Intake gaskets, turned Cam swap

[Jay-Sliver]

So boys..and girls..

This thread is basically to clear up some muddy water on my end, so I can continue my search for a cam and the goodies associated with it. The story is as follows...

About 2 years ago when changing my sparkplugs, I noted a slight white crusty buildup on the plug, which I would normally associate with burning coolant. A short while after I started having heating problems which I found out to be the heater core air-locking. I immediately suspected the head gaskets, until I found out that the factory intake gaskets on these are known to be poor.
Fast forward to today >> The intake is off and I have found some defects/ware/damage on the #4 Intake lobe, and have decided a cam swap is the appropriate thing to do.

My first question.. I'm this far already...do I pull the heads and slam a set of gaskets in there?


For the more technical questions..
2. If I run the CC266HR cam, is there a need for shorter push rods? Or can I run my OE ones?

3. I will be replacing my Hyd roller lifters...anything I need to pay special attention to when finding/buying a set?

4. Will I be able to retain my stock rockers and rocker studs?

5. I'm going to be replacing my timing set I think. Is the plastic timing cover reusable?

6. Will I be "SAFE" to run the cam WITHOUT a computer tune for a few months?




Thanks for all your help guys, appreciate it. Im still on the hunt for the Cam, lifters, springs, retainers.... I have a couple leads, but no solid for sure's yet.


Jay

[BigTruckDrivah]

My first question.. I'm this far already...do I pull the heads and slam a set of gaskets in there?


For the more technical questions..
2. If I run the CC266HR cam, is there a need for shorter push rods? Or can I run my OE ones?

3. I will be replacing my Hyd roller lifters...anything I need to pay special attention to when finding/buying a set?

4. Will I be able to retain my stock rockers and rocker studs?

5. I'm going to be replacing my timing set I think. Is the plastic timing cover reusable?

6. Will I be "SAFE" to run the cam WITHOUT a computer tune for a few months?




Thanks for all your help guys, appreciate it. Im still on the hunt for the Cam, lifters, springs, retainers.... I have a couple leads, but no solid for sure's yet.


Jay
Head gaskets probably wouldnt be a bad idea, its already tore down that far. Keep in mind you will need a set of head bolts with the gaskets, AND you will have to wrestle the exhaust mani's off.

Pushtubes should be re-usable since you are using a roller cam/lifters again. Some people may disagree, a pushtube length checker is cheap insurance if you care to measure.

Unsure on the lifters, I would think a stock replacement should be fine.

Shouldnt need new rockers unless you want to upgrade to roller, the studs should be fine too unless the threads are goofed. Chris said they are screw in so it would be an easy swap and cheap if you have to.

That timing cover should be fine if its not cracked. I would definately throw in a new chain and gears.


Without a tune, you probably wont see a huge difference with that cam. Im sure its safe, but may not be cost effective. MPG's.

[BigTruckDrivah]

On second thought, you knew you were burning coolant. Water does not compress and has been known to beat rod bearings out when a head gasket gives up. I wonder if maybe that caused your lifter to fail? Coolant in liquid form inside the comb chamber during startup wouldnt be hot enough to burn off, and it doesnt compress. Doesnt seem its been happening for a long time, maybe the intake gaskets were giving up enough coolant to sit on the piston over night. Which plugs had the most white crust on them? Just a thought, I could be wrong.

[Jay-Sliver]

ONLY the #6 plug...the same back corner where the intake gaskets are known to leak.

Jay

[Jongo88]

The cover says " DO NOT REUSE" right on it... lol

[BigTruckDrivah]

The cover says " DO NOT REUSE" right on it... lol

there ya go. I havnt worked on many of the newer 4.3's, more knowledge with the infamous and faster CPI!

[Jay-Sliver]

The cover says " DO NOT REUSE" right on it... lol

I suppose that answers my question then...lol

Are there any upgraded/dressup timing covers, or should I just throw a plastic one back ok.

[Jongo88]

I don't think so just get a stock one.. You can't really see it anyways...

[Jongo88]

Hey.. I have a stock cam and lifter set with timming chain and gears with cover around here some place...

[BigTruckDrivah]

Theres a waaay cheaper way out. After you figure in all the money spent to upgrade the 4.3, how much more power are you really gunna gain?

[Jay-Sliver]

John.....if ya got it, and it looks good, I'll take it. (if ya want to sell it) I have paypal or certified cheque or money order..throw me a price!

[Jongo88]

Let me go search for it.... It was new in the boxes from GM...A friend gave to me for payment for some work I did for him...

[BigTruckDrivah]

Let me go search for it.... It was new in the boxes from GM...A friend gave to me for payment for some work I did for him...

Wow, GM replacement parts. Better stuff, and probably better price than comp or autozone!!

[Jay-Sliver]

:D


Im in the garage right now..just finished pulling the rad....couldnt figure out the stupid "quick release" oil cooler fittings...so I unscrewed them...maybe their not quick release..who knows.....the haynes manual says "remove" without telling you how.

[Jay-Sliver]

it appears that the only way Im gonna get the cam out with the motor in is to move the condenser....that requires evacuation of the refrigerant....poo.

hssssssssssssssssssssssss.......


That noise you hear is a tire going down....yes..thats it..

[SleeperSS]

Slide the plastic collar back from the quick connect fittings and there is a spring clip. Use a pick to remove and pull the tube out. they like to take off so be prepared.

[Jongo88]

I have not found it yet.. I will look tomorrow... I know that stuff is here somewhere... Time to cook dinner now...

[Jongo88]

I found the cover..lol

[Jay-Sliver]

haha, no problem John..go do dinner.

Thanks for looking. Appreciate it.

Jay

[BigTruckDrivah]

Can you not unbolt it and prop it out of the way with the lines still hooked up just long enough to pull the cam?

[Jay-Sliver]

The one line is a hard line....it would be nice to do it that way, but being a hard line I dont wanna risk kinking it.

Oh, for the record...the water pump and fan assy CAN be removed as one....key is the rad has to be out, the idler pully off, and the tensioner assy off also. lol

Jay

[12sws27]

1. Do I pull the heads and slam a set of gaskets in there?

2. If I run the CC266HR cam, is there a need for shorter push rods? Or can I run my OE ones?

3. I will be replacing my Hyd roller lifters...anything I need to pay special attention to when finding/buying a set?

4. Will I be able to retain my stock rockers and rocker studs?

5. I'm going to be replacing my timing set I think. Is the plastic timing cover reusable?

6. Will I be "SAFE" to run the cam WITHOUT a computer tune for a few months?
My non professional opinion based solely on what I've read on the subject. <keep that in mind. :)

1. If I really thought it needed it I would. If not, I wouldn't bother. It doesn't seem leaking head gaskets are very common.

2. Most cam swaps threads I've read say you can reuse them. I say x2 to what Calvin said on this. Measure.

3. OEM replacements are fine.

4. Again, I've seen a few guys reuse their stock rockers and bolts/studs and didn't have a problem.

5. Ive heard some do. IDK why though, Dorman has new ones for like $30 USD.

6. More then likely you'll be fine. You might get codes though. Wait4mepermormance would be where I go if Shawn couldn't help you out. After a tune you might still need to get a case relearn done.

If I were you I'd search around for info on this subject on all the forums. There are many out there that have done it. They are just not on this forum.

Also, something to think about....I doubt you will get 20 hp out of the 266. I seen one thread where a guy barley got 30 hp out of a 270 that was tuned on a dyno.

Most gain I've seen from just a cam was about 40 hp and he had a custom grind that was closer to a 280.

[BigTruckDrivah]

300 for cam
60 for lifters
60 for springs
40 for retainers
100 for tune
560 total just for the performance stuff to make an extra 25HP. IMO, not worth it.

[Jongo88]

And the stock stuff for the price of shipping....

[BigTruckDrivah]

And the stock stuff for the price of shipping....

thats a smoking deal. Now your cam and lifters will crap out Jon. lol.

I think i got a CPI intake for that same price once at the same store. hehehe

[Jongo88]

Lol... I try to help iut my friends.....
I just have so much stuff sitting around here that I will never use...

[Jay-Sliver]

John, I cant let you give it to me...someone gave it to you as payment for something you did for them...I HAVE to pay you something for it...a couple cases of beer's worth, or dinner for you and your wifey..something.

Jay

[Jongo88]

Let me find it first.. lol

[Jongo88]

I have sooo much stuff around here... How about a set of wheels just like on your Jimmy????

[BigTruckDrivah]

Well else you got? I need a Holley 750 mech secondaries!

[Jongo88]

Well else you got? I need a Holley 750 mech secondaries!
Sorry

[Jay-Sliver]

So.. here's a few pics of whats going on.

First..the garage/shop..lol
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/IMG_1612.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/IMG_1603.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/IMG_1607.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/IMG_1586.jpg



Storage..
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/IMG_1606.jpg


Lookie there...Replace Upon Removal..lol
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/IMG_1614.jpg

^^Gotta bring my puller home to remove the balancer^^

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/IMG_1617.jpg

^^Once I get my condenser out of the way, im going to have to cut that brace out. I'll weld some mounting tabs on the cut out piece at work, then just drill holes and bolt it back into place.



Jay

[Jongo88]

Lookie there...Replace Upon Removal..lol
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/IMG_1614.jpg
LOL

[Jay-Sliver]

Oh...and my Supervisor..
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/IMG_1601.jpg

[12sws27]

So Jay, I take it you never heard from Ricky or He didn't want to sell his cam?

[Jay-Sliver]

He said that if he was gonna sell it Chris has first dibs on it cus thats who he bought it from, and that's who he told he would either use it or hang onto it till he did use it..
If I can get this Stocker stuff from John that would be my 1st preference, just to get it on the road and not have to worry about a tune and springs and retainers and having to swap springs and all that other BS..

If im gonna build a motor, I might as well build a 350 and find a cleaner S10 than I have now to put it in.

Jay

[12sws27]

He said that if he was gonna sell it Chris has first dibs on it cus thats who he bought it from, and that's who he told he would either use it or hang onto it till he did use it..
If I can get this Stocker stuff from John that would be my 1st preference, just to get it on the road and not have to worry about a tune and springs and retainers and having to swap springs and all that other BS..

If im gonna build a motor, I might as well build a 350 and find a cleaner S10 than I have now to put it in.

Jay

Seems like your best bet.

[Jongo88]

I still have some valve cover bolts too...

[12sws27]

I still have some valve cover bolts too...

Your extra VC bolts saved my ass about 2 years ago :D

[Jongo88]

lol... I have some very cleen covers too

[Jay-Sliver]

John....sounds like you need a block and you got a whole new motor :| LOL

[Jongo88]

I have 2 4.3's....

[BigTruckDrivah]

Save the performance cash for a V8!!!!! Jon has his own personal S10 j/y, didnt you know?

[Jay-Sliver]

Haha, i'm just now realizing that if any of us need anything, we should ask John first! LOL

[12sws27]

I need a ad244 alt..... 2 of them would be awesome! :D

[King_Ice_flash]

I took out my whole A/C system completely charged, just taking the the condensor out shouldn't be a problem. What valve spring compressors are you guys using to do the valve springs without taking the heads off?

[Jongo88]

Well Jay,
I'm feelin like an ass right about now...
I was just informed that I gave a bunch of stuff to my niece to sell and that was some of it...
So I don't have it any more....
I'm sorry about that....
I looked and looked and could not find it... I guess old age is settin in....

[Jay-Sliver]

I'm in tears right now :( lol. Alright John, thanks for lookin. Appreciate it.
Does your neice still have it and want to sell it?

Jay

[Jongo88]

She sold it on E~Gay with a bunch of other stuff....

[Jay-Sliver]

Alright. No problem. Thanks John.

[Jongo88]

Sorry Jay...:(

[12sws27]

I took out my whole A/C system completely charged, just taking the the condensor out shouldn't be a problem. What valve spring compressors are you guys using to do the valve springs without taking the heads off?

An air compressor?

[BigTruckDrivah]

I like this one. Its cheap and gets the job done. Squeeze it down tight, hit the top with your hand to loosen the locks, have a magnet handy to pull the locks. With heads installed, you will need a air chuck to thread into the spark plug hole to so that you can fill the cylinder with air keeping the valve from dropping. Or you can get the piston all the way up, so that it cant fall very far.

http://www.sz-wholesaler.com/userimg/277/307sw1/valve-spring-compressor-89.jpg

[BigTruckDrivah]

The lever types are almost impossible to use with heads on the engine and the engine in the truck. Just make sure to have a magnet to catch your locks, Ive had a few get close to falling in the oil return!!!!

[Jongo88]

The lever types are almost impossible to use with heads on the engine and the engine in the truck. Just make sure to have a magnet to catch your locks, Ive had a few get close to falling in the oil return!!!!
If you have a good one they work good... That was the only one that would work by the AC box and the booster,,,,

[BigTruckDrivah]

which one of those are a good one? Its just a peice of bent flat bar, I made one of those before I found the smaller twist type. In that spot really isnt room for anything!

[Jongo88]

Mine is made bt Snapon.. I don't think it really makes a differance though. It was the only way I could get to the back valves on my ole Blazer. The one you posted I used on all the other ones but it would not fit in the back. If you could get it on a valve there is no way to turn it...

[BigTruckDrivah]

I bet you were changing valve stem seals on the CPI.

[Jongo88]

LOL... You got it...

[firefighter]

I have only used the lever type. Bought mine off the Snap-on truck 20 years ago and it still works.... lol

[Jongo88]

LOL.. Thats about how old mine is too...

[Jay-Sliver]

So, rather than eat lunch, I spent my hour taking the timing cover off the front of the motor....what a PITA. This aint going to go back together none too nice. I thought the oil pan gasket was a gob of silicone and nearly pulled the bottom half moon part out with the cover. Anyone have some tips or tricks to install the new timing cover with the PAN ON? To pull the man on the 4by's you have to pull the motor.. Haynes manual suggests dropping the pan slightly at the front and applying silicone to the seperated area between the block and pan.

[Jongo88]

I have not done an aluminum pan yet.. But my ole balzer I just loosened it up but it didnot have the one peice gasket eather.

[Tink]

I dropped the front diff on my old blazer in order to drop the pan... I thought it was easier than pulling the motor.

[12sws27]

I'd do like haynes says and use good silicon gasket stuff.

[Jay-Sliver]

Well....for those of you who get the bright idea like I did, to do your own head gasket job...reconsider.. Its a PITA. Y-pipe nuts were seized on tighter than a nuns....(you get the point), exhaust manifold bolts wernt toooo bad to do, easier from the top if you have a low profile flex head ratchet like I do (Snap-on) Drivers side manifold WILL NOT COME OUT with the head on. It likely would if I was to take it out the bottom, but that meant having to drop the rest of the exhaust system, and I wasnt having any of that...
Anywho, heads are off...cylinders look good. Heads look good. Might send them out and have them cleaned and checked...or I may just pressure wash them myself at work and clean them up..dont know yet. I was going to take the timing set off and pull the cam, but I did not bring home my Torx set of sockets...my little 1/4 drive Bluepoint set only goes up to T25, I think the timing chain tensioner/slide is a T27. It will have to wait till tomorrow night.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/SouthHuron-20110918-00154.jpg


Saturday at work (after work) I cleaned up my TB and de-thingermajiggy'd it.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/Bluewater-20110917-00148.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/Bluewater-20110917-00149.jpg

[Jay-Sliver]

Oh, new NAPA timing cover....if you ever replace a timing cover, get the NAPA one....its twice as thick and comes with a front crank seal.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/SouthHuron-20110915-00147.jpg

[Bone Crusher]

Shoot...that just makes me tired, frustrated and want to cuss just reading and looking at the pics :p

[Mikz86TA]

That cam you can just get the same stock replacement lifters and same pushrods. The rockers and all can be retained. Id go ahead and do the head gaskets. Like said, need new head bolts. You can use the older steel or chromed steel rocker covers. Or Aussie Speed or Edelbrocks. As long as they are 4.3/centerbolt. If u do 1.5, 1.52 or 1.6 rocker roller conversion later, you will have to do the rocker covers. I think some reuse the timing cover but GM says not to. I think since its plastic and rick fracturing upon removal. Thats my guess why

[Jay-Sliver]

Well...I think I have gathered all my hard parts to do the Cam swap. My LS Valve Springs FINALLY came in the mail the other day.


LS SPRINGS
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/Bluewater-20111027-00005.jpg


787 RETAINERS
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/Bluewater-20111027-00004.jpg


FEL-PRO HEAD BOLT KITS (1 pictured)
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/SouthHuron-20111027-00019.jpg



NAPA TIMING COVER AND FRONT SEAL
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/SouthHuron-20110915-00147-1.jpg



EBAY DISTRIBUTOR
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/SouthHuron-20110811-00017-1.jpg


COMPCAMS 266HR CAM
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/SouthHuron-20111027-00020.jpg


VICTOR REINZ GASKET KITS
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/SouthHuron-20111027-00022.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/SouthHuron-20111027-00021.jpg

[Jay-Sliver]

Here's the kicker...

I pulled 2 valves out of the passenger side head today at work....heads need to be sent out and have a valve job done...another expenditure I didn't count on.. The Exhaust valve seat has some weird white deposits on it, and has me wondering WTF.. Its prolly better I send the heads out and have them checked/valve job done, than for me to simply lap the valves and inspect the seats after lapping.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/Bluewater-20111027-00016.jpg


Jay

[XTREME80]

Unleaded gas equals what you see....

[Jay-Sliver]

Poo.....you think im gonna be able to get away with lapping them? I should lap one and take a pic...post it up, see what ya think.

Jay

[Jongo88]

I think it would be best to get a valve job with all them pits in them...

[Jay-Sliver]

Valve job it is. I've gone this far....

[firefighter]

Damn this thing is like a loose thread.... you start pulling on the SOB and it won't stop coming at you. If this keeps up you will be building the short block too.

[Jay-Sliver]

Damn this thing is like a loose thread.... you start pulling on the SOB and it won't stop coming at you. If this keeps up you will be building the short block too.

Dont EVEN start! lol. If I could sneak a 5.3 in there for cheap right now, i'd do it. By cheap I mean if the motor landed in my lap at this very second.

Jay

[BigTruckDrivah]

Unleaded gas equals what you see....

This




Where in the hell are you getting leaded gas? I wouldnt be scared of it. The inside of my turndowns turn chalk white after a few passes, but I run 110 VP leaded. Id just do a valve job to be on the safe side. Whats another 150 bucks?

[BigTruckDrivah]

On second thought, will coolant turn that color when its burnt? I know it smokes white.

Do you use fuel additives? Could also be a extreme lean condition. My buddies plugs looked this way in his 302 after his efi encountered a fault and leaned out.

[Jay-Sliver]

Coolant will typically leave white deposits on the plug.

[Jay-Sliver]

Well, GM Delaership Wants $1300 PER HEAD ($1013 per head my cost) for heads, No Reman heads to be found. GMPP Book that the parts jockey had shows no performance heads available in that department.

Machine shop will look at my heads tomorrow if I bring them up to him, and let me know what the damage is going to be. He said typically for a cleanup and Valve Job it'll run about $100 a head, but if he has to get into decking and guides I could be up around $300 per head.. With that being said, he said the VORTEC heads are usually pretty good for being straight and square, and dont usually require guide work.


Jay

[firefighter]

The Vortec heads are borderline a performance head out of the box. Little needs to be done to get them going. How big a need is it to get this truck running? If you have some time and are putting money into the heads you might as well do some gasket matching and then have the valve job done. Look for Chris's (bonecrusher) thread on the matter. I have that pair of heads and am in the process of parts gathering to do a short block to compliment them. He did a good job and the thread has a fair amount of info.

[firefighter]

I'm sure you've read this but..... http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16004

[BigTruckDrivah]

That sucks. I can get those heads exchange for totally rebuilt for like 80-90 bucks a head.
http://www.citymotorsupply.com/cylinderheads.pdf
I've used these guys alot, and my father in law has an account with them for his major parts. I replaced the heads on my old cpi with a set from them and had no problems. Same for my old Z71, and my dads old 3500 work truck. Im sure the cost of shipping would be stupid though.

Im sure with a baby on the way he isnt looking to pop wheelies with his blazer, lol.

[firefighter]

Hell when my kid was young he laughed when I floored it and cried when I hit the brakes. He still gets mad at red lights. LoL

[Jongo88]

Hell when my kid was young he laughed when I floored it and cried when I hit the brakes. He still gets mad at red lights. LoL
LOL!!!!!

[Jay-Sliver]

Just picked up my heads from work on my way by, headed for the Machine Shop in Goderich Ontario, where the twister went through a few months back.

Jay

[spideyjected]

Jeez Jay, it's one thing after the next!

[Jay-Sliver]

I guess that's the way life goes.

And here I thought that mobile 1 synthetic 5w30 was good stuff and sapposed to protect against this kinda crap. The fuel is no help either, their coked right up...

[Jay-Sliver]

Just pulling into Goderich now.

[Jay-Sliver]

Well, the NAPA store has my heads. They are gonna tare them down, hot tank everything over night, magnaflux/inspect everything. They are then gonna give me a shout and let me know if they need any major work above and beyond a 3 angle. Fingers crossed that everything checks out and I'm only in the hole a hundred and a quarter a head.

[firefighter]

Good Luck man....

[Jongo88]

Man I miss the days when you could get them done for 100 bucks for both heads.. lol

[Jay-Sliver]

Man I miss the days when you could get them done for 100 bucks for both heads.. lol

Meee tooo....and Im not even old enough to remember those days...LOL

[Jongo88]

lol

[Worx]

Hey hey hey !!!

[Jay-Sliver]

Heads check out good. Guides are in great shape, surface is flat and true. They did a 3 angle on the seats, and a 2 angle on the valves. Gonna install new seals, and use the LS springs ans 787 Retainers when reassembling. Guy said they look to be in great shape for having 240,000Kms on them. (149,000 Miles)

Should see them back to me at work tomorrow sometime.


Jay

[Worx]

Get R Done

[firefighter]

G2G.... start burning gas man.

[Jay-Sliver]

I GOT HEADs!



Yep..they came in today...

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/SouthHuron-20111102-00034.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/SouthHuron-20111102-00035.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/SouthHuron-20111102-00036.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/SouthHuron-20111102-00037.jpg




Bolt them up this weekend maybe?


Jay

[firefighter]

I'll be the first to ask.... Is it done yet? lol

['94 Big Blaze]

Damn jay you aint done yet, canadian's supposed to work fast :p

[Jay-Sliver]

Yea...I wrench all day at work..last think I wanna come home and do is wrench some more..and fire calls are keeping me busy...been out a couple times this week....we were dead for almost a month, went without a call, and then went out twice in 2 days...they come and go..

Might take a stab at it sunday sometime..at least clean up the block and get the heads on.. Still gotta get the old cam out yet too.. Pics of that when it comes out.

Jay

[Jay-Sliver]

Progress Report...


Its OUT! The cam is that is... I'm currently loading the pics to photobucket now... Pic's will be up in a few...

For the record, the cam WILL NOT come out with the condenser in place. If it (the condenser) was one more inch forward it would be no problem...pics will show...

[12sws27]

Progress Report...


Its OUT! The cam is that is... I'm currently loading the pics to photobucket now... Pic's will be up in a few...

For the record, the cam WILL NOT come out with the condenser in place. If it (the condenser) was one more inch forward it would be no problem...pics will show...

That's good to know.

Looking forward to the pics.

Did you try to tilt the engine back any to try to get space to remove the cam?

[Jay-Sliver]

Photo's....

Cam won't come out. Condenser is in the way... You can see the very last cam main bearing just starting to exit the block, as the nose of the cam touches the condenser.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1822.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1823.jpg





Condenser Unbolted, and mover out of the way, to pull the cam all the way out. Not necessary to undo the refrigerant lines for the condenser, just unbolt it.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1825.jpg







Out....here's the damage. Maybe this is semi-normal and I'm a little paranoid...but in the few dozen diesel engines I have done at work, this is the first time I have seen material flaking like this..

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1838.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1843.jpg


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1836.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1835.jpg








What are your thoughts?


Jay

[firefighter]

Damn.... I'm glad I'm planning on a total engine removal.

[firefighter]

How many miles again? What kind of oil do you run?

[Jay-Sliver]

238,000Kms...so 147,886 Miles..

Dealership did the first 60,000Kms worth of oil changes (37,282 Miles)
(because basic GM warranty up here is 60,000Kms or 5 years..what ever comes first)

From 60,000 up to its current 238,000Kms I have used GM Filters (and the odd Quakerstate or Fram filter) and Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 5w30......

When I bought the truck (brand new), I complained of a lifter tick...tech and service manager claimed it to be "normal valve train noise" I argued, and got no where. Now its sitting in the garage with an obvious valve train issue...


Jay


EDIT: Oil changes were every 5000Kms (3000Mi) regardless of when the dealer did them, or I do them...I'm a stickler on the 5000kms (3000mi) intervals.

[firefighter]

Hmmmm.... I've never been a fan of the oil used at the dealer. Waaaay back when I worked at one most of us guys who had "performance" vehicles wouldn't even think of putting that stuff in our cars. IIRC it might have even been that recycled crap. I wonder if that did the lobe damage. The Mobile One sure didn't. What's the corresponding lifter look like?

I hope/expect my engine to look good when I open it up, she's had nothing but Valvoline Synpower since the factory crank case of oil.

[Jay-Sliver]

Im just gonna run and have a shower now before the gf gets home, but I'll shoot some pics of the lifters when im done.. Honestly, I didnt look at them too closely, but they dont look all that bad. Gonna throw a new set in it anyways.

Jay

[firefighter]

Cool but make sure you post them up when you can. I'm allways interested in how a motor looks on teardown. Did you ever notice shavings in your oil? Sometimes I want to buy an oil filter cutter just to monitor stuff like that.

[XTREME80]

It was probably a flawed cam from the get go.... I have seen many do this at the stealership. Most caused from an final finish and chitty metal casting and treat process.

[Jay-Sliver]

Will GM, or HAS GM done anything for the poor people who complain about it and get no where? I have a service record here somewhere in my files, dictating that I have indeed complained about a valve train noise.

Jay

[XTREME80]

You may try to raise hell but i have had no luck with getting any where. I had a similar problem back in 98 i bought a brand new 98 dime 4 cly truck. Well on any random morning the release bearing would squeal. Well after many of many trip to the stealership i hit 37,000 mile just out of warranty and the slave/release took a crap....

[Jay-Sliver]

Here's the lifter pics... The camera kinda makes them look worse than they actually are. They are pretty normal looking if you ask me...

Pics are in cylinder # order, 1 2 3 4 5 6... so, looking down on the block from the front, right front, left front, right center, left center, right rear, left rear.

1.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/Cylinder1.jpg

2.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/Cylinder2.jpg

3.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/Cylinder3.jpg


4.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/Cylinder4.jpg


5.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/Cylinder5.jpg


6.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/Cylinder6.jpg


All
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/AllLifters.jpg

[Jongo88]

The camera brings up stuff you don't see...

[spideyjected]

I spent the first year and a half with my 2000 chasing down a clanging noise in the drive train "in overdrive". It spent more time at the dealer than with me. After that they put a "silencer" on the drive shaft. So the noise was still there just quiet. Hense when the lease and warranty were up, I sent it packing.

[firefighter]

In pic one the lifter on the right looks like the lobe on the cam. There are a couple of others that look like they were planning on going that way. IDK if that would make a tapping noise. I'm pretty sure that cam was getting ready to make a mess in that engine.

[Jay-Sliver]

Yea...... Anyone need a cam for a regrind? I'm sure it could be turned into a decent lump stick.

[Jay-Sliver]

Well, made some progress today. The CompCams 266HR Camshaft has found its new home. It's in place and the cam retainer plate installed and torqued to spec. I do not have a 3 jaw puller at home, so I was not able to get the timing set installed, so instead I put the heads on and cinched them down. The lifters soaked in oil over night, so i dropped them in also. Started on the valve train, got the 4 corners of rockers installed just to hold down the rocker girdle.


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1903.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1900.jpg


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1911.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1917.jpg



Slowly but surely, its coming together.



Jay

[Bone Crusher]

Sweet....good to see some progress

[12sws27]

Hurry because I want some butt dyno reports!

[Bootlegger's Deluxe]

those look like good heads ... is good head hard to find?

glad to see progress, even though i egged u on facebook not to go out to the cold ...

[12sws27]

those look like good heads ... is good head hard to find?

glad to see progress, even though i egged u on facebook not to go out to the cold ...

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/12sws27/stuff/C6QJPRHW4QF6KFDP7XJNW24TNDI4YNF2.jpg

[1-1-SIX]

anyone ever put a set of sbc timing gears on one of our balance shaft 4.3s?

dumb question? possibly :)

[Jay-Sliver]

anyone ever put a set of sbc timing gears on one of our balance shaft 4.3s?

dumb question? possibly :)

No can do. Wont fit behind the plastic timing cover. Its a whole different beast behind that black plastic cover.

[1-1-SIX]

haha...good to know. thanks. are you keeping the balance shaft?

good thread for thorough info man, i've been following.

[Jay-Sliver]

Im still tossing up the idea of "forgetting to install" the gear on the balance shaft. You have to leave the one on behind the cam gear, but the one ON the balance shaft you can remove.

I need to keep this a daily driver in the future, especially with a child on the way in 2 months exactly. If I was going to auto-x it maybe I might delete it, but I don't plan on racing it competitively...its 4 wheel drive..who races a 4 wheel drive? lol.

Jay

[1-1-SIX]

yea, completely understand. one day if/when i get that deep into mine, i'll probably consider it to "lighten the load"...i'm used to my old built 4.3...that thing shook like crazy. i miss my previous-previous first gen.

speaking of racing a 4x4, you should start a snow (or dirt) auto-x scene up there...lol

[Jay-Sliver]

lol, it would be snow this time of the year...I just finished sayin in the VIP thread that we only have an inch of the white stuff on the ground right now..for us, thats just a skiff or dusting of snow..

Jay

[Jay-Sliver]

Well, because I didn't want to pull the engine and drop the oil pan in order to install the plastic composite front timing cover, I modified it. I used my small buffer/grinder with a cookie disc and took the last inch and a quarter or so of lip off the bottom inner edge. After modifying, and adding a good bit of RTV Gasket Maker to the bottom lip, it slipped/rolled right into place and bolted up. I also added a small amount of RTV Gasket Maker to the grey seal that already exists on the new timing cover for added security...just enough to see it squish out so I knew I had good contact.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1961.jpg


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1960.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1955.jpg

[Jongo88]

copy cat.. lol

[Jay-Sliver]

lol, I was reading on "the other forum" and another guy took and ground down the whole inner lip :S I was a little leary on that move.

[Jay-Sliver]

So, here is how it sits right now..

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1968.jpg




The Harmonic balancer is only on there an inch if that, I was not able to get it slid on enough to get the balancer bolt started, to draw it on. So, I have to buy a longer bolt from a fastener store like Comco or Fastenal, JUST so I can pull it on another inch, till the factory bolt can grab threads.

Also

Can I get someone to give me a hand...

On the back of the drivers head, is a fuel line bracket and a couple wires...anyone have a flash light, a camera, and a mirror? I need to know what holes each of the items goes into. Same with the passenger head, there is a ground strap, and I dont remember where it straps to. For some reason I think its the intake but I don't remember.





Jay

[Jay-Sliver]

Another thing I have done is drilled a small 1/8th inch hole in the thermostat. This will aid in bleeding the cooling system. Most thermostats come with what is known as a jiggler valve in them, which is a hole drilled in the thermostat, with a loosely fit rivit that "jiggles" when you shake it. It does the same thing that me drilling the hole will do.


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1974.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/2005 GMC Jimmy/IMG_1973.jpg






Jay

[Worx]

Done yet ??

[Jongo88]

Jay just get you some thread all.. It's better than a bolt. The longer bolt can strip the threads in the crank.

[Jay-Sliver]

I guess that would work too....a couple washers and some grease for luberication.. I'll have to see if canadian tire has some in fine thread...its a 7/16 fine thread..


Jay

[Jongo88]

That's basically the way the installer tool works...

[firefighter]

That is good advice jongo just gave you. Follow it. I was going to suggest something similar.

[droopy89]

You still aint done!!!@@!??!?@?

[Worx]

Must be the cold making him move slower ??? LOL

[Jay-Sliver]

lol, I'm still not done... My computer is ordered from Wait4meperformance. I need to get a chunk of threaded rod, or "all thread" for you southerners, to install my harmonic dampener. Other than that, the hard stuff is done. Just a matter of installing the front accessory drive, drop the rad in, hook up a few hoses.. Oh, i'm waiting on my ACDelco #12 Rapidfire sparkplugs from ebay also.

I bought Annie that White 97 Grandprix GT 4 door a while back, so she has been driving it, and I am currently driving the car that she WAS driving, a Green 98 Grandprix GT 2 door.. gets good mileage. It still has summer tires on it, but our winter has been very oddly mild this year, so.. I'm not in too much of a rush to get the Jimmy done, although it would be nice to free up the garage space.

Jay

[Worx]

Get er Done !!

[droopy89]

GET TO IT SON!

[Jay-Sliver]

Jimmy is fully assembled. Im going to re-connect my battery, pull the fuel pump fues, and bump it over a few times to make sure all is well. After bumping it over a couple times, im gonna hold it in start for 8-10 seconds at a time, with 20-30 second breaks to prime the oiling system. Once I see pressure on my gauge, plug the pump fuse back in, prime up the fuel system, and fire it on the stock computer. Coolant is in, oil change done, and its holding both...lol.

The camera will be rolling for the first start.


Jay

[rentedmule]

Sweet! I hope it all goes as planned

[Jay-Sliver]

I sure the hell hope so...I just had to put air in the tires before I dropped it off the jack stands...I guess my right front dont hold air none to well. LOL.


Jay

[12sws27]

I came here for vid......still no vid....I haz sad.

[Jay-Sliver]

lol, im just jumping in to prime the oiling system....give me a few. gonna take a while to upload the vid too..

[Mikz86TA]

Waiting.................................Impatently Waiting..............................Pacing Around Now........................Biting my Nails Now..................................Had to poop now back............................Waiting........... .............lol

[Bone Crusher]

WTH 50 mins

[Jay-Sliver]

LOL, sorry. It runs. Photobucket isn't letting me upload anything tho...don't know why.
There are a few noises that popped up after it ran for a few minutes, but I think its the alternator. Gonna pull the belt and re-fire it to eliminate the accessory drive system. \

Had to stop working on it though. We need to go get groceries and stuff. I leave 5AM monday morning for 3 days of training. Hopefully the computer shows up mon/tues/wed while i'm away.

[12sws27]

Upload it to Youtube....


or....

I'll send you my email addy in a pm so you can email that vid to me. I will then post the vid here in this thread with out fail. Thus demonstrating my flawless vid posting ability.

[Hammer Head]

Cool!

[Jay-Sliver]

The vid is being uploaded to youtube as we speak. Photobucket still wont take it...don't know what's going on there.

[trusconi]

well were waiting.

[Mikz86TA]

Streetfire or Youtube .Yea PB sux at videos anyways

[Jay-Sliver]

Youtube. Titled Comp Cams 266HR First Start. I got an email saying the vid was uploaded, but I can't find it on my blackberry.

[rentedmule]

Not there yet :(

[Bone Crusher]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dl-5IVH3ulk

[Bone Crusher]

Where's the donuts?

[Worx]

Running yet ???

[Bone Crusher]

link is here


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dl-5IVH3ulk

[Mikz86TA]

Saw video. Horn still works..thank God! I was worried about the horn :)

[Mikz86TA]

Whats it idling at? RPMs

[firefighter]

I about fell over when he said "hose" (attatched to exhaust) all I could think of was "Strange Brew"... Ya hoser... lol

[firefighter]

It's ALIVE! Good Job.

[1-1-SIX]

sweet man. it coughed to life with a nice puff of smoke.

[Worx]

I am trying to figure out why Canadians get in thru the passenger side ??? LOL

[1-1-SIX]

haha...now that you mentioned that, i realized he did. i must have not taken extra notice to it...maybe it's a secret habit of mine. i used to have to climb in through the back of my blazer when both my doors were broken. talk about embarassing.

[Bone Crusher]

Im pretty pissed I didn't get to hear him say "eh"!

[Jay-Sliver]

I am trying to figure out why Canadians get in thru the passenger side ??? LOL

LOL, The truck is tight to the wall on the drivers side, and my pedal bike is right up on the truck on that side too.

Jay

[Jay-Sliver]

lol, I'll get another one once I get it all finalized I'll make another vid and try to get a few "eh"s in there.

[Worx]

Im pretty pissed I didn't get to hear him say "eh"!

Or see LARGE amounts of empty Molson beer cans. LOL

[12sws27]

Im pretty pissed I didn't get to hear him say "eh"! I did say something like "the box fan is to blow the exhaust oot."

"Hey Jay, what the box fan all aboot eh?" "Oh, it's to blow the exhaust oot....."

[Danzcameo]

Its Alive- Good job Jay, bet you'll be happy have your 4x4 Jimmy back especially in january!

[Bootlegger's Deluxe]

WTH Jay? you fired it up and didnt call me??

I feel left out...

Glad it runs ...

[Worx]

Its Alive- Good job Jay, bet you'll be happy have your 4x4 Jimmy back especially in january!

Dont need no 4X4 in Fla just a good sunroof or convertable. LOL

It was like 85 everyday last week.

[1-1-SIX]

i'll trade you some tornadoes for your 85 degree days...

[Danzcameo]

Dont need no 4X4 in Fla just a good sunroof or convertable. LOL

It was like 85 everyday last week.
Where? Fla you say eh. :)

[Worx]

Right now its freekin 84 & very low humidity !!!

I cant believe its the end of January & its this warm,thats why Fla is the chizzle.....most of the time. LOL

My phone has already started ringing for jetski work.

[Worx]

You drive it yet ???

[Jay-Sliver]

No sir, no drives yet. I just got back from Service training school for KUBOTA later last night. Been at work all day today. Still waiting on my Computer from W4M.

Jay

[neo71665]

Insider pics released

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/8/84/0605kc_02_1982_chevy_s10_frame_z.jpg

[rentedmule]

^ it looks faster!

[Mikz86TA]

Def got some weight reduction going on

[Jay-Sliver]

Well, I have a noise in the engine....its weird...I THINK its in the timing cover...I think something is rubbing.. no idea. I have good steady oil pressure.
Gonna bring my stethiscope home tomorrow and touch it to a few things. Hard to pinpoint there its coming from with the naked ear.

It sounds like a plastic rubbing noise, and rotational, its not constant. Sounds almost like a brake rubbing, when you get a ridge of rust built up and it rubs every time it comes around..

Piss me off.....every time I turn around with this thing it gives me issues. Bout fed up with it..

[Jay-Sliver]

Well, may have found my noise at lunch. The Dorman front timing cover says it fits 95 to 03 4.3L engines, and replaced 4 GM part numbers. The GM part number for the timing cover on my 05 is not the same part number that the dorman part replaces, nor does it sub back to one of those 4 numbers. Gonna have to pull the timing cover and check for rub marks.Jay

[droopy89]

Damn GM and their part numbers!!!

[Mikz86TA]

Thats odd there would be a difference. IIRC those coves are meant to be replaced for a reason tho I dont recall what reason. Was there a thrust washer/bearing behind it?

[Jay-Sliver]

Welp. It's been confirmed. I indeed have the Incorrect timing cover. 03 is not the same as 05 when it comes to the timing arrangement. Gears and Chain are all the same, but the 05 motor runs a timing chain tensioner block on the passenger side of the chain, to keep tension on the chain at all times. 03 and UNDER motors are not equipped with this timing chain tensioner, therefor, the 96 up timing cover does not have the provisions for the 05 up engine's tensioner.

GM's price, for a timing cover for an 05 up motor, $100. So...guess she's tare down time again....

Wont be able to save much coolant...if you recall earlier on in the build, my rad does not have a coolant drain cock in it...stupid idea..I'll have to pull the lower rad hose to drain the coolant..


Do your homework, is all I have to say..lol




Jay

[Mikz86TA]

Why no draincock?

Just front cover/wp/belts need to come off right...and balancer

[Jay-Sliver]

Why no draincock?

Just front cover/wp/belts need to come off right...and balancer

Canadian Model only....who knows..they cheaped out. The provisions are there in the rad for a drain valve, its just not drilled and tapped for a drain screw. Got a spare drain valve? I'll drill it and tap it. I guess they figured we dont change our coolant up here in Canada.


Check this out...was googling for pics of a timing set ON engines...found this.

Engine - Engine Rattle at 1,800-2,200 RPM's
Bulletin No.: 03-06-01-024C

Date: August 30, 2006

TECHNICAL
Subject:
Rattle Noise In Engine (Install Timing Tensioner Kit)

Models:
1996-2003 Chevrolet Astro, Blazer, Express, S-10, Silverado (http://blazerforum.com/forum/#) and P Models
1996-2003 GMC Jimmy, Safari, Savana, Sierra (http://blazerforum.com/forum/#), Sonoma
1996-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada

with 4.3L V6 Engine (VINs W, X - RPOs L35, LF6, LU3)

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to add additional models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-06-01-024B (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).

Condition

Some customers may comment on a rattle-type noise coming from the engine at approximately 1800 to 2200 RPMs.

Cause

The spark, rattle-type noise may be caused by torsional vibration of the balance shaft.

Correction

If detonation noise is present, perform detonation/spark knock diagnostics first.

Install a new tensioner assembly kit using the procedure below.

Remove the engine front cover. Refer to SI for engine front cover removal procedure.

Remove the crankshaft sensor reluctor ring and line up the timing marks on the crank gear and cam shaft gear.

Remove the camshaft gear and chain. For model years 1996-1998, remove the crankshaft sprocket using J 5825-A.

Pull the shipping pin and discard. Remove the nylon timing chain tensioner blade from the timing chain tensioner bracket.

Position the bracket on the front of the engine. The upper two attaching holes of the bracket will line up with the center two engine front cover bolt holes. The lower bracket holes will line up with the engine front cover alignment holes.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/2000%20Bravada/th_03-06-01-024C_1of4.gif (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/2000%20Bravada/03-06-01-024C_1of4.gif)http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/2000%20Bravada/th_03-06-01-024C_2of4.gif (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/2000%20Bravada/03-06-01-024C_2of4.gif)

Use a hammer and the J 46165 Pin Driver to install the dowel pins through the two lower holes in the bracket and into the engine block. Make sure that the bracket is held firmly in place before proceeding.

For model years 1996-1998, install a roller-type timing chain set. Install the crankshaft sprocket using the J 5590 Crankshaft Gear Installer. Install the timing chain around the crankshaft sprocket and position the timing chain to the driver's side of the engine.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/2000%20Bravada/th_03-06-01-024C_3of4.gif (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/2000%20Bravada/03-06-01-024C_3of4.gif)

Install the nylon timing chain tensioner guide onto the timing chain tensioner bracket pin and position the top of the guide under the tab at the top of the bracket.

Install the camshaft sprocket into the chain and then to the camshaft. Install the bolts finger-tight. Make sure the timing marks are aligned, then tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt.

Tighten

Tighten the bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/2000%20Bravada/th_03-06-01-024C_4of4.gif (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/2000%20Bravada/03-06-01-024C_4of4.gif)

Install the crankshaft reluctor ring.

Install the engine front cover and place a washer under the two center cover bolts that extend through the tensioner bracket. These washers are required to maintain the proper crush on the engine front cover seal.

Tighten

Tighten the bolts to 12 N.m (106 lb in).

PARTS:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a187/swartlkk/2000%20Bravada/03-06-01-024C_parts.gif

[Jay-Sliver]

Yes, only have to pull the belt, upper fan shroud, fan, water pump. Front cover will come off after that.

Jay

[Jongo88]

Learn something new everyday...

[Jay-Sliver]

That you do....

And that TSB, is for a tensioner add-on for the 03 and under engines, that have a rattle at a designated RPM... they are not equipped with a tensioner, but a tensioner can be adapted to cure this rattle caused by the balance shaft. Didnt Lonnie complain of a mysterious rattle/tick just above idle?

[firefighter]

Ain't that some chit.... what a PITA.

[firefighter]

Well I'm probably going to add that tensioner when I do my motor.

[Mikz86TA]

My truck has alot of ticks...lol
exh leak tick....
injector assembly tick or something up there since day1...
clutch engage noise in neutral whiring sound that the nv3500's posses....
mystery tick recently I suspect clutch area and non consistent or its in the motor rear main but I dt think so.....
the clock..haha j/k

[Mikz86TA]

Not cheap part!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-89017257/

http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/gm-tensioner-89017257.html (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-89017257/)

[firefighter]

I know mike but when you are balls deep in a rebuild the extra $50 to do the upgrade isn't as big of a deal... I'm btw I'm going to head over to the machine shop next week to get them to check out the heads and port the manifold.

[Bone Crusher]

Why do you need the heads check...them b!tches were put together at a machine shop

[firefighter]

Gotta make sure the guides will clear my cam. I'm useing a 270. Plus I might as well make sure that the manifold and the heads are on the same page. Can't hurt and it reduces the chances of surprises.

[Mikz86TA]

Well yes a $50 part no biggie but its
The TSB noise issue at 1800-3600rpm Id deal with. Truck dt idle at tht speed and I cant hear it driving over the exhaust.lol If it caused a knock sensor error...well thats an issue and def need to be addressed. But merely as a noise I may or may not hear, Id pass.
In Jays case tho Id figure out the whole cover thing. If his truck already has the tensioner and he simply has the wrong cover for it, Id get the right cover.
But as far as an older truck with no issue and the right cover..Id pass myself.

Crap..if its the balance shaft causing the issue, Id disble it during the cam swap. How much extra vibration would it be as long as rubber motor mounts are still used? My 4.3 manual vibrates with the stock stuff as is...little more wont hurt..haha

[12sws27]

That you do....

And that TSB, is for a tensioner add-on for the 03 and under engines, that have a rattle at a designated RPM... they are not equipped with a tensioner, but a tensioner can be adapted to cure this rattle caused by the balance shaft. Didnt Lonnie complain of a mysterious rattle/tick just above idle?

Just FYI, the knock sensor will pick up that rattle and pull timing because it thinks it knock. I had that rattle on my '00 Blazer from the day I bought it to the day someone decided they liked it more then me and drove off with it.

I've also seen it on another 4.3 or 2 I've data logged. So it is more then an annoyance since it causes false knock. When the pcm senses knock, it will pull more timing then needed and that causes power loss.

Cheapest/best way to fix that rattle IMO, is to just remove/disable the balance shaft.

[firefighter]

Just my opinion... but the last thing I'm going to do is pull that balance shaft. This damn motor shakes the interior panels out of the truck since I put in the JTR HD mounts. I won't go back to the stock crap mounts but hell these things are a PITA. I know I just gotta get it tuned but I'm gonna keep everything that will smooth out my 4.3L. I'll be doing a new timing set at the time anyways so I might as well do the upgrade that will eliminate the rattle/knock. after I get the pool business going I'm going full out on the motor for the Blazer and I'll be doing some upgrades on the "Pool Truck" which of course will be a Dime. LoL!

[Mikz86TA]

So was that part in some later models or not? Kinda confused if GM installed it in 2001-later from the factory or not

[Jay-Sliver]

Update....

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/IMG00261-20120317-1753.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/IMG00260-20120317-1753.jpg


Today, being 20+ degrees out, and having a day off, I pulled her out to see the day light, and to get me motivated to find my noise.

I dont think there is a noise. I think with all the crap in the garage, and all the stuff that was touching the truck, and on top of the truck, and the exhaust drone inside the garage, I was hearing things. You know how it is....get that deep into an engine, and second guess yourself about that 2nd or 3rd bolt you installed way at the beginning of the assembly process...did I torque it or not? I pulled it out and ran it. The only noise I hear is increased valve train noise...with the cam having more lift and duration, a fresh 3 angle grind, and heavier springs, there is increased valve train noise. Other than that, every thing seems normal. I do hear some ticking from the spider assy, but that's normal.

Now, my W4M computer....I installed it, and there is an issue.....it IDLES at 2700RPM, and fluctuates up and down. No idea what is going on there. Fire my origional computer back in, and its ok. No codes on the W4M computer either...then again, I didnt want it to run too long and fluctuate up and down like it was, for too long. I'll have to contact Jesse Bubb at W4M to sort that issue out.

If tomorrow is decent enough out, im going to replace the passenger side ball joints, and service the brakes, make sure they are not going to stick after a year of sitting.


Oh, my boy went for his very first dirtbike ride today too....ok, it wasn't a ride, just a picture.. He will be 1 month on the 19th.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/tydirtbike.jpg



Jay

[spideyjected]

Awww, cute bebe (o:

[Mikz86TA]

lol awesome

[12sws27]

He'll be doing fender grabs and can cans before you know it.

[Jay-Sliver]

Well. Cleaned up the brakes this weekend....3/4 of them at least. Have yet to do the drivers rear. Fronts went as planned. Rotors had a decent ridge on them, so I took them to work, and hit em with my little grinder, then with a less abrasive buffing cookie to take some of the aggressive ridges away that the first disk left....cleaned up not too bad. Pads are about 50% life remaining. For them I hit them with the less abrasive cookie, chamfered the edges, and cleaned out the parting line in them, as well as opened it up with a little more aggressive chamfered one. I give them a dusting of red oxide primer just to keep the surface rust off them till its rolling again.


Oh, on the fronts, 1 of the stainless steel pad clips was broken/non-refitable to both left and right front INBOARD pads, so they went back into the anvil with no stainless steel clips. Not really a safety concern, it will just have an annoying click due to the added slop between the pad and anvil.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/b11b4832.jpg







As for the passengers rear side....the rotor was a PITA to get off. The hat part of the rotor had built up so much rust from sitting, that the park brake shoes were very tight to the rotor.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/32fdaff8.jpg






The backing plate...oh, wait....what backing plate? The Canadian elements have got the better part of it..
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/d1ddc607.jpg


Needless to say, the rears are going back together park brake-less and backing plate-less.





Oh, got a slight leak at the right front too....takes a week to go flat. See the leak?!? lol

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/6c0ca746.jpg


Jay

[Danzcameo]

Holy crap i forget how bad the corrosion can be up in the great white north, stuff down here wont look like that in 50 years unless you dip in the ocean. The Cameo is 23 years old and on its second exhaust sytem with years of life left-not trying to rub just saying wow

[Jay-Sliver]

I hear ya....remember..this thing is an 05....the backing plate had a hole in it 2 years ago, but I guess it got real bad since then. The park brake shoes clip to the backing plate. When I was fighting with the rotor to get it off, the park brake shoes came with the rotor, and the park brake shoes pulled what was left of the backing plate with it. I removed what was left, and reassembled without the backing plate or park brake. I'll have to get new park brake hardware, shoes, and backing plates. Needs a front end first...look close in the pictures and you can see I have already sprayed the adjuster sleeves for the tierod ends and all the hardware for the idler/pitman arms. Gonna prolly go through what used to be PPM. Forget what they are called now. I already have a set of their balljoints in the drivers side, have them for the passenger side, just have to put them in.


Jay

[droopy89]

Proforged now sir, and its definately worth the money to get all their stuff IMO, btw, ya done with the motor yet??

[Jay-Sliver]

Motor is done. I just have to finish up with the brake service and put full insurance back on it. I'll drive it for a couple days and do an oil change again. Will likely end up doing all fluids. Needs a left front wheel bearing too I believe. When i did my right front, I bought a lifetime wheel bearing, so im going to see if I can scam the auto parts company again. I already got a free water pump out of them when i put the engine back together.

Just gotta find my wheel bearing receipt.


Jay

[Jay-Sliver]

Numbers are in...well, not HP numbers or anything, but more importantly these days, Mileage numbers. On its first 90% highway 10% city driving trip, it scored 18.77MPG WITHOUT the waitforme computer in it. The WFM computer has been programmed wrong and is being sent back so he can redo it. He claims I will see another 2mpg increase in my economy once its installed.

I'm happy so far.

The exhaust note video that I took is no good, too much wind. I will try to get another one soon, its pissin cats and dogs out there right now.


Jay

[spideyjected]

Not too shabby as it is.

[Mikz86TA]

Better milage than mine city. Im getting 16.4 city

[12sws27]

Best I've got on highway is just a tad (0.something) over 20mpg. Cruising at 70-90mph most the way A/C on.

18mph in a 4x4 with out the proper tune isn't bad imo. I don't see why you couldn't get 20mpg after a good tune.

[Jay-Sliver]

http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/?action=view&current=23ead9f0.mp4


^^^^Exhaust Vid^^^^

[Mikz86TA]

Decent lope :)

[Jay-Sliver]

The video does it no justice. It lopes a pile. In the vid it sounds like it has a miss...which it doesn't. I think its because my Muffler is a straight through 3" Dynomax Racebullet... no time for the exhaust pulses to combine and even out kinda thing.. get what im saying? lol


Jay

[Mikz86TA]

Yea. Honestly it sounds mild to be a straight thru muffler. Then again my Hooker sounds mild at idle compared to the Super40 I had. But really opens up on revs.
Hows it run and drive?
Get some rev vids and drive by's
Its a 266HR cam with 1.5 rockers right

[12sws27]

Yeah I feel short changed. I wanna here it under load and at high rpms.

A little burn out video would be perfect. :)

[Jay-Sliver]

I'll see what I can do

[Mikz86TA]

lol

[12sws27]

0-60 vid of the gauges would be cool too. :D he he

[Jay-Sliver]

0-60 vid of the gauges would be cool too. :D he heThat I can do.

[Jay-Sliver]

http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/?action=view&current=8bd4abed.mp4

^^^ 0ish to 130ish kms/hr^^^


I'll see if I can do one leaving work tonight with the window up....less noise.



Jay

[Jay-Sliver]

Here is a better in-truck video.

http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/TheyCallMeSliver/?action=view&current=ad610811.mp4


Still have yet to get out to a back country paved road to do a fly-by.




Jay

[Jongo88]

How are you holding the phone and driving???

[Jay-Sliver]

Very carefully...lol

[12sws27]

Damn I didn't think about you having a 5 speed. It's a PITA when I've done my vids and the Jimmy is an Auto. If I would of thought of that I probably wouldn't of asked. :p

BTW......you're shifting like a girl...rev that mofo! :D

[Mikz86TA]

lol...I tht I heard an 'eh in there :)
I noticed the Canadian dash has the SES logo instead of it written out