Personal Finance | Gas Suppliers | MPAA | Mortgages | Free Credit Report
new crank [Archive] - S10PLANET.COM

PDA

View Full Version : new crank


nomaboy
04-05-05, 11:01 PM
have 350 stock engine. fairly fresh rebuild. the balencer bolt got stuck in the crank snout and i cant get it out.(broke 3 easy outs trying) so i was going to just replace the crank. If i buy a new crank and bearings will it run all right or am i missing somthin. just wanna know before I dump money in it and it blows up.
thanks

Sparky2263
04-05-05, 11:40 PM
I'd drill it out and put a heli-coil in it. Gotta be easier than a new crank. You'll want the long threaded heli-coil.

1993blazerlt
04-05-05, 11:50 PM
it could provide a good excuse to get a 3.75 stroke crank :)

nomaboy
04-06-05, 01:03 AM
we tried to drill it out but it didn't drill center so it would be offset. i thought about the 3.75 stroke but don't want to put a piston through a valve cause i am gonna run a big cam with this engine. that and i heard you have to send the engine off to get it balanced cause a 3.75 stroke crank is externally balanced

bvr775
04-06-05, 03:43 AM
If i buy a new crank and bearings will it run all right or am i missing somthin
it realy depaends on the shape of your engine. if it a new block or fresly machined, yea you can go out and get a new cranck no problem. If not you need to put the bering in the caps and jounels torque em down and mic everything to make sure your round and you can still use stock berings. If not you need to have a line bore done and get oversized berings.

I don't like useing helicoils on things like crancks, heads,or caps and mains. That's a quick fix dealership trick and I've seen it backfire a few times. It's better to use an oversized bolt(it's actually cheaper the helicoils).If you drilled the crank off center it can still be fixed as long as you didn't go into the treads. take it to a machine shop and they set u up. The 20-30 bux you spend to have the bolt removed will be less than cost of a new cranck.

have you had any machine work done yet? If disregard all this?

your going to need to have the cam and crank journels line bored and the cam bering replased. It would also be good idea to have the cylnders bored and honed. Most machin shops will let you pay them out over time. If your getting the block redecked this is a good time to have your heads and manifold done as well so that every thing matches up right. You won't regret the exspense of going the extra mile.

wouldn't go with a stroker cranck. It'll make allot of power but most strokers have a very short lifespan(it's why they are cheap compaired the quality rebuild kit)

nomaboy
04-06-05, 06:02 PM
it is a fairly fresh rebuild. bored .060 over with new bearings and internal parts. drivin very lightly for a year.

nomaboy
04-06-05, 06:04 PM
the reason i am using this block is because i am on a very tight budget and picked this one up very cheap. thats why i don't want to pay a lot of money to have it machined.

bvr775
04-07-05, 03:47 AM
have that block checked... It cost me 35 to have a block magnafluxed and 25 to have the heads checked. It costs me 1500 to have the machine work done. I lose the machine work if the block is cracked and i didn't have it checked. In short I alway pay to have the block check before anything is done or even in planning.
I stress this for younger builder and they never listen till they get everything togther and the engine overheats, has a dead cylender, and/or it puts a rod in the pan. Can't blame em i didn't listen the first few times I built and engine either.I got luicky a few times, but that last time i leaned my lesson.

let me add this. The average independant builder takes 5 years to get a street rod on the road. just cause the TV shows can throw assbux at a car in 6 days dosent mean they should.