Time for control arm bushings

[95SS]

So at 125k my bushings are toast. I'm going with poly's mainly because they held up good with no squeaks on my lifted superduty. My question is should I buy the kit that comes with inner and outer sleeves or the cheaper one with just the inner sleeves. Thanks for any help.

[neo71665]

What ya working on? 2wd, 4x4, 1st or 2nd gen.

I don't think the gens matter as the bushings didn't change. The 4x4s don't come with the sleeves I think. They might have changed things up since I last looked.

[95SS]

2000 2wd

[jasond]

I'd get the set with sleeves. You should check out the moog thermoplastic bushings. They perform like poly, without the stickiness and squeaking. There are also tubular upper control arm options also...

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[neo71665]

Get the sleeves.

[95SS]

Thanks for the advice guys.

[00S104.3]

I have prothane polyurethane control arm bushings and they squeak really bad in cold weather. I greased them up really good when I installed them but they still squeak.

[95SS]

Well spent saturaday and about 4 hours sunday and got the passenger side swapped out with the new. Will be off duty thursday and plan on doing the driver side should be faster now that I know what to expect.

[Bootlegger's Deluxe]

glad to hear progress is happening ...

[95SS]

It's happening but I told the wife next time I will buy the bushings and pay someone else to deal with the aggrevation of the install.

[neo71665]

I do my own, its really not that bad.

[Worx]

On the uppers I would have gone with the UB upper control arms......

The problem with the stock rubber bushings is they sit too close to the exhaust manifolds (4.3) & will be tortured by the heat & will fail soon.

The UB arms are cheaper than stock bushing replacement.

[95SS]

I got the poly energy kit for both sides for $72 shipped and I'm making some heatshields to combat the heat. The hardest part I had was getting the lower back in and lined up while compressing the coilspring.

[Hammer Head]

The hardest part I had was getting the lower back in and lined up while compressing the coilspring.

That's why you put the bolts through the lower arm before you swing the arm in place & compress the spring. I sure hope you were smart enough to do it this way... otherwise you'd be lucky to only knock all your teeth out, if something did go wrong, doing it the way I just read.

[neo71665]

X2, The hardest part should be getting the old bushings out and new ones in.

[95SS]

Well I didnt do it that way the way I done it is what the stupid a-- haynes manual says. I will definately do the driverside different.

[neo71665]

Ill have to check my 2nd gen haynes but every one I've seen all suggest (in a nutshell) jacking up the lower a arm, taking the spindle loose, letting the jack down slowly to let the pressure off, taking the spring out, and finish.

[Hammer Head]

Yep, & after the spring & shock are out you take down the LCA.. then reverse to install.

[95SS]

Done with the bushings got the driver side done start to finish in 5 hrs. And was alot easier leaving the bolts in the lower.

[Hammer Head]

Glad to hear that & even happier you did it safer.

[White-V-6-S-Ten]

How is it riding with the new parts? Have you only done one side?

[95SS]

Yes both sides are done rides alot better with the exception of the worn out shock on the driverside. Will be replacing them on Sat.