View Full Version : Complete Buildup
chesspirate
07-25-05, 06:33 PM
I'm thinking about shelving my S-10 and rebuilding it from the ground up. Completely, no joking. I want to take it down to the frame and go from there. The thing is, I need to make a game plan and count costs before I can get started (gotta check with my woman y'know).
I'd like the buildup to end with a finished product that is very close to what an S-10 would have looked like rolling off the lot in 1991. I said close but not identical.
First off, i'd like to make the frame stronger if possible and then put a good working suspension on. Nothing trick really, and just a 1/2 drop thats it, I'm not trying to go low, I just want it to look better.
After that for personal reasons I'd like to completely rebuild the 4.3. and add performance mods like the Edelbrock Intake manifold and cam, maybee some better heads, obviously new pistons and bearings etc. probably get the crank worked on etc. then back it with the same auto tranny (upgraded a little) and 3.73 gears. I think I can keep the rearend overall, no damge or bends I don't think.
Basically I'd like to start with new materials for the body, especiall the bed. I'm thinking about getting a complete Fiberglass front end, its a one piece deal and would remove a buch of weight from the frontend. And it would have a cowl to boot.
I'd like input, suggestions, price ranges etc. I want this to be fun, and this will be a ways off into the future, so if you have anything to say at all about this feel free, i'd love the input. Thanks
mrmidnight
07-25-05, 07:35 PM
start with the motor I say, get the big stuff out of the way ya know. shop summit, kragen auto, jegs, ebay. see what you can come up with
Maximus
07-25-05, 08:51 PM
The body ain't worth nothing if the heart doesn't work right.Sounds like a good plan to do.Just get as many part estimates as possible and go from there.
I've done a few frame offs.It dosn't matter if it's a model t or a s-10,, frame-off rods all cost the same, but if your heart is really into it no amount money will stop you
1st off you need an lmc catalog.
You go completly stock for around 5g, but you said you don't want stock so....
if you don't have a 4.3 I wouldn't stay with the original engine and tranny, but the cost of fuel and the fact the a 4cyl setup with cash in mind can compete v8s now I wouldn't go with a V8. you bigest thing is going to be the engine and tranny because of the cost(around 7g done right).You need to deside if you want stock power or hp. you can get a crate 4/3 for around what it would cost to complety rebuild a used one, but it's a stock configuration as for the tranny 4l80 will be a good upgrade.
a rolling chassis will cost around 2g-5g(boxing, lines, eletrical, supension) if you upgrade the rear end to something more sustantail your looking at around 1500 new.
body is the easy part. 1500 at the most in primer ready for paint(the price of paint will depend on you)
the interior will cost around 2g custom, around 500 stock.
keep in mind this is all farmed out work prises. you can cut this in half by doing the work yourself.on any vehicle A frame up is going to cost atleast 10-15g. You can find one less in perfect shape. you really need to thinck about this before tereing you truck down. Most people lose interest or run short of money and have a pile of parts they can get rid of. remeber the total amount of parts you can sell is actually worth less than a complete runnig truck.
now lets be relistic the trucks not that old so a frame-off is a little drastic unless you truck is completly rusted out. in this case find a rust free donor with good body panels(perferably complete)
the frame boxing can be done by removeing the bed sence the front part of an s frame is already boxed. some good leafs and spindles will get you down 2". a wire drill brush and a can of black rustolem will do wonders to a frame. chances are you brakelines and feul lines or in good shape. A rebuild and mild cam will do wonders for you engine. a 700r4 can be beefed up to take 400hp for about same cost as a rebuild.
you bigest price now will be body, paint and rims(around 4 gran).
8 grand for a nice truck is allot better than 15g for a truck that looks about the same.
replase what needs to be replased and go from there. the only reason to do a frame off is if you have a rust problem or a classic.
chesspirate
07-26-05, 01:37 PM
No real rust problem that i'm aware of, but I know the truck was in a small accident before I bought it, so some stuff in front doesn't match up perfect and i've cruedly tried to fix it with no progress. But I want to get in there and replace all of the bushings with new better ones, and yes i'd like to coat the frame and everything down low to protect it, and thats just it; i figure for 8-15g's i'll have as nice if not nicer truck than I can buy for that price if I do the rebuild right. The cheapest brand new chevy colorado STARTS at 15g and can get up above 28!!! Now $28,000 would make a nice truck!!!
On the motor, i want more than stock, thats why I was going to go with the Edelbrock intake and cam and maybee go up to the Holley Throttle body that is way bigger than stock.
overall though, I just like the idea of knowing what exactly is in my vehicle, knowing i did probably half of it myself, and knowing that overall I have a better truck than most.
Oh yeah, I've got and love the LMC catalog. They have everything!
if it was in a wreck the first thing you want to do is take it to a good frame shop and have it checked.
I know everyone said the engine is the most important part, but considering everything is bolted to the frame always start there. If it's not strait nothing is strait.
Also go to http://jcw.com they have engine rebuild kits, especially for the 4.3L AND some of their prices are better than LMC...I know, i've looked. Hats off to ya!
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