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Alright So I got my parts (2in spindles, 1in coils and a 4 in lifting block flipped to lower) now I can do my 3in fr and 4in back.
The only thing is I have never done this before. So what now??
What special tools do I need and How hard will this be? Does anyone have a good site on the procedure for this?
Sparky2263
11-20-05, 02:30 PM
Front Coil Springs Replacement
Tools Required
J 23028-01 Coil Spring Remover and Installer
Removal Procedure
Notice: Use care when handling the coil springs in order to avoid chipping or scratching the coating. Damage to the coating will result in premature failure of the coil springs.
Remove the stabilizer shaft link from the lower control arm.
Remove the shock absorber.
http://motoralldata.com/alldata/MOTOR~V27194300~C36289~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/86372027/86372028/87577258/87577260/34853741/34864218/34864722/34864832/34864867/94874527/92887124
Secure J 23028-01 to the end of a suitable jack.
Cradle the lower control arm bushings using J 23028-01.
Raise the jack in order to relieve tension on the lower control arm pivot bolts.
Turn the steering wheel to one side in order to allow the steering linkage to clear the lower control arm front pivot bolt.
http://motoralldata.com/alldata/MOTOR~V27194300~C36289~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/86372027/86372028/87577258/87577260/34853741/34864218/34864722/34864832/34864867/94874527/92887127
Remove the lower control arm pivot bolts and nuts.
7.1.Remove the lower control arm rear pivot bolt.7.2.Remove the lower control arm front pivot bolt.
Lower J 23028-01 slowly to relieve the tension from the front coil spring.
http://motoralldata.com/alldata/MOTOR~V27194300~C36289~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/86372027/86372028/87577258/87577260/34853741/34864218/34864722/34864832/34864867/94874527/92887129
Remove the front coil spring and the insulators. While removing the front coil spring, do not apply force to the lower control arm and/or lower ball joint.
Installation Procedure
http://motoralldata.com/alldata/MOTOR~V27194300~C36289~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/86372027/86372028/87577258/87577260/34853741/34864218/34864722/34864832/34864867/94874527/92887131
Install the front coil spring and the insulators on the lower control arm. Ensure that front coil spring covers all or part of one inspection drain hole. The other hole must be partly or completely uncovered. Rotate coil spring as necessary.
http://motoralldata.com/alldata/MOTOR~V27194300~C36289~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/86372027/86372028/87577258/87577260/34853741/34864218/34864722/34864832/34864867/94874527/92887124
Support the control arm using J 23028-01.
Position the coil spring and insulator in the upper spring seat on the frame.
Raise the lower control arm using J 23028-01.
Install the lower control arm to the frame.
http://motoralldata.com/alldata/MOTOR~V27194300~C36289~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/86372027/86372028/87577258/87577260/34853741/34864218/34864722/34864832/34864867/94874527/92887135
In order to maintain adequate steering linkage clearance, install the bolts in the direction shown.
Install the lower control arm front pivot bolt and the new nut. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Install the lower control arm rear pivot bolt and the new nut.
8.1.Tighten the lower control arm pivot bolts nuts with the front suspension loaded.8.2.Tighten the lower control arm front bolt to 115 Nm (85 ft. lbs.) .8.3.Tighten the lower control arm rear bolt to 98 Nm (72 ft. lbs.) .
Remove the J 23028-01.
Install the shock absorber.
Install the stabilizer shaft link to the lower control arm.
Check the front wheel alignment.
Sparky2263
11-20-05, 02:33 PM
There's the official method of removing the coil spring. A floor jack can be substituted for the special tool BUT, EXTREME care must be taken as the coil spring, compressed, stores enough energy to seriously harm and/or kill you.
I would seek out the help of someone who has done it before.
When the coil spring is out, the spindle becomes self explanatory.
The rear blocks didn't come with instructions? That's odd.
For the front, a pickle fork, and a spring compressor will be needed. For the back, a 1/2 inch socket with the proper size socket. You might need a breaker bar. To do the back, I believe that the axle is above the springs, With the truck securely on jackstands and the rear end supported with a jack, remove the 4 bolts on each side that hold the u bolts on. remove and discard the u bolts. jack the rear end up and place your blocks. Lower the rear end down, making sure to get the aligning pins in the correct holes. Use the U bolts that came with your blocks to re-secure the ubolts on. I am not sure on the torque specs. For the front. Support the front on jackstands. Remove the break caliper and using a bunjee cord or a coat hanger; hang it out of the way so that it isnt hanging on the brake hose. Remove the rotor by removing the dust cap and undoing the castle nut in there. Remove the castle nuts that hold the upper and lower ball joints on. Using the pickle fork (balljoint separator) and a hammer, un do the upper balljoint. Remove the shock, and put the spring compresssor on the coil spring. Remove the lower balljoint, and remove the tie rod end joint as well. At this point, the spindle can be removed. Using the spring compressor, compress your old spring to remove it. These can be very dangerous, people have been killed, treat it with respect. Once you have slowly removed the pressure off of the spring, use your spring compresor for your new drop spring. Replace your drop spring the same way you removed it. Transfer your bearings and rotor (good time to grease, and do a brake job, i.e. rotors turned and new pads) and re-assemble opposite of the way it came off.
This isnt a good writeup, but it will give you a general idea as of what to do.
I appreciate the help guys......I'll post pics when I get this done.
Ok So I went with a 3/4 and it came out pretty good. I also chopped my old exhaust of and made turn downs which sound Freakin sick! So what do you think..Im going to tint in a week or so and figure out the new paint scheme
Now for the next steps......
http://file004.bebo.com/large/2005/11/26/01/8394935a42508483b359446573l.jpg
Sparky2263
11-25-05, 09:26 PM
Looks awesome! How are the turndowns sounding?
Looks awesome! How are the turndowns sounding?
man if I knew how to post up sounds I would do it....In fact I might be able to figure it out.......Its pretty sick. 40 series flowmaster spittin the ground
Sparky2263
11-26-05, 12:22 AM
I got the sound pretty close than. My 40's just spit out the side in front of the tires.
Excellent.
20Xtreme02
11-26-05, 01:26 AM
Perfect ride height and tire/wheel combo to fill those wheel wells. Nice job!! Where would we be without Sparky??
Sparky2263
11-26-05, 01:30 AM
Where would we be without Sparky??
Credit those who have helped make this forum what it is. Here they are;
http://www.s10planet.com/forum/showgroups.php?
lowriderbowtie
12-01-05, 01:02 AM
just FYI
you do not need to use a coil spring compressor to take the front springs out, or put them in. all i ever used to lower s10's were basic hand tools ie: socket set, and a large hammer
Sparky2263
12-01-05, 08:26 AM
just FYI
you do not need to use a coil spring compressor to take the front springs out, or put them in. all i ever used to lower s10's were basic hand tools ie: socket set, and a large hammer
This is true. BUT, it takes a thorough understanding of what you are doing. I would not recommend it for someone doing it by themselves, for the first time and without understanding what they are getting into.
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