View Full Version : Powercord question
Whats the best place/way (read as easiest/least chance of screwups) to run an Amp powercord thru the firewall?
Blazer69
03-12-05, 08:04 PM
could just drill a hole then calk it after getting cord hooked up...i ran mine under the truck thru the frame and the thru the hole for one of the floor trim clips and it worked fine
i just drilled mine right through the fire wall in the easiest spot i could fine. remember to run the power on oppisite side of the rca
LilYellowZQ8
03-12-05, 09:16 PM
I took mine through the grommet next to the fusebox. Or drill a hole in the firewall, but be sure to use a grommet to protect the cable from chaffing.
Blazer69
03-12-05, 09:41 PM
not sure what the deal with the power and the racs is mine both run down the same side and never had any problems...i have heard it can cause confusion and some static or something but never had any prolems with mine
XxInFaxX
03-13-05, 06:02 AM
ok, pre 97, drill a hole in the firewall under the heater core...should be nothing there
98+ there should be a grommet on the passenger side of the truck under the heater core
yes, it is good to run interonnects (RCAs) and power on seperate sides or with good distance apart. power will cause interferance in the RCAs...let me know if you have any questions.
98+ there should be a grommet on the passenger side of the truck under the heater core
Yep, thats where mine is and I run a 4 gauge with no probs.
yes, it is good to run interonnects (RCAs) and power on seperate sides or with good distance apart. power will cause interferance in the RCAs...let me know if you have any questions.
Definitely agree with this unless there is absolutely no other choice. Even the most shielded RCAs will pick up some EMI.
I am running 4 gau, 325 Watts and it is right beside the RCA cables and I hear nothing. You have to have quality cables though. High quality cables
On the drivers side, there should be a small indention on the firewall where the clutch linkage would have been had it been a maual. Drill that out.
When drilling your own hole, ALWAYS PLACE A GROMMET IN THERE, ELECTRICAL TAPE WONT CUT IT you will wear through your wire and short your system. Guy I work with did that with 0 gauge wire, the grommet fell out or something and bam, smoked his amp.
sniper_moe
03-13-05, 12:54 PM
I an my on the passanger side... lift up the carpet or what ever you have down and there should be a grommet there (depending on the year) mine was 96'
Blazer69
03-14-05, 12:47 AM
i have good cables and mine makes no noise so...i do plan to change it this summer but for now it works
BlazinLow_inORE
03-14-05, 12:51 AM
i actually had a grommet in my 88 next to the fuse box.... ran it through that and it worked just fine.
i just realized i didnt run mine through a grommet it just goes through a hole i guess i better check that and see if its rubbing alot.
XxInFaxX
03-14-05, 09:39 AM
i would take a look at it, make sure its not wearing through the insulation. i had mine in for 2 years w/o one and it was fine, but you should use one.
i actually had a grommet in my 88 next to the fuse box.... ran it through that and it worked just fine.
Thats where mine is. Kinda a biotch runnin 4 gau through it though. GET A GROMMET XXINFAXX
stepside2k1s10
03-14-05, 01:21 PM
One thing you might also want to watch is where you run the amp cord, if it gets too close to the engine, you might start frying the insulation on the cable.
XxInFaxX
03-14-05, 03:24 PM
Thats where mine is. Kinda a biotch runnin 4 gau through it though. GET A GROMMET XXINFAXX
can i get a truck 1st?
no, besides the grommet is probably cheeper
XxInFaxX
03-14-05, 04:04 PM
heh, i dont use the truck that i did that in. it is taking space in my garage to either A) become a project truck for a lot of learning or B) sell!
Ok, I'll be screwing with it later tonight. Bro gave me an amp and a set of woofers for my birthday. Not a terrible pricy or loud set, (I hate having it too loud) but better than the stock setup. Prolly goin to have to replace the head unit while I am at it. Any recommendations for a decent (sub $150) unit?
XxInFaxX
03-14-05, 05:00 PM
^^^^ im with stupid
Oops.
Ended up goin to Best Buy to get a mouse and ended up with an Alpine. Ended up payin $106 after taxes. And I forgot to get the !@#$ mouse.
XxInFaxX
03-14-05, 07:41 PM
haha. well good luck with the amp. if you have any install questions dont hesitate to ask!
Alright,
Stupid question.
For the deck, I need an install kit, and a wiring harness, correct?
And whats the best way to connect the wires, the twist things or electrical tape?
I am going to probably install it tomm. Just gotta get the install kit. Best Buy wanted $59 for it. I'm thinkin I can get it elsewhere for less.
And where are you guys stashing the amps in your Blazers?
I would prefer to keep it protected and fairly discreet. Security reasons you know.
Thanks,
Kraz
i wouldnt buy a wireing harness unless you take out your radio often. you just end up with a big mess cause you still need to connect the wires together. so i just cut off the factory harness and just connected all the wires with electrical tape.
Blazer69
03-15-05, 01:31 AM
my amp is mounted on my box.....shortly i will be getting a new amp and putting dual 12" alumapro subs and getting quick connect sub connectors installed in the read of the truck so i can take the box out for more cargo space...i am gonna have that profeesionally done though
sniper_moe
03-15-05, 11:23 AM
just cut off the factory harness and just connected all the wires with electrical tape.
probably not a good idea if it's a fairly new vehicle... i would recommend the wireing harness just becasue it makes it easy to match up the wires.
And whats the best way to connect the wires, the twist things or electrical tape?
electric tape is fine... it'll make it easier to remove in the future if you want to upgrade or get a new vehicle
stepside2k1s10
03-15-05, 12:48 PM
if you choose electrical tape, make sure you know which wire is which so you don't fry anything!
NO NO NO NO NO!!!!!!! First off, dont just cut off the factory wiring harness, pay the 12 bucks for a new one. If you cut the factory harness, the colors on the harness to you deck WONT match up. Thus your speakers will be off, and you will spend an hour trying to figure out which one is which, and then it will sound ike **** if you dot get them in sync. If you buy a harness, it will have the same colors as the wiring harness that goes to your deck. Seccond, I have seen too much go wrong with shoddy electrical wiring to a deck. i.e. carfire that I had to put out for my friend. Go to Walmart and buy a pack of Pink butt connectors. Use the butt conectors to hook you deck harness to your factoy adaptor harness. The plug them and play. TRUST ME. I Think that Tristan will back me up on this one, do it right, dont cut corners, you might pay dearly later on. The 25 bucks you spent on connectors and harnesses will seem like a drop in the bucket when your insurance compnay denys your claim because you installed it yourself. (Seen that happen too) Do it right the first time, if you are out of money because of your deck, wait until you have money, then install it correctly. Never just twist electric connections together and use electric tape, that tape gets bad over time, and can you imagine what would happen if your power wire hits a ground with all the insulation behind the dash? Need I elaborate more?
Tom
Well,
Put it in this morning. It was fun taking that $#@! dash piece out, but after it was out it went pretty fast. Best part is that I got the wiring right on the first try! (Not bad since its been 4 years since I last put one in.) It is currently held togeter using electrical tape, but in May I am going to solder everything together when I have the dash apart to put in the rack controls. I used a wiring harness and an install kit, (plus the rest of the small odds and ends i needed for the amp setup) I got at AMS for the grand total of $43.26. Tommorow's project is to get the amp power wires run and to run the remote wire. So, how do I get the carpeting up on the passenger side?
XxInFaxX
03-15-05, 05:47 PM
dude, get some wire nuts. not just electrical tape!
wiring nuts=house wirng.
USE BUTT CONNECTORS Those are the things that you puta wire in one side, crimp, and put it onthe other side and crimp.
sorder them and use shrink wrap to insulate them. It takes a little more time but you don't have to worry about stuff comeing apart or electrical tape getting hot and falling off.
sniper_moe
03-15-05, 09:53 PM
I've used electric tape for years and it never faile dme befor
then again i also replace it about once a year
XxInFaxX
03-15-05, 10:20 PM
all of the suggestions here work, basically all im saying is use something a little more stable then electrical tape. if it gets hot, falls off, all you need is your 12v source shorting on a metal bracket in there and making the radio **** the bed or worse, shorting out something in your truck!
Well,
Since I gotta take it out tomm anyway, I'll redo the connections. Forgot to run the Amp remote. D'oh. Oh well. I think I have butt connectors here someplace. Otherwise I'll solder them. And for an insulator I have sumthin that'll prolly work pretty well.
Ok, Stupid question number 4,
How do I get the trim around the doors off?
Specifically the doorjam pieces, as I am going to run the Wires for the amp under them. (RC on drivers side, Power on the passenger side.)
XxInFaxX
03-16-05, 03:03 AM
clips...all clips!!! pull (not too hard to where you break them!
I get allot of stuff from these guys and never had a problem.
http://www.trickcableandswitch.com/
Well,
The Radio connections were redone. ( Using Splice connectors and more Electrical tape) It aint perfect, but it'll last for a while. All the wires have been run, and the amp is grounded to a bolt under the seat. (I am sure it goes and at least touches the body, if not thru the body.)
And, yet it isnt done.
I have to take apart the battery cable to put in the modded screw thing for the powercable for the amp. Any advice on how to do this? Or is there a simpler way to hook it up?
it's just a double sided stud you use. It's super simple. i've got a pic of mine on the comp somewhere letme see if I can find it to show you
you just unbolt the original battery terminal bolt and put this in it's plase
http://www.sicgmtrucks.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=913&stc=1
http://www.sicgmtrucks.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=911&stc=1
by the way my cable comes trough under the heater core
http://www.sicgmtrucks.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=912&stc=1
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