View Full Version : rust
i have 2 trouble spots for rust, one is the front left fender, right where the fender flare is its completely rusted out, the only thing holding it together is paint, and on the back of my blazer over the exhaust pipe, it is practically a hole there. Any suggestions on what i should do? How much does it cost to get repaired, or can someone talk about do it urself things, i can get ahold of a welder and sheet metal, so please help.
1993blazerlt
01-26-06, 04:36 PM
your best bet is to get a replacment fender and for the rear corner JC whitney sells a repair pannel for tht area. I just finished major rust repair on my blazer and then painted it. I had to replace my rockers, lower door skins, both fenders, rear quarter and a few other small holes
blazemobile
01-26-06, 05:48 PM
On my 4x4, I had to replace a piece right above my exhaust pipe. JC Whitney does sell those patch panels but to replicate that curve isn't hard. How far up is the rust? Maybe post a pic? What I did is got a piece of sheet metal(from Lowe's) about 15"x12". Then I bent the curve into it and spot welded about every 2". I filled the seam with a light coat of bondo and it looked great. The bondo was undetectable since it was so thin. Also it was a repair job that only cost $12. I'll see if I can get you a pic of my work. Oh and make sure you eliminate all the rust otherwise it'll come back like cancer.
Maybe it was so easy for me since I fix wrecked cars.
Bring it down to tommys house of paint and body, ill help ya out. You could go to the scrap yard with a sawzall and try and cut out a patch pannel from a junk blazer then weld it in.
87 s-10v-8
01-27-06, 11:10 AM
i have a fender for sale
pics of rust spots: http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e366/BThomas1226/under2nddoorrust.jpg this one is under the 2nd door on driver side, about 4 inches long and really deep
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e366/BThomas1226/fenderrust2.jpghttp://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e366/BThomas1226/fenderrust.jpg this is driver side front fender, its basically rusted all the way around the flare.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e366/BThomas1226/exhaustrust.jpgand this is the bad one, on top of the exhaust tip, its all the way up to the trim and its just a big gaping hole now heres another pic close up http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e366/BThomas1226/exhaustrustclose.jpg
so yea i do like the 12 dollar fix, and i am a metalworker so sound fair enough, but how would i go about cutting out this rust spot, because i think it might be like way up into the fender? oh well thanks guys
T man you live like 120 miles from me so thanks anyways lol
and inless your fender is dam cheap, 89s-10v8 or whatever it is then im not gonna buy it, i dont want ot have to repaint anything yet, just want a quick fix.
Later i plan to take all metal parts off and replace with fiber glass/plastic and mold it out myself, complete custom i think that would be sweet.
blazemobile
01-27-06, 06:59 PM
That's what mine looked like....I took off the moulding and cut about where that chrome strip is on the moulding....I cut out all the way back to where it starts curving behind the bumper and stopped. When I had the piece cut out, I reached up into the quarter panel to feel for rust and there was only a little surface rust and I sanded it down the best I could. Then I sprayed all of the exposed inner quarter panel I could see with rust guard and I already told you about the welding and bondo. Hope you get it taken care of alright.
Dude, my buddy lives in OP, its only a little more than an hour drive. Im just kidding though, It took close to 2 months to get my bed to the level that Im happy with it. Now once the motor is odne, I will start on the front end.
KRUZER1
01-27-06, 07:53 PM
man im so happy that they dont salt the roads in seattle. I went to Minneapolis recently and its rare to see anything pre-85 cause everything rusts fast as hell. its a damn shame!
<-~Jo~->
01-27-06, 08:16 PM
you should see here in ottawa they have so much salt on the road that when you walk on the sidewalk you get a whiteyish wet stuff like if salt is so much in the snow that water is white when comin onto your shoes snow and ice skares the **** out of people here personnally i work on snow removal backhoe ... so i drive alot in it and im not skared at all whe had a 1 foot snow storm i was drivin 50 mph in the left lane with a swift all the cars and trucks where rolling about 20-25 mph at best .... anyways they should but sand instead of salt and calcium ... o yeah they also pourr liquid calcium ...
1993blazerlt
01-27-06, 10:03 PM
you can never kill rust by just covering it up. It would be cheaper to get a fender because even if you bondo it the rust will just come back rust normally runs about a inch farther under the paint then you can see. The rear quarter buy the patch pannel the pannel runs up to about the middle of the trim so you could even pop rivit it in place then put the trim back over it to hide them. but you will have to construct the reat of that on your own it is not that hard i had to do the same thing
blazemobile
01-28-06, 10:24 AM
I think you should get a fender too.....but just fix that bottom part of your quarter panel.
brockrooster
02-18-06, 08:52 PM
I am restoring a 1994 S10 Blazer Tahoe LT. Replacement fenders are one choice, but I chose to repair the fenders with metal patches and fiberglass. It is a time consuming process, but when I'm done it will look like new. My worst side is the drivers side and the passenger just needs small patches and touch up. The rear panel by the exhaust and the rocker panels also need to be patched and strengthed with fiberglass. After all my patches are made and fastened to the body, I use Bondo to get the rough coat down to a smoother coat. I have the Lund fiberglass running boards that extend up into the front and rear wheel wells, so it is important the I carefully measure and re-create my front wheel well that is only partially there due to rust. With new metal and fiberglass the Lund running board will fit fine. This work is not for the faint hearted or for someone with lots of money. I agree that the easiest way are replacement fenders and panels. But who says restoring a car is easy. It also is fun.
i got new exhaust, dynomax catback, nothing special, just a cheap replacement, i might get a better muffler for it later, hopefully flowmaster
jjwalker
03-02-06, 04:30 PM
Hah, when it ices over in Dallas the whole city shuts down completely. If it is just patchy they use regular sand on the bridges but none of that nasty salt and ****.
2 years ago it iced over bad in April (freaky ass texas weather). The whole city just came a complete grinding halt.
Jimmy91
09-07-06, 10:02 PM
I have had the same problem and on my old 91 jimmy I just bondo it and that only held up so long. On my new 91 jimmy I was able to use my brothers welder and we did his ram charger also. Anything is fixable it just takes time. Body work I beleive is the worst thing to do. Especially because I have a touch of ocd. Take your time buy alot of metal get the welder and cut all the rust out! Mine took a whole weekend, including paint, and mine was not that bad. Hope you get it worked out. Also you can cut bondo time in half using an air sander!
Don
Barry James
09-28-06, 03:33 AM
Blazers are known for their troubled spots (i found out) I live in California and i picked up a Blazer off of EBay that spent it's life in Salt Lake City, Utah.
I had to replace the fenders, doors and alot of metal work on the quarter panels but i think i got all the rust
vBulletin® v3.7.4, Copyright ©2000-2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.