questions on design principles for pressure apps.

[Hammer]

Ok here's the deal,
I'm working on the 5-10 year plan on this truck.

3 more years to pay it off, no serious mods until the bank doesn't own it.. lol

within 10 years, i'd like it to be a 300-350 hp truck than "looks stock" for the most part, that handles like a slot car and does the quarter in 12 seconds. the 0-60 time, i'm looking for high 4 low 5 second ranges, goals which may not all be a reality, lol.

I'm leaning more and more towards the pressure route and i have a few questions.


1. obtaining 300hp n/a may not require higher octane gas, in my opinion. but running a s/c certainly will is this true? and if so, what psi based on our stock compression ratio (which i don't know off hand) requires what grade fuel? i.e. the wynjammer 6psi requires x octane.

2. what benefits would i have of building a W engine with forged crank, rods, splayed mains, dry sump, externally oil cooled and bored over atleast 30, should i destroke it and how much?

3. (lets say i'm running a 6 speed camaro/trans am setup and a rear gear of 4.10 or maybe shorter) will the t56 withstand the abuse from this setup?

4. does anybody know where the optimum rpm range is with the wynjammer? i haven't seen anything so thats why i'm using the 6 speed, more options for gear choices

5. i suspect the wynjammer would appreciate a nice dual exhaust setup with an h pipe and dual cats, would i need dual O2's or O2's sims?

6. do you need O2 sims to run the jammer?

7. I have a laptop..... will ls1 edit be necessary if Al gives you the programmer? I'm considering wide band O2

thanks for any input.
hammer

p.s. i'm bench racing for now, but i've been bench racing na and seriously considering the jammer route.

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

5-10 years? Not bad. . . Mine's been on a 6 year plan. I bought this truck new in December of '99 (yeah, it was a remnant that the dealership still had hanging around), and started modding it in 2002 (at which point it was 100% paid off). Been through the two blowers and many other mods so far. I'm learning as I go -- and I'm liking it so far.

Of course, won't everyone have a ****-fit when I put this bad boy up for sale? I may sell it off sometime down the road and pick up a New GTO or a New Camaro (if/when they come out -- supposedly 2007) and make that a project car. Don't know yet. . . There's still the possibility of a 1970 Chevelle (clone or real -- makes no difference) with a blown 502 RamJet and a 6-speed Richmond tranny.

But. . . I digress (as usual).

1) Yes, obtaining a 300-350 rwhp 4.3L (or somewhere in there) IS possible without a blower. You'll still need to run high-test, though. Higher compression requires higher octane, no matter what. The Wynjammer, I believe, needs at least 91-92 octane -- but that's the way it is will ALL S/Cs. Again, it's all about the compression.

2) A W-VIN/L35 seems to take to mods a little better than the X-Vin -- at least that has been my experience. I still don't know exactly what the differences are -- that would be Jedi Master's realm to explain. Forged internals, dry sump, etc. That would be a fairly rock-solid engine. Destroke it? Yes, possibly. But, that would counteract the purpose of the bore. You would increase the cylinder size, but destroking it would turn right around and decrease it again. So, instead of boring it and then destroking it, just either stroke it or bore (oh, hell -- do BOTH) and go from there.

3) T56 should be able to handle up to 400 rwhp, at least. And it should be able to put up with the abuse for quite some time -- better then the NV3500, I'm sure! But, if you're going with the stuff from point #1 (above), and THEN adding a blower, you may look into a non-stock racing transmission.

4) Optimum range? Rpm? The whole range. It pulls nicely at all rpm and I've not noticed anywhere that it pulls more than anywhere else. It's rpm dependent, so obviously the higher rpm you get, the more boost you'll get. I'm not in boost at idle, but at around 1000 rpm my boost guage starts flashing (vacuum = steady light, boost = blinking). It goes from .01 up to 5.9-6.1 at 5400 rpm.

5) Dual exhaust. . . That's a subject of MUCH debate. You could conceivably do it. The h-pipe (an x-pipe would do MUCH better) and dual cats would do nicely -- dual O2s would be a must -- but how to wire them together?

6) I've been running an O2 sim for a LONG time now, so I don't know 100% if the Jammer needs it, but I am 99% certain that it does NOT. All of the S/C kits are meant for STOCK trucks, with all the stock emissions controls in place, so that would lead me to believe that an O2 sim would NOT be necessary.

7) I can't say for certain. I don't know what all LS1Edit can do. The ProFlash programmer that Al includes does everything (but a lower temp t-stat) that the other programmers do -- the difference is that Al has them custom tune the a/f tables and the spark curves to accomodate the S/C. If you could find out what changes need to be made and LS1Edit allows you to make them, then no, you wouldn't need the programmer -- it could all possibly be handled by the LS1Edit program.

Go with the Wynjammer. It's WELL worth it. I went to visit a friend that hasn't ridden in the truck since I had the Powerdyne installed. He was fairly impressed with it with the Powerdyne in place. Well. . . He's almost afraid of it now. He renamed that bar across the dash (over the glove box) and the "Oh my Focking God!" bar. The Wynjammer running at 6 psi provides as much, if not MORE, actual power (no bench racing or dyno-queen results here) than the Powerdyne (and the Powerdyne was running THREE MORE psi of boost -- supposedly). It's worth it, all right. The dyno sheet I posted in another thread was for an older kit and at 6 psi it provided 65 rwhp. I believe (although, again I'm not 100% certain) that Al has tweaked the kit a bit since then, and that it is providing more hp. Figure about 65-70, maybe even 75 rwhp for JUST the Wynjammer and NOTHING else. 201 rwhp on a 100% stock truck with just the Wynjammer -- add in whatever else for the other mods that can be done, and you've got a VERY nice boost in performance that does NOT affect reliability or driveability (except to move you into the "traction-limited" club).

Oh, on a side note, did you figure out what the SES was about? I know you were using Sea Foam and had some issues -- did they clear up? What were they? How's it running now? Better? Worse? Let me know!