Wynjammer Dyno Numbers! (and VR Velocity stack info)

[D-Caf]

Ok, I took it to the Dyno today, three runs total, first and last run was with the VR Velocity stack installed, second run was with the VR velocity stack removed. The best results were the second run:

MAX RWHP = 217.2
MAX Torque = 253.2

This compares to a pre-wynjammer run (but with a K&N FIPK2, Hypertech PPIII programming, and VR Stack) of:

MAX RWHP = 162.8
MAX Torque = 216.6

So removing the K&N, HPPII and VR Velocity stack and adding the Wynjammer boosted HP by ~55 HP and ~36 ft/lbs. I think that probably fits into around a 65HP boost with the Wynjammer (with removed mods taken into account). I think I can probably get another 2-5 hp out of the Wynjammer as well with a change in tuning (using the premium fuel setting instead of the medium grad fuel setting) and relocation the air temp sensor (currently located before the S/C head, was told should have been installed post S/C head).

I talked to Al and he said that if you run premium (93 octane or higher) fuel that you chose the S/C tuning + the high octane fuel setting. It apparently is supposed to take the S/C into account with the premium fuel setting. This was also when he told be he would install the Air Temp Sensor in the pressure bonnet area and not before the S/C in the air intake section.

Important Note!!!
Do NOT use the VR Velocity stack in a force air induction setup. It dropped my HP by ~10HP and ~9 ft/lbs. It may help regular induction setups, but it definetly hinders forced air. I was disappointed in my first run with the VR Stack installed, so decided to run the second with out it. The second run was good, and closer to what I expected. Just to make sure I reinstalled the VR Stack for the third and last run, and it was right back to almost the same results as the first run. So do NOT use a VR stack with a S/C!

Dyno sheets are attached. The first image is of just the second run (and best results). The second image has all runs including the pre-jammer run.

[slowzq8]

thank you. those are some pretty nice gains

[Matt 4.3 TBI]

Be careful using the Premium tuning, as this usually just means more ignition timing, which is needs to be carefully monitored with boost. You really don't want to start pinging with a blower, your rotating assembly will not appreciate it :D

[Maximus]

Well by golly if that ain't enough proof for the doubters then i don't know what is.And that is great numbers too.Making 65hp on 6psi is a pretty decent gain if you ask me.And with no damn FMU too.

[D-Caf]

Be careful using the Premium tuning, as this usually just means more ignition timing, which is needs to be carefully monitored with boost. You really don't want to start pinging with a blower, your rotating assembly will not appreciate it :D

Yep, that's why I'm still running the medium setting. Just will take some for fiddling and testing. I don't want to have to go get a new engine :eek:

[Joe]

what is thid fuel setting you guys are talking about, my programmer with my jammer never aske me about premium of high octane settings, So I ve been running 93 octane this whole time. I would put in the performance program, set my spped limiter and set my gear ratio amd it would take a few minutes and said it was done and to remove the pro flash?????
Nick

[flatblack]

So, Al told you to put the cold air sensor in the pressure bonnet area??? does this give you more hp?

[Joe]

what is thid fuel setting you guys are talking about, my programmer with my jammer never aske me about premium of high octane settings, So I ve been running 93 octane this whole time. I would put in the performance program, set my spped limiter and set my gear ratio amd it would take a few minutes and said it was done and to remove the pro flash?????
Nick
P.s. my programmer just says, performance tune, Is that the s/c tune???

[D-Caf]

So, Al told you to put the cold air sensor in the pressure bonnet area??? does this give you more hp?

Yes that's what his email back to me said. I need to call and talk with him on the phone first to make sure I didn't get that mixed up between our emails. He said it was to more closely measure the temp of the air going into the engine (since it is higher temp after the S/C than before).

[jomama]

thats pretty sweet. what does it do to your fuel consumption i mean provided you dont get on it more than you used to

[D-Caf]

what is thid fuel setting you guys are talking about, my programmer with my jammer never aske me about premium of high octane settings, So I ve been running 93 octane this whole time. I would put in the performance program, set my spped limiter and set my gear ratio amd it would take a few minutes and said it was done and to remove the pro flash?????
Nick
P.s. my programmer just says, performance tune, Is that the s/c tune???

On my programmer, it asks me lots of questions. Here is a basic list (from memory):

1. Install what tuning: Supercharger, stock, performance
2. What fuel type: regular, medium octane, high octane
3. What shifting: stock, economy, towing, performance
4. What shifting rpm: stock, economy, towing, performance
5. What tire size
6. What gears
7. what speed limiter: stock, 130mph, unlimited mph.
8. Change ignition timing: -%5, 0, +%5

I think that covers the options on my programmer, there may have been one more, but can't remember it. Oh, and the option to read codes or begin tuning at the beginning.

[D-Caf]

thats pretty sweet. what does it do to your fuel consumption i mean provided you dont get on it more than you used to

So far I think it's about the same, but I need to not get on it to realy find out. Hard not to rev it when the power is there (and no, I can not keep up with a C5 corvette, though I didn't fall behind to fast....)

I just filled the tank today, and it got about 19mpg in the last 190 miles. But atleast half of that was highway driving (at about 80mph). So that's about right, given I floored it several times in that time span.

If I can keep my foot off the petal for the next week maybe I'll get to find out what kind of normal mpg I can get.

[flatblack]

On my programmer, it asks me lots of questions. Here is a basic list (from memory):

1. Install what tuning: Supercharger, stock, performance
2. What fuel type: regular, medium octane, high octane
3. What shifting: stock, economy, towing, performance
4. What shifting rpm: stock, economy, towing, performance
5. What tire size
6. What gears
7. what speed limiter: stock, 130mph, unlimited mph.
8. Change ignition timing: -%5, 0, +%5

I think that covers the options on my programmer, there may have been one more, but can't remember it. Oh, and the option to read codes or begin tuning at the beginning.

Damn, i wish my programmer had all those options...i think i had performance tuning, speedo limit and tire size and thats it....wonder what the deal is with the different programmers???

[Joe]

I wonder if there is somthing wrong with my programmer. The only option it gave me was org-tune, or High performance tune, speedo, tire, gear, and able to read dtc, I,m confused, It is a 5 speed so that would explaine why there is no shift firmnace , but why not the rest???
Nick

[flatblack]

what he said^^^^

[flatblack]

So far I think it's about the same, but I need to not get on it to realy find out. Hard not to rev it when the power is there (and no, I can not keep up with a C5 corvette, though I didn't fall behind to fast....)

I just filled the tank today, and it got about 19mpg in the last 190 miles. But atleast half of that was highway driving (at about 80mph). So that's about right, given I floored it several times in that time span.

If I can keep my foot off the petal for the next week maybe I'll get to find out what kind of normal mpg I can get.

I took a trip to dallas from houston and was able to get 330 miles out of one tank, and before the s/c i couldnt get any more than 300 miles per tank....so it increased mine, with ever so much self control!!!

[Joe]

I am goin to be Pissed if I have to senfd this programmer back because it will take almost three weeks for me to get the right one.

The only thing I can come up with is the year of the vehicle and what tranny it has determines what program the programmer allows you to access.
I just dont know why they can access different grade fuel and s/c performance options.
mine is an 03, his is a 1998 auto.
I dont know, anyone else got any I deas???

[flatblack]

mine is an 01' and i have the same problem...must be the year of the truck...

[jomama]

thats why i was asking about the mileage cause a long time ago someone told me it did increase mileage. huh i guess maybe he wasnt a liar.

[lamerboy]

Youre going to blow up your motor running a/f ratios like that. get an fmu, extra injectors or bigger injectors before you end up having to buy a new engine.

Numbers will only better with the right a/f ratio. You want 11.5:1 NOT 13:1-14:1.

[03 Rado]

Youre going to blow up your motor running a/f ratios like that. get an fmu, extra injectors or bigger injectors before you end up having to buy a new engine.

Numbers will only better with the right a/f ratio. You want 11.5:1 NOT 13:1-14:1.

Thats totally not true. 12.5-14.1 is the ideal range for maximum performance and its up to you which to tune for on a dyno to see the max your motor will make. It all depends on the unstability of the air charge is why you may want to run richer to cool the cylinders under forced air. If they were running over 6 PSI and approaching 10PSI then you might have a case of going low 12's and into the high 11's. You lose power faster going too rich and you tune to find the threshold of minor ping and tune a few points richer to protect.

[D-Caf]

Youre going to blow up your motor running a/f ratios like that. get an fmu, extra injectors or bigger injectors before you end up having to buy a new engine.

Numbers will only better with the right a/f ratio. You want 11.5:1 NOT 13:1-14:1.

The a/f ratios in the chart are being measured from the tail pipe, so post CAT. From what I've heard those are the kind of levels you will see after the CAT. I need to get an a/f meter plugged in pre-cat to get good numbers.

[Sparky2263]

The a/f ratios in the chart are being measured from the tail pipe, so post CAT. From what I've heard those are the kind of levels you will see after the CAT. I need to get an a/f meter plugged in pre-cat to get good numbers.

Why did they plug it in post cat again? The dynojet O2 sensor has a threaded sensor to screw into the O2 sensor. They also lifted before 4800 and HP was still rising. Also doesn't state corrected or uncorrected.

Not a good dyno test in IMO.

[ZR1-S10]

My last dyno showed 12.5:1 before the cat and they reved it to 5400rpms. Your's could have been done better.

[D-Caf]

The dyno is SAE corrected. I could have asked for them to put the 02 sensor pre cat, but I wanted an consistent comparison against my previous dyno, not necessarily the most accurate results. I may go back and get another dyno after some more tweaking and ask about having the sensor pre-cat.

As for the lifting before the 4800, we have to figure out what the deal is with that. He said it felt like a speed limiter was kicking in, but I had changed the setting to 130mph, and it's shouldn't have kicked in. He was also running these dyno test in 3rd gear, I forgot the reason he gave for that. I'm wondering if it's a rev-limiter in third gear or something, cause I have't run into the problem in 1st or 2nd when testing personaly (I have not run it at that high an rpm in 3rd as it would be very dangerous given the roads and speed limits). That or for some reason the speed limiter didn't get changed, but short of seriously braking the law, no easy way to test that without another dyno run.

[flatblack]

what you should have told the guy to hit the NAWWWWS!! at 4800!!!

[lamerboy]

Thats totally not true. 12.5-14.1 is the ideal range for maximum performance and its up to you which to tune for on a dyno to see the max your motor will make. It all depends on the unstability of the air charge is why you may want to run richer to cool the cylinders under forced air. If they were running over 6 PSI and approaching 10PSI then you might have a case of going low 12's and into the high 11's. You lose power faster going too rich and you tune to find the threshold of minor ping and tune a few points richer to protect.

12.5:1 naturally aspirated.

I promise you, target a/f ratio on a force induction motor no matter what boost level is right around 11.5:1. I'm not making this up, I know from experience using an LM-1 wideband with the o2 sensor before the cat on a '99 S10 with a vortech blower.

[bvr775]

:lol:

[ZR1-S10]

D-Caf, it's got to be the speed limiter, no reason for the rev limiter to come on at 4800rpms in 3rd and the valve body won't let it up shift to 4th at WOT. Try removing the speed limiter completely for the next dyno run.

[Sparky2263]

Use the gear ratio/tire size/speed calculator I provided in the other post. Dyno is always run in 1:1 trans. ratio (3rd gear for us). It may have hit 130 in 3rd.

Concur with lamerboy on a/f ratios also.

[biglouie_underpressure]

Thats totally not true. 12.5-14.1 is the ideal range for maximum performance and its up to you which to tune for on a dyno to see the max your motor will make. It all depends on the unstability of the air charge is why you may want to run richer to cool the cylinders under forced air. If they were running over 6 PSI and approaching 10PSI then you might have a case of going low 12's and into the high 11's. You lose power faster going too rich and you tune to find the threshold of minor ping and tune a few points richer to protect.
key word: MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE

[Sparky2263]

unstability? That's a new one for me.

[Maximus]

key word: MAXIMUM PERFORMANCEBoy those two words sound good together lol.Oops sorry back on topic lol.

[biglouie_underpressure]

unstability? That's a new one for me.
look whos talking out of all ppl LMAO

[biglouie_underpressure]

does anyone atleast have theory why he dropped 10hp with the V-stack?

[Sparky2263]

Top Web Results for "unstability"


No entry found for unstability.
Suggestions:
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un-stability
unsuitability
Insuitability
Unsatiability
insatiability
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unstably
Autostability
unsociability





I tried. :)

[Sparky2263]

does anyone atleast have theory why he dropped 10hp with the V-stack?

Odd ain't it? Goes against conventional wisdom. But I was never big on conventional wisdom anyway.

[biglouie_underpressure]

:google:

[bvr775]

more myths aehh
your a/f is going to vary from plase to plase and season to season , altitude to altitude. It is, as rado said,it's unstable unstabile in a way. I would first have to explain a carborators idle and choke circuit then explain FI and it's lack of either then explain why this matters. well my corpel tunnel is actting up today and I'm in a lot of pain right now so look it up yourself.

get all the info and basically play with it till it runs the way "YOU" want it to, but remeber you have a cat so you really want to watch it. too much unburned fuel will ruin your day.

I really recomend getting a precat reading next time as as continuing to monitor your tailpipe readings.

[D-Caf]

Alright, don't highjack my thread guys with word vs word, I'm a lousy speller, so no idea on what are real or fake words :p.

Anyways, if it is possible to hit 130 in 3rd, then that may have done it, damn, and I thought 130 would keep me clear. Next time I'll just do it with unlimited, but I'm first going to do some work to make sure I don't have any pinging at the top end (or atleast very minimal), so it'll be a little while before I dyno again.

I'll leave it up to someone else to get more results in, but I think I accomplished what I was looking for. Two good comparison runs, one without the jammer, one with the jammer, and a change in performance, that atleast in my eyes justifies the purchase of the Wynjammer S/C. And since I'm only running 6 psi (claimed, but not verified on my setup) plenty of space for more power with a better fuel system and beefier internals! :D

[Sparky2263]

This ain't no myth;

14.7-1 Stoichmetric (what is considered "perfect" cruising a/f ratio. Newer sytems can cruise up to 17-1 with the wide band sensors they're using. re:Honda)

13-1 (plus or minus a point) ideal WOT N/A for maximum POWER

12-1 (plus or minus a point) ideal WOT blown for maximum POWER

I am, of course, referring to the engines with which we modify here on this forum.

[Sparky2263]

Alright, don't highjack my thread guys with word vs word, I'm a lousy speller, so no idea on what are real or fake words :p.

Anyways, if it is possible to hit 130 in 3rd, then that may have done it, damn, and I thought 130 would keep me clear. Next time I'll just do it with unlimited, but I'm first going to do some work to make sure I don't have any pinging at the top end (or atleast very minimal), so it'll be a little while before I dyno again.

I'll leave it up to someone else to get more results in, but I think I accomplished what I was looking for. Two good comparison runs, one without the jammer, one with the jammer, and a change in performance, that atleast in my eyes justifies the purchase of the Wynjammer S/C. And since I'm only running 6 psi (claimed, but not verified on my setup) plenty of space for more power with a better fuel system and beefier internals! :D

I think a good test, with the ability to tune on the dyno, is gonna yield some eye-opening numbers.

...did I mention O2 sensor location? ;)

[MotoPsychoZ]

Just got an email from Al and mine is on the way! I will schedule a dyno also to compare results but if I get 217 rwhp I will be stoked!!!

[xblzr03]

Looks like some pretty nice numbers.... here's mine from a couple months ago.

Took it down to Sean with a dirty K&N drop in filter and a flowmaster 40 series with stock tailpipe.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/574000-574999/574535_79_full.jpg

Mine was one of the first S-Series, I think, Sean had done. The reason I got a print out of only 2 runs was because on the first one he had messed up (had to get used to a s-series compared to DSM). On mine the A/F ratio was done at the tailpipe just as they did on D-Caf's truck. The dyno looks a little goofy due to the stock tune (Torque Managment SUCKS balls! [explains why the numbers look a little low]).

Now, I have to take it down and see what kind of numbers I can put down. Was he cool with you wrenching on the truck in between runs?

[03 Rado]

Yes, Unstability, lean air fuel ratios-high compression-high static compression-hot air-advanced timing all lead to and unstable conditions where the air fuel mix can fire itself, ping is one example.
14.7:1 is the ideal balance between power and emissions.
Somewhere between 12.8-13.8 is the fine line for max power NA on a motor running under 10.5:1 compression ratio.
Somewhere between 12.3-13.5 is the fine line for max power forced air.

Whether the gas is oxygenated, high ambient air temps, high densities or high output temps is when you would go richer to use the fuel to cool the cylinder charge, but that isnt the only way, just the only ones you guys seem to know.
Now also if your truely just racing and nothing else where its WOT usage only, you may also run richer using high octane fuels and running maximum timing.
Also octane determines how the air fuel ratios are set. Low octanes will need less timing and richer conditions, high octanes will run leaner with more timing. If you can smell fuel, your running way to rich because the fuel isnt burning and if its not burning it doesnt take a rocket expert to figure out your adding more fuel than it can burn hence lower h.p. outputs.
Funny how professional forced air people and manufacturers that add turbos and superchargers always set them lean compared to your numbers without a problem. 5-8 lbs of boost and logging over 50K miles without a skip yet no one here on any board has made it even remotely close and always if tuning, tuning, tuning and asking questions about tuning, tuning, tuning and using these type recommendations. Wonder why they all have the same scenerio problems!

Dcaf-screw them and add the water injection I said. H.p. numbes will be much higher than they are now, run good balance air fuel ratios and wont have to run premium all the time and never have a problem. Oops, dam only pros do that, dont they!

[D-Caf]

Looks like some pretty nice numbers.... here's mine from a couple months ago.

Took it down to Sean with a dirty K&N drop in filter and a flowmaster 40 series with stock tailpipe.

Mine was one of the first S-Series, I think, Sean had done. The reason I got a print out of only 2 runs was because on the first one he had messed up (had to get used to a s-series compared to DSM). On mine the A/F ratio was done at the tailpipe just as they did on D-Caf's truck. The dyno looks a little goofy due to the stock tune (Torque Managment SUCKS balls! [explains why the numbers look a little low]).

Now, I have to take it down and see what kind of numbers I can put down. Was he cool with you wrenching on the truck in between runs?

Is Sean the guy with the long hair pulled back? If so then they were cool with me tinkering with stuff. I just paid for the three runs, and he lent me a screwdriver so I could pull the VR stack out for the second run. He probably would have let me use the programmer at the same time if I had remembered to bring it (he asked if I had it with me). I think next time I may just rent it for one hour and do some good tuning, check fuel pressure, get a good A/F ratio reading and see what can be really done. Looking at the curve of the graph and where the speed limiter kicked in, I think it was destined for at least 220 RWHP and I'm not complaining about over 250 lbs/ft of torque.

As for your dyno run, that looks pretty good, interesting that your A/F ratio has more fuel in it than mine did. Did you have any other mods beside the K&N drop-in and flowmaster muffler? If not then I'm guessing that the dyno run was pretty close to correct given I pulled only 162 HP with a full cat back, full K&N, a programmer, EGR mod and VR stack.

Either way, you need to go get it dynoed so we can compare it against mine, specially since your going to the same place I am (I'm impressed by they people over there, seem pretty cool and down to earth, not to mention damn good rates on Dyno runs).

[Maxx]

Thanks for the info about the VR stack. Now what about powerdyne TB spacer??

**Also Supercharged-ZQ8, where did you re-install your AIR TEMP SENSOR?
Comparision reasons...

And if you want the most power out of YOUR own truck, you need a custom tune.
Eg: LS1-Edit, Tunercat
Reason being not everone has the same parts installed. I know theres other reasons too but IMO thats the main one.

[Supercharged-ZQ8]

I removed the VR, just for GP. . . Haven't driven it yet, though. . . I'm wondering if it will be a noticeable difference or not. . . From D-Caf's dyno, it showed a 10 hp difference with and without, so it should be something that can be felt. . . MAYBE.

I installed mine in the spot provided -- there was a grommet specfically for it in the discharge elbow (if I remember correctly) -- I'll check when I get the chance and let everyone know.

[lamerboy]

Somewhere between 12.3-13.5 is the fine line for max power forced air.

Funny how professional forced air people and manufacturers that add turbos and superchargers always set them lean compared to your numbers without a problem. 5-8 lbs of boost and logging over 50K miles without a skip yet no one here on any board has made it even remotely close and always if tuning, tuning, tuning and asking questions about tuning, tuning, tuning and using these type recommendations. Wonder why they all have the same scenerio problems!


It really depends on the engine and octane fuel. You might be able to get 12.5:1 with a higher octane fuel before it knocks but try that same a/f ratio on 91 octane and it will knock. Richen it up to 11.5:1 and it wont knock anymore.
Never heard of anyone running 13:1 a/f ratio on a forced induction app even with 100+ octane fuel.

I have over 50,000 miles on my truck running 9-12 psi. Always went for a 11.6:1 a/f ratio on 91 octane and thats always what made the best power.

So who are these "professional forced air people and manufacturers" you are referring too? Heres some various responses I've found:

PHR:
"A good portion of the massive power comes directly from the fuel and its explosive force. Unlike leaded racing gasoline, nitromethane carries its own oxygen and requires a nearly equal 1.7:1 air/fuel ratio. Compare that to a gasoline-burning supercharged engine that will require a 11.5-12.0:1 a/f ratio".

Nitrous Express:
"Tuning for nitrous is no different than tuning any other power adder," says Nitrous Express. "When the air/fuel ratio is correct, the results are great; when the ratio is incorrect, the results are not so great." As to what constitutes correct A/F ratio, most recommend running slightly rich (generally, between 11.5-12.5:1), but agreement on this point is by no means universal, and some sources recommend going even richer under some circumstances. Musi believes in tailoring A/F ratios to the power level: "At 250 hp and under, you can run the same as the engine's air/fuel ratio. But at 450-500 hp I run 11.5:1 as a safety factor.

Edelbrock:
A/F RATIOCHARACTERISTICS
10-11 VERY RICH: Some supercharged engines run in this range at full power as a means of controlling detonation.
12-13 RICH: Best power A/F: Un-supercharged WOT.


5.0 Mustang Magazine:
"The regular around town setting uses a safe a/f ratio of 11:1 while the "shootout" setting uses a lean 12:1 a/f ratio which will give up to 20 extra hp but requires higher octane fuel".

All Ford Mustangs.com:
"The air fuel ratio should be around 11.5:1 to 12:1 under boost. Make sure your fuel system will support this."

[Sparky2263]

Gotta love sourced commentary. Good post lamerboy, rep points for you.

My nitrous runs around 11-1. Anybody wanna' argue with a 12.7 sec. stock motor Blazer? Didn't think so.

[94redSS]

damn 2 bad they dont make a s/c for my truck

[03 Rado]

Gotta love sourced commentary. Good post lamerboy, rep points for you.

My nitrous runs around 11-1. Anybody wanna' argue with a 12.7 sec. stock motor Blazer? Didn't think so.

You of all people should know better, but I guess thats why dealerships dont retain "your" great abilities.
Yeah Lingenfelters and the likes dont set up street machines meeting EPA specs running leaner as you say with no problems. Yeah factory vehicles with Turbos and Superchargers made by every manufacturer in the world mets EPA approval to sell these cars running 11:1 air fuel ratios and will stand behind the mandated 80K Federal Mandated Cat Warrenties. Let me just roll up another one real quick.
And those sources , oh just outstanding. Weekend warriors, aftermarket take your dollars and will say anything and people whom get paid to sell you **** via ad dollars. Yup I'd put my life into there hands!

[biglouie_underpressure]

Gotta love sourced commentary. Good post lamerboy, rep points for you.

My nitrous runs around 11-1. Anybody wanna' argue with a 12.7 sec. stock motor Blazer? Didn't think so.
oh geez sparky is pulling out the cool card :cool:

[bvr775]

THESE ARN'T RACE ENGINES. these are streetable GM setups that in most cases have to pass e-testing and be atleast compadable with emissions on the vehicle and get a fair mileage under everyday driveing conditions. That info may or may not work for a race car, but dosn't apply in this situation.


don't quote me ford numbers either that's a difrent setup than a chevy. i not going to get into it on this site but ford engines need to run run rich chevys need to run lean.

[bvr775]

missed this page...

yall chill.. It's gettign too heated.

[lamerboy]

THESE ARN'T RACE ENGINES. these are streetable GM setups that in most cases have to pass e-testing and be atleast compadable with emissions on the vehicle and get a fair mileage under everyday driveing conditions. That info may or may not work for a race car, but dosn't apply in this situation.


don't quote me ford numbers either that's a difrent setup than a chevy. i not going to get into it on this site but ford engines need to run run rich chevys need to run lean.

Emissions and normal everyday driving is not at WOT which would be 14.7:1. We are talking about WOT tuning. My truck N/A at WOT shows 12.3:1 a/f ratio from the factory.

And why would a chevy engine under wot need a leaner tune than a ford?

[lamerboy]

You of all people should know better, but I guess thats why dealerships dont retain "your" great abilities.
Yeah Lingenfelters and the likes dont set up street machines meeting EPA specs running leaner as you say with no problems. Yeah factory vehicles with Turbos and Superchargers made by every manufacturer in the world mets EPA approval to sell these cars running 11:1 air fuel ratios and will stand behind the mandated 80K Federal Mandated Cat Warrenties. Let me just roll up another one real quick.
And those sources , oh just outstanding. Weekend warriors, aftermarket take your dollars and will say anything and people whom get paid to sell you **** via ad dollars. Yup I'd put my life into there hands!

You will not burn out a cat from mid 11:1 a/f ratios. You will burn it out with 10:1 a/f ratios. Ask me how I know.

So what a/f ratio you run on your supercharged S10?

[Maximus]

Let's chill it down fellas.

[biglouie_underpressure]

13:1 does the job for me on 10psi non intercooled. sparky that 11.1 maybe be a little rich for that n20 you were shooting.......i just thought about something..how are you getting 11.1 on a dry 5.0 kit?

[biglouie_underpressure]

Let's chill it down fellas.
:confused:

[lamerboy]

Funny how the discussion was about what a/f ratio that would make the most power while allowing the engine to live the longest and now its turned into an emissions issue. lol.

[biglouie_underpressure]

Funny how the discussion was about what a/f ratio that would make the most power while allowing the engine to live the longest and now its turned into an emissions issue. lol. leaner is meaner plus i don't like to change plugs often.

[Sparky2263]

You of all people should know better, but I guess thats why dealerships dont retain "your" great abilities.
Yeah Lingenfelters and the likes dont set up street machines meeting EPA specs running leaner as you say with no problems. Yeah factory vehicles with Turbos and Superchargers made by every manufacturer in the world mets EPA approval to sell these cars running 11:1 air fuel ratios and will stand behind the mandated 80K Federal Mandated Cat Warrenties. Let me just roll up another one real quick.
And those sources , oh just outstanding. Weekend warriors, aftermarket take your dollars and will say anything and people whom get paid to sell you **** via ad dollars. Yup I'd put my life into there hands!

You wanna make a direct attack on me to deflect your idiotic statements? Fine, right back 'atcha. Everything I post I can back up.I have charts, pics, references, etc.

Everyone reading this look back at what's addressed here, WOT, WOT, WOT! No one tunes to run rich under all conditions, NO ONE!

Rado likes throwing out red herrings to deflect from the issue at hand. Why these direct attacks are allowed to stand,I can only wonder. Or is Rado just a re-incarnation of Obi-Wan as I am starting to believe.

As far as my employment goes, I own my own shop. Over a 20+ year career half of that time was dealerships and the other half was independents.

As one famous poster here stated, I back my **** up.

[LilYellowZQ8]

lets all just take a breath and chill out. This is just turning into a pissing contest and if everyone can't get along, then the thread will get locked. It has strayed too far from the original post by D-Caf. If someone wants to write up a tech article about A/F ratios and what is "perfect" for a given situation, then by all means go for it. Lets just end all of this drama.

[Joe]

You wanna make a direct attack on me to deflect your idiotic statements? Fine, right back 'atcha. Everything I post I can back up.I have charts, pics, references, etc.

Everyone reading this look back at what's addressed here, WOT, WOT, WOT! No one tunes to run rich under all conditions, NO ONE!

Rado likes throwing out red herrings to deflect from the issue at hand. Why these direct attacks are allowed to stand,I can only wonder. Or is Rado just a re-incarnation of Obi-Wan as I am starting to believe.

As far as my employment goes, I own my own shop. Over a 20+ year career half of that time was dealerships and the other half was independents.

As one famous poster here stated, I back my **** up.

I agree with sparky 100%, I too am in the auto buisness, I am a mechanic, so stfu.

[Maximus]

OK I see my advice went out the window with this thread's topic.So to keep this from going any further I am closing it.If anyone disagrees with this you cam pm me.