98 2.2 ac problems

[98sonoma2.2]

ok i bought the truck and the ac was cold but i knew it could have been colder and the summer was sneekin up on me.so i just took it to jiffy lube and had them put a vacum on it and refill it.was colder for about 2 days them i looked under the hood and there was fluid leaking out the back of the compressor and the high side valve. now my ac is like a heater.now there is no r134 in it at all.so i replaced the two rings on the compressor and bought 2 new high and low side caps(they never put them back on)and i went to refill it myself and now my compressor doesnt turn on at all. anyone know what could have cause this to happen any input would be helpfull.

[Nickelin'Dimer]

Okay... Let's see how much Auto Climate-Control I remember:

Does the compressor-clutch engage when you switch the system on? If not, the low-pressure cut-out switch (Found on the Accumulator) is sensing too-low of pressure on that side & perventing engagement. The compressor totally freezing is a rare thing, usually occuring because of lack of proper amount of oil in the system. But I don't think that's the case here.

When you refilled the system, you evacuate it fully? If not, there's part of your problem right there! Remember: An A/C system must contain no air at all for it to work properly. Anytime you go to crack the seal on the system, it should always be dramn-down fully & then filled with filtered air the ports & hose ends capped to prevent contamination.

After replacing the seals (You did oil them with clean hands, and with R134a oil, right?) it should have been drawn-down fully & then refilled to the proper amount of freon with the proper amount of oil (Found on the under-hood sticker). The best way to do this is at a shop that has one of the big machines on casters that can do it all & recycle whatever existing freon back into the system, all without really breaking the seal!

Oh, and about that high-side valve... The schrader-valve insert (Like found in your tire stems) needs replacement, not the caps. The shop should have the tool to remove & install it, but you'll hafta get the replacement first. And is there signs of oil & possibly greasy dirt on the compressor case? If so, you have one with leaky assembly seals, and that's gonna need replacement for sure, along with all the other work. Not to mention the accumulator, since if you didn't draw-down & cap the system properly the disecant-bag has gotten contaminated & must be replaced when it does.

Sorry, pal... Looks like you opened one really big can of worms. But that's what happens when you try to do something like that yourself without proper training & equipment. Like my dad once said, there's two ways to pay for what you learn: Before you try to do it yourself in a course of study, and after you try to without study & gotta make repartations for what you did.

[98sonoma2.2]

no compressor clutch doesnt come on.and jiffy lube put a vacum on it and refilled it before i ever messed with it.and all the freon leaked out within 2 days. thats what i dont get....my ac was fine until they did the refill and it all was downhill from there.and i did replace the low side valve but the high side is a valve with a small rubber ball in it.didnt mess with it..

[Nickelin'Dimer]

Hmmm... Stuck valve, maybe? That's kinda what it seems like at this point.

No, it's more than that now. And that small rubber ball that seems stuck inside is just a rubber disc that acts like a secondary seal for when the screws on the A/C service gauge set hoses are turned in to press against to cause the valve to open. If the valve stuck slightly (Which they do sometimes), there's where your freon went, I'll bet.

Still, anytime you service A/C the system must be brought-down fully, filled with filtered air, disconnected parts immediately capped, and brought-down again once reassembled then filled with the proper amount of oil & freon. Then, using a meat-style thermometer placed in the vent nearest to the evaporator/blower motor housing, run the A/C at Max with the temperature control set at full cold & the fan on the highest setting. The thermometer should read 32*F before the system cycles the compressor clutch off, causing the needle to rise slightly before it cycles on again. Hold the engine's throttle at about 2000-2200rpm while doing this to ensure that the cooling fan is at the minimum speed necessary to effectively pull enough air through the condenser core to achieve maximum A/C cooling.

If all checks out under the hood (Pressure-wise) and it still don't get cool enough, it's in the cold-air door control & you'll hafta start pulling the dash apart to check that.

I've given you just about all I can about A/C service, and I hope you understand it fully & are able to find where the problem lies with your system and fix it properly. But somehow (No offence), I think you'd be better-off if you just took it to a reputable A/C service shop to have it done instead of trying to do it yourself. Good luck & hope you regain your cool!

[lil red 10]

Most likely the High side line is leaking at the high side fitting, or you have a leak on the suction side of the compressor. That is what I find on most 2.2L S-10s to be the problem. The clutch isn't kicking in because the low side pressure is too low for the clutck cycling swith to engage the clutch. Without a A/C reclaiming system and the proper tools it is difficult to service most A/C problems.

32*F is incorrect. Ambient temp. has a lot to do with the ideal temperature. It is usually the actual temp -30 degrees. Say it is 85 degrees outside the system should cool at or near 55 degrees.

[Nickelin'Dimer]

^Well, no one's perfect.

[lil red 10]

I've given you just about all I can about A/C service, and I hope you understand it fully & are able to find where the problem lies with your system and fix it properly. But somehow (No offence), I think you'd be better-off if you just took it to a reputable A/C service shop to have it done instead of trying to do it yourself. Good luck & hope you regain your cool!

Well stated and Good advice.:) Trying a DIY on HVAC usually costs more in the long run than having a professional do it. Cuts down on heat related aggrevation too.:crazy_125

[98sonoma2.2]

still ahvent got it fixed moneys tight but im looking on the bright side falls almost here. haha

[Nickelin'Dimer]

That's the spirit!

[Stevonator]

Here's one that wouldn't surprise me....First problem is you let Jiffy Lube charge it. Granted GOOD AC techs that know what their talking are sometimes hard to come by. It's an industry problem. I train technicians and am appauled at times at the skill level or lack thereof in AC. Being able to hook up an AC machine DOES NOT make you an AC tech. On most compressors there is a high pressure relief valve on the back (not the high side schrader.) If it's leaking from the relief it usually means they overcharged it and it now needs a compressor.....because THEY blew it up. If it is the schrader leaking then it's possible it just didn't seat when they unhooked the hoses. Regardless, YOU SHOULD HAVE TAKEN IT BACK AND MADE THEM MAKE IT RIGHT. You brought them a functioning system and 2 days later it is NON fuctioning.

The clutch WILL NOT engage if the refrigerant charge is low. The refrigerant circulates the PAG oil that keeps the compressor alive.....No refrigerant, no oil flow = dead compressor... so the system shuts down the compressor to protect it.