Rentedmule's 03 sonoma

[rentedmule]

I figured I'd start a project thread since I'll be doing a bunch of little things to the truck that don't warrant new threads every time.

New ebay billet grill went in today when I was supposed to be at work :D

This is an old pic - the black paint was chipped pretty badly on the shell and the GMC letters
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6300248.jpg

new
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301346.jpg

I had to repainted the shell all black as well. Now I just need to find a cheap envoy bumper :)

[12sws27]

Was the insert black already? Is that the one where you have to cut out the original grill? What other plans besides an envoy bumper cover you got instore for the noma?

DOJ, sell a ford then get a 2nd gen GMC. Have both:D

[12sws27]

Phhffffft, sell all three and get a G8 ST with a Kenne Bell
yeah but... there might be a bunch of after market companies that make a variety of quality performance parts. Then it would take out all the fun when modding....:rolleyes:

I've thought several times about selling the Dakota and Jimmy and putting a down payment on a used late model SS Camaro.

[rentedmule]

The front of the billet is polished but the rest of it is black. I did have to cut out the center of my original grill and bolt it in, it was a bit of a PITA but not too bad. The grill was originally chrome and I repainted it black last year but the sand on the roads here in the winter is brutal on the front end.

I have poly swaybar bushings that will go on tomorrow but that's as far ahead as I've thought. The weather has really cooled down here now and it makes a big difference in how the truck runs. It feels alot stronger and the tires are suffering for it :D

I'm always thinking about about trading in my schizz for a late model mullet mobile with a blower and/or spray but I love being able to throw crap in the back of the truck! Some day I may do the same thing that DOJ is planning but I gots no cash at the moment

[12sws27]

I got lucky. My grill is color matched. I was thinking about getting a mesh insert and painting it black.
I'll be watching out for this thread. How's the homemade meth/water injection system coming along? Wait.. that's gonna be for the T/A huh?

[rentedmule]

yeah, the old T/A is suffering from serious knock issues. Sounds like someone crushing pop cans under the hood when I go into boost. I need a new PEVR valve before I put the meth to it - it's the bit that lets the carb richen the mixture without the normal vacuum signal under boost.

[BigTruckDrivah]

Its hard to pay attention to the grill with all that alluminum tubing under the hood I'm trying to see,lol. Nice man

[Mikz86TA]

Looks sweet! Thats what I liked about the Sonoma. If the dealer here hadnt been a total douchebag group, Id have a GMC.
Im happy with what I got tho.

[rentedmule]

Got the energy suspension swaybar bushings in as some may have seen from my other thread. Thanks for the part # Mike, I probably wouldn't have thought of trying the 4x4 kit.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301357.jpg

damn it's dirty/greasy/rusty under there :o

[LowSDime97]

I wished I had gotten a Sonoma over the S-10. I think the front ends look better.
X2 i also agree

[Mikz86TA]

They all get that way. GM uses some crappy black chassis paint these days. It seemed to wear off mine quickly after I bought the truck.
I painted my sway bars while I had them off. But it kinda made the rest under there look worse. LOL
Did you get the rear sway bushings too or jus the front 4 now?

[rentedmule]

Just the fronts for now. I'll get the rears eventually but these were in stock locally so I grabbed them.

[rentedmule]

I made some cash on flea-bay selling some extra blower pullies I had so I decided I'm finally going to redo my charge tubing.

The current setup has been hacked over by the past few owners and I'm suffering from substantial hood-clearance issues - the bonnet has always rattled against the hood and it's pretty annoying.

old setup originally made by PEP - I guess they do alot of sy/ty work.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6300658.jpg

I'm going to use a reinforced silicone 3.5-3.0" 90 degree elbow off of the TB and attach it with t-bolt clamps. It should sit well over an inch lower than my current setup.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/90_reducer_blue_picture.jpg

That will go into a 3" cast aluminum 90 degree elbow. It's not as pretty as the polished aluminum stuff but the cast tubes are thick enough to drill and tap for my meth nozzle and the ends have a lip on them to stop the couplers from popping off.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/cast-eb-90.jpg

That elbow will couple to another piece with a greddy BOV flange cast into it. The current flange looks like it was welded on by a blind chimp and I've had to JB weld a bunch of leaks in the past little while.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/97cd_1.jpg


As soon as all the bits arrive I'll post up a pic of the install :).

[12sws27]

Yay! Now that the Pontiac is gone, the GMC gets some attention! I'll be watching :) Are you going to show how you recirculate that BOV. I was curious as to how you did it.

[rentedmule]

Totally true, that dirty T/A was hogging all my time! I'll post up some pics of the recirc setup later today or tomorrow.

[12sws27]

Yay! Now that the POS rust bucket Pontiac is gone, the GMC gets some attention! I'll be watching :) Are you going to show how you recirculate that BOV. I was curious as to how you did it.
This is what I was going to post. But changed it at the last moment :D

[rentedmule]

can't fault you for speakin' the truth!!!

[12sws27]

Now if we can just get Mike to stop messing with his.....:p

[Mikz86TA]

NEVER!!!



TransAm until I die! Ive had premenitions of me dying in it doing 140 into a tree. Thats scary.

[Zygoat]

i hit 150 in my old z28.

[rentedmule]

you're both nuts

[12sws27]

Me and Tyson are gonna hit 150 in or trucks one day! :p

[rentedmule]

yep - just an instant before I realize that the clunking coming from my swaybar will lead to a catastrophic suspension failure and my untimely death :eek:

[12sws27]

Ah but what away to go! Be sure to get a vid of it when it happens.

[Zygoat]

Ah but what away to go! Be sure to get a vid of it when it happens.


dam thats rough.

[12sws27]

dam thats rough.
I'd do it for y'all! :D

[Bootlegger's Deluxe]

VIDS or BAN Scott!!

[firefighter]

I got busted doing 128 and climbing (as the State Trooper put it) in the Old Brick. Damn sometimes I miss that bisch.

[rentedmule]

Scott - here are the pics of the BOV recirc setup

ghetto adapter - made from the tapered end of a dishwasher drain-hose and heater hose :D I really didn't want to pay $10 plus $50 shipping for the proper fitting from some ebay crook
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301383.jpg
I have no idea what that white crap is on the front of my A/C compressor :confused:


This is where it's plumbed back into the intake upstream of the headunit - there was already a fitting there for the crank-case vent so I used that.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301384.jpg

[Bootlegger's Deluxe]

Beautiful pipework...

[12sws27]

I know DOJ said my bosch unit was good enough and I dont doubt his advice at all. But wouldn't a BOV work better? It sure would look better. The aluminum bonnet Al from Wynjammer sells is $113. I'm not sure if he charges extra to tap it for the bosch presure relief valve I have or not but the bonnet with a BOV already on it is $135. Unless the hold down bracket isn't included. Then it'd be $48 more making it $183 and probably not worth it.

[Zygoat]

bypass valves are better.

[rentedmule]

I've been making some progress on the new intake. It's taken a while since I decided that the dull cast aluminum wasn't going to cut it - I sanded everything down and polished it as best I could to match the rest of the tubing.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301426.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301428.jpg

I already have it tapped for the meth nozzle and the IAT sensor.

I also "ported" the ends of the cast pieces, they were really thick and looked like they'd hurt flow. I used a flap wheel to smooth out the insides as well, there was some nasty casting flash in there.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301423.jpg

I should have it on the truck in the next few days. I still need to do some tinkering with the BOV tube, it may be a bit long to fit properly.

[Zygoat]

good, i always hated the little bit of intake you are replacing (no offense). i just didn't think it was good enough for the rest of the car.

this looks good tho.

[Cameo_S10]

Nice work!:cool:

[12sws27]

I think you did a pretty good job of polishing it myself. I think it looks awesome. BTW, I starting on my Baja mounts. I'll probably do what I can a few minutes a day if I can till I get a few hours to mess with the truck on Wednesday. I let you now how it goes. I'll try to snap some pics of stuff I think will help you do yours. Right now the number one thing that you really should get is RATCHET WRENCHS!. If you ain't got none, go get some. It will make life alot easier.

[Mikz86TA]

Looks nice. Is that silicone boot a pre-formed 90*?

[Zygoat]

yes

[rentedmule]

Yeah, everything came from ebay except the vibrant couplers which I got locally to match the rest of my intake.

I also hate the old bonnet, the welds sucked, it hit the hood and it looked like crap. I'm hoping this one will sit a bit lower but it's going to be close.

Scott - I'd appreciate the pics on the motor mount install when you do it. I still don't have ratchet wrenches but they're the next tool on my list to buy. I could have used them a few times already!

[rentedmule]

Booo-urns! Worked on the new charge tubing for about 4 hours today and there's now way I can make it functional. The 90 degree boot is just going to blow off the first time I boost it. I was hoping the t-bar clamps would hold it but with the shape of the TB lip the boot just slides up as I tighten the clamp down. To be honest it didn't look great either, everything was too cramped togather.

So after all that messing around I have the old setup back on! I did do the TB blade mod while I was in there though so it wasn't a total loss. Motor mounts and e-fan are next!

[12sws27]

Sorry to hear about the charge pipe Tyson. Feel free to ask me all the question you want to about the mounts.

[rentedmule]

Installed my E-fans today. Flex-a-lite FLX210 duals with a Maradyne controller/harness. They cover the entire rad and are even a hair big horizontally. The install was pretty easy aside from some minor bugs that I eventually got figured out. Multimeters really are useful, even if you're mechanically/electrically retarded like me! I still have to deal with the lower shroud, it's just sitting there crammed down by the fan right now.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301442.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301443.jpg

Temp switch and fuse block thingy that come with the harness mounted beside fuse box so they're easy to reach for adjustments.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301444.jpg

Relay block mounted beside the ABS stuff
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301445.jpg

I had all the wiring loomed and hidden but then I had to rip it all apart to figure some things out. I'll redo the loom tomorrow, I lost daylight.

I still haven't hooked up the A/C switch part of it. I tried tapping into the clutch switch on the front of the compressor but I think I need to add a diode to the circuit. When I plugged that into the fan harness it turned the fans on all the time, even when the compressor wasn't engaged. It's been hovering just above 0 celcius here so I doubt it'll be an issue for a while.

[Bootlegger's Deluxe]

Mounts installed???

[spideyjected]

New engine mounts are for wimps!

[Bootlegger's Deluxe]

Chain the B!tch down!

[rentedmule]

lol, mounts still aren't in. That's next, I swear!

[12sws27]

I envy your fan :) Looks good! I've needed this mod along time ago. Every time i talk to Al Martin (Wynjammer guy) He asks me if I've got a E-fan yet. I'm more hesitant to do a fan then mounts. Something about electrical stuff, I just never feel confident about doing it.

[rentedmule]

I'm the opposite - the last few chassis things I've tried have been miserable ordeals and the last few wiring things have been easy :)

Starting with a good harness helped me alot. It was something like $60 but it came with everything and all the wires were labelled. All I needed was a few more feet of 10G wire, some spade connectors and a bunch of heat shrink tubing. I've also read every single how-to and install thread on E-fans that I've seen for the past year so I had a pretty good idea of what I was getting into.

[Mikz86TA]

thats what Im here fer

[rentedmule]

exactly!

[Zygoat]

12, just let me know man. ill help you figure it out. e fans are cake. pm me or whatever and ill do up a diagram or whatever you need to help you get it sorted out. (if you didn't live so far away i would do it for you).

[Bootlegger's Deluxe]

12, just let me know man. ill help you figure it out. e fans are cake. pm me or whatever and ill do up a diagram or whatever you need to help you get it sorted out. (if you didn't live so far away i would do it for you).

He's in Miami, Zy, thats not far, right???

[Zygoat]

only like 2/3 of the country.

[rentedmule]

Ok, new shoes are officially bought :D

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/ZO6shoes.jpg

'03 ZO6's with 265/40-17 front, 295/35-18 rear Eagle F-1's. If you didn't see my other thread they are damaged but easily repairable. I'm going to sell my T/A wheels and spacers to pay for that and new spacers when I figure out what I need.

I think $200 (Canadian) was a pretty damn good deal considering the tires only have 10K Kms on them - they look much better in person than they do in that pic! I'll have them checked to make sure there aren't any broken beads but they look ok.

It's always fun meeting people when buying parts - the guy wrecked his vette with 10K on the clock, bought a camaro SS and hated it because it was slow so he sold it and bought an '87 Grand National so he "could have something with a back seat for his kids"!!!

[87wildside]

That bastard had my top 3 favorite cars.

[stealthsuper]

Sweet truck Bro. Love the front in not to mention the supercharger setup.

[12sws27]

Can't wait to see them on! You plan on painting them like you did the others?

[rentedmule]

I think so, I want them either grey or black.

[12sws27]

Got to be grey. :D

[Bootlegger's Deluxe]

wheres the old wheels heading off to??

[rentedmule]

Gonna sell them to pay for the repairs/spacers. I'd give to them to any of you guys cheap but the shipping would kill, it would be ~$200 to ship across the border

[rentedmule]

teaser pics :D

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/IMG_0417.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/IMG_0420.jpg

Maybe needs another 0.5" on the spacer?
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/IMG_0419.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301447.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301446.jpg

May work ok with just the 2" but I'm not sure what clearance will be like during sharp turns
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301450.jpg

winter vs. summer
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/IMG_0421.jpg

[87wildside]

Looks like you have to lower it some more. They look damn nice on there though.

[rentedmule]

Thanks! Yeah, there was alot of wheel well space with the T/A wheels as well. It would be nice to have it a few inches lower but it'll probably be a while before I get to that.

[King_Ice_flash]

Was going to say... you better not be driving those in the snow.

[12sws27]

What about taller tires? That'll fill the gap. I want to know a size tire thats just under 28" od for 17's and 18's for future referance myself. I really dont want to run much shorter than 28". If you decide to go taller fill me in.

[rentedmule]

I did check on taller tires but these ones still have some life in them so I'll probably run them as is. I definately wouldn't sink in deep snow with those monsters on the back!

I'm expecting to have to move for work in the next 6 months so I don't want to go lower and lose any towing/hauling capacity. I've been applying for jobs all over Canada and the US so another move or 2 is inevitable in the next few years.

[DiCi21]

teaser pics :D

Maybe needs another 0.5" on the spacer?
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/IMG_0419.jpg


I have 2 inch spacers on the back. Is that what you have on there? Cuz that's basically exactly how mine looks and i haven't had any problems, but i did have to grind down a stud on the frame on the back driver's side that was rubbing on the tire. I also asked a manager at discount tire if it was too close and he said as long as it isn't touching it will be fine... because the tires don't move side to side, they stay with the frame.

[rentedmule]

Cool, thanks for the info Matt. That is mounted with the same 2" spacers I was using with my T/A wheels. What size tire are you running on the front? Do you think that 265 will be too wide?

[DiCi21]

mine is a 265/35-18, so no it's not too wide, and i have a 2.5 inch spacer. I think a 2 inch will probably work, but you might not be able to turn all the way. The reason I got a 2.5 inch spacer is cuz i wanted the front and back wheels to stick out the same. (So the fronts weren't in more than the backs)

[rentedmule]

Thanks!

[rentedmule]

Well Eric and Scott (and Lee :( ), I finally changed my driver's side motor mount this afternoon!:icon_viki

The original mount was about 1/2 pulled apart but still in one piece - I'll post some pics later. The stockers are pretty flimsy though, I could lever it over in either direction with just my hand.

The install wasn't bad really, it just required patience and alot of different length socket/ratchet combos to reach all the bolts without running into things. Ratcheting wrenches helped an incredible amount, I can't imagine how annoying it would be to do it without them actually. Getting the Baja Customs mounts in was a joke compared to taking the OEM crap out!

I took it for a drive and I all I can say is it's loud! It sounds like I have a completely different exhaust from inside the cab - there's alot of "growling" at low RPMS and a hell of alot more vibration in the cab, even with just the one mount in. I like it but I'm not sure what the GF will think about it. The whole truck feels so much more solid though and throttle response is really improved. You can actually feel the difference just idling along our bumpy street.

I'm still getting a rattle/vibration somewhere when the truck is in gear with my foot on the brake. It's not missing and it feels stronger than ever but I think I'll check the plugs just in case the months of running it untuned fouled them or something.

[12sws27]

Awesome! :) I cant wait to put mine to the test when I get the Jimmy moving. I've had to baby the Blazer since the mounts are busted on it now. :(

[spideyjected]

I'm only "the other Eric", but Good to hear never the less!

[King_Ice_flash]

Wow, those back tires don't even rub in a hard corner?

I think I might get a 4WD axle for mine.

[rentedmule]

I'm not sure if the 265's will rub, I haven't actually driven with them yet. Yeah, I had stock mounts before. There is quite a bit more vibration and noise and the cab but the charge tubing doesn't hit the hood under load any more so that's one thing fixed. Hopefully I won't find it too annoying during normal driving. It's probably possible to replace the poly inserts with rubber....

[87wildside]

Is the passenger side mount in yet????:)

[stealthsuper]

I like your truck Tyson, Very clean with that blue truck/silver wheels. pretty wide. .. I had the same issues with the tie rod ends and clearance. front wheels are 17x8's backs are 18x10.5.

[rentedmule]

Thanks Josh!

With the amount of vibration from just changing the driver's side I'm definately not putting the passenger side mount in. I'm not sure if it would make a difference anyway, the engine doesn't move at all when I hit the throttle. This is still a daily driver so it's gotta stay civilized!

[stealthsuper]

I hear that , mine is gonna be track/weekends and some when its nice out.

[87wildside]

X2.

[rentedmule]

It should only squish it, not lever on it though, shouldn't it? I had the hood open and revved it and the engine literally doesn't move at all - I can't imagine it's stressing the other mount. I'm hanging on to the other Baja Customs mount anyway so if it goes I'll just throw that in.

[87wildside]

I was thinking it might on decel. With a manual trans it would if you down shift while stopping but you have a slush box so probably not much to worry about.

[rentedmule]

Pics of the old mount starting to seperate
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301456.jpg

comparison shot
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301457.jpg

didn't take any pics of the install since Scott posted lots of his.

[12sws27]

That's how my pass side looked. My drivers side was completely separated.

I would worry about having that weak ass stock mount on the pass side. What if you have to give it a little throttle while you have a load in the back? What if you get a little stuck in some snow/mud?

Since it already vibrates a lot, how much can putting the pass side on make a difference? BTW, the pass side is a lot easier the install. As long as the starter is out the way.

Did you put the heat shields back on? I originally left them off then I seen a thread by a guy on another site that left them off. He had the Energy Suspension mounts. They melted into a big glob. So I put the shields on today. Good thing my trucks been undriveable.

[87wildside]

You scared Tyson again....lol

[rentedmule]

meah, I'm really not worried about the passenger side mount. There's really no way that engine torque is going to tear it if the driver's side is solid - I figure the only place it's going to go is downward into the frame. Wait until you drive yours with the mounts in and you'll see why I was concerned about vibrations on a daily driver!

I actually left the heat shield off because it was a major PITA trying to get the bolts started with it in place. I tried for about 10 mins before tossing it aside! In the end I convinced myself that it didn't really look like it offered a whole lot of protection to the mount anyway. If I had headers I might be more worried about it.

[12sws27]

I felt the same way about the shield. Then I started getting seconds thoughts when I saw a poly melted. That guy had stock manifolds too. I tried to find the thread with no success. The Energy's do seem closer to the manifold than the Baja's though. So maybe they'll be fine. I just didnt want to take the risk.

[87wildside]

I remember talking to the guy that runs Baja Customs and he said you don't need the shields. Was he BSing me, IDK.

[King_Ice_flash]

I have seen the polyurethane motor mounts melt, but I thought the Baja customs ones were solid?

[87wildside]

The use a link arm poly bushing.

[87wildside]

This type
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/univ1.html

[King_Ice_flash]

I would highly recommend using a heat shield.

[rentedmule]

Well it's going to be below zero (celcius) here for the next 5 months so I've got some time before heat is an issue. Hell it'll likely be below -20 for a good chunk of that time. I'll throw the heat shield on the next time I'm under there for something but if I melt one in the mean time I'll just use the bushings from the passenger side mount.

[DiCi21]

I have 2 inch spacers on the back. Is that what you have on there? Cuz that's basically exactly how mine looks and i haven't had any problems, but i did have to grind down a stud on the frame on the back driver's side that was rubbing on the tire. I also asked a manager at discount tire if it was too close and he said as long as it isn't touching it will be fine... because the tires don't move side to side, they stay with the frame.

ok u might want to get 2.5 inch spacers on the back. I took my wheels off yesterday for the coming winter months and it was definitely rubbing on the frame. So obviously that dude from discount tire doesnt know what he's talking about

[rentedmule]

LOL, good to know! Thanks! I'm bidding on a replacement rear wheel now, hopefully I can get it for cheaper than the cost of fixing the damaged one.

[rentedmule]

I got tired of the steering console mounted boost gauge - it looked out of place. I picked up a pillar pod for an '03 silverado and color matched it with some (expensive!) SEM interior paint. Autometer stuff fits like crap but it's good enough for now. It could probably be forced to fit better if I rivited it to the A-pillar but I just mounted with double-sided tape. Some day I might take the whole pillar off and smooth it in but I can live with it as is.

Old setup
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/frontg2.jpg

New
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301459.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301461.jpg

now I just need a boost gauge that doesn't read to 35 psi or a blower that can do that...

[12sws27]

Looks good from here:D Whats the green light for?

[Bone Crusher]

X2...... I had the 2 gauge pod and seemed to fit pretty good but the only thing I hated was that it totally blocked my view when making left hand turns

[rentedmule]

The light flashes when the meth injection pump is activated so you know that you're getting knock protection.

[bespurcell]

Looks good.

[chargedextreme]

i just put my solid motor mounts in over the weekend have you heard of any problems with tearing frame? how bad is the vibration

[87wildside]

I've hear that solid mounts will tear the frame but IMO it's a bunch of BS.

[spideyjected]

You'd have to be putting out some serious horse power to tear the frame wouldn't you?

[rentedmule]

The OEM rubber mounts which are only glued togather lasted for 70K miles on my truck - I doubt tearing the frame would be an issue. The vibration is noticable but livable on a daily driver. Mine vibrates more when it's cold more with the S/C hooked up than when I have the belt off for the headunit - I'm not sure why. Anyone have suggestions?

[spideyjected]

Just appreciate the free back massage?!?! (o: I would assume that the charger would give off some vibration "like an air compressor kind of"? Not that I know anything about superchargers other than they are cool!

[Mikz86TA]

The gague looks good. Sux about how high it goes and you cant do that much. hehehe
So what ru doing with the column pod?

[rentedmule]

Do you want it Mike? You're welcome to it if you do, just let me know and I'll send it off.

The S/C does put load on the engine so I guess that's why it vibrates more. I don't mind it now but before I changed the spark plugs it was pretty brutal!

I picked up a replacement ZO6 wheel on ebay today for $104 shipped
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/z06anth2.jpg

It's a repop so it'll be heavier but it's a minimum of $70 cheaper than fixing the busted one. I have more confidence in a new wheel vs. a repaired one too. It's also gun-metal which means the color choice for the other 3 wheels has been made for me! :cool:

[12sws27]

Looking forward to seeing them painted and on the Noma.
My truck vibrates more when the Jammer in on it too.
Does your truck vibrate the most at 1k rpm? Thats when my Jimmy (w/baja mounts) is at it's worst.

[Mikz86TA]

$104 for just one rim?
Doesnt sound too bad. There is some guy here locally that fixes alum wheels. But IDK to what extent. I have that one ZQ8 that I destroyed I thought to fix once.
Those ZO6 wheels are cool. Not too much change in terms of shading since you painted your TA wheels a similar gunmetal B4.

Yeah, I wouldnt mind getting that from you. Just lemme know. I dont have a gague for it ...yet. hehe Was there a cut portion for the Auto shifter?

[Mikz86TA]

Ur Canadian cluster trips me out. haha

[87wildside]

Ur Canadian cluster trips me out. hahaYou can reprogram the comp-u-tater to make them read MPH for a higher MPH:cool:

[rentedmule]

LOL, i wouldn't trust the old 'noma at 180 mph! There is a cut out for the key on the gauge pod and I think it does curve around the shifter - I'll take some closer pics of it stuck back on the truck so you can get a better idea.

The $104 (canadian) was just for one wheel. They charge a minimum of $170 to fix "typical damage" to wheels at all the shops I called around here so I was happy with that price. I'm hoping to get ~$300 for my T/A wheels which will cover almost all the cost of the 'vette wheels.

I find the vibration is worst when the truck is warming up but I always get some when it's in gear with my foot on the brake at a stoplight or something - usually at about 700 rpms. Swapping to the efan helped and the plugs made the biggest difference but it's still there. There's a fresh cap/rotor and MSD wires on it so I don't think it's ignition related.

IIRC kingiceflash mentioned that his smoothed out alot when he put the TCI balancer on - maybe that's something I should look into eventually.

[Mikz86TA]

I know manuals have more vibrations issues than autos. Im guessing due to the weight of the tranny.
Yeah, just PM me about that pod. I may want it. Was it 2 1/16 or 2 5/8 gague opening?
Which TCI balancer? Rattler?

[rentedmule]

The vibration gets noticably better when I take the belt off for the S/C and it's also worse when the A/C or defrost is on so there's definately an engine-load component. I think it was the rattler that KIF used - it's in his project thread somewhere.

The gauge opening is 2 5/8" IIRC. I had to open it up a bit to get the boost gauge in there and it was still a tight fit. It fit perfectly in the new pod without any clearancing though. I'll pm ya

[Mikz86TA]

The vibration gets noticably better when I take the belt off for the S/C and it's also worse when the A/C or defrost is on so there's definately an engine-load component. I think it was the rattler that KIF used - it's in his project thread somewhere.

The gauge opening is 2 5/8" IIRC. I had to open it up a bit to get the boost gauge in there and it was still a tight fit. It fit perfectly in the new pod without any clearancing though. I'll pm ya

Ok. Dang. I had my eye on a gague for it but its a 2 1/16".

[King_Ice_flash]

http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showpost.php?p=194112&postcount=30

:p

[rentedmule]

I was under the truck changing the oil today so I stuck in a new energy suspension poly transmission mount. The old mount looked fine but man, was it soft! I had to cut off the bolt that attached the old one to the crossmember to get it out but it was a simple swap after that.

The new mount cut down on the vibrations alot but I still feel like it's shaking a bit more than it should. I'm not getting an SES light but I'm going to try to get a hold of a scanner and check for misfires anyway. The truck has 68K miles on it - is there anything else I should be checking maintenance-wise that could be causing the vibration?

[Mikz86TA]

Cool! I got a manual, so you can really see and feel it in the shifter when theres alot of vibrations.

[12sws27]

Wait a minute.... what'd you do? Use the baja frame mount part or is there a poly mount for your app? I thought there wasn't any.

[rentedmule]

I think Mike recommended it in a random post that I found while searching - energy suspension part# 3.1108, it was around $20 Canadian. I think it's just listed for 2wd GM vehicles or something like that but it worked fine.

[12sws27]

Ok...Reading>Me. I thought you were talking about a motor mount. I now see you were talking about a transmission mount. I=Fail. :o

[rentedmule]

The vibration that's been bothering me for a year is now fixed. Any guesses?

The accel coil that Scott recommended wasn't in stock and was $10 more expensive for some reason so I picked up a new MSD 8231 thinking the vibration was ignition-related (since new plugs helped noticably). It didn't help obviously but I did find the culprit while was I installing it...

It was the god-damned supercharger belt the whole time! I had it sinched down to what I thought was pretty tight and it looked fine while the truck was idling. When I put it in gear with the E-brake on though the section going down from the headunit to the crank pulley was vibrating extremely quickly about 1/3" in either direction :eek: I tightened the belt so it was rock solid and everything was perfectly smooth :D!

I've been trying to fix that for a year! Diagnostics >> me :o

[87wildside]

How do you measure 1/3 of an inch?

[rentedmule]

How do you measure 1/3 of an inch?

I used this tool that I rented at autozone, I think it's called the "gofvckyourselferic caliper" or something like that :p:D

[87wildside]

I used this tool that I rented at autozone, I think it's called the "gofvckyourselferic caliper" or something like that :p:DYup, that's a sig quote. :jump_125:

[rentedmule]

lol

[12sws27]

The accel coil that Scott recommended wasn't in stock and was $10 more expensive for some reason so I picked up a new MSD 8231
Where'd you buy it? the acc140024 is like $5 cheaper than the msd at summit. Not that it matters all that much i guess but that msd is 40k volts and the accel is 48k. Either is better that stock which is 38k i beleive.

How do you measure 1/3 of an inch?


I used this tool that I rented at autozone, I think it's called the "gofvckyourselferic caliper" or something like that :p:D
I LMAO when I read this! LOL!^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[87wildside]

I LMAO when I read this! LOL!^^^^^^^^^^^^^X2 :kitty_125

[bespurcell]

LMBO. X4

[rentedmule]

hahaha!!!

I was surprised that the accel was more expensive too, it was at a local speed shop (one block from my house, how convenient!). I knew the accel one was supposed to be better but I didn't want to wait to order one and I figured either would be OK. It's frivolous but I also wasn't so keen on the bright yellow, the MSD one is black :p

[rentedmule]

I have the blower belt sinched down pretty damn tight and I'm still occasionally getting belt-flap on the section running down from the headunit to the crank pulley.

I've been doing alot of searching on the F150 and dakota forums where powerdynes are much more popular and I came across this pic

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/Pdynef150customtensioner3.jpg

This dude added an extra idler pulley (small pulley on bottom right hand side) to eliminate belt flap on that long run of belt - apparently it's a common problem on F150's.

I took a look at the mounting plate on my truck and there is room to try this but I'm not paying a crap-load for a billet pulley. What's my best bet for finding a small (2") idler pulley for a 6-rib (1" wide) belt? Should I just go to a parts store and dig through the boxes? The rest of it shouldn't be hard but I'll probably have to bolt it on before putting the mounting plate in the truck - there's no way to reach the bolt on the back once it's in there.

Here are a few other pics from guys who've added OEM style belt tensioners to p-dynes in case anyone is interested (although I think I'm the only sucker here with one that's actually on a truck!). I think the tensioners came from a procharger kit IIRC.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/Pdynef150customtensioner.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/Pdynef150customtensioner2.jpg

[87wildside]

Ask the guys at the F150 forum what to get a stock replacement from....they should know from all their trips to the junk yard for parts...........

[rentedmule]

LOL, that's true! Where's Lee to defend these poor guys?! That idler is a custom billet piece though, not a stock part that originally came with the powerdyne kit.

[87wildside]

I've seen them, stock steel 2". Think it was on a 90's dodge FWD.

[firefighter]

Are you looking for a fixed pulley? If so just look a lil bit over on the existing pulleys on the truck I know there is at least one fixed pulley also if you go to the ZZP site he sells some pulleys that might help.


http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/products.php?id=111

[rentedmule]

Thanks for the link Persio. The pulleys on there now are all 3". I could make a 3" work but the space is much tighter on the mounting plate for my kit so I'd prefer a smaller one.

[firefighter]

Hey try looking at the Cobalt stuff maybe something is smaller there. Go to the home page he's got a whole Cobalt section.

[firefighter]

I just read that the stock Cobalt pulley is 2.5" that's a lil better.

http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IR&Product_Code=LSJ-STP-630&Category_Code=LSJ_Pulleys

[12sws27]

I would just got to the parst store and ask them if I can dig through there stock :D Seriously....

[rentedmule]

I wish I was going home this x-mas, I could just root through my dad's part's store! I'll try the NAPA I usually go to, they're more of a family-run operation so they'll probably help.

[87wildside]

It's Christmas :)

[rentedmule]

The head-unit locked up solid and shredded the serp belt in a cloud of smoke on a road trip a few days ago. We were idling along the highway at 1700 rpms when it happened. Merry x-mas f'ing powerdyne. grrrrr.

[12sws27]

FAWK! :( S. O. a B!!! Sorry dude.

[bespurcell]

That SUX!

[rentedmule]

Yeah, tell me about it! 3 strikes and the p-dyne is out. I just got back and haven't had a chance to assess the damage but I'll probably just rebuild it again and sell it off. It seems like every time I do a long highway trip it dies.

[hero dave]

it doesn't sound very reliable! have you tried calling p-dyne?

[hero dave]

maybe they have a suggestion or something....maybe feel guilty that they sold you a crap produce and replace it for free! :)

[Mikz86TA]

sux, sorry to hear

[firefighter]

That thing has done nothing but give you crap hasn't it? Sorry to hear it bro. What a PITA.

[rentedmule]

meah, I'm not nearly as pissed this time as I was right after the last rebuild. I'm going to talk to Carl at 928 motorsports again and see what he'll do for me on the rebuild. As far as I'm concerned his "super rebuild" was a total waste of money and all his claims about reliability speak for themselves. Imagine if I actually abused my truck?! I may see a few psi once a week and it was -26 celcius outside when it went this time. Hell my e-fan hasn't turned on in well over 2 weeks so I doubt heat was much of a factor!!!

I'll lose a crap load of money if I sell the whole kit so I'm just going to sell the headunit and hold onto the rest. Scorpion has bought out powerdyne and new gear-driven XB-1A's are now available from them. They're 18 psi capable at 1000+ cfm right now and they're releasing a 1400 cfm version with a billet steel impeller in the next few months. They're about $1400 for a rebuilt one so it'll be a while before I can afford it.

I've done alot of research on them over the past year and everyone says it'll just bolt on to my mounting bracket despite what powerdyne claimed when dogsofjune talked to them a long time ago. Maybe they just didn't want people throwing 18 psi at a stock V6? And if it doesn't bolt right up I'll do what I have to do to make it fit!

Hopefully I'll have a new job and a second car in the next year so I can build the truck like I want it. The XB-1A's have the same style of straight-cut gears that the race versions of the vortech blowers have so they're stupid loud :D. The power delivery is also much less civilized than the BD11a which is what I really wanted all along :D

[spideyjected]

That stinks. Hope something works out.

[12sws27]

It's good to hear you haven't given up. If/when I get to where I'm pushing my Jammer to the limit. I'd like to look at doing a custom set up as well. Gotta get in to tuning my self though first. Sooner or later if I wanna go faster I'm going to have to kick out the cash for a laptop and a tuning program. I would of probably already got one if I had a laptop. I get one eventually. One day I'll see a crack head walking down the street with one :D

[Cameo_S10]

It's good to hear you haven't given up. If/when I get to where I'm pushing my Jammer to the limit. I'd like to look at doing a custom set up as well. Gotta get in to tuning my self though first. Sooner or later if I wanna go faster I'm going to have to kick out the cash for a laptop and a tuning program. I would of probably already got one if I had a laptop. I get one eventually. One day I'll see a crack head walking down the street with one :D

Twenny Dolla! LOL:D

[12sws27]

Twenny Dolla! LOL:D
It can happen :D I'm around people in "recovery" all the time. Someone is always relapsing... I've seen alotta stuff sell real fast and cheap.;)

[rentedmule]

I have a random question that doesn't deserve it's own thread :)

Does anyone happen to know the specs on the stock crank pulley bolts? I can't take the S/C mounts and associated parts off of the truck until I can find some stock length bolts to replace the long ones used for the double crank pulley setup. I could go pull them off of a wrecked truck but it's snowy, -30 outside, and they're not the easiest things to reach on a junker that's laying on it's axles.

[12sws27]

Ah shoot dude, IDk. I don't think they're very long? Maybe an inch, 1.25"? I can't see them being any longer than that.

[csl2006]

searched the net cant find nothin

[rentedmule]

No worries, it was a long shot! I'll see if I can get my engine-building peeps to find me some

[12sws27]

Soooo..... what have you got so far? What's the plans. I see your avatar. Care to share?

[87wildside]

Soooo..... what have you got so far? What's the plans. I see your avatar. Care to share?Yeah! WTF is that doing there?

[King_Ice_flash]

Yes, do tell.

[rentedmule]

LOL I bought ^his remote mount turbo piping so I'm just going to recreate the setup that 02_vortech had. He may not have been the most popular guy but it's hard to argue the results he got - he made more more rwhp untuned at 8 psi than my S/C would ever make.

I already have the FMU, meth injection, blow-off valve, boost controller (bought for the turbo T/A) and the tuning is paid for so that should keep the costs down alot. I'm also hoping it'll be more reliable. I'll start ordering the rest of the bits when the powerdyne gets back from 928 motorsports and I can sell it.

The main parts I'll need are the turbo (t3/t04e 60 or 60-1), a relatively small intercooler, external wastegate, battery relocation kit (?) and an oil scavenging pump plus a bunch of small parts that I'm forgetting right now.

I'm only looking to run whatever my current fuelling setup can support so that'll probably limit me to 9-10 psi based on what I remember from my last tune. I'm not looking for anything crazy at this point since reliability and cost are major issues. I'm shooting for around 250 rwhp - it made 255 rwhp on his blazer at 8 psi without a tune so if I get more that's ok too :D

[King_Ice_flash]

Let me know if you need measurements or pictures of the intercooler mounting. (Or if you need help figuring out where the pieces of pipe went.

I have to take more pictures of my truck, but I can't find the camera :(

[12sws27]

Kewl! Can't wait :D

[rentedmule]

I can't wait either but the visa is hurtin' right now so I'm going to have to! Thanks for the offer KIF - I'll probably take you up on it when the time comes. Are you using the Tilton diff fluid pump that 02_vortech used on his blazer for the oil scavenging?

Are you going to run a muffler on your setup? I've never heard an unmuffled 4.3 that I liked (including a 10 second syclone) so I'm thinking I will.

[King_Ice_flash]

That is the pump I am planning on using. So far all I have done is installed the fitting in the oil pan for the oil return and capped it off. I am not sure what I am going to use for a muffler yet, but I am leaning towards a 3" Borla, but yes I plan on keeping the catalytic converter and muffler.

There's one SY up here that sounds awesome. I have to find out what he did to it, but I'm sure 90% of the sound is the monstrous cam he has in it. It doesn't even want to stay running under 2500 RPMs :D

I just sent a pile of my parts back out for machining (leaking fuel rails thanks to RPM's fine machining on the ends, and having a 3/8 npt bung welded into the intake for the IAT sensor. After I get everything back I should be ready for the turbo.

[rentedmule]

I'll also be keeping the converter. I'm thinking I'll just try to mount the turbo in line with my current intermediate pipe so I can use the existing exhaust. I'll have to see how that looks when I actually get the turbo though. I'm guessing the truck will be very quiet with the turbo and the exhaust I have.

[rentedmule]

I gots a package in my mail box today - thanks King_Ice_flash!

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301501.jpg

I obviously couldn't wait to start assembly so I put the BOV on :D
I'm assuming the fitting on the intake pipe still has a meth nozzle in it, right?

I also cleaned up my alternator bracket 'cause I was bored and wanted to work on the truck
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301503.jpg

[King_Ice_flash]

That was fast. Did you take those pictures with my camera? LOL

Yeah, he was using meth on it.

[rentedmule]

Just heard from 928MS - apparently something failed and caused a fire inside the case that was hot enough to start to melt the input shaft/sprocket that the pulley attaches to. Funny cause the case wasn't hot when I stopped to pick up the bits of shredded belt and the belt had been loose enough that it was still flapping around.

It'll cost $250 for the new shaft+sprocket + the rebuild cost so I'm scrapping it. Any powerdyne owners want a pimp billet steel impeller, vented billet impeller shaft, and a vented case?


What a waste of time/money

[12sws27]

That friggin sux big time Tyson! I want to punch your dyne in the nutz!

[rentedmule]

I'm considering chopping it up with one of my many axes when I get it back. But do I use the 4lb double bit or the 4.5lb fire-axe or the 2.5 lb single bit so I get alot of quick swings at it?

[12sws27]

Why not a 20lb sledge?

[87wildside]

Didn't 928 "fix" it with the bearings?

[spideyjected]

That really sucks.

[rentedmule]

Didn't 928 "fix" it with the bearings?

They claim it was caused by over tightening the belt. To me the belt felt looser than it would on a 4.3 with a standard tensioner on it but who knows.

This is not meant to be a whining rant because I wasted alot money and I fully understood when I bought these upgrades that there was no warranty - I really want people to learn something from my experience with this:

I have to say that I'm really not pleased with the outcome of 928's work. I know that they're polishing the proverbial turd and that I should be happy that they're offering anything at all for these crappy S/C's but IMHO their claims about the improvements that their parts make are very exaggerated.

I take responsibility for the small pulley / burning bearing incidents but it's hard to swallow when the headunit melts without warning in -30 degree weather because the belt was too tight. I was never given any guidance by them on this topic and I honestly felt that the belt tension was perfectly reasonable, especially considering I paid hundreds of $$$ for specialty bearings that I had to wait weeks to get.

I would advise against paying for any of their upgrades except maybe the case venting and the billet impeller - at least that didn't shatter and kill my engine like the standard powerdyne one seems to do!

[87wildside]

I say punch 928 in the face.

Glad you have the turbo kit. I always wanted to see what that setup could do with a proper tune.

[King_Ice_flash]

BTW, if you want 02_Vortech's tune, let me know.

[12sws27]

How much do they chare for the billit impellers out of curiousity. Also Are you still going to use the water/meth kit even though you're gonna use an intercooler? Well now that I think about it I guees you would since the meth works like extra fuel.

[rentedmule]

The billet impeller is about $495 USD. I think a regular replacement impeller is somewhere around $200.

I am going to use the meth with the turbo but I'm not sure on the details yet. I don't know if I'll still need to run a 50/50 meth/water mix or whether it would be better to spray straight methanol after it's intercooled. The water is just there to cool things down so I may be able to take even more load off of the fuel system with straight meth. For now I just left the meth system hooked up with the injector wrapped up and the fuse pulled.

[12sws27]

Interesting.

[rentedmule]

small update - long story short 928MS called and they cut the repair cost by more than half. It's still not going back on the truck but at least now I can sell it as a working kit and hopefully get some of my money back from it.

[12sws27]

Good! So how long before we get big update?

[Mikz86TA]

Thats good. But IDK if youll find a buyer here =)

[rentedmule]

I'm definately going to sell it locally - I posted it up on a local classifieds site with the headunit busted and got lots of interest so I'm hoping it'll go. It may be a while before there's a big update, I'm flat broke at the moment and I don't see that changing any time soon!

[rentedmule]

Hurray, an update (of sorts)!!! I bought a new set of front tires for the 'vette wheels today

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/Fuldaquantums.jpg

255/40-ZR17 Fulda quantum elites, $80 for the pair from a local seller on ebay. Fulda is owned by Goodyear and is one of the biggest OEM tire suppliers in the UK so I think they're pretty good quality.

I couldn't pass them up for that $$ I haven't decided whether I'll just resell them or replace the eagle F1 supercar's I have on there now. The front F1's have about 6/32's left but they have some gouges in them from the wreck/towing. I'll have to see what they look like when I get my hands on them.

[12sws27]

Update! Yay!

[Mikz86TA]

Nice!



The tread looks like my hairstyle =)

['94 Big Blaze]

sweet !! don't sale it

[Zygoat]

^^ sell ^^

[Jongo88]

How is your grille holding up? I have a chrome one too and I want a black one. I realy don't want to paint the chrome one but if I don't find a painted one I guess I will paint it.

[rentedmule]

It wasn't belt slippage that was the problem for me it was belt flap. I was getting crazy vibrations from the belt resonating back and forth in the run from the headunit to the crank pulley.

The grill has been holding up well but this is the second time I've repainted it. On the first go around it chipped alot but I sanded more and used better paint/primer this time.

As for the tires I'm undecided on which set to use - the F1's are likely much better than the Fuldas, they're something like $450 each to replace! I'll try them in auto-x this spring and see what I think.

[Bootlegger's Deluxe]

is the motor mount fixed yet?? thats all i care about...

[rentedmule]

It is!!!

[Bootlegger's Deluxe]

Dang.... now I can only harass you about being Canadian...

[rentedmule]

That should provide lots of ammunition for you hosers, eh.

[rentedmule]

I still own a truck, I swear! No more progress on the turbo project until I sell the blower but I have picked up a few small upgrades.

drmrman from S10forum/protouringS10 is the man - he sent me a pair of 2.5" spacers for free! I did end up finding him a set of 3" drop coils in return but I still think I got the better end of that deal - thanks buddy! I ordered a second set of hub-centric 2.5" spacers last week off ebay. Unfortunately I still don't have my front wheel fixed so I probably won't make the much needed auto-X driving school or the first few events at the end of this month.

New pads for the front - Hawk HPS's ($60 shipped off ebay). Hopefully a bit better than the cheapo's that are on there now.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/Hawkhps.jpg

Also picked up a used set of underdrive pullies which I used to run before the S/C.

Should have an envoy bumper sometime in the next few weeks too! It'll need some repair and doesn't come with fogs but I love the look of it. I'm planning on getting a rollpan and ditching the 100+ lbs of class III hitch and rear bumper when I send the envoy bits in for paint. I doubt I'll have the traction issues I had last year with no S/C :( and 295's on the rear :D

[87wildside]

How long is going to take to get those pads on :)

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

I hate to see how cursed these superchargers are for our engines. Good luck with the turbo build!

[rentedmule]

How long is going to take to get those pads on :)

they should be on soon - no later than 2010-2011 :p

['94 Big Blaze]

what size was the tires on the trans am wheels ? and didn't you use coils and spring packs from a zq8, with a drop block in the rear?

[rentedmule]

I used the front coils/shocks/swaybar from a ZQ8 and just 3" blocks and a ZQ8 swaybar on the rear. It sits level with that setup. The tires on the T/A wheels were 245/50-16's - they wouldn't hook at all, probably because they were worn out.

[12sws27]

Yay! an update. Someone needs to buy that damn dyne already! I'm jonesing for a turbo update.

[rentedmule]

The 'dyne is actually sold for a pretty decent price the second I get it back from 928 MS but that's taking a while!

[12sws27]

Give me their number so I can tell them to hurry up! I'm bored and want more boosted stuff to read!

[rentedmule]

Found this interesting tid-bit on ebay today...

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Powerdyne-Supercharger-928-Motorsports-HP-Impeller_W0QQitemZ300311488931QQcmdZViewItemQQptZM otors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3003114 88931&_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177

wow.

[87wildside]

I told you they all use the wrong bearings.
That guy is awesome, think I found a new way to flame POS companies.

[rentedmule]

Hauled off the rest of the S/C kit yesterday and installed a set of March aluminum underdrive pullies and the stock alternator and mount.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301596.jpg

She's back to looking pretty stock but at least it's running well! There's much less vibration at idle with the stock belt tensioner back on which is nice. It's showing 14 volts at idle with the efans on which is also better than the other alternator was putting out with the stock pullies. My idle speed dropped by ~100 rpms for some reason though, what's that all about???

It's off to the dyno shop tomorrow to get a normally aspirated tune put back in. I'm sure it'll be pulling an awesome 160 rwhp :eek:!!! I should have a few updates this week - the GF is away and I have lots of little fixes/projects planned :)

[12sws27]

Oh plans! Are you gonna just let it be a surprise or are you gonna let us in on what you have planned? N/A sux! :(

[rentedmule]

Nothing big, just a bunch of maintenance and little stuff that I've been putting off because I didn't have time or because the weather sucked. I'm hoping to finally get my diff girdle on, remove the meth injection stuff, color match my grill shell and mirrors, wax it, track down some interior rattles, possibly get some cheapo rear shocks to hold me over, and a few other things that I can't remember right now :p.

I'm still waiting for my Hawk brake pads - I had to open an ebay dispute since they didn't show up and the seller wouldn't answer my messages. Apparently it was just a shipping mess up and he was on vacation but we'll see if I ever get them :rolleyes:.

I should have an envoy bumper in the next week or so too - it'll need some TLC but I think it's salvagable.

[rentedmule]

Finished the grill tonight. I had NAPA mix a spray can of indigo blue metallic enamel. 3 coats of base, 3 of clear. I didn't even bother sanding it - this is my 3rd time around and I've learned that it'll be covered in chips after my first highway drive so sanding is a waste of energy!

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301599.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301600.jpg

I also fixed my hood hinge bolts again for the 1000th time then cleaned, painted, and labelled most of the S/C parts. The guy I got it from wasn't nearly as kind and I didn't want be that dick.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301602.jpg

[russ_2004_85]

Nice. Hey bro. How exactly do you paint your grill? I just got one. It is grey currently. I need to paint it black? This is the how many time you have had to repaint it?

[rentedmule]

Mine was chrome to start and I tried and failed once to paint it black. The second time I did a better job with the black but then decided I wanted color matched.

I sanded it with 400 grit and then cleaned it really well with degreaser, rinsed it, then rubbed it down with duplicolor wax/grease remover about 3 times. I masked it and then hit it with a primer meant for plastic - I think it was a krylon fusion or something like that.

I did a few coats of that and then 3-4 coats of a black meant for plastic - can't remember which brand I used but it was either krylon or duplicolor. That worked well so this time I just cleaned it up and shot the blue directly over it. If your's isn't chrome you won't have any problems.

[87wildside]

Grill came out nice. (stupid chrome grills.)

Think you might lower it a little more?

[rentedmule]

Yeah, but not until I can afford coil-overs. I don't want to waste a bunch of money on parts that I'll just replace later and I still don't have the $$ for coil-overs. It sits a bit high but I'm much happier with the look now than I was with the smaller T/A wheels last year.

[russ_2004_85]

ty sir, mine is not chrome, so just do what you did, sounds good thanks

[rentedmule]

I just got my N/A tune put back on:

I had the idle bumped up from 575 to 650 rpms to help with the vibrations from the poly motor mount.

I left the factory rev limiter since it's set @ 5600 rpms - that must have been what I was hitting at the last auto-x when I left it in 1st gear. I guess I trust the GM engineers that I won't throw a rod if I hit that every now and then at the track :)

I also zeroed torque management, decreased shift times, increased line pressure, and set the speed limiter to 515 mph (I think that should be high enough...). The shifting feels much better than it did with the S/C tune.

He did something to optimize timing and fuel as well but it didn't look like he put much effort into it. He didn't do any dyno runs either since he's too damn lazy :mad: but it feels good so I'm over it.

If I eventually turbo it I think I'll go to James at Horsepower Solutions (black-x on s10forum) for the tune. He seems to put more thought and effort into his tuning.

[oddball]

Are you sure 515mph is enough?you know the 4.3 has been known to hit Mach 1.lol.Messin w/ ya man,you truck is one of my favorites,Pretty much read your whole thread.....again.....last night.

[rentedmule]

LOL - Thanks Ricky!

I'm covered in diff fluid and I have alot of gravel in what little hair I have left but my rear looks great! :D

On jack stands - fugly stock shocks are high on the to do list
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301606.jpg

On the ground - there's probably less than 1/4" clearance between the swaybar and the cover but I think it'll be enough.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301608.jpg

G80's are complicated little buggers :)
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301604.jpg

Yeah, it's dirty as hell under there - she may not be the prettiest girl at the party but she's good to go :p

Does anyone want the bearing stud kit that came with the cover? It's the 4 studs, washers and bolts.

[Bone Crusher]

at least somone else enjoyed the smell of dinosaur poooo (diff fluid)....i dont wish this oil change on anyone

['94 Big Blaze]

nice ! i've been considering this cover too

[rentedmule]

The fluid almost smelled like tequila when it first came out :confused: :drunk_125

I did it outside in the driveway - I remembered reading a few threads on swapping covers and how bad the stink was! I iz lerning.

[87wildside]

Looks purdy.

[chargedextreme]

how much was the diff cover and where did you get it

[DMP]

The differential cover looks good. :cool:

[Zygoat]

i like it

[rentedmule]

how much was the diff cover and where did you get it

Thanks guys. I got it off ebay at least a year ago - I think it was ~$100 shipped (Canadian). They usually run around $120 new at Summit IIRC.

[Jongo88]

I bet it makes like 100 hp more now...

[rentedmule]

It totally felt faster on the drive to work this morning!!!

[Jongo88]

It totally felt faster on the drive to work this morning!!!
lol..:D

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

On the ground - there's probably less than 1/4" clearance between the swaybar and the cover but I think it'll be enough.

Nice girdle. If you end up needing some more room btwn it and the sway bar, take a look at my install. (http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12158&highlight=diff+girdle)I ended up making some spacers with the help of the fine folk here (cough, Eric-WS).

Mine was close when sitting still, but under flex, it was nicking the corners of the girdle.

[rentedmule]

I knew I remembered seeing that somewhere - thanks! I'll check it after a bit of driving to make sure it's not hitting.

[King_Ice_flash]

The rear end fluid doesn't smell too bad, but the limited slip additive is awful.

[rentedmule]

No LS additive necessary for the G80 though

[rentedmule]

Got a purdy bumper today - I traded some parts for it. There's some cracks on the lower part so I'm either going to plastic weld it, fiberglass the back side of it, or both. The price was right so I'll just tinker with it :)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301609.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301610.jpg

[oddball]

Not too bad,it's fixable!

[spideyjected]

I'd probably consider doing both for strength.

[russ_2004_85]

Hey. Nice bumper. I love my envoy bumper. I still need fog lamps tho. Oh. Wanted to say thanks. I painted my grill and it looks nice.

[rentedmule]

I figure I should update this before Jongo finds me.... :D

I got the Hawk brake pads installed this morning and they feel great. No noise and they stick well without being grabby. There's definately more surface area to them vs. the stockers too. I'll post a pic later, the battery died in my camera during the swap.

The old pads weren't really worn out but they were squeeling badly. It looks like the friction material started to pull off the backing plates - maybe from over-heating them on the course? I have no idea what brand of pads they were, they came on the truck.

I also started to fix the envoy bumper. For the cracks I'm using Bondo plastic bumper repair epoxy and it works super well. I'll glass the back for strength once I get it back in one piece.

[Jongo88]

Thanks bud....:D

[rentedmule]

Here's a pic of the Hawk vs. stock brake pads from the last update - much more surface area. The camera died before I could get a pick of the inside pads but they've got a vertical groove running through them and are angled up on the leading edge.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301629.jpg

Had a good day at the wreckers - I found an '03 or '04 jimmy with a pewter interior. I picked up an A-pillar to replace the one that has the boost gauge in it, an ashtray delete panel for the center console (mine didn't come with one) and a visor with a mirror for the lady ;) - the last two things I've been looking for for well over a year and all for $13! I'm super happy with the visor, I hadn't seen one in decent shape and without lights before. I really didn't want to screw with wiring for something that small :thumb:

I also picked up a washer fluid tank from a TBI truck - I'm assuming it was a '94 or '95. Have they changed the tank since then? I haven't had time to check yet. I had a fitting in my old one for the meth injection and I didn't want to mess with repairing it.

Yeah, that's super lame for a project update but I was pumped! Small victories! :p

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301631.jpg

[87wildside]

How many months until this goes in?

I probably should talk...lol

[rentedmule]

LOL! Hey, I got the brake pads in less than a week after they showed up! Almost everything I've fixed on the truck this spring/summer has gone off without a hitch so I'm not so hesitant to dive into it now :D.

I was gun-shy for a while after that early steering box incident...

[King_Ice_flash]

Don't worry, any project anyone else does won't be anywhere near the disaster one of mine turns out to be.

[12sws27]

Don't worry, any project anyone else does won't be anywhere near the disaster one of mine turns out to be.
IDK about that. When I did my motor mounts I which I did 3x because I thought I put them in the wrong way so I changed them just to figure out I had them in the right way from the get go, I cranked one of the side tank on my radiator in the process, When I put the trans in my Blazer I screwed up the pump drive, I dropped a socket down the intake side of my Jammer when I installed it on my Jimmy and didn't find out till it was to late, Changed the oil pan and rear crank seal on my Jimmy, still leaks from the pan, I was in a hurry doing something, forgot what it was, the Blazer slipped off the jack and I put a nice dent in it right under the pass side rear door on that deal.... I'm sure I'm forgetting something but you get the point. You ain't the only one. My excuse is, I try to do something that should take all weekend in 5 hours.

Tyson, any update is a good update. No matter how small. ;)

[rentedmule]

LOL! This is definately a support group!

For the record the washer fluid tanks did change between the early and late 2nd gens but it's minor. The side of the tank facing the engine compartment is a slightly different shape, probably to clear the factory intake which I no longer have.

[rentedmule]

I finally took the FMU off and fixed the fuel line it was spliced into - looks like the S/C is sold to a member on the other forum. Just waiting for the $ now!

Also installed a set of KYB GR2's on the rear tonight. Went in without a hitch but they were kind of a PITA since I had to take off the swaybar brackets to get to the top bolts.

I went with the low end GR2's because I wanted to try a non gas-charged shock to see if it would help with the stiff rear suspension. They were dirt cheap at Rockauto and all of the higher end shocks are gas charged and advertise that they'll feel stiffer. I wasn't keen on blowing money on something I'd hate so I figured I'd give these a shot. I'm really happy with how they worked out.

The rear still feels a bit over-sprung but it's so much less harsh than before and so much more controlled. It even gets a bit of weight transfer under acceleration now which should help with traction. Eventually I'm going to pull a leaf and swap to a shorter block but I won't have a chance to do that for a while.

ZQ8 bumpstops are on the way for the front. I'm registered for an auto-X event on saturday so hopefully they'll make it here before then.:3gears:

[87wildside]

Stupid Z85. Kick that bishes ass and show it whats up :)
Link for the shocks?

[rentedmule]

I can't figure out how to link directly to the part page - this is the info from rockauto


KYB Part # 344041 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/images/MoreInfo.gif {GR-2}
RWD; Rear
4WD; Exc. ZR2 HighRider Package; Rear

$24.99 each

[rentedmule]

Updates without pics suck so...

A pic of the new shocks
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301696.jpg

old crap
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301697.jpg

And a random camping pic from the weekend :D
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301692.jpg

[87wildside]

Wouldn't the ZR2 shocks be to long?

[rentedmule]

I think that means excluding ZR2. I've seen the same abbreviation for shocks not meant to be used with the ZQ8 package

[87wildside]

Doh
reading > me

[Jongo88]

lol...

[12sws27]

Are you sure you put those shocks right side up? I know you have a habit of installing sh!t upside down, so I figured I would ask to make sure. ;)

When you gonna pull a leaf? Or do I need to do it first? :p

[rentedmule]

Are you sure you put those shocks right side up? I know you have a habit of installing sh!t upside down, so I figured I would ask to make sure. ;)

When you gonna pull a leaf? Or do I need to do it first? :p

how did I miss this post?! Dick! LOL

[87wildside]

I lub Tyson too....
Won't even treat him like he's rented.

[rentedmule]

:spit: LOL!

I think you guys are really special too. Like really, really special.

:gayfight2:

[87wildside]

lol, did you just call me gay?

[trusconi]

no Eric he didn't call you gay just retarded.

[87wildside]

Oh, OK. You sir are correct.

[rentedmule]

LOL - I kid 'cause I love!

ZQ8 bump stops arrived just in time. Holy shat they're huge - they're almost touching at ride height with stock ZQ8 coils! Only took 5 minutes to put in since the bolts instantly broke on the old ones and I didn't have to waste precious time ratcheting. Pics to follow

I also picked up a helmet for auto-X, $40 for a new $220 HJC :thumb:. It's slightly less dorky than the open face club helmet I was using before but I feel like I'm hydrocephalic in it as it's a medium and I have an XL head.
(http://www.ufopsi.com/ufoph/alienautopsy8.jpg)

[87wildside]

hydrocephalic -A usually congenital condition in which an abnormal accumulation of fluid in the cerebral ventricles causes enlargement of the skull and compression of the brain, destroying much of the neural tissue.

Wish my bolts broke. I cut them off with the grinder :)

[rentedmule]

Just got back from auto-X. It was hilarious, as expected! I'm getting much more competitive - I was only a few seconds back of the WRX's and civics and managed to go faster than quite a few people today.

The new bumpstops and shocks helped alot. I was pushing harder than I have before and doing alot of sliding and drifting and it felt really solid. I was itching for a better posi though - the G80 doesn't always hook out of turns when I want it to kick the rear around.

I think someone was taking pics so I'll post them whenever they're up on our local forum.

[rentedmule]

new bump stops
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301702.jpg

knife, gunfight, etc... That '05 997 in the background basically wins every event.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301700.jpg

505hp and 345's on the rear
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301706.jpg

big block chevelle on rails - this car is sick but he was having some issues this time around
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301703.jpg

auto-X is pretty hard on tires - hard to tell from this pic but it looks like they were hit with a wood rasp
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301709.jpg

unfortunately no action shots this time around.

Results list - I'm more interested in having the chance to legally drive like a maniac than being competitive but it's always fun not to be the slowest one there :D.
http://www.mrheavyfoot.com/files/results/2009/Event4_raw.htm

[jgx421]

way to represent for the s-series. awesome results for the only truck there. good job! :thumbup_1

[12sws27]

I'm looking forward to how well you'll do when you're booted again.

[rentedmule]

Another local guy (shift220) runs his turbo sonoma at some of the events too but we haven't been at any together yet so I don't know how it compares. More power wouldn't hurt but on the course I've been running this year it's probably not a huge advantage. I was able to keep it in 1st gear and only hit the rev limiter once yesterday.

More traction would definately help alot though - it was frustrating one-wheel peeling around some of the turns when the G80 didn't kick in. I was actually yelling at the truck to go in some spots! The wide rear tires make drifts surprisingly easy to control when it does let go - way easier than with skinny tires. I haven't done any sliding on pavement before this and I'm getting pretty comfortable with it now.

BTW - There's an SLP y-pipe with my name on it in the mail :D. It came off of a '98 so hopefully I can make it work.

[Jongo88]

That sounds like so much fun...

[12sws27]

BTW - There's an SLP y-pipe with my name on it in the mail :D. It came off of a '98 so hopefully I can make it work.
Lucky bastard! What it cost ya? PM me if it's a secret. :D

[rentedmule]

$190 canadian with shipping - those damn pipes hold their value seeing as they were only $200 US to begin with!

[Mikz86TA]

Is that the one off the S10forum? I has asked about it too just to see if I could pass it along to someone else.
Slowest or not, its still a fun experience. Plus look at the odds here. Lower HP than anything I see in your pics. Its a TRUCK! Its extended cab and long, which translates to a longer turn radius and some extra weight. Did I mention its a truck? LOL

[rentedmule]

Yeah, it was the one on s10forum. He's in Canada as well so it's easier for both of us!

I think the longer turning radius is a biggie. I was the only person who had to back up at the starting line to get straight!

There are these "box" sections that I'm always convinced I'm going to hit on but I've never actually touched a cone yet. This event I was convinced I couldn't make it through both box sections so I was throwing out hail mary's and flooring it as soon as started to turn in. It seemed to work awesome - It either hooked hard and rocketed out or the rear let go and swung it through. Both were hella fun so I kept doing it!

[Mikz86TA]

u got a 7.625 rear right?
Gonna try to find a Zexel?

[rentedmule]

IDK about the zexel. I know it's a significant improvement over the G80 but I don't know if it goes far enough. I wish you could test-drive mods before spending time/money on them!

I've got a bunch of stuff I need to do before I worry about the diff anyway. I need to replace the front shocks and I want to relocated the battery to the bed which should help with traction. I have a feeling I'm going to need to do some chassis maintenance work sometime soon so I want to save some $$ for that too. I hear some suspension clunks every now and then so the ball joints or control arm bushings are probably dying.

[rentedmule]

Project "basically free envoy bumper" has made some progress!

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301710.jpg

There were cracks running through the top of the lower valance before that I filled with bumper repair epoxy. I also have some sheet metal tabs bent up to replace the broken plastic ones for holding the lower grill on.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301711.jpg

The lower valance was split in the center - the two screws are holding a sheet-metal brace inside. I tried a few things and this was the only way I could make it strong enough to handle without it splitting again.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301712.jpg

A few layers of fiberglass inside
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301717.jpg

Reattached the bracket - drilled a bunch of holes in it to increase the surface area for bonding and attached it with black RTV
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301715.jpg

It's roughed out in 220 grit now. Should I block it in 600 before a coat of adhesion promoter and primer or just shoot it as is and then block it after primer? I'm using the same spray paint and clear that I had mixed for the grill.

I'm not expecting it to be show quality but I'm hoping it'll be usable without going to a professional body shop. I traded an extra alternator for it and spent about $50-60 on supplies so far.

[jgx421]

looking good. i was wondering when we were gonna see this bumper again.:)

what did you use to apply the fiberglass? i've been interested in making a custom speakerbox using my CAD program. IDK if any place around here has those kinds of materials.

[87wildside]

Looks good.
I would go to at least 400 before the applying anything. Does the primer have any recommendations on it? Some want 400 and others want 600. All depends on the type and how much they fill.

[rentedmule]

The primer says 220. I ran out after one coat anyway so I'm going to go back and sand it again. That coat highlighted a few rough spots too so it was useful.

[87wildside]

220? that's nuts. 400 at least, IDC what it says. That's just stupid.
Did it show where you sanded through the other layers? Look close for any signs of failing. Did you use the adhesion promoter?

[rentedmule]

Yeah, I used the adhesion promoter. I couldn't actually see any sign of scratches through the primer but it picked up some rock chips that I missed. I used a sander with the 220 and it seems alot smoother than it does with just a block so maybe that's why. Regardless, I'll go over it again with something smoother before the final top coat.

I still have to stick the tabs on and figure out something for a lower grill and fog lights. I think I'll get some of that universal mesh grill, paint it black and pick up a cheap set of fogs to fill the holes. It also crossed my mind to run brake cooling ducts from the fog light holes but I don't think my truck is fast enough for that!

[87wildside]

Don't use a orbital/ palm sander for finish sanding unless you don't care...lol
I say wet 400. Put about 3cm (Canada FTW!) of dish soap to 4 liters of water. It keeps the paper from clogging and helps prep the surface by removing oil, wax and grease.

[Zygoat]

thats alot of soap. i put a few drops in a squirt bottle (about a liter) works good that way.

[87wildside]

forgot the part that says continuous stream.
Make an inch long stripe per gallon of water....
Justin is a dick face :D

[87wildside]

Justin is a dick face :D
Tags say so :batman_12

[rentedmule]

LOL! I Leave friday for most of August - I'll give it a shot but I may not get it done before I go.

[Zygoat]

forgot the part that says continuous stream.
Make an inch long stripe per gallon of water....
Justin is a dick face :D

thats not nice :drunk_125

[87wildside]

I made it all better :)

[rentedmule]

I picked up the SLP y-pipe last night. It has the same 3-bolt flanges to mount to the manifold so I'm hoping it'll fit with relatively minor mods. I'll post pics tonight when I get home. FYI the pipes are 2.25" diameter

[Zygoat]

FYI the pipes are 2.25" diameter


now you tell us. after i already ordered my exhaust tubing..... jerk!:grumpy_12

[rentedmule]

LOL, it wasn't in my hands until last night! Sorry!

[87wildside]

Pics or it doesn't exist.

[Jongo88]

Yea...

[rentedmule]

You'll get your pics as soon as I get home from work! Maybe I should get a 3D CAD model of the thing before I put it on

[Jongo88]

That would be cool...

[Mikz86TA]

I did mine in 2.25 to 2.5. Custom made. So makes sense

[87wildside]

Maybe I should get a 3D CAD model of the thing before I put it onYup, that would help :D

[12sws27]

3D CAD model or it doesn't exist!

[Jongo88]

And pictures....
And a sound clip...

[87wildside]

3D CAD model or it doesn't exist!X2
Tyson, do you even know how to use a CAD program?




If not you're fvcked...lol

[Jongo88]

And pictures and a sound clip and a burnout vid....

[rentedmule]

I have engineer friends who use CAD so I'll look into it! Until then, you'll have to settle for marginal photographic proof of existence...

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301719.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301720.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301721.jpg

Got a few extra O2 sensors with it too!

And one last pic of the primered envoy - didn't have time to sand so it'll have to wait til september
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301718.jpg

[Jongo88]

Cool... I want one now...

[87wildside]

1st, I'm so glad I can weld because that ain't worth all the chatter I hear.
Why orange? You like orange, think orange is sexy do you? well I got orange hair so I'm out you sick fvck....lol

[rentedmule]

orange is dead sexy.

Yeah, the SLP pipe is only good if you can't find someone to make a custom one for a decent price. I was quoted $400 and up for a crush bent one of unknown quality so under $200 for a mandrel bent one sounded good to me!

[87wildside]

<shivers>, twice
Orange sucks and WTH is that all aboot? Orange primer eh??

No welder that pipe makes sense.

[87wildside]

New tag.

[12sws27]

Yeah I think thats a pretty good deal. I was quoted $240 awhile back for a mandrel bent Y that was aluminized steel. I never did it because the shop is about 30mins away and they would need the truck for 6 hours they said. WTF am I gonna do for 6 hours?

[87wildside]

Masturbate?

[12sws27]

Masturbate?
In the waiting room? Hmmmm......:slaphappy

[Mikz86TA]

orange is dead sexy.

Yeah, the SLP pipe is only good if you can't find someone to make a custom one for a decent price. I was quoted $400 and up for a crush bent one of unknown quality so under $200 for a mandrel bent one sounded good to me!

For $400 Ill send you my ol stocker all cruched up in box..even include a hammer to allow you to 'custom' fit it. =) LOL:D

[rentedmule]

I've been away with work for a month and still managed to score a used rollpan for $10 less than 12hrs after I got home! It's not in perfect shape but I'm poor and wouldn't have paid much more for a better one.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301801.jpg

The truck is going in for an alignment to straighten the steering wheel out tomorrow so I'm having them install the SLP y-pipe at the same time. Hopefully it'll bolt right up but I gave them free reign to do what they have to do to make it fit. From what I've read they may have to drill out the flange bolts a bit at the least or cut it and patch in a section if it's way off. I'm getting the precat cut off at the same time. The same shop built my exhaust and I trust the guy so we'll see what he does with it!

[12sws27]

Nice! You get all the good deals. :D

[rentedmule]

I've been keeping an eye out for over a year - patience is key! LOL

[Mikz86TA]

Like your avitar says...shop smart =)

[rentedmule]

Exactly!

Got the alignment done and the tech said it was a pain to get the steering wheel lined up with the quick ratio box. It's close enough and doesn't pull left anymore so I'm happy.

The SLP y-pipe went on with barely a hitch! They had to drill out the holes on the flanges but that's it. That was pointed out in these threads and I gave the shop a heads up so it wasn't an issue.

http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37204

http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60611&highlight=slp+y-pipe

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f107/slp-y-pipe-fits-perfect-on-99-up-trucks-pics-inside-17126/

It sounds significantly louder and a bit more "raw" if that makes sense.

Old sound-clip with just the 2.5" dynomax ultraflow catback
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/2003-GMC-Sonoma-43L-V6-an_127855.htm

Sound-clip after removing precat and swapping y-pipe
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/th_S6301809.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/?action=view&current=S6301809.flv)


The old pipe with it's hilarious 1.5" outside diameter!
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301802.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301804.jpg

Installed pics
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301805.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301806.jpg

I didn't get a chance to wring it out yet but I didn't notice anything on the low end. It seemed to pull harder after about 2500 rpms but I'll know better at the next auto-X.

[Mikz86TA]

Yeah midrange and top end is where you will notice it

[Mikz86TA]

which muff you got?

[rentedmule]

which muff you got?

2.5" in/out dynomax ultraflow - not sure on the part #

[Mikz86TA]

sounds nice

[jgx421]

What year did they install precats on 4.3s? I saw the one on Rentedmule's y pipe, and last week when I got my hollowed cat put in, I'm sure I didn't have a liltle precat like the one on Mule's y pipe. Is this on 2000 and newer models?

P.S it sounds really good. IMO I think you need a slp loudmouth 2 to finish it off. :cool:

[Jongo88]

My 2001 and 2002 has one... But my 2002 don't anymore..lol.

[jgx421]

Can you tell a difference between the two? I'm sure the exhaust note is a tad louder. What about any noticeable seat of the pants differences?

[Jongo88]

Nothing at all. Everything is the exact same. No change at all.:mad:

[12sws27]

O1 or 02 like Jongo says. John also might not of noticed anything because his main cat is still on there and he still has the stock muffler I believe.

Tyson, you got me wanting to spend money now BTW.

[rentedmule]

I was hoping I'd have money from the S/C sale today but I think it's going to be another few weeks. Hurray Visa!

[12sws27]

Your tail pipe is 2.5" I.D. right? Not O.D.? Walker/Dyno Max=same stuff?

[rentedmule]

No idea if it's internal or external diameter. Yeah, my dad's Auto Parts Plus store exclusively sold Walker exhaust parts so that's why I started buying dynomax stuff.

I actually used to get most of my parts free from sales reps - too bad that doesn't happen anymore :(

[12sws27]

I might get a "Y" and headers real soon. Then I'll still have the tail to do. I can get a mandrel bent "Y" done for $240 but I want it for a bit cheaper. Hmmmmm wonder where I could get a Y for about 150.......shipped? :)

[rentedmule]

Almost there....

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301818.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301819.jpg

It needs another coat of clear and some wax (still wet in these pics). There's a few spider-web cracks that didn't cover well but I think it's probably just as good as the bumper that's on the truck now.

I'm going to pick up some of the universal grill mesh and maybe a set of cheap fog lights to fill the holes.

It crossed my mind to run brake cooling ducts from them but I'm not sure how useful they'd be with the way I run my truck. Think it's worth it?

[Jongo88]

Looks good dude..

[Bone Crusher]

Tyson did you use a BC/CC or just rattle can it? I just had my step shaver kit done on my truck and cost me $157 out the door

Looks good

[jgx421]

Wow that bumper looks great.

The brake duct idea is cool, when you're auto-Xing. But you don't race all the time.

I think that you'd get more everyday use out of the foglights.

Just my opinion. You can spit at it if you don't like it.

[12sws27]

Looks great. IDK about the brake ducts. They would be pretty cool though.

[rentedmule]

Tyson did you use a BC/CC or just rattle can it? I just had my step shaver kit done on my truck and cost me $157 out the door

Looks good


yeah, it was acrylic enamel base and clear. I used the clear suggested to me by the shop and it wasn't great though. I just put on another coat of duplicolor acrylic enamel clear and it's much glossier than the other stuff. It takes almost a whole can to do one proper coat though. I probably have about $75 into the primer, paint, and clear so it may have been cheaper/better to go to a body shop but doing it myself was half the fun!

I think I will go the fog-light route as soon as I find a set that'll work. I'll probably tint them with some VHT as well.

[spideyjected]

I must agree, it looks nice!

[Bone Crusher]

yeah, it was acrylic enamel base and clear. I used the clear suggested to me by the shop and it wasn't great though. I just put on another coat of duplicolor acrylic enamel clear and it's much glossier than the other stuff. It takes almost a whole can to do one proper coat though. I probably have about $75 into the primer, paint, and clear so it may have been cheaper/better to go to a body shop but doing it myself was half the fun!

I think I will go the fog-light route as soon as I find a set that'll work. I'll probably tint them with some VHT as well.

Make sure you put a good coat of wax on it because the duplicolor clear likes to fade out and collect dirt. I may have had it on there for 2 months before I had to pull the shaver kit off to get it professionally done. The wax may by you some time and protection.

[rentedmule]

Good to know! Front ends take a beating in this province from the gravel they use on the roads in the winter - I may eventually end up having it done professionally but I don't have the money right now.

[rentedmule]

It's on and looking ok. It's a pretty crappy paint job compared to the rest of the truck but it's good enough until I can afford to get it done professionally. I think it'd look better than the stock bumper even if it was flat black :p

Sorry for the crappy pics, I didn't feel like moving it out of the sun.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301821.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301825.jpg

It went on fine but it seems loose for some reason. The old cover had push in fasteners above the license plate area and this one doesn't. I'm going to try to fab up something this afternoon to make it solid.

The fogs are just $20 bargain bin 4" APC's. They were tinted blue but I sprayed them with about 4 coats of nightshades - now they look almost identical to the indigo blue on the bumper (not on purpose!).

[12sws27]

Looks good. You said something about "universal mesh"? Where you plan on getting that? Link?

[rentedmule]

I think it's made by a company called "Tuner" - they also make crappy exhaust tips IIRC. I've seen it at Canadian Tire

[Mikz86TA]

Looks good. I like that bumper

[Apprentice #4]

That looks sweet as hell! What is that, an Envoy bumper or Bravada?

[rentedmule]

It's from a 1998-2000 envoy. I also managed to get the fog-lights wired up this afternoon so they're actually functional now.

[spideyjected]

that looks sweet!

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

nice work. lets see some closer pics of the fogs when you have time.

[DMP]

Looks good. Yeah my Envoy bumper didnt have brackets or anything in the location you mentioned either. So I just fabbed my own.

[Apprentice #4]

If I wasn't planing on doing an xtreme kit down the road I would definitly look into one of those.

[rentedmule]

I've seen pics of envoy'd sonomas with the back half of the xtreme body kit and it actually looks pretty good. I only spend the absolute minimum on appearance stuff though. I want to make this one fast(er) before I spend too much on looks.

[12sws27]

I've seen pics of envoy'd sonomas with the back half of the xtreme body kit and it actually looks pretty good. I only spend the absolute minimum on appearance stuff though. I want to make this one fast(er) before I spend too much on looks.
Thats how I roll! Fast & Ugly > Slow & Pretty. :D

[Apprentice #4]

Yes, but the paint scheme I want wouldn't work with it. I want the lip on the xtreme kit a different color.

[oddball]

Thats how I roll! Fast & Ugly > Slow & Pretty. :DTru dat!I'll take fast over pretty any day,cept on my bike!

[rentedmule]

Added one to the stable today - the better half bought an '06 lancer sportback. It's got lots of warranty and it was the only small car we tested that I could sit in comfortably so that's good enough for me. We pick it up Tuesday so I suppose the twin-turbo LS6 swap and full pro-touring suspension build will start later that night :p

[rentedmule]

Amateur hour at the body shop continues! I got the 10 layers of paint stripped off of the rollpan and most of the dents hammered out.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301826.jpg

It's still a bit wavy on the bottom edge so I'll have to figure out some sort of jig to clamp it down and fix that. Working with metal is so much easier than that plastic bumper cover!

[Mikz86TA]

cool. You sure did strip that down

[rentedmule]

I started with a palm sander and quickly got annoyed with the lack of progress. The 4" angle grinder with a flap wheel was much more satisfying! The paint was really thick and I didn't feel like laying another layer of bondo on top of it.

[rentedmule]

I hooked up with the Syclone/Typhoon Nationals today and got a chance to run the truck at the strip. First time I've ever been down the track! It was fun but not in the same league as auto-X as far as the rush or intensity goes. I was expecting much worse on the times...

it was 80 degrees F and the track is usually at the equivalent of about 4000ft above sea level.

60' 2.34
1/8 10.39 @ 67.8 mph
1/4 16.25 @ 83.7 mph

The burnout box was fun! I left at about 2000 rpms or so - no spinning at all, it felt like it hooked well off the line. The second time I ran within a few thousands of a second so I quit! I'd post a time slip to prove it but come on, would I really make up a time that slow??? :D

A bone stock 1st gen extended cab with a TBI 4.3 ran an 18.0, not sure on the MPH. One of the built typhoons ran a 12.8 but most of the guys were waiting until it cooled down later in the evening.

Auto-X with the same crowd tomorrow morning means I get to be slow at 2 different kinds of racing in one weekend! Woot! :p

[rentedmule]

truck porn!

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/Cam5.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/Gord1.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/Gord3.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/Matt1.jpg

rentedmule in the background cooling off!
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/Matt2.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/cam1.jpg

[Mikz86TA]

great first pic of the red ty!

[rentedmule]

It is awesome but I can't take credit for the pics. One of the local racers (GrantC) is an amazing photographer - he got the action shots of the truck the last time I was out. Unfortunately I was in the same run group as him this time and not with the Sy/Ty guys so I haven't seen any good shots of the truck yet.

The GF showed up just as I was lining up and tried to get a few but they were at a distance through the fence
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/IMG_1088.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/IMG_1091.jpg

The little 'noma held it's own pretty well! I bet I could have taken a second off of my time if I did a reasonable launch instead of lighting them up for 10-15 feet out of the gate every time :D. I couldn't help it, it was way too much fun and it got the Sy/Ty guys laughing!

The speed3 that finished 5th is my friend's car and my GF was with him on that run! He's got some serious talent seeing as this was only his second race this year :eek:

Pos. Car # Driver Car Model Time
2004 Subaru WRX STi 56.858
2007 Porsche 911 Turbo 57.990
1990 Honda Civic 58.678
1900 Mazda RX7 59.933
2008 Mazda Mazdaspeed 3 60.816
1999 BMW M3 60.837
2002 Honda S2000 60.882
1991 Mazda Miata 61.118
2009 Nissan GT-R 61.121
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX 61.553
2005 Subaru STi 61.837
2005 Subaru Rex 61.881
1990 Honda Civic Si 61.945
2007 Subaru WRX wagon 61.971
2006 Subaru Impreza STi 62.036
Subaru WRX 62.494
2006 Subaru WRX wagon 62.588
BMW 2002ti 62.952
2006 Subaru STi 63.393
1991 Honda CRX 63.953
1993 Subaru WRX 64.067
2002 Lexus IS300 64.088
Hyundai Genesis Coupe 3.8GT 64.145
1972 Chevelle 64.222
1998 Plymouth Neon 64.285
2004 Mazda 3 Sport 64.291
2004 Subaru WRX 64.314
1991 BMW 325i 64.591
2008 Subaru WRX 64.625
1986 Pontiac Fiero 2M4 64.750
Mark's 2004 Chevrolet Corvette 64.920
2002 Nissan Sentra SER Spec-V 65.016
1991 BMW 325i 65.236
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX 65.586
1994 Honda Del Sol 65.607
Mitsubishi lancer evolution MR 65.651
1991 Honda CRX 65.813
2006 Ford Mustang GT 65.857
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX STi 66.935
Tyson's 2003 GMC Sonoma 67.573
1991 Honda Civic 67.982
1988 Toyota Corolla 68.368
2003 Toyota Celica 68.524
1994 Honda Del Sol 68.534
2005 Subaru WRX 68.974
1986 Toyota MR2 69.181
2006 Mazda Mazda3 69.310
1997 Ford Mustang GT 69.570
1997 Neon 70.113
1986 Pontiac Fiero 70.925
1998 Neon 70.994
2003 Subaru WRX 71.628
2004 Toyota Corolla 72.104
2007 Toyota XRunner 72.255
Gord's 1991 GMC Syclone 72.309
2009 Subaru STI 72.358
1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo 76.111
2006 Mazda Mazda3 76.648
Matt's 1992 GMC Typhoon 95.961
Cam's 1993 GMC Typhoon dnf
Andrew's 1992 GMC Sonoma dnf
62 xp 73 Jp S 2001 Toyota MRS dnf

[BigMoney]

1900 Mazda RX7 59.933


Never seen one of those! ;)

[DMP]

Nice pics.

[12sws27]

So when are the coil overs coming? :)

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

Very nice pics. Sounds like a lot of fun.

[rentedmule]

Question: Cowl hood or regular sonoma hood?

I had a run-in with a cyclist a few weeks ago which thankfully only ended in a dented hood and no injuries or damage to the biker or bike (it was my fault :o). I popped out the dents but it's still quite noticable (on the driver's side of center).

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301825-1.jpg

There's an outfit in town that's closing out and they have a new steel cowl hood for about the same price as a stock one. I'm really not sold either way so I'd like to hear your opinions on whether you think the truck would look better with a stock noma hood or the cowl one.

I'm leaning toward the low/sleeper look of the stocker but the aggressive cowl hood is cool too :confused:

[12sws27]

A lighter sonoma hood!

[DMP]

Which cowl hood are you considering?

Straight? Curved?

I have the curved one. Never really liked it from seeing pics, but it looks alot better in person. I think it would look good either way. I need mine painted.
http://usera.imagecave.com/dmp23/01/IMG_0076.jpg

[87wildside]

Upgrade to a S10 hood :)

[12sws27]

Upgrade to a S10 hood :)
S10 hood's ugly compared to GMC hood.

[Bone Crusher]

S10 hood's ugly compared to GMC hood.

:rolleyes:

[DMP]

Downgrade to a S10 hood :)

Fixed.




Sorry. :p lol

[12sws27]

GMC hood's look smoother. Chevy hood's have that crease down the center.

[rentedmule]

Which cowl hood are you considering?

Straight? Curved?

I have the curved one. Never really liked it from seeing pics, but it looks alot better in person. I think it would look good either way. I need mine painted.
http://usera.imagecave.com/dmp23/01/IMG_0076.jpg

Your truck looks sick! I think I may actually prefer the hood black! I'm not sure on the style yet - all he said was that it was a cowl induction one. I'm going to try to go look at it sometime and see if it's worth considering.

[87wildside]

GMC hood's look smoother. Chevy hood's have that crease down the center.You're nuts. GMC hood has twice as many body lines. More body lines = less smooth :D

[DMP]

It would be pretty cool to take a S10 hood and cut out the crease and weld in new metal. Basically, make the hood smooth. Would be alot of work though.

[87wildside]

That's what I want.
Center few inches from a noma hood grafted to the center of a S10.....

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

I'd say it depends on the style of cowl hood--one like dmp's would look sweet on your truck.

As far as the Sonoma vs S10 hood debate, I always thought the sonoma hood looked more sleek.

[russ_2004_85]

hey... u ever figure out a way to make the envoy bumper tighter? i feel the same thing, just feels loose to me compared to old bumper

[rentedmule]

Yeah - I used some flat aluminum I had laying around to make some braces. Basically 2x6" plates that are attached to the frame rails and the trailing edge of the lower lip of the bumper. I'll take some pics next time I'm out in the garage.

[rentedmule]

Small update -
I picked up a lower grill for the envoy bumper - $20 off ebay.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301848.jpg

I've got some mesh so I may cover the center section if it looks like it'll improve it. I'll get pics of the brackets when I put it on too.

[jgx421]

Hey Tyson did you ever get to go check out that cowl hood??

What'd you think? are you getting it?

[rentedmule]

No - I decided I wasn't going to go look because if I got there and it was nice then I'd buy it and I don't want to spend money on appearance bits!

I'm holding out to find a wrecked noma/jimmy with an indigo blue hood so I don't have to pay for paint - I'm cheap if the rest of this thread hasn't already made that clear! I found a few from blazers but I'm holding out for a noma.

[DMP]

Hmm...that grill looks interesting.

[jgx421]

Yeah, I got ya. You and Scotty are my hero's cause y'alls thinking is fast>pretty ;).......I wished I woulda focused more on that when I 1st got my noma too.....but I'm trying to make up for it now...


What kind of mesh did you get for the lower grill? is it like a speed grill or billet type to match your main grill?

[12sws27]

You should see my Jimmy in person. It's a real pos. :D I'm exagerating but the paint is pretty screwed on it.

When you gonna just say "F it!" and just go with a 5.3L Tyson? I think about it alot I just don't have the place to do it. :(

[rentedmule]

If I swap to an LSx I want it to be all aluminum so it's gonna cost me. It's still not easy or cheap to do the actual swap either.

I still like the idea of messing with the 4.3 for now. Perfect low mileage 4.3's are in the classifieds locally for $3-400 all the time and I have friends that work at engine shops so if I kill mine it's not the end of the world.

My paint sucks as well - there's swirl marks, door dings and small dents everywhere, they just don't show up on camera! I think the grill is just a stock envoy lower but I don't really know? The only billet ones I've seen are the t-rex ones and they're well over $100.

[rentedmule]

WOOT!!! I just picked up a basically new set of eagle F1's 265/40-17's front and 295/35-18's rear off of a ZO6 for $200!!! They still have some of the little rubber knobs and the UPC stickers stuck to the side of them!

It pays to have connections in the car hobby - a buddy called and told me Campbell Automotive was selling them for a customer so I ran over with the cash right away. Apparently someone called while I was on the way but I got there first! They told me a the owner swapped to nitto 555R2's as soon as he bought the car and didn't care how much he got for the 'old' tires! Rich indifferent guys FTW!!!

[87wildside]

Tyson and Campbell soup tires FTW!!!
How come everyone loves our Canadian friend?

[russ_2004_85]

sweet,, i would appreciate that..

Yeah - I used some flat aluminum I had laying around to make some braces. Basically 2x6" plates that are attached to the frame rails and the trailing edge of the lower lip of the bumper. I'll take some pics next time I'm out in the garage.

[jgx421]

WOOT!!! I just picked up a basically new set of eagle F1's 265/40-17's front and 295/35-18's rear off of a ZO6 for $200!!! They still have some of the little rubber knobs and the UPC stickers stuck to the side of them!


Pics or they're UNIROYALS!!:D

[rentedmule]

heheheh - I'll get some after work. They're hiding under the tonneau cover in the parking garage right now!

[rentedmule]

They don't look like much because they're dirty but there's essentially zero wear on them. Tire rack lists them at $1336 USD for a new set :eek:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301851.jpg

Still have the UPC stickers on them
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301853.jpg

looks like a race shop!
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301854.jpg

Here are the pics of the make-shift braces holding the envoy bumper steady

looking up at the frame rail, just behind the bumper
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301857.jpg

They're now more or less hidden from the front with the lower grill in place
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301860.jpg

[DMP]

Can you take a pic of the bumper from farther away? I wanna see what the grill looks like.

[rentedmule]

Will do - it's squeezed into the garage and up against the work bench right now so that's the best I could do. I'll get a better one this weekend.

Is that not a stock envoy lower? I've never actually seen one close up in person so I have no idea.

[DMP]

I honestly dont know what the stock one looks either. :confused: I bought my used Envoy bumper with an aftermarket billet grill already installed.

[rentedmule]

This was the cowl hood that the local guy was selling - its the batman version :batman_12 and by far my least favorite of all the options available.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120480310977&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I didn't get the truck out of the garage this weekend for a pic but I spotted an envoy in a parking lot and went over for a look - it is a stock lower grill. I thought about stealing his HID's but it was too bright outside :spy:

[jgx421]

Hell of a deal on those shoes there Tyson...

LMAO at the Batwing hood though.....those hoods are a joke...I'd take a stock 'noma hood over one of those any day....

[rentedmule]

I picked up a used flaming river steering u-joint ($45 shipped) off of the other forum and it arrived today.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f178/how-to-flaming-river-u-joint-steering-mod-395639/

I'll post up pics if I get at it this weekend.

[Jongo88]

I have one on my crew cab.. You will love it...

[rentedmule]

excellent! Does the lower steering shaft pull out of the upper part? I've had it off of the steering box a bunch of times but I've never removed it from the truck.

[jgx421]

Good deal on that Tyson.. I was interested in this thread I was reading the other day for a steering mod...http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4687

Is the flaming river unit you bought a better upgrade than the option in the thread? To me it looks like it...IDK though, I'm not too familiar with this upgrade.

[Jongo88]

excellent! Does the lower steering shaft pull out of the upper part? I've had it off of the steering box a bunch of times but I've never removed it from the truck.
I did the mod in the truck...


Good deal on that Tyson.. I was interested in this I was reading this thread the other day for a steering mod...http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4687
I put a 1991 Jeep cherokee in my ole blazer. It fit like it was made for it...

Is the flaming river unit you bought a better upgrade than the option in the thread? To me it looks like it...IDK though, I'm not too familiar with this upgrade.
On the cheep the cherokee is the way to go. I like the flaming way better though. That is just me though..

[jgx421]

So they both do the same thing, right? The flaming river piece is really nice...

[Jongo88]

Yep... They will last longer too... It is a very well made peace..

[rentedmule]

I did the mod in the truck...


On the cheep the cherokee is the way to go. I like the flaming way better though. That is just me though..

Thanks John, I'll probably do the same then. With regard to the cherokee mod I may have gone that way if I hadn't found a cheap FR joint. The u-joints can be damn pricey but they look like a really high quality piece.

[Jongo88]

Thanks John, I'll probably do the same then. With regard to the cherokee mod I may have gone that way if I hadn't found a cheap FR joint. The u-joints can be damn pricey but they look like a really high quality piece.

When I did mine I had the radiator and the air box out and I thought it was a good time to do it. I pulled it from the steering box to change # 3 plug so while it was off I just cut the rag off and install the u joint...

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

Had never heard of the FR upgrade. cool.

[rentedmule]

Got the FR joint on today. Pretty straight-forward. The only hitch for me is the same one I always have with the steering shaft - the splines on the steering box are a bit messed up so it was a ***** to get the new joint to slide on but nothing serious.

old vs. new
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301864.jpg

on truck
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301866.jpg

Clear illustration of why rag-joints suck
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/th_S6301867.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/?action=view&current=S6301867.flv)

Here's that pic of the envoy lower grill and my sexy winter tires
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301868.jpg

I'm regretting tinting the foglights now. I think I'll take them off and strip the VHT.

[Zygoat]

i want one of those flaming river joints. any idea where i can get one on the cheap?

my steering shaft is off right now anyway, due to turbo work, so i want to do it now. rather than put the rag joint sh*t back on just to take it off again.

[rentedmule]

There's one for sale on the other forum right now but he's not asking much less than what it would be new. This was the first one I've seen for cheap so I jumped on it. I've checked other brands as well and they're just as expensive.

[Zygoat]

well i would apreciate it if you keep your eye's peeled.

ill give you $50 for yours :D

[Mikz86TA]

what is the model number for the FR part?

[oddball]

what is the model number for the FR part?FR1746DD

[Zygoat]

what is the model number for the FR part?

oooh yea! mikes lookin for me!

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

They're only $70 on summit and jegs. That doesn't seem too bad.

[rentedmule]

Yeah, that's the one. For a while they were close to $100 with our crappy Canadian dollar but we're catching up to you guys again so parts are getting cheaper :)

[Zygoat]

yea, $45 sounds better tho.

[12sws27]

This is one of those things I want but will take forever getting around to.

You still plan on getting your truck turbo charged right Tyson?

[rentedmule]

You still plan on getting your truck turbo charged right Tyson?

I just want it fast - I don't care it how it gets there, it just has to be fast. It won't be for a while whatever I do. I'm hoping to have a new+permanent+higher paying job which will require a major move by next July so once I get that figured out I'll make a plan.

I'll just keep digging at smaller projects focused on handling until then.

[BigMoney]

You could always give it some juice for (relatively) cheap!

[Mikz86TA]

I need a stock rag joint. I wanna see if that Unbalanced Engeneering alum replacement part is the same diameter for the ThirdGen F-body

[rentedmule]

I need a stock rag joint. I wanna see if that Unbalanced Engeneering alum replacement part is the same diameter for the ThirdGen F-body

I can measure mine if you want. Wouldn't putting a plate in there cause binding through its range of motion though?

[rentedmule]

I picked up a new battery relocation kit today (another cheap classifieds find).
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301869.jpg

Given what the truck is used for would you guys mount it behind the passenger side rear wheel or in front of it? Ideally I'd like it on the frame rail below the bed but I'm not going through the trouble of doing that right now.

I guess I need to pick up a distribution block and probably some more wire too.

[87wildside]

Hey!
If I go with the new L&H spindle I'm sending you the tall upper and control arm for shipping. No lower ball joint's cause I have the stock size studs and those fvckes cost a fourten. Hey, I agreed with you in the tall spindle thread but don't know how to say play nice other then STFU!!!...lol. Maybe that's why I failed as a mod.



PM me your number if you want. is free for me to call you :)

[rentedmule]

That's awesome dude! You don't have to do it for free though - I'd be paying some ass otherwise so I might as well pay you! I think that guy just misunderstood what the argument was or maybe didn't get the purpose of the L&H spindle in that other thread. No worries. I'll PM you later

PS - where should I mount my battery?!

[87wildside]

That's awesome dude! You don't have to do it for free though - I'd be paying some ass otherwise so I might as well pay you! I think that guy just misunderstood what the argument was or maybe didn't get the purpose of the L&H spindle in that other thread. No worries. I'll PM you later

PS - where should I mount my battery?!
Mount the battery on the passengers side frame rail directly in front of the rear tire if you can. In Canada you are gonna have to put a box around it to hide it from the slop on the roads.

Look, we all hook people up on this site. I never try to make money, rather want a person to realize their goals and if parts I have can do that then I'm happy. If the tall spindle from L&H won't work for you my uppers and ball joint's are yours for shipping like I said. Tyson is my best bud north of the border :D

[rentedmule]

I ordered some Howe tall upper ball joints this morning. I made some $$ on the headers so that basically paid for them. According to Marcus at SC&C the truck should go from having a nasty positive camber curve to a basically neutral camber curve just with the uppers. Should be a big improvement in handling and it'll help alot with tire wear - right now I chew off the outsides pretty badly.

Next step will be tall lowers and new upper control arms to accommodate the geometry changes. With the tall lowers it should go into negative camber territory and get rid of alot of the bumpsteer.

Big thanks to Eric for all the info on this sort of stuff! :D

[12sws27]

Cool! What kinda of UCA's?

[rentedmule]

I'm sticking with the stock ones for now. Depending on money I'll either go with the UB Machine ones that Eric has or SC&C's adjustable ones. I still need new front shocks too and those will likely come before the control arms.

[12sws27]

What kind of shocks you thinking about? lol

[Zygoat]

what color?

(just messin with you scott.) :)

[rentedmule]

IDK - I can't really afford anything adjustable so I may just replace the OEM bilsteins for now.

[12sws27]

what color?

(just messin with you scott.) :)
X2 :p

IDK - I can't really afford anything adjustable so I may just replace the OEM bilsteins for now.
Well yellow and blue it is!

[Bone Crusher]

What do you all think about the ridetech air bag system for our trucks. Their site is down but they have different stage packages you can buy. What are the pro/cons to the air bag setup compared to solid stance.

[rentedmule]

I'd check around on protouring.com. There seem to lots of guys running air systems for performance applications there. It won't help with the built in problems of poor suspension geometry but it's infinitely tunable so I would imagine you could dial in the ride perfectly.

[rentedmule]

I ordered a set of tubular upper control arms for tall ball joints from UB Machine this morning. They're similar to the ones Eric (offcamber) and Micheal (dusterbd13) are running except drilled for Howe upper BJs. I'm getting them powder-coated and with steel bushings and they're still only $65 an arm! :D

They're a Christmas present from the GF - she's annoyed that she's being forced to buy me truck parts but she's dealing with it! I'm going to wait until everything arrives and install it as unit instead of trying to get the old BJs out of the stock control arms.

I love that they don't build them until you call - I think these will only be the 3rd or 4th set ever made? Cool! :cool:

[12sws27]

WoW! $65 each! I had no idea they would be that affordable. What do you think they charge for lowers?

[rentedmule]

I was also surprised but that's what Eric paid too. I don't know if they make lowers, I should have asked!

[spideyjected]

That is cool!

[russ_2004_85]

very well priced.... send me a link to this place? lol i wanna take a look

[rentedmule]

http://www.ubmachine.com/index.html

I think you just have to call them - their catalog has a million things in it.

[rentedmule]

Here's a pic in Eric's thread.
http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18468&page=20

[russ_2004_85]

http://www.ubmachine.com/index.html

I think you just have to call them - their catalog has a million things in it.
ya.. cant find anything on their site... what i do? just ask about 2nd gen upper control arms? why you using different ball joints? whats special about the ones youre using vs erics?

[rentedmule]

The ball joints that Eric and I have are functionally the same but have different mounting pattern (I think). The stud on both of these ball joints is 0.5" longer than on a typical s10 ball joint. It improves the geometry of the suspension for better handling - Eric or Micheal could explain it better than I could.

The UB Machine upper control arms are built specifically for the taller ball joints. I think Micheal and Eric designed them based on the much more expensive SC&C adjustable ones (http://www.scandc.com/suspensions.htm).

The mounting plate on the upper control arm needs to be angled down a bit to stop the taller BJs from exceeding there range of motion and binding and breaking when the suspension is fully compressed.

I think the UCAs are also a bit shorter than stock to give more negative camber when the suspension is loaded up (i.e. during hard cornering) so you get better tire contact and more grip. With the stock setup I was wearing the outside edges of my front tires out because the suspension would cause the wheel to lean outwards during turns (i.e. positive camber).

Basically what I'll have right now is a cheaper version of the SC&C Stage 1 package and I'll be adding tall lower ball joints soon to make it equivalent to the Stage 2 package.

I don't know for sure but I think UB Machine make a stock replacement UCA as well - it'll be the same as a G-body UCA.

[russ_2004_85]

how much are the howe ball joints? what else you need to compete this? just the ball joints and the control arms? is it the top arm that needs to be pressed? or the bottom? i forget..

[rentedmule]

Bottom needs to be pressed, top is bolt in. The Howe BJ's are something like $85 a piece vs. the $15 or so for standard ones. Power Performance is supposed to be making them sometime soon for much cheaper but they keep putting of the release date.

The UCAs, and tall upper and/or lower BJs are all you need for the handling improvements. I'm not sure how easy it'll be to align the truck without adjustable upper control arms though.

[russ_2004_85]

Bottom needs to be pressed, top is bolt in. The Howe BJ's are something like $85 a piece vs. the $15 or so for standard ones. Power Performance is supposed to be making them sometime soon for much cheaper but they keep putting of the release date.

The UCAs, and tall upper and/or lower BJs are all you need for the handling improvements. I'm not sure how easy it'll be to align the truck without adjustable upper control arms though.
ahh.. i never even thought about allignment... let me know when u do urs.. lol... so 85 a piece? not a pair? so 340$ for all 4 ball joints? upper and lowers... did i get thar right?

[rentedmule]

Bought a zex nitrous kit off ebay canada today for a song. Not sure what I'll do with it yet though. I think I got it so cheap because the ad had almost no info but the seller had good feedback. I think it's a dry kit but I'll have to see what's there when it arrives. I may resell it or just try to accumulate the right parts to make it a wet kit.

I should really stop surfing ebay.

[Zygoat]

I should really stop surfing ebay.

find me some killer deals!

[rentedmule]

The parts fairy arrived! Tall upper balljoints came a few days ago (still no UB machine control arms).

HAL Stocker Star AL front shocks off Ebay - these are beautiful in real life :hail::D.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301979.jpg

I got them for about $260 Canadian shipped which is a bit better than the $280 + shipping USD retail cost. My bilsteins have been shot for a while and I was going to buy anyway. They're adjustable so hopefully I'll be able to dial them in to a softer setting for everyday use and firm them up for the track.

Finally got the NAAAWWWZZZZ too :p. Definitely a dry kit as I suspected but still worth the price I paid. Hopefully by the summer I'll have the rest of the bits collected to convert to a wet shot and get it on.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301978.jpg

[rentedmule]

updated above post

[Mikz86TA]

Those shaocks are bad azz

[12sws27]

Those shaocks are bad azz
Yeah they are! Am I correct in that they are about the same length as stock or like just a tad bit shorter right?

[rentedmule]

Is it on yet?


The shocks are anyway! The install was cake except for a broken captive nut that I had to cut off. I still haven't had a chance to test them out though. I set them at 3 clicks in from the softest setting to start but that may be too low based on the trusty push down on the core support test :p

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301983.jpg

I'm not sure if they're shorter than stock length - I totally forgot to measure them before I put them on!

[russ_2004_85]

looks nice.. cant wait to hear how they handle..

[rentedmule]

Took it for a drive a few hours ago. They made quite a difference over the old bilsteins. It's much more comfortable to drive now!

[Zygoat]

cool, lookin good.

[87wildside]

Shocks!

I'm surprised they made their way onto the truck so fast...lol

[rentedmule]

Shocks!

I'm surprised they made their way onto the truck so fast...lol

LOL! I'd already changed my shocks once before so I knew what I was getting in to!

Unfortunately both my oil and fuel filters are seized on solid. I stripped one oil filter wrench and then shattered a second trying to get it off (apparently plastic doesn't like to be wrenched on at -20). I then worked at my fuel filter for about 30 mins before deciding it didn't need to be changed after all! :p

[rentedmule]

I just talked to UB Machine and they billed/shipped my upper control arms to the wrong person. Some nascar team is probably running them now! They're supposed to build me another set and ship them out ASAP.

[87wildside]

lol

[Mikz86TA]

They billed the other guy for them?

Not they billed you and sent them to th other guy right??

[rentedmule]

yeah, that was the weird thing - I didn't even get billed for them!

[Mikz86TA]

thats good. situation sux but good u werent charged

[rentedmule]

kitteh has perfect new overhead console for $25! It was actually $27 but I found $2 american above the visor of the blazer that I pulled it from!!! I also pulled as much of the harness as I could. Anyone done this install?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301985.jpg

[87wildside]

Man, that's one possessed looking cat....evil looking mother fvcker.

[Bone Crusher]

I think Mike or someone else has posted a thread on it IIRC. I would have to hunt for it

[87wildside]

Oh yeah, I posted something about the OHC years ago....

[rentedmule]

LOL, I caught the cat mid-stretch/yawn so she looks crazy!
I found this awesome writeup on the other forum.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f200/overhead-blazer-console-install-214399/

I'm not in a hurry to tear my interior apart again so it's not going on any time soon - I just couldn't pass it up since it's the first one I've seen at the wreckers in this condition. I may have to go back and grab the air temp sensor though - I tried to find it while I was there but I really had no idea where to look for it!

[12sws27]

That a cute looking pussie you got there Tyson....

I got one of those over head things....I think the only thing I ever use on it is a light or 2 every now and then. I look at the temp thing from time to time but I think it's 5* off. It'll look cool in your truck.

[trusconi]

behind the grill i have a OHC in my blazer i love it.

[87wildside]

LOL, I caught the cat mid-stretch/yawn so she looks crazy!
I found this awesome writeup on the other forum.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f200/overhead-blazer-console-install-214399/

I'm not in a hurry to tear my interior apart again so it's not going on any time soon - I just couldn't pass it up since it's the first one I've seen at the wreckers in this condition. I may have to go back and grab the air temp sensor though - I tried to find it while I was there but I really had no idea where to look for it!
No see the cat's crazy. F your story, we don't care.

Tyson, I love you in a very gay way...lmao

[12sws27]

Tyson, I love you in a very gay way...lmaoMe too! Wanna fight about it?

[87wildside]

LMAO!
Poor Tyson, me and Scott are gonna butt sex you...hahahahahahaha

[rentedmule]

LOL! The winner gets me but you also gotta pay for my plane ticket

[87wildside]

good sport

[12sws27]

LOL! The winner gets me but you also gotta pay for my plane ticket
Ok. As long as you were that pink cowboy hat that is in your avy.

[87wildside]

haha

[rentedmule]

Ok. As long as you were that pink cowboy hat that is in your avy.

"I only take my hat off for one thing..."

[87wildside]

well now we are gonna gang bang Chris...lol

[rentedmule]

I just picked up a new Jacob's Mastermind off of ebay for $70 so the nitrous build should be safer now.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JAC-383806/?rtype=10

I'm guessing that as long as fueling is OK you can probably safely run a bigger shot with a progressive system - is that true?

[russ_2004_85]

still no upper control arms?

i want to hear your experience ... im palning on getting them myself. when i hear you got yours...

[Zygoat]

maybe if you order them now you will get HIS. just ask the other guys who got his stuff. :P

[rentedmule]

LOL, still no arms but they're supposedly working on them. My truck is occasionally making some clunking noises which may or may not be upper ball joints so I hope they arrive soon.

[russ_2004_85]

LOL, still no arms but they're supposedly working on them. My truck is occasionally making some clunking noises which may or may not be upper ball joints so I hope they arrive soon.
me too.
hey.. can you do upper and lower tall balljoints without the tubular control arms?
or are the tubualr control arms needed??

or.. can you just do the uppers tubular and leave lowers stock?
i got the funds for this now.. i want to get what i need before i soend the money on something else. lol

[rentedmule]

My truck has made some type of clunking noise or another since the day I bought it. I've checked my ball joints and all the control arm bushings over and over according to the protocols I've found in the Haynes manual and on here and I can't see any indication that they're gone. I've also fixed my hood hinges about 18000 times :mad: so I'm pretty sure this is suspension related :confused:. I'm still going to race it as-is so if you don't hear from me for a while....

Any info I have on suspension mods is all second hand so take it for what it's worth! According to Eric and dusterbd13 (Michael) as long as you don't have too much spring drop (over 2-3"?) you can do tall upper BJs without the arms but you won't get as much of an improvement in handling. The UCAs are designed to give you more negative camber when the suspension compresses which improves cornering grip.

You probably can't do tall upper and lower BJs on stock arms because the BJs can start to bind if the control arm angles are too severe. The specific upper control arms correct for this.

As far as I can understand, the tall balljoints move the control arms apart which improves the overall geometry of the suspension - I'm not even going to attempt to explain what it does to roll center migration and all that crap, I get confused sometimes when I forget to take my medication. I do know that the tall lowers will drop you about .5" and improve bump steer.

Doing the tall upper balljoints with the correct control arms will make a big improvement in handling and you can leave it there and be good to go. The tall lower BJs will improve handling even more but I get the feeling from the pro-touring crowd that it's possible to take things too far and make the suspension too aggressive. I'm not sure if that's an issue with S10's though.

[Zygoat]

I get confused sometimes when I forget to take my medication.

was that a sin city quote?

[rentedmule]

was that a sin city quote?

nice catch! my favorite movie/character ever :D

[Zygoat]

i liked him quite a bit too!

marv.

[rentedmule]

Found a set of edelbrock valve covers for $20. They're in the mail now so I don't know exactly how rough they are but they're just chunks of aluminum so they should clean up okay.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/edelbrock1.jpg

I know I'll need to mod the A/C compressor bracket to fit them but do I need longer bolts or special gaskets?

[BigMoney]

Are you planning any valvetrain fun-and-games to necessitate different valve covers, or did you just want a different look? (I apologize if this was mentioned already and I missed it)

[rentedmule]

No immediate plans but I have considered doing 1.6 rockers sometime down the line. I just picked them up because they were cheap!

[BigMoney]

$20 is really cheap! You always seem to find great deals.

[rentedmule]

$20 is really cheap! You always seem to find great deals.

I piss away alot of time browsing classifieds :D

I also constantly search part numbers and throw in low-ball bids on ebay and every now and then I win one!

[12sws27]

Lucky bastard!

You'll be able to tell if they use the same style valve cover seal you have now or the older valve covers gaskets just by looking at the covers when you get them. If they use the same seals you presently have on your composite stock covers they will have a channel the seal sits in. If they use the old style gaskets the mounting surface will be smooth and flat w/o a channel.

By looking at them it appears they use the newer valve cover bolts too. But I could be wrong. From the pic the holes look bigger. The newer cover use a bolt that is fatter in diameter towards the hex head then at the end where the threads are. The older style are the same diameter the whole length of the bolt and is thinner altogether.

[rentedmule]

Thanks Scott!

I also got my nitrous controller and some new bottle brackets in the mail today - it's coming together!

[rentedmule]

Sweet! My control arms just showed up too!

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302018.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302019.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302020.jpg

The balljoints are just sitting in there right now for photo-op purposes
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302021.jpg

I wish I had time to get them on before sunday's auto-X race. The weather has been great here and I think it may be a bare pavement/vette wheels race :)

[12sws27]

BTW, Rabidbandit has those VCs. So if you wanted to know for sure what seals/gaskets and bolts they use before you get the VCs, I'd ask him.

[russ_2004_85]

sweet on the control arms!

go put em on, hurry.

my money is burning a hole in my pocket. lol i want to get these but want to hear from you how they do.
they look nice.

[DMP]

I piss away alot of time browsing classifieds :D

I also constantly search part numbers and throw in low-ball bids on ebay and every now and then I win one!

I do the same thing. I save so much money that way.

[russ_2004_85]

where can i find out if this setup will be ok with my 2" belltech lowering springs? do you know or who can we find out from?

[rentedmule]

The arms will let you run the tall balljoints with 2" springs no problem. dusterbd13 and offcamber are both running the same arms with at least that much spring drop. That's really only 0.5" more than my ZQ8 coils - they should work fine.

[russ_2004_85]

ok.. good to know.. im going to call and get mie on monday.. ty sir

[trusconi]

The arms will let you run the tall balljoints with 2" springs no problem. dusterbd13 and 87wildside are both running the same arms with at least that much spring drop. That's really only 0.5" more than my ZQ8 coils - they should work fine.
fixed:D

[rentedmule]

damn eric! i can't keep his name straight! LOL

[rentedmule]

Does anyone have pics of an envoy foglight installed?

I picked up a set from a member on the other forum to replace the crappy aftermarket ones I have in there now and the install is not obvious! The bracket doesn't seem to line up with anything on the bumper - I don't see matching tabs for the 3 on this bracket.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302046.jpg

[russ_2004_85]

if you can wait till it stops snowing ill snap a pic of mine.. i could be wrong.. its been a while since ive looked at them but those dont look 100% right. ill confirm probly by thurs. the storm will be gone tomorrow.

[russ_2004_85]

nevermind.. i just remember i had a spare one. so i went and grabbed it.. so what you need to do is remove the metal bracket thats on it. more than like he got you fog lamps from a van or bonneville or something. all youre gonna need is the fog lamp its self and the spring thing on it. pretty much just remove the spring and the 2 tag things and youre set... i suck at explaining but im sure youll get it

[rentedmule]

So the two pin thingies in this pic are just those plastic retainer dealies holding the light onto the bracket in the pic I posted above?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/envoyfog.gif

I found the procedure in chilton - looks easy enough now. The brackets had me lost!

[russ_2004_85]

yup.. thats nice... easy as that. make sure you keep those pin things ur gonna reuse them.

[Zygoat]

unless his aftermarkets are on there own brackets. then YOUR SCREWED! :D

[rentedmule]

I just screwed a plate onto the plastic mounting part in the bumper and bolted the aftermarkets to that - I knew I'd be looking for an OEM envoy set eventually so I didn't want to mess up the factory mounting bits.

[rentedmule]

I got the upper control arms / tall balljoints in today. I did the first one myself and it took about 3 hours and LS2sonoma helped with the driver's side and we got that done in about 2.5 or so.

The hardest part of the swap was getting the damn cotter pins out of the castle nuts, they were rusted in pretty solid. It took me an hour to get the first one out and probably 40 mins for two of us to get the other one!

I forgot the cable for my camera at work so no pics til monday. They look great but I need an alignment badly - I have about 15 degrees of positive camber! The bolts are a beotch to get at so I didn't feel like taking them apart again to put shims in, that's what alignment shops with air ratchets are for!

[rentedmule]

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302048.jpg

Do people use anything for bumpstops when running tubular uppers? In full droop they bottom out on the bracket for the brake line. I've already zip-tied the ABS line that's hanging loose in the pic.

[russ_2004_85]

nice!

[danracer]

looks great!!

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

Do people use anything for bumpstops when running tubular uppers? In full droop they bottom out on the bracket for the brake line. I've already zip-tied the ABS line that's hanging loose in the pic.

The tubular uppers for my lift kit (4wd) came with bump stops. That's probably not very helpful, though.

[87wildside]

My truck has made some type of clunking noise or another since the day I bought it. I've checked my ball joints and all the control arm bushings over and over according to the protocols I've found in the Haynes manual and on here and I can't see any indication that they're gone. I've also fixed my hood hinges about 18000 times :mad: so I'm pretty sure this is suspension related :confused:. I'm still going to race it as-is so if you don't hear from me for a while....

Any info I have on suspension mods is all second hand so take it for what it's worth! According to Eric and dusterbd13 (Michael) as long as you don't have too much spring drop (over 2-3"?) you can do tall upper BJs without the arms but you won't get as much of an improvement in handling. The UCAs are designed to give you more negative camber when the suspension compresses which improves cornering grip.

You probably can't do tall upper and lower BJs on stock arms because the BJs can start to bind if the control arm angles are too severe. The specific upper control arms correct for this.

As far as I can understand, the tall balljoints move the control arms apart which improves the overall geometry of the suspension - I'm not even going to attempt to explain what it does to roll center migration and all that crap, I get confused sometimes when I forget to take my medication. I do know that the tall lowers will drop you about .5" and improve bump steer.Yup. You don't want the outside of the control arms pointed up on the outside is a good rule to follow without a long winded explanation.


Doing the tall upper balljoints with the correct control arms will make a big improvement in handling and you can leave it there and be good to go. The tall lower BJs will improve handling even more but I get the feeling from the pro-touring crowd that it's possible to take things too far and make the suspension too aggressive. I'm not sure if that's an issue with S10's though.That is mostly the rear IMO and/or sway bars. A lot of those PT forum guys still run poly so that could be where they are coming from. On these trucks if you were to run factor ZQ8 springs, sway bar, drop spindles and a tall LBJ you would end up 4" drop on the front which is good height for most, even too low, and a decent ride.

[87wildside]

Oh, Tyson, you just use the nut to sheer off the cotter pins...lol

As for drop stops, no. That's one of the reasons I asked about limiting straps on pts10. I just stuff a bunch of rags under the arm now but plan on running a limiting strap later.

[rentedmule]

Good to see ya Eric! I thought about limiting straps too but I've never seen them setup before so I have no idea what they look like! Maybe I'll try to figure something out this week - I might just zip-tie a rubber bumper there for now.
I'll let you guys know how they feel after I get the alignment.

[87wildside]

Good to stop in.

I posted tall ball joint alignment specs on pts10 if they will help. Don't know what you want to do but they are from Marcus.

[rentedmule]

Good to stop in.

I posted tall ball joint alignment specs on pts10 if they will help. Don't know what you want to do but they are from Marcus.

I remembered that - those were the ones I was going to use :D

[rentedmule]

Shop #1 wouldn't touch the truck - the tech got scared by the tall balljoints. I had a feeling this may be a problem...

[rentedmule]

I took the truck back to the shop I usually go to and they aligned it no problem! I should have went to them in the 1st place but the other shop was recommended to me by the auto-X club. The 1st place wanted to force me to change the lower BJs as well and the tech at my usual shop said they only had a tiny bit of play and would be fine until I could find tall lowers.

Anywho, it feels great! Very smooth and less body roll from what I could tell. The steel bushings don't add any harshness to the ride at all, it really feels much better than stock.

I'm sure it'll stick like poop to a wool blanket too - there's noticeable negative camber with the alignment recommended by SC&C instead of the neutral or positive it usually had.

In worse news the battery died on me twice in the past week so I had to get a new one last night. I've been expecting that though - it was the original AC Delco from the factory and it was looking a bit bulgy!

[87wildside]

I think mine might go to Marcus for the alignment, he's pretty damn close to me.

Hows the ride compare to stock for normal driving?

[Mikz86TA]

Kewl. Ill have to keep those in mind whenever the time comes to replace the ball joints

[rentedmule]

I think mine might go to Marcus for the alignment, he's pretty damn close to me.

Hows the ride compare to stock for normal driving?

I think it's better than stock. It's a bit hard to tell because the alignment was way out before but I think it feels much smoother over bumps now. I also haven't heard any of the usual clunking but I did tighten up my hood hinge bolts the other day so we'll see if it returns!

My old upper BJs looked messy but they were still solid. I couldn't tell if the old UCA bushings were shot but it was really hard to move the stock control arm when it was still bolted to the truck. The steel bushings are crazy smooth compared to stock.

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

That seems like a really good life for a battery, especially in the cold you have there. Mine died over 3 years ago.

[12sws27]

What tall lowers are you going to use?

[87wildside]

Power Performance...

[12sws27]

Power Performance...

Hi ERIC!!!

So they're out now?

[87wildside]

I have no idea...lol

[rentedmule]

Just got back from the track. The arms/BJs make a very noticeable difference, it stuck like crazy and felt really stable. It feels a lot different than the stock setup. The difference is obvious even in the wear pattern on the front tires.

The course was fast today and it was the first time I ever cornered hard enough for the front and rear to let go at the same time - normally it'll understeer long before the back will come out. I had a pretty significant 4 wheel side at 120 km/h :eek:. That was also the first time racing that I felt I could have used a bit more of a drop!

My buddy Andrew (shift220) was there in his turbo sonoma with 'vette brakes and the same wheels as me. We pulling almost identical times although I think he hit some cones - we'll see when the results are posted. I was happy that I could keep up being that I'm down 150+hp and running stock brakes!

[russ_2004_85]

sounds like a good time. awesome you saw an significant difference

[rentedmule]

Thanks to livewyr for the pics - he has the silver ZO6 in the first pic but he wasn't running (that's good because he would have been in the RWD class with me!).

The pits - the baby blue volvo wagon had a 347 ci SBF in it. It was sick!!! :D
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/March202010autox4.jpg

Shift220 and myself standing around wondering why that Acura NSX was so damn slow!
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/March202010autox3.jpg

Slalomy - notice the front tire isn't leaning outwards any more :thumb:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/March202010autox2.jpg

Apparently I ran at least part of the event with my alignment shims falling out on the driver's side UCA. I noticed the truck clicking and pulling to the left on the drive home and when I checked the shims were hanging on by a millimeter and only because they had jammed against something :eek:

I won the RWD class in this year's winter series but it was only because I was the only reasonably quick one that showed up for all of the events. Oh well, a win is a win!

[droopy89]

Ever figure out a bumpstop thing for the arms themselves?

[ZR1-S10]

Hmm? You say the soild metal bushings don't add any noice or hurt the ride? I'm thinking of putting in a pair of Pro-lite SPC arms from SC@C, and if noice and ride arn't a con I may go with their greaseable racing bushings vs. the rubber bushings. I'd love the better control and response of a metal bushing AND there $100 bucks cheaper too.

As for the brake line, can't you fab up a 1" extendtion for the line bracket or bend the bracket down alittle?

[rentedmule]

I think the suspension is noticeably softer with the new arms - the solid bushings didn't hurt ride quality at all. It may be a different story if you had them in the lower control arms though.

I didn't do anything about the bump stops yet. The brake line bracket is OK but the UCAs will hit it or the frame at full droop. I think I'm just going to grab a large rubber stopper from the lab and zip-tie it on there for now - I'll post pics of what I figure out.

[XTREME80]

Sweet azz, pics are sweet. Looks fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[87wildside]

Just think, once you get those tall lowers on it will camber in more and handle even better. Say good bye to under steer all together.

I just put a rag between the frame and uca...lol

And thanks for the new desktop background. That should mativate my ass to work on the truck.

[Mikz86TA]

So school me here on the 'Tall' joints.

[rentedmule]

Just think, once you get those tall lowers on it will camber in more and handle even better. Say good bye to under steer all together.

I just put a rag between the frame and uca...lol

And thanks for the new desktop background. That should mativate my ass to work on the truck.

LOL at the rag trick - great idea!!! I didn't even wash the truck for pics - I was too worried about getting it working in time for the race! shift220's truck looked awesome compared to my POS although I think he lost some time with the starting gate smoke show here :D

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/shift220.jpg

[rentedmule]

So school me here on the 'Tall' joints.

I'll let Eric do it, he knows the details better than I.

[87wildside]

I like your truck better, red sucks...lol

Tall ball joints raise the roll center height which is an imaginary point the truck rotates on. Raising it (within reason) allows the springs and sway bar to be more effective among other things. They (lowers) correct the factory bump stop issues. Increase camber curve in bump which will keep the out side tire plumb to the road while turning rather then cambering out like factory. Lowers will drop the front 1/2"-5/8" .

[12sws27]

Tyson never answered my question about what brand TBJ he's gonna use....my feeling are kinda hurt......:(

[rentedmule]

Tyson never answered my question about what brand TBJ he's gonna use....my feeling are kinda hurt......:(

LOL, that's because Eric answered it for me! I want to get the cheaper power performance ones but it seems like they're never going to release the tall versions. My lowers need to be replaced so I'm going to have to decide soon.

I also need to do door pins/bushings - I think that may be contributing to some of my clunking noises. Too many things to do and no $$$ is the biggest problem :(. How hard is it to do pins/bushings?

[12sws27]

LOL, that's because Eric answered it for me! I want to get the cheaper power performance ones but it seems like they're never going to release the tall versions. My lowers need to be replaced so I'm going to have to decide soon.

I also need to do door pins/bushings - I think that may be contributing to some of my clunking noises. Too many things to do and no $$$ is the biggest problem :(. How hard is it to do pins/bushings?

He didn't seem very sure when he said PP BJ. There was a question mark behind he's answer so I figured he wasn't sure. That and I didn't ask that MOFO! LOL! I ask you damn it! :p

I feel ya with all the crap that needs to be done but not having the money. It's the story of my life...

Door pins/bushing are easy. I did it on both front doors on my Blazer and a few full sizes by myself. Just do one hinge at a time and support the door.

[danracer]

nice pics :D



I feel ya with all the crap that needs to be done but not having the money. It's the story of my life...

+1

pins and bushings are really easy to do with a friend or someone helping you, the most difficult part is getting the pins out since there isnt a lot of space to maneuver the hammer.

[rentedmule]

He didn't seem very sure when he said PP BJ. There was a question mark behind he's answer so I figured he wasn't sure. That and I didn't ask that MOFO! LOL! I ask you damn it! :p


LOL, when it comes to handling stuff I just do what the Guru tells me to do! Eric is my internet crew chief :p

Thanks for the info on the pins/bushings guys. I'll put that on the list!

[Mikz86TA]

I think my drivers pin is starting to go...60k miles. I try to keep them lubed and maintained.

To throw another monkeywrench in the mix, what about these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1982-2003-S-10-2WD-Tubular-Upper-A-Arms-Tall-Spindles_W0QQitemZ120540240038QQcmdZViewItemQQptZM otors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1c10c21 8a6

For Tall joints it sayz

[87wildside]

Those are Spohn. Fvck Spohn doesn't honor their warranty.
http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85400

I wasn't sure what Tysons plans were but thought I remembered him saying PP. I have the Howes but the truck will never see the road with them. They are garbage for the street and/ or stock control arms. Mine bind due to a 0.0020" variation in the LCA stamping. I'm going to order PP lowers next week but I'm calling Zack to try and get this ball rolling. Hey, I own a forum so maybe that will be the kick in the ass he needs. Hey Tyson, you want to be a mod there to flex you "powers"? It works...lol

[rentedmule]

Someone on s-seriesforum had a bad experience with the Spoohn arms - they split at the bushings on both the upper and lower arms and Spoohn wouldn't do anything for him IIRC.

The UB machine arms that Michael, Eric, and myself have are way cheaper too - mine were only ~$165 shipped to Canada and came powder-coated. A pair of Howe BJs are almost $200 shipped though :(, the PP ones will be 1/2 that if they ever release them.

[rentedmule]

lol, slow on the post! Sure, I'll mod if you want. I'm there several times a day anyway!

[87wildside]

If you want my Howe lowers the offer still stands. You know how much I dislike them and would hope you wouldn't street them but the offer stands.

[87wildside]

lol, slow on the post! Sure, I'll mod if you want. I'm there several times a day anyway!If you want to call Zack and use that as a tool I'll do it. Let me know.

[MiamiZQ8]

Great lookin truck

[rentedmule]

I gave the old NAAWWWZZZZ bottle some paint

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302059.jpg

Also washed the POS since it's supposed to be nice this weekend

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302056.jpg

I should have the cowl hood, the front bumper, and the $10 rollpan project professionally painted/repainted next week.

[Jongo88]

I gave the old NAAWWWZZZZ bottle some paint

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302059.jpg

Also washed the POS since it's supposed to be nice this weekend

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302056.jpg

I should have the cowl hood, the front bumper, and the $10 rollpan project professionally painted/repainted next week.
Dam dude.. That bottle is bigger than my whole truck...

[dusterbd13]

so i guess i have to come over here to see the real story on this truck and the arms.
im glad you like them. and the reason they seem to softn the suspension is that the greasable steel busings have virtually no resistance to mevement, unlike the stock rubber. therefore, they allow the springs and shocks to do more of the work.
good that way in some regards, not so good in others.

michael

[BigMoney]

So when do you plan on juicing this thing?

[rentedmule]

Michael - I could barely move the stock UCAs, the bushings add a lot of resistance for sure! I really notice a difference around town with the new setup, big improvement.

I have a few things ahead of spray on the priority list but I'm still working on it. I picked up bottle mounting brackets and a wide open throttle switch so now all I need is the dry-wet conversion kit ($120) and a few arming switches before I think about installing it. I also need to get a purge and bottle heater which I should be able to get for ~$150. That would bring the total cost to around $500, which for a progressive wet system with accessories is pretty decent (if it works!).

I still need to get the hood/bumper/rollpan painted (this week?), lower ball joints, and door pins/bushings done before I concentrate on the fun stuff though!

[rentedmule]

I was at the wreckers today and spent a massive $3. I picked up a battery distribution block from a blazer. I'm pretty sure I'll need this for my battery relocation which should be happening fairly soon.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302072.jpg

Also picked up a spare overflow tank lid and smoothed the dexcool off of it. I think I'll repaint it black though, the body color looks out of place under the hood.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302071.jpg

[87wildside]

Don't put them in upside down :D

[rentedmule]

LOL

Actually, part of the reason I did it was that the "dexcool" text was at an angle when the cap was tightened - it's been driving me nuts since I bought the truck!

[87wildside]

lol

[Mikz86TA]

cap mod is cool

[rentedmule]

Hurray! I finally got rid of those M3 mirrors! The GF gave me a set of Cal Vu's for an early birthday present

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302074.jpg

I painted them with duplicolor stuff. I don't mind that they're not quite as glossy (they need wax) but they look kind of purple from certain angles and fine from others - weird but I'm happy with them anyway. :D

[12sws27]

Now that you got rid of those other mirrors I can say how ugly I thought they were and how much better those SS mirrors look. Looks way better!

[rentedmule]

I'm with you dude, I f'ing hated those other mirrors!

[12sws27]

Lets take a vid of us pissing on them and send it to Eric!! WoO hOooo!!

[87wildside]

lol

[Mikz86TA]

They look sweet!
The clear that DColor has is dull to me too. Wasnt just your application. The oem paint will have a purple hue in some lights I noticed also, but the mix that DC uses is wayy more evident.
Did you use the Truck Clear?

[DMP]

Nice mirrors!

[rentedmule]

They look sweet!
The clear that DColor has is dull to me too. Wasnt just your application. The oem paint will have a purple hue in some lights I noticed also, but the mix that DC uses is wayy more evident.
Did you use the Truck Clear?

I actually didn't bother clearing them because the last 2-3 times I've tried spray-bomb clear it's made the base coat look worse! My truck isn't exactly show-quality anyway so I'm happy with them for now!

[rentedmule]

Forums in general are a bad influence!

[nomaboy]

^only if you havent any money:rolleyes:

[12sws27]

Forums in general are a bad influence!

Ain't that the damn truth!

[rentedmule]

I'm taking an auto-X school this week. Did the 3 hour classroom session last night, a full day on the track with an instructor tomorrow, and then our club's first event of the year on Sunday.

The classroom session wasn't that useful but we got lots of seat time tomorrow so I'm hoping to learn something. I already feel sorry for the truck/tires but it should be a lot of fun!

[rentedmule]

It was only $50 too!

[rentedmule]

I'm sure it'll be just as awesome as this :bigeyes2_

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq3hqtfIUEA&feature=player_embedded#!

[Mikz86TA]

Dayum!! Thats one rought ride

[rentedmule]

That truck makes me horny - I've watched that video an inappropriate number of times.

I love that you can actually see the whole truck flexing - if you look close you can see the steering column move in relation to the dash when he really gets on it!

[XTREME80]

I'm sure it'll be just as awesome as this :bigeyes2_

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq3hqtfIUEA&feature=player_embedded#!



That is F-n awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!

[rentedmule]

Just finished the auto-x school and race weekend - what a blast! I learned a lot more than I thought I would at the school and it paid off big in my times. Most of it was stuff I had read and knew about but just wasn't doing until the instructor was yelling it at me from the passenger seat!

I had two different instructors drive the truck hard for multiple laps and got very different feedback from each of them. One guy drives an older civic CRX and hasn't raced an RWD for a long time. He was laughing like mad and said the power was fun as hell but he found it nose heavy and lacking rear end traction.

The other guy normally runs a porsche 997 or a turboed late model MR2 and he said the steering and turn-in were excellent, it felt very balanced, there was gobs of power (this course was 1st gear only), and the brakes were strong.

Both agreed the blazer leather seats sucked some serious ass! They suggested getting some of that rubber fabric stuff used for lining tool boxes to help with sticking in one spot.

In the student race I came 6th out of 30 and was 1.5 seconds out of 1st (I actually got an applause from the crowd!). At today's open race event I won the ESP class and came in about 3.5 seconds back of the overall winner and somewhere around 15th place out of 60 cars. I beat a really nice looking toyota x-runner by over 2 seconds :D

Only pic so far - obviously the instructor is driving here since he nailed the back of the cone perfectly! More pics to come later
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/4570098136_1f7ea187c3_b.jpg

[rentedmule]

Hows the frame holding up to the flex from the twisties?

I really don't know. In some of the side shots you can see the separation between the bed and cab so it's definitely moving around. I don't have a ZQ8 frame brace but I'm not sure if that would help much.

I've read some engineering-heavy posts on pro-touring.com about moving the engine and surprisingly it doesn't do much. I think running with more gas in the tank (around 1/2 tank) and leaving the spare tire in helped me a lot with balance.

I think I need to put more negative camber in the front end too - the outside of my front tires are destroyed after all the running this weekend (about 25 laps). I'll post pics later

[Mikz86TA]

Thats awesome Ty!
Yeah def fuel and tire would help weight it down a bit more. I assume my reg cab would not have the same feel due to weight. Do you kno the front weight vs rear weight and overall weight?
Get someCamaroseats if you want something that is more for keeping ur arse planted. or some racing seats

[12sws27]

Sounds like you're enjoying the heck outta your truck Tyson. That's awesome!

[rentedmule]

Sounds like you're enjoying the heck outta your truck Tyson. That's awesome!

I really am actually! I'm making up way more time changing my driving than I am changing the truck so I find it really satisfying. I feel like it's good enough right now to have a lot of fun with so I don't feel a huge urge to buy parts like I usually do!

....except for something to cure uneven tire wear (these were essentially new before this weekend)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302080.jpg

[dusterbd13]

right at about 1 degree negative should help a lot. you can see the outside tire rolling in your pic. also, bump the air pressure front about 4 pounds. didnt see a pic of the rear, so i cant help withe setup there.

[rentedmule]

One more pic by GrantC

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/event02010.jpg

I was running 40 psi front and 35 rear. No uneven wear on the rear at all - I could probably drop them down even more.

How many shims are too many on the UCAs? There's 6 front/back on them now - can I just add another to each bolt for more negative camber? I really don't want to pay for another alignment.

[dusterbd13]

yes. one to each bolt will add a little camber in. just use the samw size front and back.

you may have to adjust toe a little. use a tapemeasure, pair of straightedges. measure the front side of the tire, then the rear. subrtract to get a number. adjust as necessary. i like zero toe myself. little unnerving until you get used to it, but it makes for incredible turn in.

[Mikz86TA]

So you are doing alot in the AutoX, have you thought about the below :

Doing solid tie rod adjusters for the inner-outter tie rod ends. (Sphon, Edelbrock, Hotchkis). I did them on the TA (Sphon) and they ave me more feedback from the steering input. That also has 17x9s which are big and heavy plus all the other suspension work.

Dong a solid rag joint eliminator (Unbalanced Engeneering). Havent put mine on the TA yet but I read on the F-body forums they are well liked. Dont know which one (3rd or 4th Gen F-Body) RJE would work on the S-series.

Making adjustable rear swaybar endlinks from maybe a tie rod adjuster and spherical rod ends? On mine the rear is lowered with blocks which changes the angle of the swaybar. Thus would change its effectiveness IMO.
Ive seen people make front endlinks out of rod ends and some aftermarket bars have those instead of the weaker bolt-n-bushing.
Since no one makes a poly bushing kit for the rear stock 'dogbone' endlink

[spideyjected]

That is sweet!

[87wildside]

DIY alignment.
http://elantragtclub.tripod.com/elantra/id554.html

[Mikz86TA]

Researched some on the tie rod sleeves.
Seems 82-95 and 96-up has different part numbers.
My 03 on Moogs site is ES2004S which is 96-up.
And to 95 with 4wd is also ES2004S
But 2wd to 95 is different.
The ES2004S equivelent in machined sleeves would be Edelbrock 5252's or Hotchkis 1612 and I think Global West also makes them. But they dont have the Moog equivelent number on ther site..
But the ES2004S in general is 11/16" and about 3 1/2" long.
There are a wide array of cars that use the same part number accordig to Moog. Edel list those for some G-body and CK trucks and Hotckiss list them for some B-body and A Body.
Got to do some more research tho

[rentedmule]

Thanks for the input guys - I'm out of town now so I'll get back to you in a few days!

[rentedmule]

new pic showed up on the auto-x forum! I'm even driving this time :)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/autoxschoolmay2010.jpg

[87wildside]

Sorry Mike, Tyson's truck is again my screen saver. :p

That camber looks perfect up front.

[Mikz86TA]

Lemme see if I can get mine on 2 wheels

[87wildside]

lol

[rentedmule]

So you are doing alot in the AutoX, have you thought about the below :

Doing solid tie rod adjusters for the inner-outter tie rod ends. (Sphon, Edelbrock, Hotchkis). I did them on the TA (Sphon) and they ave me more feedback from the steering input. That also has 17x9s which are big and heavy plus all the other suspension work.

Dong a solid rag joint eliminator (Unbalanced Engeneering). Havent put mine on the TA yet but I read on the F-body forums they are well liked. Dont know which one (3rd or 4th Gen F-Body) RJE would work on the S-series.

Making adjustable rear swaybar endlinks from maybe a tie rod adjuster and spherical rod ends? On mine the rear is lowered with blocks which changes the angle of the swaybar. Thus would change its effectiveness IMO.
Ive seen people make front endlinks out of rod ends and some aftermarket bars have those instead of the weaker bolt-n-bushing.
Since no one makes a poly bushing kit for the rear stock 'dogbone' endlink

Been busy and didn't have time to get back to this til now. I already have the flaming river steering U-joint in there, it was an excellent upgrade. I managed to find 4 alignment shims amongst the crap on the garage floor so I'll pop them in ASAP for some extra camber. Unfortunately I won't have time for a few weeks, work is nuts right now.

I have considered the solid tie-rod adjusters, they're on the list. I always thought they were more of a cosmetic upgrade though, it's good to hear there's room for improvement there. Thanks for the info on product #'s too, I knew they were available but I also knew they weren't necessarily listed for our model years!

I can't remember what the angle of my rear SB looks like at the moment. I don't think I'm much lower than you if at all though. I recall rotating the axle brackets down a bit to compensate the last time I had it off but that doesn't allow for much adjustment (especially with the thickness of the diff girdle).

I honestly don't really know if I need to make changes to the swaybars yet. I have poly bushings in the front now and the rear end is plenty stiff with the giant Z85 leafpack. The truck feels solid and quick in the turns and I don't feel like I'm getting much body roll - from the look of the pics I think that's correct.

My first priority is to fix the alignment and get the tall lower BJs in, the tire wear is brutal on the outsides. I'm going to bump up the pressure to a min of ~44 psi for the next race to see if that helps at all. I ran the rears at about 34 last race and that helped with traction - the back is so light that I'm not even close to rolling into the sidewall at that pressure.

Next event is on Saturday at our 'big' track (air field). I bought some &quot;Grip Liner&quot; at home depot to put on the seats to hold my fat ass in place. It's a perforated rubber/foam material for lining kitchen drawers - $5 a roll and it looks like about the right amount for one seat. It's also available in black, which is a plus :p

http://www.organize.com/12x5black.html

I rigged up a headrest camera mount from some aluminum bar and lab clamps which I'm going to try out this weekend. I'll post pics of the setup later. It should give you all a better view of the inside of the truck so you can see exactly how bad I'm screwing up ! :D

[87wildside]

Part number?

[rentedmule]

FR1746DD

I had to wade back through the thread but this is it!

[rentedmule]

From way back around page 42!



on truck
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6301866.jpg

Clear illustration of why rag-joints suck
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/th_S6301867.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/?action=view&current=S6301867.flv)

[Mikz86TA]

Hmm.
I dont recal u already had the joint figured out. Prob the FR peice is more solid than the UE part. But Im going to e-mail UE and ask about the rag joint part.
I need an alignment myself but want to wait until I do the brakes because I want to do the tierod adjusters at the same time. Maybe doing the steering joint also. My brake kit wont be here until the end of the month so I got some days to thin about which one I will do.

[12sws27]

Sorry Tyson....

What if you just made a rag joint out of aluminum or something? How do you guys think that would work out?

[Mikz86TA]

Sorry Tyson....

What if you just made a rag joint out of aluminum or something? How do you guys think that would work out?

Thats what the Unbalanced Engineering part is. They make it for the 3rd and 4th Gen FBody cars. The 4G is larger rag.
I have the 3G for my TA. I have a newer 1992 steering shaft and installed the UE rag eliminator on it but have yet to install the new setup on the car:(

I want to contact UE and see if the 3G or 4G F is the same as the 1G and 2G S rag. Or send them an old S rag to compare at my cost. If its the same then maybe we could use the part.

[Mikz86TA]

Scroll down. $37 for the eliminator kit
http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/

My UE rag joint eliminator install
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Car/Mods%20and%20Perf/TA-RagEliminator1.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Car/Mods%20and%20Perf/TA-RagEliminator2.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Car/Mods%20and%20Perf/TA-RagEliminator4.jpg

[Mikz86TA]

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Car/Mods%20and%20Perf/TA-RagEliminator5.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/Mikz86TA/Car/Mods%20and%20Perf/TA-RagEliminator6.jpg

[12sws27]

So it's just aluminum? Hell I can make that with scrap around the yard at work. How thick is it?

[Mikz86TA]

Yes aluminum. See link for the type of alum. Ill have to get it out and mic it for thickness

[12sws27]

Yes aluminum. See link for the type of alum. Ill have to get it out and mic it for thickness

Come to think of it...if it's for your TA, then knowing the thickness is really not important since it might not be the same for our trucks. It's looks to me about 1/4-3/8" which we have plenty of just laying around the yard. Maybe I'll try to make one.

[87wildside]

Better have some pretty stiff body mounts or you are putting undo were on the column and input shafts.

Thickness could vary since the column is collapsible.

[firefighter]

I need a new rag joint but I will tell you the excess vibe to the steering wheel would annoy me..... I would probably go stock.

[rentedmule]

There is zero change in vibration with the FR joint. I was worried about it as well but I have nothing but positive things to say about it. No extra vibs, big improvement in steering sharpness and feel. I would be worried that the solid rag joint wouldn't allow the steering shaft to move freely.

[firefighter]

I might go with the FR then.

[Zygoat]

i have the fr joint. of course i cant offer any useful feedback yet, except its well built and looks nice! ;)

[Mikz86TA]

Well (Tyson) on the TA, where the rag joint is, it is straight. The TA has an upper u-joint (encased in rubber boot with lube in it and the headers have dryrotted the boot on my TA's stock shaft which is why I got a newer shaft) to be the flex point.
You can read more on thirdgen.org about the UE part feedback.
The rag just to me provides softer feel of sterering and less road bump feedback at the st wheel when it gives.

I need to examine the S trucks steering shaft more closely I guess.

Eric you have a point since the truck steering wheel area is mounted to the body and the sterering box is mounted to the frame.

[rentedmule]

Now that I look at the pic of my FR joint the shaft does look like it goes straight in (always the best way! lol). In my head I pictured the rag joint acting like a u-joint at the steering box junction but it probably doesn't now that I look at it.

[Mikz86TA]

Thats what I was thinking too Ty.I forgot to look at your attached pic earlier..lol

[rentedmule]

Power performance fixed their checkout to allow Canadian orders so I sent them $150 for a pair of tall lower balljoints this afternoon ($40 shipping). I guess that saves $70 a pair over Howe's from SC&C but I feel like I've given up reputable customer service and support for that cash. We'll see what happens!

Racing tomorrow morning! WOOT! :3gears:
I've done squat to the truck since the last race though - I didn't have time to fix the alignment this week and I'm out of town again monday :(

[Mikz86TA]

I am about to look into SCCA around here. Love to see what the ol ZQ8 will do.
I may get Eihach 1" lowering springs and 2" drop spindles to get the low I want up front. May look into poly bushings for the a-arms and the ball joints you got. I dont want to break the bank. Love to have a full tubular a-arm and coilover setup tho. But then there would be no blower fund left :(

[rentedmule]

I had another decent day at the track. I'm pretty sure I won my class again, I was leading handily after the first set of runs and managed to beat a 507hp 2008 BMW M5 (the driver flies F18 jets for a living). On my last run the throttle cable popped out of the pedal and I had to idle in. Thankfully I managed to just clip it back in but I lost my run.

Vids uploading now!

[rentedmule]

Mine popped off right at the pedal. I'll zip tie it before the next event. For info's sake I tried running 44 psi front and 37 rear and it was way too much. I wasn't getting grip on either end. The last run that the cable detached on I went 40 front 34 rear and it was much better.

Here's a vid from the camera mount I made. As you can see I have to find a way to brace the seat and camera more, it's pretty shaky. I do think this vid captures the intensity better though - I'm usually shaking after I finish so it fits well! It's more fun viewed full screen.

For the record I beat the X-runner in front of me by ~5 seconds :p

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/th_S6302089.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/?action=view&current=S6302089.flv)

[nomaboy]

oooohhhhhh, that looks like fun! I need to find someplace around here to try that.

[12sws27]

MAn that does look like fun! I would suck so bad! :D

[oddball]

MAn that does look like fun! I would suck so bad! :DIt's not about how bad you did,but,how much fun you had being bad!

[12sws27]

Oh yeah! I got my ass kicked at the track all night tonight but I didn't care. I had a hell of a time!

[oddball]

THAT is what it's all about!

[87wildside]

Were you hands sweating?...lol
Maybe get some gloves?

Truck looked much flatter then in the previous vids.

Can't wait to get mine done and on the track, that looks even more fun then I thought.

[oddball]

Were you hands sweating?...lol
Maybe get some gloves?

Truck looked much flatter then in the previous vids.

Can't wait to get mine done and on the track, that looks even more fun then I thought.Sure does,I may have to put a little more into my suspension..

[rentedmule]

Oh yeah, my hands were sweating! I get pretty pumped up before I run and I think that's what does it. I don't really notice it while I'm driving though. I think I could have shaved some more time off if I had stuck around for fun runs but I was hung over, tired, and it was hot as hell that day!

That grip liner stuff worked wonders on the seats - it sticks you there big time and once you lay it on the seat it doesn't bunch up or move around at all. Big improvement and well worth the $5!

I'm going to try really cranking up the shocks next time out (May 30) and hopefully I'll get a chance to add some camber into the alignment before then. I'm not holding out any hope that the PP balljoints will be here any time soon.

I like to whore my truck so here are a few more pics (by GrantC)
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/may152010.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/may1520102.jpg

[oddball]

It's yours!Whore it up!lol.Your truck is still my favorite,well,next to mine of course...

[oddball]

it is off...

[oddball]

Oh yeah that bumper ....hehe...

[rentedmule]

I have a rollpan in the car hole but I'm undecided about ditching the bumper. Losing 100 lbs worth of bumper and hitch off the rear end would kill traction.

[Zygoat]

weight is bad ne way. take the crap off the back. then you just need to shave 100lbs up front and the traction will be the same only it will handle better and be faster! ;)

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

lol, the video is killer.

PP had my stuff to me in about a week and even emailed me a tracking number along the way.

[rentedmule]

I have a battery relocation kit in the garage too so that will help if I ever get time to put it on. I really don't know how to install it though so hints would be appreciated!

It looks like the original deal I had to get my cowl hood and rollpan painted fell through but if I can find another painter to do it I may put it on.

I'm usually on the hunt for a permanent job around this time of year so there's a constant threat that I may have to move at any time (My line of work is weird in this way). This has been keeping me from doing some of the bigger projects lately.

[dusterbd13]

ok, so ive gotta ask, whats your line of work?

also, what kit did you get? i can tell you how to install based upon what it is.

[Mikz86TA]

An easy way to install the relocation kit so that there is less permanent modification (so you can go back to a stock setup later on) is to go buy a distribution block (3-4 way).
Run the new batt cable from the back to the front. You can either run it along the inside of the frame rail (pass side is easiest but stay clear of exhaust) and use insulated clamps (if you need to see them I willl send you a link) to attach them. Or you can run the cable inside the bed, hole in the bed front, then hols into the cab and run the cable as you would amp power wire inside to the underhood area.
Ring terminal on the end.
Attach to center post of 3 to 4 way distrobution block. Then take the OEM cables (one to the Alt and one to the DSide Distribution Center) and attach those to the other post.
You can get a corrosion resistant stainless dist block at WestMarine or other marine centers. Or from a car audio shop. Car audio ones are usually allen set screw type and wil have lexan covers. Fused also sometimes
I myself woul fuse the power wire at the back battery also. But you will need a hi-current fuse like a ANL or a Hi Amp Circuit Breaker. Your relocation kit may already have what you need tho. Im not sure since yu didnt post it.

Hope this helps. If you have ?? then you know where to find me

[dusterbd13]

and i wouldnt bother with the distribution block. the way i always do them is to use the starter lug as my block. run some 8 gauge from the charge stud down to the pos batt cable lug on the starter to replace the factory alt to batt feed. im not familiar enough with second gens to know if theres any more direct feeds from the battery to the harness than this. firt gens, thats all that needs done.

the tough part is finding a place to move the batt to without too much compromise. easyiest place is in the bed, but that cuts into cargo capacity. i prefer building a tray and mounting it under the bed. a smaller battery and on the passengers side outside framerail would be ideal to help balance the fuel tank weight out. i personally mounted mine center of the axle on the spare tire carrier crossmember.

[Mikz86TA]

2Gens have the power distribution center and fusebox which needs large power cable to it and is attached at the stock battery

[Mikz86TA]

Generally relocating the battery would go on the drivers side to offset the vehicles natural launch of the driverside lift.
In your case Tyson the placement would be to balance out the ratio of weight more evenly for AutoX. You simply have alot of front end weight as trucks naturally do, the spare if you still got it in centers the rear nicely and you can also put sandbags (weights) inside the rim top before you lift it back into place. Then you have you and gas in the tank on the drivers side.
So IMO more centered in front of the pass rear wheel, in the bed, opposite of the gas tank would help you out
Be worth it to try it in a couple different spots in the bed on that side while at the track one day to get the best feel. You have ehough seat time probably to be able to 'know' your truck and judge whats best.

[rentedmule]

ok, so ive gotta ask, whats your line of work?

also, what kit did you get? i can tell you how to install based upon what it is.

I'm a postdoctoral fellow in biochemistry but I was actually offered a job today so it looks like I'll be on faculty in a university by the end of the summer.

Thanks for the install info on the relocation kit guys. I'm out of town right now so I'll look and see what I have when I get back. I did pick up a distribution block from a blazer the last time I was at the wreckers.

I just got a call from UPS - apparently my PP tall lower balljoints will be here by may 27! Looks like they're really getting their stuff together and addressing at least some of the concerns people were having with customer service.

[rentedmule]

More pic whoring! Looks like I won't have time to get my hood painted before I have to move so I decided I'd throw it on today. I think I like it more than I thought I would - I was undecided until it was actually bolted on there.

I also installed/wired up my envoy fog lights and they look way better than the crap I had in there before.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302094.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302095.jpg

[oddball]

The hood and foglights look good Tyson,How a bout a head on view of the hood?Off the subject,you have 2.5" spacers all around don't you?I know it's in here,just lazy today!

[rentedmule]

Yep, 2.5" all around. Here's the closest to a straight-on pic that I took

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302092.jpg

[oddball]

Ahh,that is the pic I wanted to see!I like it!Need to figure out what I am going to us on the blazer once the engine goes in,because I really think I am going to have to cut a hole for clearance.Think I'll start looking for something like that for a 1st gen.

[Bone Crusher]

Looks good Tyson.....I saw that hood up close yesterday on a blazer down here and I have to have one now.

[DMP]

Looks good. But I already knew it would. :D

[Mikz86TA]

Looks great. The way the hood rises at the front, it looks like it shoulf have a roots blower under it :)

[rentedmule]

Looks great. The way the hood rises at the front, it looks like it shoulf have a roots blower under it :)

some day....

I dream about hearing the sound of a maggied LSx coming from under there :D

[12sws27]

Looks great but it's in need of some more drop in the front. Then it would look just down right wicked! :)

[rentedmule]

Agreed - the tall lower BJs will give it another 0.5" so I'll see what it looks like after that

[Bone Crusher]

Dan....its been a really long time since I have seen your truck. I am going to have to dig a pic out from somewhere.

[rentedmule]

The uppers don't do anything height wise but the lowers drop 0.5", which is the difference in the length of the tall ball joint stud vs. the stock one. If I have my thinking right it drops in the same way a drop spindle would.

[Mikz86TA]

Dont dount you I just dont get how a lower tall bj lowers

[Jongo88]

Speaking of ball joints..... I have four sitting in front of me. Now if UB Machine would get me th A arms.
I'm going to have to wrap my head around the geometry of all this. That would mean I would have a 2" drop in the rear and 2.5" in the front.
About dam time.... So how long did they take to get there???

[Mikz86TA]

They went to get a tan in Hawaii first before Dan got them

[87wildside]

The uppers don't do anything height wise but the lowers drop 0.5", which is the difference in the length of the tall ball joint stud vs. the stock one. If I have my thinking right it drops in the same way a drop spindle would.Yes


Dont dount you I just dont get how a lower tall bj lowersThey raise the spindle in relation to the LCA which in turn lowers the front end.



I'm going to have to wrap my head around the geometry of all this.I'll make an animated pic....

[87wildside]

hehe

[rentedmule]

hehe

Make the animation!!! I always try to picture it in my head and get confused :hypnotize

[87wildside]

lol

[rentedmule]

Did another event this morning in the freezing cold - it was a mix of wet snow and rain which made marshaling suck some serious ass!

I won ESP again but no one else in my class showed up so take it for what it's worth! I was a **** show of drifting and sliding - fun but frustrating because it was tough to get any speed up. Who would have guessed that a pickup truck with foot-wide tires would suck in the rain?!? :p In the non-competitive fun runs I cut 2.5 seconds off my time basically just by slowing down more in the turns.

pic by fugudacat on our local forum
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/Event2may302010.jpg

My race car has a big trunk
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302098.jpg

I f'd up trying to video my runs so I have no in-car, too bad because I bet it would have been entertaining!

[87wildside]

Ohhh, I has new background.

[rentedmule]

Ohhh, I has new background.

that cone haulin' pic is pretty sexy :D

[12sws27]

Your truck is looking kick ass Tyson!

[87wildside]

that cone haulin' pic is pretty sexy :DNooo, the water pic...lol

[Mikz86TA]

LOL..I vote conehauler!!

[rentedmule]

The PP tall lower ball joints are in - I had a shop do it since I didn't have the tools or time right now. It was $200 all in for the install and my old ones were shot so I was happy with that price. It's raining out right now so no pics at the moment.

I'll write a full review when I get a bit more seat time with them. First impressions are that they didn't make as big of a difference in feel as the UCAs and tall upper BJs did but it is noticeable. The truck is definitely lower and it looks like it gained some negative camber, even though nothing was adjusted in the alignment except toe-in. The handling feels more solid but I can't pin down anything more specific than that.

Next event is June 19 so I'll have a better idea of how they work after that.

[12sws27]

It's funny how much a 1/2" makes a difference. You think you wouldn't notice it, but you do.

[Jongo88]

It's funny how much a 1/2" makes a difference. You think you wouldn't notice it, but you do.
I'm going to be nice and let that one slide....;)

[12sws27]

I'm going to be nice and let that one slide....;)

Oh man....:o

[Mikz86TA]

LOL


X2 wanna see the drop difference

[87wildside]

X2 wanna see the drop differenceIt will be exactly 1/2" :D

[rentedmule]

It's funny how much a 1/2" makes a difference. You think you wouldn't notice it, but you do.

I didn't really notice it but the girlfriend did. :p

[Mikz86TA]

It will be exactly 1/2" :D

How many millimeters is it? He IS in Canada and it may look different there :D





Smartass

[87wildside]

How many millimeters is it? He IS in Canada and it may look different there :D





Smartass
http://lachie.net/maths/index.html

Math's helper helps. :p

[87wildside]

BTW, it's 12.6999999999
Or 1.269999999 CM

[Mikz86TA]

http://lachie.net/maths/index.html

Math's helper helps. :p
http://www.amishrakefight.org/gfy/





















Hahahahahaha:D

[Bone Crusher]

Kewl.....it even has sound LMFAO

[Jongo88]

lol....:D

[Zygoat]

why did i get told to f off?

[rentedmule]

why did i get told to f off?

??? I'm confused!

[Zygoat]

yall didn't click the f*off link? i did. and it told me to f*off.

[rentedmule]

edit, too fast for me!!

I was disappointed when I didn't see an amish rake fight :(

[rentedmule]

I missed it, we wouldn't tells you to eff off.



It's not eff off day is it? Where's the pics of the truck?
Pics or ban foo........ or eff off?

Haven't been in the garage since I parked it yesterday and I'm still at work now! I'll post pics tomorrow morning.

Here's a few more from the last event to tide you over:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/event2may20104.jpg

There was a 90 degree turn just out of the starting gate that threw me into a huge fish tail the first time I did it
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/event2may20102.jpg

Drift through a 180 degree turn - not the fastest route but fun!
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/event2may20103.jpg

[nomaboy]

X2.

How hard is it to get an alignment with all that aftermarket stuff on there?

[Mikz86TA]

edit, too fast for me!!

I was disappointed when I didn't see an amish rake fight :(

Here Ty, http://www.amishrakefight.org/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r21LdEQKxqI

[rentedmule]

X2.

How hard is it to get an alignment with all that aftermarket stuff on there?

That was something I was worried about but it was easy. It took about 5-6 shims in the upper control arms to get me 0.5 degrees of negative camber and I think my stock arms used 4 to get whatever the OEM settings are.

I think if you're going to race as often as I do more negative camber is necessary to keep your tires alive. Wear on the outside edges from hard cornering will more than make up for wear on the inside from normal driving with lots of negative camber. A friend has auto-X raced his chevelle for a long time and he settled on -5 or 6 degrees.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/Brianschevelle.jpg
(pic by GrantC, as usual)

I did have to try a few different shops before I found one that would work on aftermarket parts but you could probably dial it in at home pretty easily too.

[87wildside]

X2.

How hard is it to get an alignment with all that aftermarket stuff on there?I've heard of issues but either don't tell them about the tall ball joints or go browse the local SCCA forum to look for a local shop that works on their cars. I'm lucky, have 4 shops in 5 miles from house that are owned by racers.

[T Man]

Remember, caster is almost as important as camber when setting up a twisty setup

[rentedmule]

I have caster at the "street performance" setting suggested by SC&C for their stage 2 G-body kit. I can't remember what the exact # is right now

[rentedmule]

Pics with the tall lower BJs installed


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302100.jpg

Passenger's side
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302107.jpg

Driver's side lean
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302111.jpg

There's about a 2" gap between tire/fender front and just over 3 rear. I'll eventually pull the overload leaf and maybe drop the rear 0.5" but not until I finish hauling stuff for the move.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302113.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302116.jpg

I put about 300km of highway driving on it yesterday and it felt great - it feels as solid as a new truck now, I'm pretty happy with it.

[Mikz86TA]

Looks great

[rentedmule]

I picked up a set of Firestone ride-rite helper bags (part# 2209) for the rear of the truck yesterday. The last time I towed all my stuff across the country it got a bit sketchy over the bumps and the truck was 3" higher then.

I think these will be better than a helper leaf since the rear is so stiff anyway. Bags are for groceries and for hauling stuff!

[Mikz86TA]

Yeah prob a good idea

[rentedmule]

Did a regional event today with about 75 cars from around the province. I finished pretty respectably in mid pack somewhere, 2.5 seconds back from the winner in the street tire class and about 10 seconds back from the overall winner (a lotus elise on slicks)

We only got 4 runs and I screwed 3 of them by overcooking different corners - it was a tricky course. This was my best run and I'm really not sure I could have wrung much more out of it without more power and better grip in the rear (a real locker would be amazing as you can hear it spinning pretty often).
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/th_S6302130.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/?action=view&current=S6302130.mp4)

I didn't notice much difference with the tall lower BJs but the truck still stuck really well and had awesome balance. You can't tell from the vid but there's a few times where I was 4-tire sliding and it was totally predictable.

[XTREME80]

That looks like soooooooooooo much fun...........

I would like to do it in my racing kart also lol!

[rentedmule]

I installed the Firestone ride-rite kit today. It seems like it's really well made and the instructions were straight-forward - took me a few hours of pretty easy wrenching to get it on.

Pics:
The only thing different from the instructions was the bolt going vertically into the frame at the rear of the mount - you use the swaybar mounting bracket bolt to hold the bag mount on. It actually makes the install easier
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302141.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302140.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302139.jpg

There's potential clearance issues with the huge wheel/tire combo - it's fine with the minimum 10 psi in them but with more the bag mount bows out a bit and contacts the wheel. There is a second mount hole that would move the bag significantly inboard - I may try that at some point but for now I'll only be towing with my stock wheels and it won't be an issue.

Looking through the top of the wheel:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302143.jpg

There supposed to be good for 3000lbs so I'm sure it'll level out the trailer no problem :)

[87wildside]

Now you can pull a couple of springs and use the bag to adjust rate :D

[rentedmule]

Now you can pull a couple of springs and use the bag to adjust rate :D

That's the plan as soon as I get this move over with! I need to drop the rear 0.5 or 1" anyway so pulling a leaf should take care of that.

[oddball]

Where did you get the ride right kit at?

[rentedmule]

Summit has it for about $220 IIRC, I think it's listed as a "sport-rite" kit and the part number is 2209. Mine was about $308 locally (shipping from Summit would have brought their price close to that).

[rentedmule]

I didn't think anyone got pics at the last event but there are some amazing shots in this album!

http://www.pbase.com/locotoy/asa_june_19_2010

The poor truck takes some abuse!

[rentedmule]

I haven't done much to the truck lately other than clean it up from the trip and change the oil/grease everything.

Here's a couple of pics from the blackberry anyway

Would you believe the trailer weighed 3000lbs and the bed was full up to the cover? Airbags FTW! The bug collection destroyed the crappy paint job on my envoy bumper
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/IMG00025-20100724-1826.jpg

Posing with an empty trailer at the furniture store the other day
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/IMG00090-20100807-1418.jpg

I'm now signed up with the local auto-X club so hopefully I'll get some racing in soon.

I still haven't figured out what's up with my cluster/stereo lighting. For those that didn't see my other thread the cluster/stereo lights go out when the headlights come on. The stereo display works fine with lights off and no fuses were blown :confused:

[dusterbd13]

bad switch.

common prob on the older gm and mopar headlight switches.

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

d'oh! I just answered on the other thread... agreed... and here I thought I finally could answer a question before someone else :(

[dusterbd13]

sorry. maybe if i do more work here at work, you can beat me to it next time.

im a slacker today.....

[TreasonAgainstCaesar]

yeah! go do work!

[rentedmule]

I did my first race with the new auto-X club here last night. It was raining but I still managed to stay within 2 seconds of the AWD guys over a 50 second course :). I saw a few camera flashes during my run so hopefully someone will post up pics soon.

I tinkered with my setup a bit and it seemed to help a lot with traction. I was leaving the spare in, running 1/2 tank or so of gas, and had 40/34 psi F/R in the tires before. This time I ditched the spare and ran close to a full tank with the idea that the weight would still be there for traction but closer to the center of the truck. I also dropped the rears down to 29 psi and it hooked up much better and still felt solid, even when it was sliding. I may even go lower next time.

Nothing else to report project-wise but it felt damn good to get back to racing. The truck tramlines and generally drives like crap on the highway so it's easy to start hating on it but man, it's an animal on course!

[XTREME80]

Sweet! Sounds fun.

[rentedmule]

More fun today - the GF dropped by just in time to catch my fastest run of the day. I ran a 73.8 and the best raw time of the day was a 71.2 in a stripped, caged 240SX that weighed 2200 lbs.

You can't tell from the vid but the bumps were killing me. I couldn't get the G80 to lock consistently on the rough parking lot so I was losing huge time on the corner exits. I also sucked at the 1-2 shift you can see me do in the final section so it buzzed around between gears for a while before it went. Oh well, it was still a blast!

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/th_S6302383.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/?action=view&current=S6302383.mp4)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/th_S6302382.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/?action=view&current=S6302382.mp4)

[XTREME80]

Sweet! Nothing better than beating up some curves and not have the law after you. LOL

[King_Ice_flash]

I took the rear view off of mine because it is in the way. I have to find a better rear too. My auburn when I take a corner spins the inside corner, so I can't even get the back to slide. Hopefully after I get the front end fixed it won't matter as much.

[rentedmule]

I think an Eaton will be my next major mod. I'm going to pull a leaf ASAP to soften up the rear and hopefully get the battery in the bed too. My tires are shot as well, I guess I'll be getting some of those before next spring. I got something like 2000 kms out of this set! LOL

[Mikz86TA]

Look'd like a nice run

[rentedmule]

I was hoping to get another few events out of my front tires but I guess my season is over. I was greasing the front end and noticed they were starting to show cord on the inside. Boo!!! At least the rears still look good - I guess that means I need more power....

[dusterbd13]

your tramlining may be an effect of both the worn tires and the spacers required for the Z06 wheels.

[rentedmule]

How would the spacers affect it? I've thought about this before but could never come up with an answer. I think the tires may have been playing a big part in it because it's gotten a lot worse lately.

It's a much more civilized animal with the little winter tires on - I almost like driving it around town now!

[rentedmule]

New tires!

I bought a pair of 255/45-17 Bridgestone RE71's from a member of our local race club. They're not ideal as I was hoping for 275/40's but they were only $200 for the pair and they still have sticker residue on them. This is one sitting on top of my corded-out 265/40 Eagle F1 supercars (notice the nice white line?).

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/RE71.jpg

They're a hair taller but basically identical in width from what I can tell with a tape. I'm hoping the taller profile makes for a little better ride but I think I'll have to wait until next spring before I find out.

[Mikz86TA]

If only GoodYears' were actually good for more than a year

[rentedmule]

The mule died on me last night, or at least it took an unscheduled nap!

It was running rough but I hadn't driven it in a week and assumed it was just condensation in the distributor cap or something. I ran it on the highway for about 10 mins to the next town and it wouldn't start after shutting it off. It would crank fine but I couldn't hear the fuel pump so I figured it let go. It was pitch black so I couldn't do much more trouble shooting than that.

I left it for an hour or so as I waited for the GF to pick me up and it fired up when I tried it next so I drove it home. It ran like crap but it made it. I'm thinking it's not the fuel pump if it started again (is this true ???) so I think the filter may be clogged - I tried to change it multiple times but the fitting is seized onto the line. The last shop that tried to change it (after I soaked it in PB blaster for weeks) gave up but the mechanic here is used to dealing with rusted stuff and he figures he won't have much problem with it.

Unfortunately he can't get to it until the middle of next week though :( so I'm stuck tinkering on my other project!

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/VPfree.jpg

[Mikz86TA]

Hmm, I would def get that changed out. So you can hear the FP running?

[rentedmule]

I couldn't hear from inside the cab but I wasn't paying attention the first time I tried to crank it over - I don't know if it went at first and then shut down because the fuel pressure was too high or something??? Also I was cursing a lot so it was hard to hear.

[Mikz86TA]

I can hear the f-bombs now...hehe

[BigMoney]

That sucks. Nice cycle, though.

[12sws27]

Cool bike.

I'd change the filter first. Then check the fuel pressure before I assume the pump is bad.

[rentedmule]

That's the plan I heard from the mechanic. I've already tried changing it myself and it's really seized on there so I'm leaving it up to him.

I'm pretty pumped about the new bike, I built it on the cheap with ebay finds and it's turning out well.

[rentedmule]

Small updates:

The stalling issue ended up being cap/rotor problems in case you didn't catch my other thread. I put a new set on today and it's working fine. I'm working on an idea I got from syty.net for modding a rotor button now, I'll post up info/pics later.

I also finally got around to changing my headlight switch and that fixed the no dash lights when the headlights are on issue. Thanks a lot to whoever pointed me toward that, I would have never figured that out on my own and it was an easy fix to an annoying problem!

[Mikz86TA]

Glad u got those issues figued out. Interested in the rotor mod!
Old racer trick about cutback electrode plugs I remember. Thats good for dragstrip when ur heavy on throttle all the time but not so much for the daily driving. I found that the TransAm ran rich with that mod daily but felt good pulling in the midrange.

[rentedmule]

I was thinking about trying this:

http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=21073

I didn't have the link at home yesterday so that's why I didn't post it. I noticed my rotor was eaten away at the rear side of the electrode and IIRC it's the same with the terminals on the cap I just took off. I picked up the taurus rotor ($4.50) from my Dad's store when I was home this weekend and I think I'll try to mod my old rotor to see if it helps. I want to drive it for a bit with the new cap/rotor on first though to get a good baseline feel for the idle.

[Zygoat]

let us know how that works out, im interested.

[rentedmule]

I got a start on the rotor mod today

Ford rotor vs. stock (worn out) rotor.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/rotor1.jpg

Ground off plastic knob holding electrode onto ford rotor body to get electrode
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/rotor5.jpg

Stock rotor with plastic bridge piece removed. Something will have to be done to hold the stock rotor in place if this step ends up being necessary (see below)
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/rotor6.jpg

Ford electrode on top of stock. I filed out the existing hole in the ford piece to allow it to drop over the front plastic knob that positions the stock electrode in the rotor. I also filed a notch in the rear of the ford electrode so that it will slide onto the rear mounting knob for the stock electrode (which I cut off before I realized that I could use it). This step gives fine control over the position of the new electrode end. Based on the syty.net thread I think I'll extend it past the stock position just a hair. I cut the top off of my old distributor cap so I can get a visual and make sure there'll be enough clearance when I mount it.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/rotor7.jpg

Now I need some input on how to attach the ford electrode to the stock one? I don't think I have a screw small enough to work so should I solder it on? I think I can epoxy or crazy glue on some kind of replacement bridge to hold the electrodes down when I'm finished. According to the wear pattern on my old cap, the height that the extra electrode adds shouldn't be a problem.

This is a mock up right now - I'm going to figure things out on the old rotor and then pick up another new one for the final version. If it works and actually makes any sort of improvement I'll make a separate thread with a final how-to. Even with the new cap and rotor that I put on last week the idle is a hair rough so I think I should easily be able to tell if it helps.

Opinions???

[87wildside]

Think if you tried to solder it the plastic would melt before you got the steel hot enough. That guy in the link used a machine screw and nut so try that with some loctite.

[rentedmule]

I can take the original electrode off the plastic to solder it but maybe I'll see if I can find a small enough nut/bolt before I try that.

[Zygoat]

You should be able to solder it. Maybe even with it on the plastic.

[Mikz86TA]

To properly solder it you would be getting the metal peices very hot..thus melting plastic. IDK if there is a risk of arcing to the screw under there. Since its not grounded maybe not. Aluminum rivit would be my choice

[rentedmule]

No progress on the rotor project but I finally decided on new seats.

I'm picking up the set on the left next week. They are Yonaka Katana's - nothing fancy but better than some of the really low end racing seats. They get good reviews for comfort and durability and they're only 32lbs each. They're not ultralight but I wanted them to be reclineable and they should still cut a pile of weight over my blazer power seats. I'll post weights for the latter when I get them out - any guesses? :D

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/seats.jpg

I also picked up a fancy stainless steel e-fan holder bracket thing-a-ma-bob from JDB that should increase the underhood pimp factor by a few points and add some much-needed horsepower :cool:. Pics to follow

[Zygoat]

I just had mine out, I'd say about 55 lbs.

[Mikz86TA]

They look good

[87wildside]

I have to say I don't like them :)

[rentedmule]

It's totally possible that I won't like them when I see them either. I'm still not absolutely convinced on them either so I'll have to see what they look like in person.

[Zygoat]

I like them. ... Umm suede

[rentedmule]

bling = power, right?
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302416.jpg

JDB did a really nice job on this thing. I know it's just a bit of flat stainless with a few bends in it but it fits perfectly.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302417.jpg

I had to buy the FLX210 fan that he was selling with it but I resold it 2 days after it arrived and made most of my money back. :cool:

[12sws27]

Man that things just looks faster know! You better keep your hood shut so you don't get a speeding ticket!

Looks real good Tyson. :)

[droopy89]

JDB?

[rentedmule]

JDB?

He's a member on a bunch of s-series forums. He had a nasty procharged truck that he sold recently and he got rid of a bunch of parts.