anyone know how to swap from manual too power windows and locks?

[***nvp***]

my truck came with dented up rusted manual doors and i replaced them,the new doors have power windows and locks,they cut the wires coming out of the doors,what all do i need?relays?...how do i wire them up??does anybody have a solution??it's an 89 dime...thanks people!!

[Hammer Head]

Welcome to the Planet. Best thing to do is go find a wiring diagram. Maybe you'll be lucky & just be able to wire into the exhisting harness/fuseblock. Good luck.

[Mikz86TA]

What year is your truck?
What year is the doors?

[***nvp***]

truck is an 89...doors come from a blazer i think a 93...not sure they don't have plates on them and the sticker is too faded to read...i'm going by a sticker on the back of the door panel that has 5-20-92 on it..

[Mikz86TA]

I could help with some of the wiring.
The locks are pretty simple. Yes you will need relays, a source of power (fused) and some 14ga wires.
The power windows are a bit more complex but also not that bad. You also need some relays for this, 10ga wire and a couple circuit breakers.
Do you have or can you get a clear picture of your fusebox thats in the truck? If so, post it up. Be sure its well lit when you take the pic, no glare , make is close enough so the fusepanel is the entire pic and be sure the pic is a decent size also for me to see on the computer screen.
Aslo a pic of the wires coming from the door.

[***nvp***]

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3231/2617248042_ae36ed82c9_b.jpghttp://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.editAlbumPhoto&albumID=232382&imageID=4811479driver side

[***nvp***]

pass.sidehttp://farm4.static.flickr.com/3066/2616423187_6772a39022_b.jpg

[***nvp***]

crappy pic of fuse box...i'm trying to get a good one but it's hard...my camera sux i've took a bunch and they all come out fuzzyhttp://farm4.static.flickr.com/3194/2617246908_bc84a7bb2e_b.jpg

[Mikz86TA]

OK, sorry I must have missed this thread again.

Here is the wire colors I see :

Drivers Side : Dark Blue with White stripe, Orange, Gray, Purple with White stripe, Pink, Black, Purple, small Black or something ?? , Light Green, Dark Green, Light Blue, Tan and another Tan??

Sound right...correct any of the ?? ones please.

Passenger Side : Light Blue, Black, Pink, Tan, Gray, Orange, Tan ?? and Dark Blue.

Sound right...correct the ?? one please


OK. Lets break it down.
You have a power locking system that operates from door mounted switches. The pass door switch operates BOTH locks, as does the drivers door switch.
In other words, there are going to be some wires connected together in the lock system from one door to another.

You have a power window system. There is a switch in the drivers door that operates the Drivers window and thats the only switch that does operate the Drivers window. So roughly the drivers Motor and switch are self-contained in the Drivers door.
There is a second switch in the drivers door that operates the Passenger side window. So keep in mind there are going to be a few wires for THAT, which will go accross OUT of the Drivers door and INTO the Passneger door.
In other words, you need some wire to run across behind the dash of that SAME gague.
The passenger door window switch will also operate the pass motor.

Start off by familiarizing the wires and where they come and go from.
Note the colors of wires that come Directly From the power lock actuator (motor) (2 wires) and the ones that come Directly From the power window motor (2 wires).
Have a Voltmeter handy that has a continuity check function. Familiarize yourself with that.

I will break it down by function : Window then Locks
I will list the wire color as I saw it and as I 'know' where they go to.
I will give you some underlying notes of where they go, etc.

[***nvp***]

yes that is correct the driverside has a small black and a black.and that is tan on the pass. side..the doors are from a blazer so there maybe more to control the back doors considering there are window switches for the back doors..

[Mikz86TA]

OK. Got your PM. Please post up what I asked in the reply and we can go from there.
THX, Michel

[***nvp***]

pass.side lockhttp://farm3.static.flickr.com/2140/2634308663_0bbfd7425c_b.jpg

[***nvp***]

pass.side windowhttp://farm4.static.flickr.com/3045/2634309309_1713cd8fc1_b.jpg

[***nvp***]

driverside lockhttp://farm4.static.flickr.com/3127/2635130844_090c55b9c7_b.jpg

[***nvp***]

driverside windowshttp://farm4.static.flickr.com/3057/2634308071_43448bc18a_b.jpg

[***nvp***]

the drivers side window....from left to right on the bottom, brown and blue go to the driverside, tan and blue/white go to the pass.side...as i said the rest go to back doors that aren't there..lol black and pink in the middle from left to right.......brown and blue come out of the window motor on both sides..... orange/black black blue come from both locks as well passengerside window from bottom of pic ,clockwise pink,blue,blue/white,brown,tan

[Mikz86TA]

OK Thanks.
Sorry I was busy. But Ill get on it ASAP.

[Mikz86TA]

OK. Well start by breaking it down into Locks and Windows.

We will do locks 1st since thats easiest due to less wires.

LOCKS :

We have 3 wires that are for the locks as shown on the back of your lock switches.

ORANGE
Lt BLUE
BLACK

Your lock switch is a simple switch. Has one input thats common, and 2 outputs. One out is for lock and the other is for unlock.
The outputs drive a set of relays.
One Lock Relay and one Unlock Relay.

I cant remember at this time if the central relays are located in the door or inside the cab. So lemme investigate.

Heres those wires and where they go for now :

ORANGE = Common Input To the switches. Goes to a 12 volt FUSED source. On the trucks originally, this wire gets its same power from the Courtesy Lamp Fuse in the underdash fusebox. Either remove the fusebox and tap it to the Orange wire that come OUT of that fuse slot OR simply tap it into the Orange wire at the underdash dome lamp. Be sure there is a 20 Amp fuse in the Courtesy Lamp Fuse Slot.
Sorry, picture was to blurry for me to read which one that was.

Lt. BLUE = Output to the LOCK relay. This wire supplies the lock relay the signal needed to activate it. Output signal is 12volts as supplied throught the afformentioned Orange wire input.

BLACK = Output to the UNLOCK relay. This wire supplies the unlock relay the signal needed to activate it. Ditto as above.

Now, since I doubt you have lock relays in your truck, you will need to wire some up.
So what do you have in order to do that?? Well, you have a pair of signal wires from each door ( BLACK and LT BLUE).
What do you need??
1. You will need a pair of 30 amp Bosch-style SPDT relays. Very common and can be found at RadioShack or any elect parts store. You will also need a pair of 10amp DIODES to go along with this. Diodes are small componets and are basically a one-way check valve for electricity.
One alternative is to use a relay pack from Directed Electronics called a 451M. Commonly used in aftermarket alarm system install/intergration into a vehicle. Its basically a pair of relays in one housing which can be wired to various lock/unlock applications. This locking system you have is called Reversing Polarity.
2. Either a 35 amp Circuit Breaker or a Fuseholder and 35 amp fuse.
3. 14 gague wire. This is to run from the unlock relay into BOTH doors to the motor and also enough to run from the lock relay into BOTH doors. Unless you can find the lock motors, trace the wires from those to the door jamb harness, this is the best way for me to show you how to do it. My source has a Tan and Gray going to the lock/unlock motor. These are usually the tan and gray that are 'paired' together as almost one wire and they run along the door to the lock/unlock actuator motor.

It would be good if you pull off the door panel and find those wires and locate the actuators.
The actuators are reversing polarity to work. Basically you can give one wire ground and the opposite power to see if they work. Swap the power and ground to the and they should go the other way.

[***nvp***]

ok great ..the locks do work i have checked them by the method you've described,putting power and ground to both terminals of the lock motor...i will be able to work on them tommorrow when i get off work..i just need to find the relays somewhere...have u got the windows figured out?thanks again sooo much for your help!!i owe yea..

[Mikz86TA]

OK, if you decided you didnt have the stock lock relays anywhere, then I found a schematic of the wireing for them.
This is based on a few things.
First off, you have already found and tested the Tan and Gray wires that go to the lock motors as explained in the last post.
Second off, you have already got POWER to the ORANGE wire at the Switch.
Third, you have run a set of wires from the lock switch's Black(s) and Lt Blue(s) into the truck and to where you intend on putting the relays at.
Fourth, you have run wires from the Tan and Gray wires that are as mentioned the lock motor wires and run them also to where the lock relays are going to be.

And of course you have purchased either a 451M relaypack or bought the mentioned Relays and Diodes from a electronics store.

If using the 451M relaypack, let me know. I can show you a shcmatic on how it wires and/or tell you what wire to connect from it to what you have.

If you bought the Relays , then the attached schematic pic should be what you go by to wire it up.

Your wireing will be very similar. But pay attention to what I say, because its a little bit different.

Lests start off. Look at the attached diagram.
Left Relay in the pic is for LOCK. Your GRAY actuator wires and your Lt BLUE switch wires are going to this relay.
Right Relay in the pic is for UNLOCK. Your TAN actuator wires and your LtBLUE switch wires are going to this relay.

GRAY wires go to the # 30 Terminal of the LOCK Relay (pictured Left)

TAN wires go to the # 30 Terminal of the UNLOCKRelay (pictured Right)

# 87A Terminals as shown will both go to Chassis Ground.

# 87 Terminals as shown will both go to 12 Volts Positive. Run to the 35 AMP fuse or breaker you bought and then to a constant source of 12 Volts. If you cannot find a source that can suffeciently support the 35 AMPS of current, then run the circuit to the Battery.

**** Now this is where ours differs from the pictured one. Our signal from the lock switch is 12 volts and not a ground source as shown in the schematic. So pay attention to the text I write and which terminal to attach where.

# 85 Terminals on BOTH Relays should be connected to Chassis Ground.

Lt BLUE wire from your lock switch should be connected to the # 86 Terminal on the LOCK Relay (pictured Left).

BLACK wire from your lock switch should be connected to the # 86 Terminal on the UNLOCK Relay (pictured Right).

Now as long as you have good Chassis Grounds where applicable, you have good known functional switches and actuators/motors and you have 12V supplied constant to the Orenge wire at the lock switches and also at the relays # 87 Terminals , then you should have functioning locks.
If breaker trips or fuse blows, then you wired something wrong.
Be sure to secure the wires you ran, relays you installed and conections you made.

[Mikz86TA]

Dont worry about the Diodes. You wont need them. Just read my last post and wire them like that. Keep in mind the schematic isnt exact but close. Just read where I said there was a few changes and connect the relays as I described. You should be set. Click on the attached thumbnail for a full-size view. Best thing is to save it to our desktop, open it up in your pic viewer and refer to it while reading my instructions.

(2) 30Amp Bosch relays, wire and the fuse or breaker.

Ill get to figuring out the windows hopefully tonight or tomorrow after my interview.;)


Also a question. Does your drivers window switch assembly have 2 or 4 switches???
ok great ..the locks do work i have checked them by the method you've described,putting power and ground to both terminals of the lock motor...i will be able to work on them tommorrow when i get off work..i just need to find the relays somewhere...have u got the windows figured out?thanks again sooo much for your help!!i owe yea..

[***nvp***]

drivers window switch has four switches

[Mikz86TA]

OK thanks. Thats helpful

[Mikz86TA]

OK. On the windows.

LF Switch Panel :

Pink = 12V + Switched Power off 30amp breaker or fuse
Black = Ground to the body.
* the black and pink are the input to the switch. Those are the wires going into the back center of the switch as you have pictured.

Dk Blue = Goes to the drivers door motor. This is the UP signal
Brown = Goes to the drivers ddo motor. This is the DOWN signal
*these should be within the door. go direct from the switch to the motor.

Lt Blue or Blue-White = Should go out of the door at the boot. Run to the pass door and connect to the Lt Blue/Blue-White on the passenger switch.
Tan = Should also go out the door boot. Run to the passenger side and connect to the Tan on the passenger switch.

RF Switch Panel :

You should have the Tan and the LtBlue/Boue-White already connected as instructed B4. So the only thing to do now is give that switch its own independent power and ground.

Pink = 12V + Switched Power off same 30amp breaker or fuse
Black = Chassis Ground

Be sure to cap off the unused Purple, Lt Purple/Purple-White, Dk Green and Lt Green wires that come off the drivers power window switch panel. They are for the rear windows. And would be live in the event you press those switches.

[***nvp***]

you are the man!!!i can't express my gratatude..thank you for all your time and effort!!i really do owe you big time!!!i'll let yea know how it goes..i probably won't have time to work on it till tommorrow when my old lady is home from work and can watch my little boy

[Mikz86TA]

No worries.
Let me know how it goes and if you run into any issues.