Wynjammer is now installed!

[D-Caf]

Well I finally installed the wynjammer on Saturday. So far have to say I like it. Going to take some getting used to, boy does that thing scream. My wife says it sounds like a jet engine running.

The install went alright, but not quick. Ended up taking about 5 hours to install by myself. I had some issues with bolts not wanting to come off, some bolts being different than the install sheet thought they would be, and things not fitting like they should have. Amazingly enough all the belts were nice and tight, so no worries there. I do have a small issue with the air filter hitting the hood when it's closed. For some reason it is just sitting to high, I managed to fix that by not using the air-duct hanging bracket and letting the entire intake tube sit lower.

So far running it, I would say it is deceptively quick. It actually feels like it's lost a little in the low rpm range, but I think that is just my imagination. When I put the foot down, even though it doesn't feel super fast while accelerating, it's just incredible how fast the needles move on the speedometer and tachometer ;). Driving in the rain/wet pavement sucks, REALLY have to keep the foot off it or the rear tires break free. On dry pavement, I can get the rear to break free sometimes in first gear but not the higher ones (It's a Blazer, so I've got more weight in the back).

The only think I have left to deal with is a little bit of pinging at the very top of the rpm range under WOT acceleration. I think this may be because of a shortage of fuel, my fuel filter is way over due to be changed. I'll do that this week. Oh and so far NO codes, it's a happy camper.

[Sparky2263]

Hot dayum! Get it on a dyno soon if you can. I'm really curious. Make sure the dyno operator installs the O2 sensor in FRONT of the cat. Seen a few lately that looked like they were just stuck in the tailpipe.

[xtreme canuck]

Well I finally installed the wynjammer on Saturday. So far have to say I like it. Going to take some getting used to, boy does that thing scream. My wife says it sounds like a jet engine running.

The install went alright, but not quick. Ended up taking about 5 hours to install by myself. I had some issues with bolts not wanting to come off, some bolts being different than the install sheet thought they would be, and things not fitting like they should have. Amazingly enough all the belts were nice and tight, so no worries there. I do have a small issue with the air filter hitting the hood when it's closed. For some reason it is just sitting to high, I managed to fix that by not using the air-duct hanging bracket and letting the entire intake tube sit lower.

So far running it, I would say it is deceptively quick. It actually feels like it's lost a little in the low rpm range, but I think that is just my imagination. When I put the foot down, even though it doesn't feel super fast while accelerating, it's just incredible how fast the needles move on the speedometer and tachometer ;). Driving in the rain/wet pavement sucks, REALLY have to keep the foot off it or the rear tires break free. On dry pavement, I can get the rear to break free sometimes in first gear but not the higher ones (It's a Blazer, so I've got more weight in the back).

The only think I have left to deal with is a little bit of pinging at the very top of the rpm range under WOT acceleration. I think this may be because of a shortage of fuel, my fuel filter is way over due to be changed. I'll do that this week. Oh and so far NO codes, it's a happy camper.
i tried not running the duct bracket and i think over time the weight from the air filter , maf , and tubing will cause your clamps to work their way loose and your tubing will fall off... thats what happened to me.

[D-Caf]

i tried not running the duct bracket and i think over time the weight from the air filter , maf , and tubing will cause your clamps to work their way loose and your tubing will fall off... thats what happened to me.

Yeah I was worried about that, so I took some zip ties and made up for the distance between the bracket and the hose clamp with the ties. So the air duct is now supported by the bracket connected to zip ties connected to the air duct hose clamp. It's ain't pretty, but it's hidden and I think it works ;). I also made sure all the other hose clamps were on good and tight.

[D-Caf]

Hot dayum! Get it on a dyno soon if you can. I'm really curious. Make sure the dyno operator installs the O2 sensor in FRONT of the cat. Seen a few lately that looked like they were just stuck in the tailpipe.

I'll get it dyno'd probably next week. I want to make sure I have the pinging at high rpm taken care of before that, and give the truck some time to get used to the new setup. I'll be calling this week to setup the dyno time. Then we can all take a look at the gains over my dyno run last week :)

[03 Rado]

Dam it thought you'd take until Christmas to install that thing, its about time!!

[ZR1 S10]

Well I finally installed the wynjammer on Saturday. So far have to say I like it. Going to take some getting used to, boy does that thing scream. My wife says it sounds like a jet engine running.

The install went alright, but not quick. Ended up taking about 5 hours to install by myself. I had some issues with bolts not wanting to come off, some bolts being different than the install sheet thought they would be, and things not fitting like they should have. Amazingly enough all the belts were nice and tight, so no worries there. I do have a small issue with the air filter hitting the hood when it's closed. For some reason it is just sitting to high, I managed to fix that by not using the air-duct hanging bracket and letting the entire intake tube sit lower.

So far running it, I would say it is deceptively quick. It actually feels like it's lost a little in the low rpm range, but I think that is just my imagination. When I put the foot down, even though it doesn't feel super fast while accelerating, it's just incredible how fast the needles move on the speedometer and tachometer ;). Driving in the rain/wet pavement sucks, REALLY have to keep the foot off it or the rear tires break free. On dry pavement, I can get the rear to break free sometimes in first gear but not the higher ones (It's a Blazer, so I've got more weight in the back).

The only think I have left to deal with is a little bit of pinging at the very top of the rpm range under WOT acceleration. I think this may be because of a shortage of fuel, my fuel filter is way over due to be changed. I'll do that this week. Oh and so far NO codes, it's a happy camper.

I wouldnt be a happy camper if I was pinging in ANY rpm range. Def get that fixxed! I recomend a msd box, prolly the BTM one and retard the timing just a hair. Or you can get a water injection kit that should solve the problem. :star_125:

[bvr775]

I'v been hearing allot of people complaining about the rubber ducts on a-intake for the GMs.

I guess it's time I let go of my secret. take some tumbtacts or brads and push them into the rubber. them clap your hose clap over them. They bite into the plastic real well and you dont have to worry about the rubber pulling off.
for metal houseings and tubes just hit it with some 30 grit sand paper where the ruber conectors go on.

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

As xtreme canuck stated: not using that bracket will make it come loose. I also know from experience -- I was getting into it pretty hard and it jst died. I came to find out that the intake tubing had come loose because I didn't have that bracket in place.

I had my chrome-topped K&N in place, but switched it out for the filter that came with the Wynjammer, now it fits nicely. I'm working on re-routing the intake tubing -- I want to drop it down behind the bumper, if possible. . . I don't want to extend the tubing too much, but I want cooler air (well, cooler than it's seeing now, which is pretty cool comparatively speaking).

But, you can get the whole thing to fit -- there's enough room for adjustment to allow for it. It's not so much that the tubing will drop, but with the zip ties on there it will bounce, so it'll still work itself loose. The metal bracket won't allow it to move, so it can't work itself loose. I'd try to find a way to get it on there -- you can mount it to a different bolt on the S/C if you need to.

You've got one BIG advantage: you can always slap that bugger into 4-HI for traction! Of course, then you'll be doing 4-wheel burnouts!

So. . . Happy with it so far? The pinging might be due to the settings on the programmer or due to the fuel. You need to use no less than 91 octane and on the programmer you need to set it for "regular fuel" and not the higher octanes -- it's advancing the timing if you use those settings, which is BAD for an S/C. I don't have the manual in front of me right now, but I'll list what I have found to be the ideal settings with the programmer when I get the chance.

[D-Caf]

I'v been hearing allot of people complaining about the rubber ducts on a-intake for the GMs.

I guess it's time I let go of my secret. take some tumbtacts or brads and push them into the rubber. them clap your hose clap over them. They bite into the plastic real well and you dont have to worry about the rubber pulling off.
for metal houseings and tubes just hit it with some 30 grit sand paper where the ruber conectors go on.

Thanks, but it's actually not the tubing on the stock air-intake that is the worry, it's the Wynjammer air intake tubing (which is not smooth) that's the worry.

But that's good to know if you are having issues with the stock intake.

[D-Caf]

As xtreme canuck stated: not using that bracket will make it come loose. I also know from experience -- I was getting into it pretty hard and it jst died. I came to find out that the intake tubing had come loose because I didn't have that bracket in place.

I had my chrome-topped K&N in place, but switched it out for the filter that came with the Wynjammer, now it fits nicely. I'm working on re-routing the intake tubing -- I want to drop it down behind the bumper, if possible. . . I don't want to extend the tubing too much, but I want cooler air (well, cooler than it's seeing now, which is pretty cool comparatively speaking).

But, you can get the whole thing to fit -- there's enough room for adjustment to allow for it. It's not so much that the tubing will drop, but with the zip ties on there it will bounce, so it'll still work itself loose. The metal bracket won't allow it to move, so it can't work itself loose. I'd try to find a way to get it on there -- you can mount it to a different bolt on the S/C if you need to.

You've got one BIG advantage: you can always slap that bugger into 4-HI for traction! Of course, then you'll be doing 4-wheel burnouts!

So. . . Happy with it so far? The pinging might be due to the settings on the programmer or due to the fuel. You need to use no less than 91 octane and on the programmer you need to set it for "regular fuel" and not the higher octanes -- it's advancing the timing if you use those settings, which is BAD for an S/C. I don't have the manual in front of me right now, but I'll list what I have found to be the ideal settings with the programmer when I get the chance.

That could be my problem, I set it for high-octane fuel since I'm filling it with 93 octane. I did use the timing retard control on the programmer to put a negative 5% retard on it. It reduced but didn't eliminate the pinging.

I'm still going to play around with the settings some more, and change the fuel filter (it's long overdue) and see if that helps some. I don't want to be pushing it hard untill I get that knock in the upper end taken care of.

[LoRyder]

Sweet man! I had the same problem as you with the tubing being to high. All i did was find a scrap peice of thick rubber and put that between the tube and the bracket and then tighten up the hose clamp. It lowered the tubing by about half an inch.
Also, like Super said, you can unbolt the bracket and move it to a lower hole. (I beleive there is one available, but you may need a seperate bolt for it).
Hope you get your pinging fixed. Like some said, it may be due to your ignition system, did you change your plugs, and gap them correctly?

[bigplans10]

i'm new here but could someone give me some input on these things?

[Sparky2263]

bigplans, if you type in wynjammer in a search on this site, you'll be reading for days. They love 'em here. Very good product IMO from a N/A guy.

(Well, I like a little spray here and there ;))

[bigplans10]

i can see that they are liked but i also see that there are some gripes, but most of them look like installation problems no performance problems. i was really asking for some result as far as numbers on hp and tq and at what psi, also would it be possible to add a charge cooler to one of these?

[Joe]

i can see that they are liked but i also see that there are some gripes, but most of them look like installation problems no performance problems. i was really asking for some result as far as numbers on hp and tq and at what psi, also would it be possible to add a charge cooler to one of these? From the ASSDYNO its a big two thumbs up.

[D-Caf]

Well, hopefully tomorrow I'll have some dyno numbers for you. Going to the dyno tomorrow afternoon.

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

i can see that they are liked but i also see that there are some gripes, but most of them look like installation problems no performance problems. i was really asking for some result as far as numbers on hp and tq and at what psi, also would it be possible to add a charge cooler to one of these?
Installation is fairly simple, but there can be complications. I had a couple, but they were resolved rather easily (mainly they Operator Headspace Error in my case).

Dyno figures are coming soon. The original kit put down an additional 65 rwhp to the tires on an otherwise 100% stock truck. No torque figures on that dyno, but there are enough people around that will have them soon enough!

There is really no need to add a charge cooler (air-water intercooler, air-air intercooler, or water/alcohol injection). The air charge, due to the design of the blower itself is such that you will have an air charge that is only marginally above ambient temps, so an air charge cooler would only serve to reduce the boost you are getting and wouldn't show any gains. Now, if you were going with anything over 9-10 psi THEN you would need an air-charge cooler, but you would need to perform fuel system upgrades WAY before you would need to deal with that.

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

Well, hopefully tomorrow I'll have some dyno numbers for you. Going to the dyno tomorrow afternoon.
Keep us posted, D-Caf! I want to see that dyno as much as anyone. . . Speaking of which, I need to schedule one myself. . . Just for S&Gs, if nothing else.

[D-Caf]

Go check out this thread:

http://www.sicgmtrucks.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3044

Dyno numbers are there...

[bigplans10]

i have another ? when you s/c a motor you need more fuel and spark. the spark part is easy but how about the fuel? obviously a higher flow pump is needed but doens't the 4.3 have a pressure reg. on the intake or somewhere? or and the number put up have deffinated convinced me to cancel my swap and go with the jammer with the MSD 6BTM, headers, and some fuel mod. also thinking of running 10 psi instead of 6 since i'm using the msd and a modded fuel system along with the header. i figured that should put out some respectable numbers. i'm ya'll have any suggestion please let me know

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

i have another ? when you s/c a motor you need more fuel and spark. the spark part is easy but how about the fuel? obviously a higher flow pump is needed but doens't the 4.3 have a pressure reg. on the intake or somewhere? or and the number put up have deffinated convinced me to cancel my swap and go with the jammer with the MSD 6BTM, headers, and some fuel mod. also thinking of running 10 psi instead of 6 since i'm using the msd and a modded fuel system along with the header. i figured that should put out some respectable numbers. i'm ya'll have any suggestion please let me know
Going with 10 psi you will need substantial fuel system upgrades: one of the manifolds "floating" around, a better fuel pump, etc. The stock injectors aren't upgradeable and won't support that kind of boost. An FMU is an option -- albeit not a great one. Or you can try one of the SDS systems that Al @ Wynjammer recommends.

To be honest, start with the 6 psi kit, do the other bolt-ons you want, and THEN think about more boost. You'll be amazed at what just 6 psi will do for your power. . . Start small and THEN work into the higher numbers.

Hell, I was running a 9 psi Powerdyne and dropped to 6 psi with the Wynjammer and it FEELS faster with less boost. It's all about the OTHER mods that you do to compliment the S/C, and not just the boost the S/C produces.

[bigplans10]

cool, thanks for the input. what intake manifold are you talking about the only one i've seen is by edelbrock and i'm not even sure that one will work with my truck