V8 Swap questions

[fastSdime]

Okay I have a 96 Sdime and I have a mild built 383 4 bolt main in my garage with a edelbrock performer manifold and edelbrock performer 750CFM carb on it. I already have the BeCool SBC Radiator and will order the Hedman Elite Hedders after Christmas. I know I still need motor mounts. But all the motor mounts say that its for a 2.8 or a 4.3 but my 96 has a 2.2 so what do I do there? And I know I'll need a E-fan. I want to use a manual tranny. And I know a lot of you are saying why use a carbed motor. This truck isn't going to be my daily due and I'm going to be deleted A/C out of it and anything else under the hood that I don't need there. I have installed a SB in a 1st gen but never a second gen. So what do I got to do to delete the computer and all that stuff that goes with the 2.2 to just have my truck carbed. I know a lot of you are going to say just get a camaro drivetrain but I'm on a budget and am going to build this whole truck myself in my garage. I went to school for automotive collision repair and automotive technology so I'm not scared to cut up the wiring harrness or anything else on my truck to get this done just need some help and some pointers. And I have heard that due to I have the 96 that its the bastard child when it comes to the computer so it will be easier to just carb it anyway. Sorry for the book just need some help..

[T Man]

You will need the 2.8 motor mounts and the engine mounts. You will have to bolt (or weld, im not sure) the motor mounts to the frame.

[fastSdime]

Okay that answers one of my questions what about the rest Tommy Boy...

[T Man]

Heres what I think with my less than expert knowledge. You are gonna need a fuel pressure regulator, to drop your fuel psi down to around 10. Right now, I believe it is in the 35-50psi range. As for the rest of the stuff. You shouldnt have a problem with pulling the computer. It isnt as incorporated into the truck as the 98+ trucks. You will need normal carbed engine wiring. Starter wire, coil wire, etc. Sending units shouldnt be a problem to wire up to the dash. I would ask sparky for a pinout diagram on the firewall wiring hookuup, so you can cut the engine harness and splice your own wires in there. That is about all I can think of right now off the top of my head. Im tired, gotta be in class in 7 hours. blah

[fastSdime]

LOL I got to be in class in 7 hours too.. I just think this will be easier then tryin to figure out what that knock is in my truck is making since the tree fell on it..

[T Man]

I think your knock is in the transmision. Possibly throwout bearing or a bent shift fork

[fastSdime]

Don't tell me what it is cuz then I will fix that and be to lazy to do the swap.. LOL

[rat]

The only problem i see with compleatly eliminating the computer is the gauges. Your speedo and such are controled by the computer. Eliminate the stock gauges, and use aftermarket ones and you are all set.

[Sparky2263]

Nothing wrong with a carbed sbc for sure. Like you said, much easier swap.

I'd go ahead and go with a high volume mechanical pump though. Take the fuel pump out of the way and extend the pickup to the bottom of the tank. I usually put in a tee with a restriction to the return line. No need for a regulator then. Usually maintains 5-6 psi with the Holley high output pump and with the return you keep a steady supply of cooler fuel to the carb. Eliminates any vapor lock also.

[fastSdime]

Well I'm going to use Autometer gauges I hate how the stock cluster looks anyway. plus I have a 2.2 with a stick and there was no tach.

A couple of more questions. Deleting all the computer stuff and ABS how would I go about still using the stock wiring for everything else in the truck like ignition, heat and stuff like that. Also I'm thinkin about keeping A/C how much more work is that I figure since I got rid of all the other wiring it wouldn't be to hard to just keep A/C.

Also I want to use a T5 tranny or whatever 5 speed that I can that has a good gear ratio in it. Not something like the S10s where when I hit 4th it feels like I hit a brick wall. How much work is in that? I'm going to keep the stock rear end till I can find a ford 9". I know to be nice to the stock on or it will die.

[fastSdime]

*Looks around for Sparky to answer his questions* :crossfing

[Sparky2263]

Lemme research that a bit.

[fastSdime]

Thanks man..

[fastSdime]

oh yea another question to add to this... What do most of you guys do for your exhaust. I'm going to be running the Heddman Elite Hedders and I was thinkin either a X or H pipe with prolly some magnaflows or something.. I will be using a fuel cell that will be mounted in the rear where the spare use to be so that will help and I will prolly box my frame and make a hole with a pipe thru to make it to where I can use camaro tips right under the body on the sides.. (Not a big fan of turn downs due to they blow up a lot of dust)

[T Man]

I would go with an H pipe

[fastSdime]

why a H over a X???

[fastSdime]

Hey Sparky did you find out any new info for me?

[Sparky2263]

As far as mounts, I don't have a 2.2 truck to look at. BUT, the same truck holds a 4.3 and the sbc swaps are a breeze, so I'd venture to say it ain't gonna be much of a problem. The 350 mount bolts to the frame and the bracket bolts to the block and I'm thinking you're gonna have a set of holes there to bolt the mounts to. When doing engine swaps, I generally take the opportunity to shove the motor back as far as possible and locate the mounts then. No that big a deal.

As far as wiring, you can use what you have. You won't be using any of the underhood ECM harness so you can dump that. Leave the ECM powered up so you can keep the speedo. Get a tranny with the output speed sensor (rather than a cable) and hook it back to the factory 2 wire sensor.

Coil can be powered up using the same hot that powers up the coil now. No biggie there. Re-use the temp and oil sender from the 2.2 in the sbc and keep the wiring there. Same with the alternator. Re-use what you have. It being a 4 banger, you'll be lengthening some wires and shortening others, but again, no biggie.

[fastSdime]

Well I plan on using Autometer gauges. So that means that I shouldn't need to keep the ECM because I don't think that its needed for the heat or A/C or am I wrong?

Also I was reading on V8S10 that the T-5 isn't good when using the shortie headers due to the slave cylinder. I really want a 5 speed cuz this is my truck that I drive and I'm not a automatic fan at all. So they were talkin about the NV3500 which I take is out of a newer fullsize truck is that usable on a truck that is carbed? and will it work with shortie headers?

[Sparky2263]

I would use long tube headers and not worry about the slave cylinder. The NV3500 doesn't shift as easily as the T5 (as far as grabbing gears) but that may not be an issue.

Either way, I wouldn't let working around a slave cylinder issue get in the way of parts selection. Who said it was supposed to be easy? ;)

The ecm is used to ground the A/C compressor relay. Easily gotten around by running the relay low through the low pressure switch and then grounding. You lose full throttle and full steering lock compressor dis-engagment but that's generally not an issue.

[fastSdime]

Well the only long tube headers I have seen for our trucks are the ones that wrap the last tube on the outside of the frame. And my tires are way to wide for something like that.

And with this ECM. I would only need some of the wiring off of it so I could hid it under the dash and cleanly run wires back in to the bay? And if I do that I might as well use my stock gauges huh? I mean I want my truck to be a sleeper kinda.. I mean I know its going to stick out due to the big rims and custom paint but most people know that a stock dime isn't that fast.

[alvisracn]

sounds to me you want to build my truck? check out these pics and it will give you some ideas. the dash is a norskog digital. all abs junk gone, i only removed the wires that was no longer needed and have working a/c. and it is a sleeper down to the single exhaust in the factory location other than being 3"

http://www.s10planet.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=&stc=1
http://www.s10planet.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=&stc=1
http://www.s10planet.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=&stc=1
http://www.s10planet.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=&stc=1
http://www.s10planet.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=&stc=1

[fastSdime]

Actually you hit it right on the head.. Thats the look I'm going for. Can you give me some more details about your truck?

[alvisracn]

Well it has a custom built 383 with edelbrock aluminum rpm heads, comp 274 cam, Holley 750 DP w/ mechanical secondaries carb, Holley mechanical fuel pump, ceramic coated shorty headers, serpentine belt setup from a 89 s-10 blazer, world class t-5 tranny with center-force dual friction clutch, Howe racing throw out bearing, pro 5.0 shifter, Hurst line lock w/ side winder shift knob, factory 7-5/8 rear w/ auburn posi w/ 3.42 gears, complete rear disc brake setup from a '94 camaro, stainless steel brake prop. valve, exhaust I made with 2 1/2 & 3" u-bends and j-bends and tig welded, flow-master scavenger "y" collector and flow-master 70 series big block muffler, it is a factory SS so it as the hop shock, rear sway bar and zq8 suspension I also installed bell-tech spindles and 2" blocks, norskog digital dash that I made a custom panel for after removing all the factory wiring and gauges that was no longer needed, cooling with a factory 89 S10 blazer heavy duty radiator moved forward to where a/c cond. was, a electric fan from a Volvo, the corvette rad. about the same I just already had this one, jtr motor mount plates with 2.8 rubber mounts, thats all I can thank of right now, but there is a lot other little stuff. any ? I will try to help

:eek: sorry so long, a lot to it

[fastSdime]

Can someone get me a towel please.. Yes you have what I'm tryin to build. I want to know more about ditchin all the computer & wiring BS.

[alvisracn]

Well the easiest thing to do is remove all of the wiring from engine compartment and cab. Not by cutting just remove, than follow the wires to everything and what you do not want cut out. I am not sure how much you have played with wires, but if you understand the basic's on what make's everything work ex...(turn signals, headlights, dome light...) need to know more about your swap and your understanding of wires, so this is just a summary I can give more advice if needed?:tophat_12

[fastSdime]

Well I went to school for Automotive Technology and Automotive Collision. I'm not scared of anything under there. This will be the first time I remove all that computer stuff I'm use to fixing it. The swap is going to be a 383 and hopefully a T56 tranny. I know how all the wiring in the cab is due to I have had my whole interior out once or twice before. And the motor has been out before too. So thats going to be the easy part. Guess the harder part is going to be wiring everything back up. And making sure it works right. I'm lucky and have the base model truck so there isn't any extra power stuff. What did you do about your heat and stuff? I'll ditch the A/C thats no big deal. Barely use it anyway.

[alvisracn]

Kept it all with factory wiring and heater core, little tight for heater hoses to heater core when using a hei, but it will work. If not keeping a/c and no power acc. it will be a breeze to do your swap. Just follow the wires you will have no problem.