill it. Clean thoroughly after you do the drilling.
Also match up the gaskets in the rebuild kit with the Sep Plate. Not all of the gasket holes will be open on the Sep. Plate. But all Sep. Plate holes will be open on the gasket. Its important you have a MATCHED Sep Plate to your year tranny. TransGo sells a late-model universal one.
Also there are early 1983-1984 gaskets and later ones. Some rebuild kits provide both. Some dont. Be sure you identify yours if theres choices.

Heres a couple pics.
In the 1st Pic, new Seperator Plate is on the left.
In the 2nd pic I show the Sep Plate in more detail.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-SeperatorPlate2.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-SeperatorPlate3.jpg

[bespurcell]

Awesome Write-up Mike. Didn't you start this a few months ago?

[Mikz86TA]

Just some fun lil tidbits of pics to add for reference.

This is what you get when you remove the 100lbs of sh*t from inside the 50lb bag (case) :

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-CaseGuts.jpg

Empty Case Inside :
** All of those holes around the opening you see are fluid passages that go from the pump (which is bolted to the front) into the valvebody and internal transmission functions. Clean and blow tham out good.
** The one passage you see at the top of the tranny case (about the 1:00 position in the picture since the case is on its side) is the one that goes outside. On the top of the tranny (outside) is an overfill drain that you may have noticed on yours B4. Thats where it is inside. Comes off the pumps passage.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-CaseEmpty1.jpg

General VBody setup :
** Note the TCC wires arent connected on this picture. I have to do a different setup anyways
** Note the Aux ValveBody on the lower far left side. On 87-later models this is present. Softens the gear engagement from park or neutral.
** Note the Aux VB pipe from the pump back. 87-later models have a differnet pump to accomidate the extra fluid passage via the pipe.
** Top left round housing. Thats the Accumilator housing. While seperate from the VBody and Aux VBody, its seperated by the Seperator Plate and has spring tension on BOTH sides.
** To the right of the Accumilator is the TV Cable plunger/spring bracket and where the TV cable enters.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-ValveBody1.2.jpg

Installing that Accumilator Housing Plug/Limiter I Spoke Of Earlier (case side) :
** Note that the plug os going into a hole (which is hard to see in the pic). I used a blunt punch to drive it in tapping with a hammer. The limiter plug comes in the Superior kit.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-Accumilator3-4Plug1.jpg

[Mikz86TA]

Heres a Few Diagrams of the Servo Install :

* note the old o-ring colors of blue and red

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-ServoDiagram1.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-ServoDiagram2.jpg

[Mikz86TA]

Thanks Brandon.
Yes, I did this rebuild last year. Still havent got the ol Bird back on the road due to the underbody restoration. I hadnt had all my pictures organized in my Photobucket B4. But I got those done and now Im ready to complete this thread finally.

Ill be doing the rest later tonight or tomorrow. This is just a start.
Awesome Write-up Mike. Didn't you start this a few months ago?

[Mikz86TA]

Sorry Jon. I had to stop for din-din too:D
Theres alot more to read and I have approx 60 or so pics of each step.
Enjoy
Way to go Mikz. You made me late for dinner. That Is a good read. I just could not stop reading.

[Slacker1357]

I dont mean to bug ya, but you mentioned you were going to post the cost in parts you bought... what was it?

btw:pop2: good write up here

[Mikz86TA]

Thanks Roger.

And I will post up that info soon. Thx for the reminder.

[Mikz86TA]

TRANNY PAN :
OK, B4 I get into the the assembly, there was one more thing I wanted to cover right quick. The transmission pan. While there isnt anything special about it, there are a few things you may want to consider and know.

OEM Pan :
They are pretty basic. A stamped steel part painted silver. The biggest beef Ive always had was the lack of a drainplug. But that is an easy fix.
I bought a simple drainplug kit found at most auto parts stores or in Summit/Jegs. TCI and B&M make them which you can get from those online retailers. Dorman or HELP makes them as well for cheaper and can be bought locally. They are both identical. So go with the cheaper one.
First find a sutible location. You will want to do this on the vehicle 1st. Be aware of things like obstuctions, exhaust, crossmembers and ease of accessability. Also take ground clearance in consideration. Most would just put it on the bottom cause it seems logical. But on my TransAm Id rather not have that accident waiting to happen. Then check out the inside. The plug is going to stick inside a bit too. The linkages, Aux VB housing, Accumilator housing and other things are some parts to look out for.
I chose the rear side low. Itson a flat surface, nothing inside to obstruct it, nothing outside to obstruct it and its easy to access.
With the plug, you are not going to be able to get 100% of the fluid out anways. But it sill makes it a less messy job and the pand alot easier to manuever with a little fluid in it as opposed to full. Plus I can tilt it to that side as I remove it to allow maximum drainage.
OK. Location found.
Now drill the hole indicated by the kit.
Deburr the hole. Clean shavings out.
Install the plug, gaskets and nut. I also put a helping of RTV Sealant on the outside edge of the drilled hole. This was for extra insurance from leaks.
Let dry and youre ready to have a much better future tranny servicing.:D

Pan and plug kit :
** Note the pointer at that recessed area. That area is directly under the Servo on the Tranny Case. You will notice on the Case to Pan rim on the Case side there is a small hole. Thats a drain directly from the Servo assembly. Never obstruct this hole. And be sure your pan gaskets also not obstructing it every time you replace it after a service.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-DrainplugKit1.jpg

Plug Kit Installed :
** Note that that pan had seen better days:hypnotize . I was able to clean it up a bit tho.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Tranny%20Stuff/700R4-DrainplugKit2.jpg

OEM Pan Continued :
Ok, another last nota bout the OEM pan is depth. There were 2 different pans used ans its almost impossible to tell them apart with out them being side by side. The deeper one was for 87-later trannys to clear the Aux. VBody.
The way to tell tho is by the magnet guides. The square magnet you can see inside the pan in one corner has 4 right-angle stamped impressions in the pan itself. This is where the magnet sits. If you look at an earlier pan, the 4 right angle corner stamps are equal in size. (you can see this impression from the underside of the pan too) . On the later Aux VBody (sligtly deeper) pan, one right angle corner is shorter.
Most replacement pans are the later style. Its OK to use the later pan on an older tranny. But dont use the earlier pan on a later tranny.

Aftermarket Pans :
There are a few options here. Chrome, Aluminum, Deep, Finned, Cooling, and any combination of those.
Deep will give you extra capacity and will aid in cooling. But check your ground clearance. I couldnt be comfortable on my car using one due to its height.
Aluminum also has cooling properties over steel and most are finned.
Chrome is just for show. IMO they are a waste of money unless you have a lifted show truck.
Thats really about it. Cooling of an aluminum deep pan is almost worth it, but there is only so much that they could do as far as cooling. I wouldnt spend too much on one myself. The cooling gains arent that good to justify cost of them. Id do a seperate cooler that goes inline up front as my 1st cooling mod. If I had the money to spend, then I would so the deep/finned/alum pan second.

Stay Tuned.:bouncy_12 The reassembly is going to begin soon. :crossfing

[Mikz86TA]

The Re-Assembly :

You will want to first soak your clutch friction plates in clean ATF for at least :30 minutes before you install them.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Rebuild%204L60/Install-3SoakClutches15min.jpg

** I started by first by assembleing The Reverse Input Drum. This drum is the one the 2-4 Band clamps against on its outside. So be sure the drums outter surface is smooth like a brake rotor. As noted before, my band gouged mine. This is a brand new one.
** There are 2 copper bearings in the center as you can see. New ones alredy have those installed.
** The Piston as you see on the goes inside the drum as shown. There are Lip Seals in the Pistons outter and inner edges. Use the proper Lip Seal Install tool to guide these in correctly.
** Always lube the seals ans surfaces with ATF.
Next install the Rev In Drum Spring Assembly shown to the right and installed with the springs agaist the Piston.
** Use the Spring Assembly Install Tool to complress it in past the Drums center hub.
** Install the Sprins Assy Clip on the Drum center hub and release the Spring Assy Install tool.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Rebuild%204L60/Install-1ReverseDrumPiston.jpg

** The next pic shows the above Reverse Input Drum componets installed.
** Next we are going to install the Reverse Clutchpack.
** Lay them out as they were removed. Some models have a Bellville Plate on the bottom. Be sure to reuse that one and install it 1st if it applies.
** Then install the Steel Plates and Friction Plates inside the Drum one after another. The Steels have teeth on the outside edge that align with the grooves you see on the outter side / inside the Drum. The Frictions have teeth on the inside. Those will align with another part later.
** The last Top Plate (Selective Backing Plate) goes in last. This one has a number stamped on it. Be sure to reuse the same one that was removed from that specific tranny. This plate is thicker than the rest.
** Last is the Retaining Clip. You may need to press the Clutchpack down a bit to clear the groove in the Reverse In Drum's outter inside edge for the Clip to go into. Start by fitting one side in, press it down as you go around and squeeze it inward. You can use a flatblade screwdriver to assist this installation.
** Finally be sure the Clip is seated in the groove.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Rebuild%204L60/Install-2ReverseClutchPack.jpg

Reverse Input Drum and Clutchpack Fully Installed :

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Rebuild%204L60/Install-4ReverseDrumDone.jpg

[Mikz86TA]

** Next part up is the Input Drum. So you can lay the Reverse Input Drum aside for now.
** The Input Drum is an aluminum drum that the Input Shaft is attached to. The Input Saft is removable, but only with the proper machine. It is un-nessesary to seperate the 2 parts.
** In the pics, you can only see the Drum part. The Shaft is facing downward underneath. Most tranny rebulders have a round hole cut into their workbench so that the Shaft can hang through and the Drum will lay flat on top of the bench. I did somethng like that. Youll figure it out.
** There is an o-ring seal that goes in the bottom of the Drum on the protruding hub. There is also one that goes in the center that looks like a little gear. Its Yellow in the 1st picture.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Rebuild%204L60/Install-5InputDrumSeals.jpg

** There are also 4 Teflon Ring-Type Seals that go on the input shaft. Show White in the picture. There is a special tool to install these. Its very inportant not to screw those up. The install tool is called a Turbine Shaft Seal Installer/Resizer. The install tool is a smooth shaped cone that allows the seals to expand and slide over the shaft onto thier grooves. The resizer part compresses them back to size since the instal tool expands them. Older seals were made with a scarf-cut and didnt require the special tool. But they were notorious for failure. You will understand later why these need to be tight and resized.
There is also a Thrust Washer and Selective Washer (special sized) that go at the base of the Input Shaft. (where I am pointing). Those can go on later tho.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Rebuild%204L60/Install-30InputSealsandBearing.jpg
** After the seals are installed, next comes the 3-4 Apply Shell. This part is a thin-ish stamped steel part. There are a few different ones according to your trannys year. In 87-93 there were 2. They are stamped with a ID number. This is related to the length off the fingers.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Rebuild%204L60/Install-6Input3-4ApplyShell.jpg

** Simply install it with the 4 fingers aligning with the 4 wide slots in the Input Drums housing.
** Next is the 3-4 Apply Shell's Return Spring Assembly.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Rebuild%204L60/Install-7Input3-4Spring.jpg

** Then is the 3-4 Apply Piston.Install as shown.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Rebuild%204L60/Install-8InputForwardHousing.jpg

** Next is the Forward Clutch Piston.Be sure to install the Lip Seals as shown in the manual. Be sure to align the outter teeth of the Piston with the appropriate grooves in the Drum.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Rebuild%204L60/Install-9InputForwardPiston.jpg

[Mikz86TA]

** Next up is the OverRun Piston. It fits ontop of and inside of the previous Forward Clutch Piston. Note that there are round protrusions toward this Pistons center. Youll see why in the next step.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Rebuild%204L60/Install-10InputOverrunPiston.jpg

** Be sure the Lip Seals are properly installed and use the install tool here.
** Next is the OverRun Clutch Return Spring assembly. Fit it to those protrusions on the OverRun Piston. Use the proper Spring INstall tool to compress it down and install the clip.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Rebuild%204L60/Install-11InputOverrunSpring.jpg

** Now we are installing the OverRun Clutchpack. Steel/Friction/Steel/Friction and so forth. There are not many of these and there is no special order other than S/F/S/F. They are however indexed with their teeth as shown in the housing grooves.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Rebuild%204L60/Install-12InputOverrunSteel.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/How%20To/Rebuild%204L60/Install-13InputOverrunFriction.jpg

** The frictions teeth will line up later.

[Mikz86TA]

OK, so thats enough for now. My eyes are on fire.

Please note that you need to also read the instructions of you ATSG Manual for those specific details. There are some measurements of clutchpacks, selective plates and part numbers you may need to refer to.

Also as you may have seen in the pics, I kept a small can next to me with frest ATF and an application brush handy. I would apply some ATF to the Lip Seals, andy contact part and the Steel Plates during the assembly. They do make a special ATF-based assembly lube also. Kinda like a Camshaft Assembly Lube. But its AT-specific.

Keep Checking In =)

[Mikz86TA]

Crap, I realized I never finished the thread! I have all the pics uploaded to PB. Just need to take the time to get this done. I will one day tho :)

[XTREME80]

This is a very good write up, 2 thumbs up.

[russ_2004_85]

i would never... and i say NEVER make an attempt to try and take that on... looks complex. very nice wwrite up tho. you need to finnsh mike!

[Slacker1357]

I cant believe how well of a write up you have going on here...
If I ever meet you... I will get you a 6 pack of whatever you want...

[neo71665]

I cant believe how well of a write up you have going on here...
If I ever meet you... I will get you a 6 pack of whatever you want...


blondes:p

[Jay-Sliver]

Wow. Um, Im just going to stick to my Hydrostats and 3 & 4 Speed manual transmissions with high, med low and creep.

Good job tho so far, very well detailed. Kudo's

Jay

[Mikz86TA]

Thank yall! Hmm...I couuld use a beer right about now..LOL

Maybe Ill have time to finish the writeup on turkeyday

[Zygoat]

looks like you have time now!

[PhilD1954]

It's been a year and I'd like to see you finish this.