2.8 Top End Job.

[shortygy]

Hey Guys,

I havn't been on any of the boards for a while as my Jimmy was hibernating. I have decided to rebuild the Top End as I suspected it was leaking at the intake mani gasket.

Monday I removed all of the Top end and decided to do the head gaskets at the same time (while im in there).

My question is ......

I have it all apart and there is a lot of carbon deposits and sludge sitting on the top of the cam area/ port areas. What is the best way to clean all of this crud off flush it through and I guess remove the oil pan and dump it through there????


One of the guys on the BL forum recommended pluggin the cam holes and vacuuming the crud ??? Any other suggestions?


Thanks.

[Tink]

The vacuuming sounds like a good idea to me... I've always just picked it out and cleaned it up the best I could with rags.

[shortygy]

Ok Thanks.

[neo71665]

I used a 16 gallon craftsman shop vac when doing top end rebuilds.

[Danzcameo]

The shop vac work's well,I've done it that way in the past,just pick at it while hoovering up the crap. I've also taken the head's to the self-serve carwash and pressure washed them that work's pretty well but messy.:D

[shortygy]

I now have another issue. I have 75% of everything back together and I am now trying to do the valve lash. I am finding that I do it in the order the book tells you. For example .... Cyl 1 TDC on comp stroke adjust intake valves until no slack and then 3/4 turn on cylinder 1,3,6. Then I go back and check #1 again and its loose???

[maknablaz]

Since no else has replied I will give it a shot at helping you.:D My Chiltons says to get the #1 to compression(TDC) like you have done but it says to adjust the intake valves 1, 5, & 6, then exhaust valves 1, 2, & 3. Turn the engine crankshaft to the #4 fire TDC position and adjust intake valves 2, 3, & 4, then exhaust valves 4, 5, & 6.

I cannot see where the #1 would lossen up in any order they are done, unless the lifter is some how weak and allowing it to loosen, or you are not on the compression stroke for #1 when you are setting the lash? Are you turning the crank then finding it is loose? The lifters are hydrulic and will "pump up" after oil pressure is reached and is why you set the lash at specific crank/cam positions.

Also, the chiltons says to turn the the adjuster an additional 1.5 turns after all the lash has been removed but I have always done 3/4 on small blocks, so I don't know. There are people on here with a lot more knowledge on this subject if they chose to post.

[Jay-Sliver]

with the 2 4.3's and the 5.0 I put in my old sierra, i always spun the pushrod with my fingertips untill it got snug, then went 3/4 turn more. Each cylinder has to be at TDC when you do it this way..

Jay