Mileage?

[LEADFOOT]

Hello everyone. I havent posted in awhile but Ive been around. Damn this place has grown. I'm kinda maxed out on bolt-ons so I have been thinking about the Wynjammer and a cam. I have roughly 124k miles on my ride. I have a leadfoot. I do keep up on the maint., its gotten Mobil 1 15/50 since the day i bought it (it was 2yrs old, 21k miles). It was a lease turn in, so it was bone stock when i got it and was owned by an older female. I'm wondering what the mileage is on other s/c rides. I'm looking for reassurance that my motor is not to old to be s/c'ed. I just read that, I think it was D-caf that said he had over 120k on his. I know he was one of the firsts to get the wynjammer. I dont have any out of the ordinary noises going on, motor runs great. It is my daily driver, but I don't drive far. Maybe 10 miles a day if that. Let me know what ya'll think. I wanna be blown too!!!:D

[King_Ice_flash]

I don't see anything in your profile that really adds power, so you still should be OK on the fuel injector side.

124K is nothing for these trucks as long as they are well maintained and you keep an eye on the intake manifold gaskets.

[D-Caf]

If your engine has been well maintained then you'll have no problem adding a wynjammer to it and not blowing the engine. I have around 130K on mine, and had 110K when I first put the Wynjammer on.

There had been several issues with bearing lately from Wynjammer, but the last batch seems to have finally gotten things straight. So far no one reporting bearing issues again. I never had issues, but mine is the older design from a few years back.

As for gas mileage, if you take it easy city driving will stay about the same. It can actually improve on the highway, if you keep your foot off it. Given you name, that may be difficult, so expect some decrease in milage.

[LEADFOOT]

Cool. I had to do the intake gasket already. Did that about 3 months ago. Was having to add water about every 2 wks, then got to be once a wk. Couldnt figure out where it was going untill I saw water and bubbles coming from the area where the intake meets the head. Wow, that was fun. Got my power back. Runs better now.

Would I need more fuel support if I added a cam and s/c? I put the newer injector setup in it. It has the injectors at the end of the tube instead of the poppets. I have an oil pan gasket leak I need to resolve.

I have the HPPIII and was wondering if I can still use it with the Jammer pcm? I still want the ability to change my shift points.

Also was wondering if I could go to 8psi safely, w/out having to upgrade the fuel system.

Im gonna call Al on monday and talk it over with him to see what my options are.

[LEADFOOT]

Wide band, is that the O2 sensor? Yes, bad ass custom built tranny, no need for shift improvement, barks 2nd w/out trying, will snap a neck loose when floored and shifts to 2nd, all the gears hit hard I love it. Some people think it is a manual tranny.
So the programmer is only needed for the shift points, tire size, gear change, and I guess I wont need it for the 93 octane deal.

[12sws27]

My 2000 4dr Blazer has 70k on it. I'll be switching the Jammer over to my newly acquired 98 2dr Jimmy sooner or later. The Jimmy has 117k miles, I'm not worried.

I was 1 of those with bearing issues. Ive been thinking more and more lately that i was over tightening the belt. Al is using bearings that or supposedly more forgiving to an over tightened belt. I got my charger back this time with those new bearings a made absolutely sure the belt was not to tight. I haven't had a problem since and feel confident that I wont.

I completly back every thing Dogsofjune has posted. I didnt take his advice on the wideband and have worried about my air/fuel many times. I bought so much stuff that I ran outta money and couldnt afford one. I've tired to sell my Ign box so I can get one and have had no luck. So now I'll just keep it. I guess it is atleast good for the rev limiter in case I break a U-joint or something.

The HPP3 adds timing. To much timing + forced induction + not enough fuel = a big no no! I believe the tune you get with the Jammer which is programmed by PCM4less removes timing.

[King_Ice_flash]

*Vultures circle* Let me know if you are selling the pulleys for cheap.

[12sws27]

*Vultures circle* Let me know if you are selling the pulleys for cheap.
God damn it! Why didnt I think of that. I forgot I was gonna need a set to go back on my 2000 when I switch the Jammer to the 98. I gotta try to remember that next time. :) I aint buying them new again.

[King_Ice_flash]

I could give you the stock ones off of mine when I get a nice under drive set :D

[12sws27]

I could give you the stock ones off of mine when I get a nice under drive set :D
Bah! rub it in why dont ya? :p

[LEADFOOT]

Thanks for all the support.

I got tired of burning up high dollar plugs so now I only buy ngk vpower plugs. MSD6a would eat them up. I also went to a one step colder plug.

I'll give Al a call on Monday and talk this over with him. Let him know what I got and go from there. Maybe he could recommend a cam. Roughly, what would a cam setup cost? Whats that meth kit stuff run?


All of the sudden I see more dollar signs than I thought I would.

[King_Ice_flash]

Plan on 600-1200 for a cam.

You will need a cam, gaskets and push rods, springs, retainers, timing chain at a minimum. With some of the newer retainers, you don't need to machine the valve guides down clear. Otherwise, you will also have to have the valve guides machined, and while the heads are off, you might as well have them ported. On my '94 CPI, we got about 40 HP out of it just from head/cam.

I would just called Comp directly and ask what they recommend for a cam. They will need to know where you are looking for the power (High, mid, low), how much boost you are running, how you drive it... etc, and come up with custom grind numbers for you.

If you don't have the money up front, you can always just add the SC now, and if it still isn't enough power, do the heads/cam later.

[12sws27]

with what you got now it seems like your pretty much set up with what you would need. I would suggest just getting the Jammer, selling the pulleys and HHP3. You wont need either any more. The PCM will be tuned for your gears and tranny and what not. You should at least get $200 for that. Add a bit to that $200 and you got your wide-band. Then you can think about a cam later on down the road when you want more power.

One question, your trans doesn't shift weird with out some of the torque management removed?
Mine did before the tune. Now when it shifts it lunges forward when it shifts. Before the TM would try to soften the shift and it would feel like it would hesitate right before shift change then slam into gear. Front of the truck would even do a very small nose dive then shift.

[94s10]

compression test has been the best recommendation so far. lots of times the looser tolerances of an older motor goes well with boost

my motor had 40k on it when i boosted it. i've put another 40k or so on it since. at least 10k of that has been at 20+ psi, the rest atleast 15+ psi

[12sws27]

Originally Posted by Dogsofjune http://www.s10planet.com/forum/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showthread.php?p=180696#post180696) I'd keep the HPPIII, or at least exchange it for something that reads DTC's. It'll be useless for it's programming purposes, but having the ability to change tire size, or gears, rev limit, etc. is nice to have until you find a replacement.

Good point, I already had a good scanner so I didnt need the HPPIII for that. Plus I needed the cash.




Originally Posted by Dogsofjune http://www.s10planet.com/forum/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showthread.php?p=180696#post180696) To answer your question on the torque management. TM pulls timing to protect the drivetrain. Mine shifts beautifully with it completely removed.
What you describe sounds more like a need to tweak shift points possibly. Hard to tell.


IDK how much TM is pulled out or if it completly diabled but it shifts fine the way it is. I had a real hard time trying to put into words how it shifted with the factory tune. It just shifted wierd. It would probably help alot to mess with the shift points. I think I remember asking them to leave them stock. When I wanna run it hard I shift manualy any how. But they do seem higher then stock. I think 1st to 2nd is 5400 something. Right under 5500. I feel its to high.




Originally Posted by Dogsofjune http://www.s10planet.com/forum/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showthread.php?p=180696#post180696) Best way to find out is do some data logging and watch what's going on. Know anyone with HPTuners or EFILive?
There are all kinds of variables that influence timing on our rides.


I wish I knew someone with HP or EFI. I'd lto own it my self even more so. Maybe one day. Right now I dont even have a laptop so it would cost me some bucks to get it all. I am curious about EFI Live. Im I wrong or do you not need a laptop to tune with it? I understand you dont but to save multiple tunes you do. Or i'm I way off?

[King_Ice_flash]

Yes, with EFILIVE, you still need a laptop to edit the tune, but you can load multiple tunes on to the flash tool (V2) and load the new ones without the laptop. You can do logging without a laptop also, but it is kind of limited to the resolution of the data since the processor inside of it is so weak.