off topic, but i think you guys can help

[imdawrlus]

i'm going to buy an 89 gmc sierra V8 350 5 spd 4X4...is the sierra and the silverado the same thing?? just like the s10 and the sonoma?? anyways the engine is only 20K miles old and it has a brand new cluch...it has 130K total miles and comes complete with a plow...i'm paying 2100...sound worth it? also i'm wondering what kind of real world mileage these things get, right now with the S10 i get 20 mpg and if i only got 14 mpg with this truck it would be tough...anyways my question is about the mileage...what do they get, and if i tweaked it whats the most i could get it up to?? THANKS!

[1993blazerlt]

yes the serria and the sliverado are the same thing if is in good running condtion 14 sounds about right 2100 sounds pretty good my dad just sold his 93 with 130 and orignal engine for 6000

[Sparky2263]

Full size 4x4 mileage is gonna range from 12-17 mpg.

[bvr775]

the sierra is a nicer truck than the silverodo. For some reason the quality and look is a little better with the GMC as far as interior goes. basically with GM trucks the separation goes like this, the employee drives the Chevy and the employer drives the GMC.

[T Man]

going to be putting the motor out of one of those into the dime this summer.

[imdawrlus]

i just got the truck a little while ago...its FAST! haha and its not even regestered yet, tomorow i HOPE...but anyways i bet i'd beat any one of you in a drag race hahaha...mods i'm thinking of are dual exhaust with an X pipe no cats, electric fans which i have on my S10 (swich em over) i'm gonna swap over my K&N air filter...the things incredible, but it needs some cosmetic work to be perfect in my eyes...

[Maximus]

.but anyways i bet i'd beat any one of you in a drag race hahaha..Now that gave me a real good laugh.A much much needed laugh.But congrats on the new purchase.

[imdawrlus]

haha i knew that would piss someone off

[Sparky2263]

ii bet i'd beat any one of you in a drag race

hehe, I'm with Max.

Congrats on the purchase. Now let's see a time slip ;).

[imdawrlus]

hahahahah....i'm realy worried about the gas mileage tho, but i guess you get big gains with small losses, also, its hard to get "intimate" with your girlfriend in a little S10 hahha...

[nomaboy]

i'll run you.

[imdawrlus]

alright now i just found out that the fuel lines are leaking between the filter and the tank...i dont know which line it is but there both rusted to tell so i'm gonna replace both of them...can anyone tell me the best way to get to them?? i was thinking of just taking off the bed, also where do i get the new lines and do i have to bend them myself or do i buy them alset?? THANKS

[imdawrlus]

alright i've fixed the leaking gas problem and now i have another one...this is something i posted on another forum:

89 gmc sierra 350 4wd 5 spd...i replaced the fuel filter, cap and rotor, plugs and plug wires, coolant temp sensor and oxygen sensor...checked timing and it is advanced a little bit with no ping at all...its had the same rough idle/surge since before the work...i'm thinking map sensor but for 50 bucks i only want to replace it if i'm posative thats what it is...does anybody have any other ideas of what i can check/replace?? THANKS!

anyone have any ideas?? thanks for any info...

[Sparky2263]

With rusted lines, I'm thinking some of it got in the injectors. Take a timing light, hook it to the coil wire and direct the light towards the injectors. See if the pattern is a nice cone shape or if it's dribbling and broken up.

[imdawrlus]

what if it is the injectors?? are they hard to rebuild? when i had the lines off i filled them up with seafoam before i put everything back together, it seemed to make the bigest difference i've seen yet so far...it idled smoother almost imeditely...the only time i have acess to a timing light is if i go and bother my neighbor but i get sick of doing it because i feel like i'm buging the hell out of him haha, is there another way to tell if the injectors are cloged??

[Sparky2263]

You don't rebuild the injectors, you buy them.

Sounding more and more like the injectors. If they're really bad you can see it without a timing light. The light helps because it freezes the motion allowing you to actually see the cone.

[imdawrlus]

about the injectors...i didnt get to check them with a timing light yet but i took a look at them and they seem to be spraying in a nice cone shape...the only thing that cought my eye was that the gas seemed to be "running", not quite dripping down the two bores of the throttle body...but anyways, tonight i was driving and all of a sudden my exhaust got REAL loud...so i was like wtf so i stoped at a gas station and got under and looked, at the front of the cat, theres a plug, almost like a freeze plug, that had blown out!! it had twisted sideways in the hole...i've thought about it, this must mean that the cat is plugged...i thought "maby it was just rusted" but if it was just rusted then it would have just leaked, not blown out and twisted sideways in the hole like a freeze plug...but anyways i'm going to just tap/twist it back into the hole, put some putty or something on it, go get an inspection sticker and then take the cat out and replace it with a plain pipe...what do u guys think?? is it a plugged cat for sure?? THANKS!!

[imdawrlus]

anybody?? am i right about the "freeze plug" theory?? can anyone tell me how i can patch this up for a couple days until i can get the cat out? also i just got about 12 miles per gallon just before the cat blew out, will a cloged cat kill mileage?? THANKS

[Sparky2263]

A clogged cat will kill mileage. Sure seems like that's what you have.

[imdawrlus]

alright i went to napa and got a freeze plug, tapped it in there and then i took some exhaust putty and puttyed it up real nice...that should hold until tomorow haha...when i looked in the hole i could see what looked like a sheet of metal with slits in it, it had little balls inbetween the slits, they kind of looked like bb's...i take it thoes are the pellets...needless to say thoes pellets are now scattered all over the road and in the frame and tranny crossmember of my truck haha...but anyways when i looked in, it actually looked pretty clean, i thought if it was "plugged" the spaces inbetween the pellets and slits would have been filled with carbon...am i correct on this?? by what i'm describing does it sound like it is/isnt pluged?? and what would make the "freeze plug" pop out like that??

[imdawrlus]

nothing?

[Sparky2263]

I haven't seen a pelletized converter since the 80's. Should've been a honeycomb style. That's why the lack of responses. We're all confused as to what you have.

One things for sure, it surely sounds F.U.B.A.R.

[imdawrlus]

well i went to get my truck inspected today and it failed emissions...i'm guessing that its because most of the pellets arent in the cat anymore...so what i'm going to do is take my old cat and muffletr from my 4.3 S10 and put it on my truck...this cat is a honeycomb cat in very good shape...will the S10 cat be sufficent to make it pass do u think?? on the printout it says:

HC grams per mile, reading 3.60, limit 3.20 FAIL

NOx grams per mile, reading 5.66, limit 3.50 FAIL

i also have my timing advanced a few degrees which is said to increase NOx...i'm going to see if it will pass with the new cat before i retard the timing...

[Sparky2263]

CO passed?

[imdawrlus]

this is exactly what it says...

CO grams per mile: reading 18.87, limit 80.00 PASS

i only have one more shot at this before i have to pay again, so if u had to take an edjucated guess, do u think it will pass with the new cat??

[Sparky2263]

I'd think it would, provided it was good and warmed up. I'd either back the timing down or remove the egr restrictor to guarantee an NOx pass. Otherwise I'd say NOx is gonna fail.

[imdawrlus]

no no no it dosent have an egr restrictor, the info in my signature is from my S10, a different truck...i've already checked out the egr on this truck, its nice and clean...i'm begining to think that i should back out the timing a little because thats the only part of the test that is wayy off the chat, well maby not WAY offf but still...do u think i'm good to go or should i back off the timing?

[Sparky2263]

NOx indicates higher than normal combustion temps. Most likely to least likely, advanced timing, inop/restricted egr, clogged exhaust ;), lean fuel mixture.

I'd set the timing at spec and make sure the egr is actually working.

[KODIAKWARRIOR]

hahahahah.... its hard to get "intimate" with your girlfriend in a little S10 hahha...

Been there done that!!!

[Sparky2263]

How'd you do on the re-test? Curious.

[imdawrlus]

hahaha sorry i didnt update...i put my old s10 cat in, took out the extra timing, and it passed with room to spare...it passed with flying colors...so i took out the cat and put in a peice of straight pipe and all is good for a couple years...now i'm having this problem...this is something i posed on chevytalk...


i got a check engine light so i pluged in the little pin jumper into the connector under the dash and it blinked once, pause then blinked twice, then it blinked 4 times, paused, and then blinked 4 times again...so i'm assuming it has a code 44 which i beleve is an 02 sensor code "lean mixture" i think...i just put a new 02 sensor in...what does this code "mean"?? what does it effect and how can it be fixed?? THANKS!!

are all the obd 1 codes the same thing?? thanks guys

[Sparky2263]

If the O2 sensor voltage stays low it will set a Code 44, lean mixture. If the sensor doesn't fix it you'll be looking for a vacuum leak, clogged injectors (unlikely on a TBI) etc.

[imdawrlus]

it still has the strange surging idle...sparky, you had mentioned the cloged injectors before, does this make it look even more like clogged injectors?? also, it seems unrealistic, but will a lean mixture make the gas mileage suck?? how could a vacuum leak cause it to run lean, wouldent the oxygen sensor compensate for the extra air??

[Sparky2263]

I keep thinking about your rusted fuel lines. That's one thing that can certainly clog a TBI injector ( or any injector for that matter).

Yes, a lean mixture due to screwed up spray patterns will decrease fuel mileage. Poor efficiency due to unburned fuel is one reason.

The oxygen sensor merely reports to the computer the a/f ratio (as it relates to perfect mixture). The computer then compensates rich or lean depending on what's needed. It has limits to amount of compensation though. When it gets close to those limits ('bout 20% either way) in trying to compensate, it sets a code and turns on the ck. engine lamp.

[imdawrlus]

what about fuel pressure? how do i check that...do i just buy a gauge that screws inline with the fuel line and read it? also i took a timing light like u saiid and tryed to look at the spray patterns but all i saw was what looked like a "cloudy mist" in the bores...i wasent dripping or anything...i couldent see a cone but it was more like a mist that they were spraying...both sides were like that...also are there any other sensors that would cause these symptoms like the map sensor? someone on another fourm mentioned a maf sensor but i dont think my truck has one...

[Sparky2263]

I was thinking you had already ck. fuel pressure. A definite must.

[imdawrlus]

well i went to autozone today and i could have bought a fuel pressure tester for 35 bucks...or i could have bought a fuel pressure regulator for 35 bucks, so i figured i'd just spend the money and *know* that the regulators good...anyways i took the injectors out and soaked the tips in a shallow dish of seafoam...i put it all back together and it seems to be WAY better...its barely noticable, but it kind of idles strange if your really paying attention, but if i didnt tell u about it, you wouldent notice it...so all is good...for now...

[imdawrlus]

another question, i have a k&n air filter that i took off my s10 and is now sitting in the garage...it has the chrome top and bottom so it will phisically fit on my 350...my question is this, the air filter is about 1.5-2 inches high by about 14 inches across, will this allow enough air flow?? i originaly got the air filter off of a V8 from the junkyard so i would guess that it would be fine...thoughts?

[imdawrlus]

anyone?

[Sparky2263]

I'd get the 3" tall filter. They make 'em all the way to 14" or so and you can definitely flow some air there. Just don't want it so small it clogs up quick.

[Maximus]

I don't know if you have red my thread about the new Fram Tough Guard filters but I would recommend trying one.They have the 14x3 in stock at wal-mart.They are less than 10 bucks and work really well.They are a cool looking yellow color too.The filter it's self is not regular paper.Its a different fabric but not cotton and not paper.They are also oil treated like a K&N and flow air just as good as a K&N.Just a thought for you.Also for not much more than what you paid for that fuel pressure regulator you could buy an adjustable one.Since you have a 350 you could greatly gain from it.Almost all GM TBI regulators are set at about the same pressure which after time seems to always be around 12-13 psi.A bump up to 14-15 psi will give you a gain in performance.If you have a gauge to you can keep adjusting it easier to the best performance.

[imdawrlus]

i did see your thread on the new fram filter...i was very interested in trying one out so when i was at autozone i looked but i couldent find anything...i'll probably go to wal mart tonight and see if they have them there...i'll post back on how it goes...

[Maximus]

Autozone and Advance don't offer a lot of Fram stuff because they don't make as much on them.They only offer them as their secondary product but good ol Wally world does.I don't like Fram's oil filters though.

[imdawrlus]

well i picked one up at wal mart tonight for under ten bucks and i'm planing on putting it in tomorow...since i put my old k&n in earlier today i notice that it takes a lot longer to start, it cranks longer...this may or may not be related but we'll find out soon enough...i'll keep you updated...

[imdawrlus]

well this is turning out to be a pretty long post...anyways i put the filter on but didnt get to reap the benefits because it had already started to run like **** earlier in the day...so i took off the air cleaner and everything and i took a look at the injectors...the drivers side was dripping fuel...i shut it off and then turned the key to the on position and watched it drip out...i read that i was supposed to put automatic trans fluid on the rubber o rings but i didnt think it was important so i didnt...so i tore it all apart and took out the rings and looked at them and they were all crushed and broken and cracked, they werent like that when i took it apart for the first time....so i took the injectors out, soaked the tips in sea foam overnight while i could begin my search for o rings and gaskets...nobody could sell me just the o rings and just the gasket, not even the dealer!! so i was forced to go to napa and but the whole kit for 45 bucks...it came with everything, even the fuel pressure regulator...i decided not to use the "new" fuel pressure regulator because the one i had on there was only a couple days old...so i put all the o rings on with atf and put the gasket on and tightened everything down, turned the key to the on position, no drips or leaks...i start it up and it idles rough...and its been idleing rough since i put everything back together...then tonight i get the check engine light, code 44 ofcorse...so i'm begining to think that it has nothing to do with the injectors...so anyways tonight when everything was completly dark i had the hood open with my head under there looking for arcing of the plugs and wires...i did see what looked like the white porcelin of the plugs was *barely* flashing at a constant pace...maby it was just light coming through the radiator and made to flash by the fan...so for the hell of it i pulled one of the wires off a plug that seemed to be barelly flashing and i didnt notice much of a difference at all in the running condition...what i did notice was that there was a loud arcing sound and flash coming from the coil area...so i shut off the truck, plug the wire back on and start it up and the arcing from the coil area stoped...it was still running rough but thats "normal" now...guys please throw me some ideas, i'm running out of them...any and all comments you guys might have are greatly appreciated...thanks..

[imdawrlus]

would a dead cylinder or *weak* spark make it run lean?? also what about the egr, if its stuck open will it cause it to run lean??

[nomaboy]

how old are your spark plugs? is your coil putting out enough voltage to fire the plug? what about plug wires? i would check the resistance on those. Cap and rotor? any burning marks or carbon tracking? yes EGR would make it run lean. just unplug the egr connector and see if that fixes the idle. here is how i found my bad spark plug courtesy of sparky and joe.....start engine and pull one spark plug wire at a time if pulling one wire makes a difference in the idle(for the worst) then move on to the next. if you find a cyl. that you can pull the wire off of and it idles the same then change the plug and wire and see if that fixes it. if pulling all the wires makes no difference then look for somthing that all the cyls have in comon like coil or cap and rotor.

[imdawrlus]

ok my spark plugs wires cap and rotor are not even a month old...the timing has been checked and advanced a little with no ping...i took off the egr and i tryed to suck on the vacuum line but the diaphram wont move so i'm guessing that the egr valve has a leak in the rubber diaphram somewhere...i might be taking off my map sensor and coil from my s10 and swaping them to see if it makes any difference...autozone.com says there the same part number so why not? also, since i put in a new fuel pressure regulator, would there be any reason for it to be the problem for the symptoms that my truck is having??? thanks!!

[imdawrlus]

ok well i went out in the drivway today in the blistering heat haha and i swaped out the map sensor and the coil from my S10...nothing...same thing, it stumbles...also today i got a code 33?? i havent looked it up yet becasue i just got home...but anyways, the big question is: is there any reason that the problem could still be the fuel pressure regulator?? it ran great for a couple days, then the o rings dripped..once it all got back together it stumbled like it did in the begining...

[nomaboy]

if the o-rings caused it to run like this before then they are probably causing this again. only if it is running the same crappy way though.

[imdawrlus]

at first, before i touched anything in the throttle body, it was running rough, then i decided to put in a new regulator...it ran great for a couple days then the o rings started to leak because i didnt put atf on them...now its running rough again after i fixed the o rings but it isnt leaking (i've checked like 10 times) and i got a code 33 which is map sensor i beleve...

[imdawrlus]

well i guess code 33 means map sensor even tho i swaped the map from my s10 in it and i didnt notice any difference...i probably just forgot to put something back together and thats why its saying map sensor...if not, what would cause the map sensor code?? also, is there any reason to beleve that its still the fuel pressure regulator??

[nomaboy]

????????

[Sparky2263]

Does the MAP sensor have vacuum at idle (manifold vacuum) or is it hooked to a ported source (vacuum when you open the throttle)?

It needs manifold vacuum.

[imdawrlus]

the vacuum line goes to the stock location (i think) on the back of the throttle body...i never got the code 44 until i replaced the o2 sensor, for ****s and giggles, should i go and get a new one to see if it fixes it?

[stumpy]

I get like 14 to 16 with mine, so im use to horrible gas milage, Im hoping to get a fullsize truck.

[imdawrlus]

alright well i need some more help because i'm running out of patience and ideas...i got a new 02 sensor, put it in, nothing...i put in a new set of plug wires, check to make sure none of the plugs were broken, still, nothing...i start it up and drive down the street and i get a code 44 pretty quick...its also idleing a lot rougher than usual...so i take a pair of pliers and pinch the rubber fuel return line, it raises the idle and it runs pretty smooth...fuel pressure regulator?? if i have this figured out right, theres 2 catagories that make it run lean, not enough fuel pressure to push out the correct amount of fuel, or the injectors not fireing enough...i'm hoping its sensor related...i've also been getting a map sensor code, can that make it run lean to the point of it idling rough?? what about the tps?? come on guys help me out i'm at the end of my rope...thanks...

[imdawrlus]

well i threw in a new tps and i think it solved the problem.

[imdawrlus]

my truck runs the balls now...theres still a very very slight miss only sometimes at idle, but other than that, its improved 100 percent...