Common S 10 problems

[T Man]

Reproduced from www.sporttruck.com

Any used truck can have problems. The more thoroughly you check a potential purchase, the less likely you are to get a lemon. A second opinion from a knowledgeable friend is always good. If you really want to be safe, have the truck inspected by a professional mechanic.

There have been a few factory recalls, but the S-10 series isn't plagued by problems. There isn't room in an overview like this to list everything. The following items can help you be aware of problems that have been experienced by other S-10 owners. Technical Service Bulletins don't always cover every model year affected by a problem. That's especially true of the older trucks. Some problems, such as bad paint, can affect many years and models, whereas other problems can only be found on a single model year with very specific equipment.

Oil leaks: A tough-to-find leak is located in the oil filter adapter on V-6 engines. The solution is a new O-ring, but access is difficult. High-mileage 2.8L V-6 engines can leak badly at the front of the intake manifold. New gaskets are the proper fix, and silicone sealant is the quick fix. Early '80s trucks had some rear main seal leaks. The solution is to replace the two-piece seal with a one-piece seal.

Engine knock: The 4.3L V-6 can have knock (especially at startup) that's eliminated by using an oil filter with a check valve. Severe knock requires a revised PROM for the computer.

Hard start: Some '94 TBI-equipped engines may be difficult to start when very hot.

Exhaust valve noise: Some '96 4.3L V-6 engines consume excess oil and have valvetrain noise from lack of lubrication and poor valve guide seals on the exhaust valves.

Loose fan: Several different engines with and without A/C had recalls for poor fan blade rivets.

Misfire, rough idle: Carbon buildup can cause the EGR valve to stick in open position and cause a rough idle.

Serpentine belt squeal: V-6 engines with the serpentine belt system can squeal loudly due to a worn idler pulley or tensioner. A new pulley and belt should fix the problem.

Trans leak: '95-'96 trucks with 4L60E automatics can leak due to a poorly fitted pump bushing in the trans valve body.

Late upshifts: The 700-R4 trans in '90-'94s may shift late or not upshift at all due to a stuck throttle valve inside the trans.

Gear hunting: Some early overdrive automatics upshift and downshift rapidly around 55 mph, especially on hills. Trans were improved in later models.

Insufficient lubrication: Early five-speed trucks were recalled due to trans lubrication problems that could cause rear wheels to lock. The solution is new, blended trans fluid.

Brake line failure: There was a recall for a possible rear axle brake line fatigue fracture on '98 S-10 and Blazer.

Brake line friction: There was a recall for front brake lines on '96-'97 4.3L V-6 trucks. The line could wear from contact with the oil pan.

Fuel sender seal: There was a recall for a bad fuel tank sender seal, which could cause gas leaks.

Brake noise: '89-and-earlier front brake noise such as clicking, popping, and squealing can be caused by insufficiently clinched outboard brake pad tabs. The pad shouldn't move when it's pushed. If it does, the pad tab needs to be tightened.

Rear axle chatter: '82-'91 trucks with the G80 locking differential can experience rear axle chatter, especially when you're turning a corner from a stop. The clutches alternately engage and disengage. The cause is contaminated gear lube. The solution is to replace the old lube with new 80W-90 without additives.

Power door lock failure: If a rubber bumper falls off the actuator arm of '97 trucks, the power door locks may not work.

Seatbelt problems: There were recalls for '91-'93 rear seatbelt defects, such as sticky latches. Some '94-'97 webbing was substandard.

Dashboard lights: The early electronic dashboards had a variety of problems with reliability and inaccurate oil pressure readings on '90-'93 models.

Wind noise: '83-'91 models can experience excess wind noise around the doors. The problem is a protruding door seal along the top edge of the door and A-pillar. The replacement seal has been redesigned.

Peeling paint: Pickups and Blazers (late '80s) built in the Shreveport, Louisiana, plant (plant code 8) exhibited problems with peeling paint due to continued ultraviolet (sun) exposure. All affected areas with the problem color need to be refinished. The problem is most often associated with blue and gray colors.

[blazen]

heres another problem (which i have)
NHTSA opened an investigation into ABS brakes in June 1994 on all
1991-94 S/T pickups and utility vehicles. Many drivers reported the brake
pedal suddenly "went to the floor" without warning. The
ABS brakes in the smaller 1991-96 Blazer, Jimmy, Bravada and S/T-series
pickups and Sonomas randomly failed to stop the vehicle with consumers
In August 1999 NHTSA announced a recall of over one million 1991-96 S10, Blazer, Sonoma, Jimmy with 4-wheel drive & EBC4 ABS to replace a safety switch that caused the vehicles to go into 2-wheel drive and increased stopping distance. In addition, 1993-96 models with 3-sensor (versus 4-sensor) EBC4 ABS were to get improved computer software for the braking system

[20Xtreme02]

Great info! Thanks.

[D-Caf]

I'd probably add that 2nd Gen Blazers/S10's have a tendency to have inaccurate gas guages after a year plus time.

[Blazer69]

i can vouch for the pulley noise and plan to change them this summer. pretty much all i can say i have experienced off the list. had other problems. water pump then radiator, fuel pump is going.

[lowriderbowtie]

hmmm
good info guys

[xtreme lowpro]

go ahead and add 98+ gas gauge problems cause everyone around me is plagued with the same problem

[stepside2k1s10]

I just posted a thread about the gauge going all over the place when the engine is cranking, I also found it strange.

[lost0138]

dont forget to add injector poroblems.. 98 v6 theres a bulletin on it to .. free fix form chevy its a real pain to get them to admit it tho

[82-454]

My heater core sprung a leak this winter. It was clogged when I flushed the motor for a anti-freeze change. Stay away from the orange crap.

[Blazer69]

i switched over to green becuz of all the bad things i have heard about dexcool. i had orange and my radiator blew so i refilled with green.

[badasS10]

I am currently having a problem with wnat i think is my ABS kicking in when stopping at slow speeds, usually under 25mph. This is with my 97 s10, and I really want this problem to go away, cause' I don't want to get hit fom making a sudden stop. Could it be a dirty wheel speed sensor?

[Sparky2263]

Bulletin No.: 02-05-25-006B
Date: January 05, 2006
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor (http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V56246589~C31704~R0~OD~N/0/41746678/42420879/42420942/58961134/34853741/34861870/73661185/56243981) Mounting Surface)

Models:
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1995-1999 Chevrolet Silverado (Old Style)
1995-2000 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style)
1995-2003 Chevrolet Astro Van, Blazer, S10
1995-1999 GMC Sierra (Old Style)
1995-2000 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL (Old Style)
1995-2001 GMC Envoy, Jimmy
1995-2003 GMC Safari Van, Sonoma
1995-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada

Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the correction and warranty information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-25-006A (Section 05 - Brakes).
Condition
Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8 km/h (5 mph). Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set.
Cause
The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor (http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V56246589~C31704~R0~OD~N/0/41746678/42420879/42420942/58961134/34853741/34861870/73661185/56243981) and the hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on the sensor mounting surface.
Correction
Measure AC voltage and clean wheel speed sensor (http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V56246589~C31704~R0~OD~N/0/41746678/42420879/42420942/58961134/34853741/34861870/73661185/56243981) mounting surfaces.
1.Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2.Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor (http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V56246589~C31704~R0~OD~N/0/41746678/42420879/42420942/58961134/34853741/34861870/73661185/56243981) harness connectors.
3.Place a DVM across the terminals of each sensor connector.
4.Rotate the wheel with hand speed and measure the ACmV's. The reading should be at least 350 ACmV's.
5.If the reading is between 200 and 350 ACmV's, remove the wheel, caliper and rotor in order to gain access to the speed sensor.
6.Remove the wheel speed sensor (http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V56246589~C31704~R0~OD~N/0/41746678/42420879/42420942/58961134/34853741/34861870/73661185/56243981) and plug the hole to prevent debris from falling into the hub during service.
7.Clean the wheel speed sensor (http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V56246589~C31704~R0~OD~N/0/41746678/42420879/42420942/58961134/34853741/34861870/73661185/56243981) mounting surface using a wire brush, sand paper, emery cloth, ScotchBrite(TM) or other suitable material. Be sure to thoroughly clean the wheel speed sensor surface. There should be no rust or corrosion.
8.Check the sensor head to determine if it has been warped/distorted due to the corrosion build up or other causes. Check the mounting surface on the sensor head for flatness by placing it on the edge of a metal machinists scale or other suitable straight edge to measure the flatness. Check the sensor for flatness in multiple (minimum 3) positions/directions. If the sensor head is distorted, replace the sensor.
9.Apply (spray) two thin coats of the specified rust penetrating lubricant (corrosion inhibitor) to the complete sensor mounting surface on the bearing hub. Allow to dry for 3-5 minutes between coats. Use ONLY Rust Penetrating Lubricant, P/N 89022217 (Canadian P/N 89022218).
10.When the corrosion inhibitor is dry to the touch (about 10 minutes), apply a thin layer of bearing grease to the hub surface and sensor 0-ring prior to sensor installation. Use ONLY Wheel Bearing Lubricant, P/N 01051344 (Canadian P/N 993037).
11.Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub and secure the sensor. Ensure that the sensor is seated flush against the hub.
12.Install the rotor, the caliper and the wheel.
13.Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage while rotating the wheel by hand. The voltage should now read at least 350 ACmV's.

[badasS10]

Thanks for the info, Sparky. I hope I can do this myself.

[T Man]

^^^We get the idea

[chevybrat]

problems i've encountered with my s10 that I were told to be somewhat to extremely common include: the seat levers snapping off, the reclining levers in particular; the third door handle snapping; and more recently, I have to get the air pump and hose replaced...somebody, sparky was it? posted a thing on the air pump and models/makes/years that it is more common on....in another thread however. Something about water getting in it? lol I should know more about the problem considering i'm dealing with it. I'll know more on Friday when the new pump and hose are installed.

[Mikz86TA]

Yup.....3rd door handle is a problem but not extremely common, seat handles are common. I noticed that the 3rd brake light lens tends to get really hot on 2nd gens from the intense 211 bulbs and it speeds up fading and will warp and split in 2 spots. Also the noted 5sp clutch noise at rest without it engaged on a 4.3 truck. Tailgate straps were recently recalled. i got mine replaced but they were not in bad shape...it was free so what the hell. Overall a reliable truck!!

[chevybrat]

Also, I think my fuel sensors or something are off or bad or something. I supposedly have a 18 gallon gas tank but I hit E and my Low Fuel Light comes on and i'll refill and it stops at 12 or 13 somethin gallons. ??? I don't know if that's common with s10s or maybe just the second generation of them....but yup...i'm going to talk to my mechanic about that on friday as well. Just thought i'd throw that in there.

[T Man]

Yup.....3rd door handle is a problem but not extremely common, seat handles are common. I noticed that the 3rd brake light lens tends to get really hot on 2nd gens from the intense 211 bulbs and it speeds up fading and will warp and split in 2 spots. Also the noted 5sp clutch noise at rest without it engaged on a 4.3 truck. Tailgate straps were recently recalled. i got mine replaced but they were not in bad shape...it was free so what the hell. Overall a reliable truck!!

What trucks were in the recall? I would assume that since im also an 03 i oughta make my way to the stealership

[Dogsofjune]

My '03 had the "improved" tailgate straps. Couldn't hurt to take yours down to make sure though.
The only recall for my '03 has been the visor sticker......yes, the visor sticker.

[Mikz86TA]

I dunno. I had ordered mine and waited for it to be built in Shreveport, La. and got it around Sept 2003. I got a notice and took it in. Took them 10-15 min to change them out. Which wouldve took me 2 minutes but you know the paperwork and stuff. Susposedly the straps were galvanized steel with the flex coating which cracks and exposes the steel. They could rust and break. Mine had a few cracks but were fine. They replaced them anyway. The new ones are stainless steel with coating. Probably gonna crack but hopefully wont rust apart. Since you got yours used you might not have gotten on the list to get the memo. Take it to the stealership and have them run the vin to ck. Ive seen the visor sticker one too......gonna rush out to get that one....not!

[minus665]

When was the tailgate strap recall? i have a busted one on my '00 haven't heard anything and would like to get it fixed for free.

[bespurcell]

"i switched over to green becuz of all the bad things i have heard about dexcool. i had orange and my radiator blew so i refilled with green."

I know it's a little late, but I just read this thread and I thought people might like to know I have a friend who has a 99' Tahoe. When he bought it it had the green stuff in it. It started running bad at about 50k. When he tore the engine down the aluminum intake was ate up as well as the heads. This is why you shouldn't run the green stuff. He had to get a new intake and heads. I'm still not saying the dexcool is good just don't use the green stuff in a vehicle designed to use dexcool. Prestone makes an anti-freeze that will work with either but I don't know how good it is. I change my fluid twice a year because my truck runs a little warm in the summer so I just run mainly water and in the winter I drain it and put the 50/50 mix back in.

[Orangepeel]

My experience with dexcool has been that it is absolute garbage. I think it was made with the intention of selling more cooling part and heads. Take an engine apart that's run dexcool in it for 100,000Kms(60,000miles) and you would never use it again.
Ok all done ranting. Common problems i've had on my 1st gens were :
cab mounts
fuel guage never reads acurate
wiper switch
faulty ground wire at tail lights
That's all i can think of right now.

[vanzalone]

After an intake manifold gasket replacement 2 years ago my oil pressure gauge doesn't register (needle stuck off scale). I assume it's just a wire with a bad connection. I should have taken it back to the mechanic right then but never had the chance.

Anyone know where this connection is under the hood? Is it the one on top of the sensor on the intake manifold? I thought this was a MAP sensor?

Help?

[Maximus]

You might have accidentally pulled the connection loose when replacing the gasket.What year is the truck and what engine do you have?

[Slacker1357]

I have Dex-cool in my truck (not like theres a choice) and I know its gummed up like a mother... I did one flush and fill, but of course, the system still has that goop in it. I may do it again in the near future if I have the money. If I had a 2nd vehicle, I'd drain it, take sht apart clean everything and put it back together.

[Slacker1357]

How about adding rear window 'shocks', 4wd issues, and door hinges?
-currently my 2 'shocks are wasted and catching a window in the head is so much fun and they cost so much I dont want to get new ones.

-my 4wd doesn't work, might be several reasons until I check it out on a lift.

-I also have to change the door hinge pins and possibly may have to eventually take it to a body shop to do the brackets

[bespurcell]

My experience with dexcool has been that it is absolute garbage. I think it was made with the intention of selling more cooling part and heads. Take an engine apart that's run dexcool in it for 100,000Kms(60,000miles) and you would never use it again.

I'm not saying dexcool is good. I'm just warning people not to use
the green stuff in vehicles designed to use dexcool. Prestone makes an anti-freeze that will work with dexcool or the green stuff but I don't know how good it is. I change my fluid twice a year because I have a problem with my truck running a little warm in the summer. So I use the water wetter stuff in the summer mixed with mostly water and in the winter I run what it recommends 50/50 water/dexcool. I've had no problems and my truck has over 165,000 miles.

[neo71665]

No broken fist gen glove box doors on the list?

[vanzalone]

You might have accidentally pulled the connection loose when replacing the gasket.What year is the truck and what engine do you have?

Yes, this is what I assume also. It's a V6 4.3 1996 Sonoma

After sitting in the driveway for over a year my 16 yr old son drives it now.
I totally forgot about this gauge issue but figured its worth hunting
down now if its only a wire.

[vanzalone]

Yes, this is what I assume also. It's a V6 4.3 1996 Sonoma

After sitting in the driveway for over a year my 16 yr old son drives it now.
I totally forgot about this gauge issue but figured its worth hunting
down now if its only a wire.

So, does anyone know where I'd find this wire to the oil pressure sending unit on a 1996 vortec 4.3 V6?
Can this connection be tested to see if the gauge moves on the dash?

[12sws27]

Also, I think my fuel sensors or something are off or bad or something. I supposedly have a 18 gallon gas tank but I hit E and my Low Fuel Light comes on and i'll refill and it stops at 12 or 13 somethin gallons. ??? I don't know if that's common with s10s or maybe just the second generation of them....but yup...i'm going to talk to my mechanic about that on friday as well. Just thought i'd throw that in there.
mine does the same but i thought it just had a 5 gallon reserve. lol Come to think of it , all Ive ever owned is Chevys and all of them would run awhile on "E."

[87wildside]

I don't think the low fuel light would be very useful if it came on 2 miles before you ran out of gas.

[12sws27]

hmmm... i got a 18gallon tank...light comes on.. i fill up..pump says i just put 13gallons... thats 5gallons in there.. 5 gallons at 18mpg= 90miles.

[Mikz86TA]

Oil Press sender is the same location as a SmallBlockChevy. Behind the intake manifold and to the drivers side of the distributor. There is a usually brass extention from the top of the rear of the block to manifold level. Sometimes it makes a 90* and the sender is screwed on 1/8 NPT. Usually a single wire. Tan with a White stripe. Works off negative resistance. Kinda hard to test without a digital voltmeter that has a increment scale. Goes directly to the cluster and is the same color wire. You can test for continuity from point A ( sender plug) to point B (cluster harness). So, does anyone know where I'd find this wire to the oil pressure sending unit on a 1996 vortec 4.3 V6?
Can this connection be tested to see if the gauge moves on the dash?

[chevybrat]

Yeah I went 55 miles once when the low fuel light came on, I reset the trip as soon as the light came on...I was too nervous about runnin it dry at that point so I stopped and filled up and still only stopped at 16 gallons. So that seems like quite a bit of miles to be able to go after that light goes on. If it's normal for Chevy, great! That means one less problem...hehe. If not oh well. Just means it's only $40 or so per fill up vs $60+

[vanzalone]

Oil Press sender is the same location as a SmallBlockChevy. Behind the intake manifold and to the drivers side of the distributor. There is a usually brass extention from the top of the rear of the block to manifold level. Sometimes it makes a 90* and the sender is screwed on 1/8 NPT. Usually a single wire. Tan with a White stripe. Works off negative resistance. Kinda hard to test without a digital voltmeter that has a increment scale. Goes directly to the cluster and is the same color wire. You can test for continuity from point A ( sender plug) to point B (cluster harness).

Fantastic! Thanks for the help. I'll be checking it this weekend :)

[12sws27]

Yeah I went 55 miles once when the low fuel light came on, I reset the trip as soon as the light came on...I was too nervous about runnin it dry at that point so I stopped and filled up and still only stopped at 16 gallons. So that seems like quite a bit of miles to be able to go after that light goes on. If it's normal for Chevy, great! That means one less problem...hehe. If not oh well. Just means it's only $40 or so per fill up vs $60+
im pretty sure its normal, mine is the same and im not worried, my 84 monte, 84 caprice, 89 3/4 ton, 74 half ton, 90 half ton, and my 78 3/4 ton chevys ive had in the past were all pretty much the same if my memory serves me right so i believe its a typical chevy(and/or gm) thing.

[vanzalone]

Fantastic! Thanks for the help. I'll be checking it this weekend :)

Oil Press sender is the same location as a SmallBlockChevy. Behind the intake manifold and to the drivers side of the distributor. There is a usually brass extention from the top of the rear of the block to manifold level. Sometimes it makes a 90* and the sender is screwed on 1/8 NPT. Usually a single wire. Tan with a White stripe. Works off negative resistance. Kinda hard to test without a digital voltmeter that has a increment scale. Goes directly to the cluster and is the same color wire. You can test for continuity from point A ( sender plug) to point B (cluster harness).

Just got home and hunted in the dark with a trouble light and found the connection (felt it is more like it -buried in back of the distributor cap).

The wire was dangling just behind the connector housing. A simple push later and "click" it was seated. I now have the pressure gauge back after
2 1/2 years.

Thanks again. You rock! :D

[LowSDime97]

Also, I think my fuel sensors or something are off or bad or something. I supposedly have a 18 gallon gas tank but I hit E and my Low Fuel Light comes on and i'll refill and it stops at 12 or 13 somethin gallons. ??? I don't know if that's common with s10s or maybe just the second generation of them....but yup...i'm going to talk to my mechanic about that on friday as well. Just thought i'd throw that in there.

ya i noticed that too when i fill up, cuz i have seen in the manual that its an 18 gallon tank and it will only fill up to like 12-13 and im like "wtf?" lol.....also has anyone noticed that on 5pd 4.3's have noisy snychros?

[chevybrat]

So I guess the question now is, is it normal? I know you're sposed to be able to go a ways when that low fuel light comes on but 5-6 gallons worth of driving? Seems like quite a lot. That's approx. 70-84 miles for me and i'm on the low end of the mpg range. It's nice to know you can go a ways when that light comes on but in a way it's kind of annoying because it's hard to be sure just how far to push it...I just fill up when the low fuel light comes on. However with these prices and my low mileage I can't really afford to fill up that often anymore.

[LowSDime97]

So I guess the question now is, is it normal? I know you're sposed to be able to go a ways when that low fuel light comes on but 5-6 gallons worth of driving? Seems like quite a lot. That's approx. 70-84 miles for me and i'm on the low end of the mpg range. It's nice to know you can go a ways when that light comes on but in a way it's kind of annoying because it's hard to be sure just how far to push it...I just fill up when the low fuel light comes on. However with these prices and my low mileage I can't really afford to fill up that often anymore.
ya really its jus weird, plus my stock fuel pump took a sh*t on me and now i dont risk it on getting the fuel too low cuz i dont feel like changing my fuel pump again anytime soon, haha...plus i dont have a low fuel light on my truck which kinda sux and also my truck has a 5 gauge cluster when it should be a 6 considering mine is a 5sp, yeah that means no tach!:mad:

[Mikz86TA]

Youre welcome. Keep us posted :D Fantastic! Thanks for the help. I'll be checking it this weekend :)

[Mikz86TA]

I didnt read all the post B4 responding to the other one.
Anyways, glad you fixed it. :D Just got home and hunted in the dark with a trouble light and found the connection (felt it is more like it -buried in back of the distributor cap).

The wire was dangling just behind the connector housing. A simple push later and "click" it was seated. I now have the pressure gauge back after
2 1/2 years.

Thanks again. You rock! :D

[12sws27]

ya really its jus weird, plus my stock fuel pump took a sh*t on me and now i dont risk it on getting the fuel too low cuz i dont feel like changing my fuel pump again anytime soon, haha...plus i dont have a low fuel light on my truck which kinda sux and also my truck has a 5 gauge cluster when it should be a 6 considering mine is a 5sp, yeah that means no tach!:mad:
its normal

[bespurcell]

hmmm... i got a 18gallon tank...light comes on.. i fill up..pump says i just put 13gallons... thats 5gallons in there.. 5 gallons at 18mpg= 90miles.

I've went about 100 miles after my fuel light came on. I was able to cram 18.3 gallons in it!

[12sws27]

hmmm... i got a 18gallon tank...light comes on.. i fill up..pump says i just put 13gallons... thats 5gallons in there.. 5 gallons at 18mpg= 90miles.

I've went about 100 miles after my fuel light came on. I was able to cram 18.3 gallons in it!
sweet!

[Chrisvich]

Even though that rear diff chatter was posted for years up to 91, mine seems to do that only after really long trips...160+ miles. So all I need to do is change the fluids correct?

[Chrisvich]

Rear axle chatter: '82-'91 trucks with the G80 locking differential can experience rear axle chatter, especially when you're turning a corner from a stop. The clutches alternately engage and disengage. The cause is contaminated gear lube. The solution is to replace the old lube with new 80W-90 without additives.

Mine seems to do this only on long trips, so all I need to do is change the fluids correct?

[Nickelin'Dimer]

Here's a fair question: Is it the sender or the gauge that really causes that fuel-level problem? If it's the sender, that's another $250 I gotta layout for repairs (No workspace of my own). If it's the gauge, then it's another one of GM's cluster-phuk-ups that have always existed. Just not to the degree that only we have odd fortune to see it be. Any insight to this guys?

[20Xtreme02]

Regarding ChevyBrat's issue of the tank apparently not holding all of the fuel its supposed to, I have found on my 2002 Blazer that the pump always shuts off at least 2 gallons shy of full. Exspcially if the ground at the station slopes up hill. If I use a pump that slopes downhill or away from the filler neck I can get more gas in before it shuts off. I will usually stand there and slowly add the additional 2 gallons to get it full and go one more day before buying gas.

Here's another Service Letter relative to light duty trucks and the Bravada. The S10 is not mentioned but perhaps someone has experienced this issue.

General Motors Informative
GM service bulletin about code p1870 - GM service bulletin about code P1870
Posted By: NJBOB on 2/28/2006
Location: Collingswood, NJ
This GM service bulletin might apply to your vehicle:
TSB # 01-07-30-023A
Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
1996 Buick Roadmaster
1996 Cadillac Fleetwood
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette
1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird
1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC Light Duty Truck Models
1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4L60-E Automatic Transmission (RPO M30)
Built Prior to January 15, 1999 (Julian Date 9015)
This bulletin is being revised to update the Parts Information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023 (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 up-shift and the Check Engine Light or Service Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93°C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important
DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive cycle).
When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is stored as a history code.
When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15, 1999 (Julian Date 9015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain revised TCC regulator and isolator valves.
Important
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor.
The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal fragments

[Nickelin'Dimer]

Okay, that sorta explains the harsh 1-2 when my '94 is cold, but what about the fuel gauge? I fill on level ground 'til it auto-stops (On low-flo) and my gauge reads OVER full by about 1/4 of a tank, going by the amount of sweep the gauge has screened for indication. Then when it reaches about 5/16-3/8 on gauge, the needle likes to start playing "Guess How Much Is Really Left!" dancing around wildly (Sometimes in wide sweeps) even while the truck stands still! When it finally settles down it's reading 1/4, sometimes 1/8 and won't drop lower leaving me to watch for slight stumbling when making slightly sudden movements or the faint, hollow sound of the in-tank pump occassionally moaning, both of which tell me: Find a fuel station, NOW! I know I shouldn't let my tank run so low for pump life's sake (And I usually don't) but this is getting very fustrating as my income requires that I make things go for as long as possible before replenishment. It's bad enough when a 4-cyl truck you bought for good mileage doesn't live-up to what it showed it can get per gallon by a drop of 10-20%, but to hafta play guessing games with your fuel level is a p-er!:grumpy_12

[holsinger17]

I am currently having a problem with wnat i think is my ABS kicking in when stopping at slow speeds, usually under 25mph. This is with my 97 s10, and I really want this problem to go away, cause' I don't want to get hit fom making a sudden stop. Could it be a dirty wheel speed sensor?

i had the same prob with my 02 sonoma it was a wheel speed sensor it would do it everytime it rained on me though....mine was repaired by the dealership they just gave me a new one....but it just may need cleaning

[wyzig]

98 SL Blazer; Air Bag warning light goes on and off whenever it feels like it anytime after start up. Usualy will go off if horn is blown. Bad contacts at steering wheel??
I'd post a pic of my S10 instead of my Jimny pickup but I have to find it under the Wyoming mud first. DROUGHT MY ASS!!!

[1low_s10]

ok good info but nothing on the 98+ whats up wit that?