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s10blazed
05-22-05, 01:00 AM
Today I changed some lines in my truck. I changed the LF that goes from the ABS box to the wheel and a section from the ABS box to the rear. While I was doing the work my master cylinder drained out from one of my lines leaking that I left hang. So I put it all back together, bleed it as usual and my brakes fade like a *****. There is tons of air trapped somewhere. It makes a gurling sound in either the master cylinder or the brake booster every time you press the pedal.

I replaced the LF caliper, and the entire line from the ABS box to the wheel including the flexible line. If I have the truck off I pump the brakes and they get stiff with 1 pump, but if I have it running, it goes straight to the floor. There is no leaks, I double and triple checked every one. I bled all wheels at least 15 times. My dad recommended that I try taking loose the connections right on the master cylinder as I bled them, but that didn't help. My dad is dead set that my problem is that I did not coil the lines I put in. The origional ones had 1 coil in them before they made their runs... I didn't put the coil back in when I bent them. I don't see how that could be causing my problems, but he insists that is what it is. In any case, i'm out of ideas. Any one with some insight?

1993blazerlt
05-22-05, 11:14 AM
The coil needs to be in there. The master cylinder is mounted to your body which can move differently from the frame where the brake lines attach to. You will break that brake line if you don't have a coil in it. Have you tried a pressure bleeder that might help you get all the air out they are very easy to make
http://www.arkansaspontiacs.org/tec...der%20story.htm
http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
Theses two links show how to make one very cheap

s10blazed
05-22-05, 11:32 AM
ahhh, so thats why the coils are there. If thats the only reason I will take my chances with them gone. I was told this is most likely a bad master cylinder or my ABS unit needs bled. That pressure bleeder looks easy enough to make. thanks for the info.

Sparky2263
05-22-05, 02:34 PM
You need to cycle the abs unit. Most easily accomplished on gravel, dirt, grass, etc. Get it rolling above 8 mph and stomp the pedal. You should feel an instant increase after cycling. Continue to do until it gets no better (usually 5 or 6 times). Then bleed brakes again.

Also, make sure the rear brakes are adjusted up properly.

s10blazed
05-22-05, 03:39 PM
Thanks guys. I replaced the master cylinder and bled the entire system like crazy. I think I changed all of the fluid by doing this. At least it's all new now. I have not been able to cycle the ABS because it's all tore apart. Before I swapped the master cylinder it definitely would not have stopped at all. There was no pedal. Now it is pretty good and grabs but the pedal is still squishy. Just air in the line still I imagine. I also have a loop in my rear lines that goes up above my differential and I think it is causing a high spot. Is this a concern? Should I crack the lines at the coupling on top of my differential in case there is an air pocket?