subwoofer problem??

[sniper_moe]

I'm not exactly sure what is wrong i made a box that was sealed at the front of the woofer and the back was ported.. i used the woofer for about 5 min and the protect light came on on the amp.. i took the sub out of the box and when you push the cone in and out it sounds as if it's scraping on a coil.. any idea what is wrong? i want to know so i can call the company and say what's wrong so that they can tell me if they can fix it or not. Thanks.. any response will help.

[T Man]

is it a dual voice coil or a single. If it is dual, you probably had it wired wrong...the ohms were too low. Anyway you cut it you smoked your sub.

[mrmidnight]

Nice copper smell and scratchyness, I miss the burnt copper smell

[sniper_moe]

it was wired right though.. that's what i don't understand.. i had the front of the sub sealed so could it be to much pressure causing the insides to screw up? i smell something but i think it's just the board i used..

[91_4_door]

what tman said.

[T Man]

it was wired right though.. that's what i don't understand.. i had the front of the sub sealed so could it be to much pressure causing the insides to screw up? i smell something but i think it's just the board i used..


Your box isnt your problem. Sealed v ported doesnt refer to which side the hole is on, although it sounds like you had a poorly setup box to begin with. Ill try and keep this to cliffnotes, and andre will surely chime in and help me out where i post erronous information.

Sealed means the entire box is sealed. Subwoofers wont break due to "pressure" inside the box, period. Ported refers to the box having a 'tuned' port or hole in it with some sort of device to "scavenge" off the backside of the sub, usually a piece of plastic or cardboard that looks like a papertowel roll inside. THe size of the hole and the length of the tube affect which frequency the box is built for. This is why so many people run sealed boxes, there is no tuning involved. For everyday boxes, sealed is the way to go unless you know what you are doing when you are porting a box. IF you know how to properly port the box FOR THE SUB YOU ARE RUNNING then you are going to have an inherently harder hitting system at a certan frequency than you would with a sealed box, but because so many people buy a box that is ported and buy a sub not designed for that port, they sound like crap, thus giving them their bad rap. The way you wire your sub plays another major factor into how loud your system will be. For instance, we will take my old setup. It was a JL10w3 dv2 wired to a MTX 275xw. Sub background: Its a 10 inch sub (JL10) w3 refers to the model number (w0= entry level, w=3 next step up, w6=almost top of the line, w7=top of the line hardest hitting sub avaliable from JL) the dv2 refers to the voice coil. DV (dual voice coil) 2 (2ohm stable) With a dual voice coil you will have 4 sets of places to hook wires up to on the sub. Changing this will produce better or worse results. I had mine in paralell, thus dropping the ohm down to 1 ohm. I then had my system bridged at the amp (1/2 ohm of resistance through the entire ststem) Was this bad on the sub, definatley, evidenced by me blowing it 3 months after buying it. I then put in a single voice coil w0 and havent blown it since my system is sitting at 1 ohm. The lower the ohm number, the harder it is on the amp. With out knowing what you were running, its hard to say how it went wrong. The sub is blown...the voice coils have welded themselves together, thats why you feel that scraching. Why this happened could be a number of reasons, but my guess would be that you simply overpowered it. If you would post up what amp (and a few specs if youve got em) and the sub (same as amp) we can help you out so that this doesnt happen again. If you did overpower it, i would say it was related to your box design. It wasnt loud enough (i.e. hitting hard enough) so you kept turning it up until it would pound like you wanted it to, then you fried your ****!

[T Man]

Wow, ****ty cliffnotes.

[fastSdime]

I'm not exactly sure what is wrong i made a box that was sealed at the front of the woofer and the back was ported.. i used the woofer for about 5 min and the protect light came on on the amp.. i took the sub out of the box and when you push the cone in and out it sounds as if it's scraping on a coil.. any idea what is wrong? i want to know so i can call the company and say what's wrong so that they can tell me if they can fix it or not. Thanks.. any response will help.

Okay I won't start on the box. But "IF" the box is built to specs then thats not the problem. But without knowing what kind of sub & amp combo your running and how you wired it I can't help you. But your running the sub in a bandpass box which is no big deal at all. I use to run 2 Kicker 12s in my ranger like that pounded harder then damn near everyone I knew and I had less then 400 in my stereo. But if your using cheap equipment your going to get cheap results and if your box is built cheaply and has any type of air leak or anything like that it will cause distortion which intern is what blows your sub not power rating. You will know when your wattage blows your sub because most likely it will freeze and anyone that goes to stereo comps and stuff know what I'm talkin about. But get some details of what you have. What your were playing how new is your stuff? Did you give it break in time and so on and so fourth. So all in all you BLEW the sub. Why I dunno till I get more info.

And Tommy PLEASE put some cliffnotes on that because I didn't read any of that.. LOL

[T Man]

Obviously.

And that was the cliffnotes

[fastSdime]

those cliffnotes are gay then.. LOL

[baggedandcaddied]

hey tom i dont think that you are at 1 ohm because i dont think that JL made a 1 ohm W0

[T Man]

You are right. Its an 8 ohm sub bridged=4ohm. My mistake.

[sniper_moe]

OK here is what i'm running.. it's a Rockford Fosgate P3001 Amp pushing an 10 inch Alpine Type-S the specs for the Sub are 300W RMS dual coil nominal impedance 4omh +4omh. Amp is 250W RMS @ 4 omh or 401 @ 2 ohms.. eee... i think i might know the problem. I think the amp was hooked up for 2 ohms and the sub for 4

[sniper_moe]

what would be better 2 or 4 ohms.

[CitizenLame]

Hmmm, your amp specs are interesting because RF rates the P3001 at 150 X 1 @ 4 ohm and 300 X 1 @ 2 ohm.

Now is that P3001 a dual post mono amp or a single post mono amp (meaning is there 1 + and 1 - or are there two sets of +- posts)? Because if it's a single post then you should have 1 wire going f the + on the amp to each of the + terminals on the sub, then 1 wire going from the - on the amp to both of the - on the subs. Now if it's a dual post sub amp then you want to hook up the +- on the "right" to one of the +- on the amp, then the +- on the "left" to the opposite +- on the sub.

Get that? You can't hook up an amp for 2 ohms and a sub for 4, that makes no sense.

[CitizenLame]

Also, yes you CAN use a ported box with a TypeS but I wouldn't do it. Never heard one sound good. And I don't know where you came up with the design for the box you used. It's unique and definately interesting, but I'd use just an open faced sealed enclosure if I were you.

[sniper_moe]

ya i thought i had it put both on 4 ohms but apparently now.. it's a two set post and the ported sounded better for mine.. i use to have a regulat box in my truck but i just got two new bucket seats and thie box fits in better.. in the pics above the first one on the left can i have the design like that of should i leave to board off it

[baggedandcaddied]

well you will get more power at 2 ohm

[sniper_moe]

ok now that i got all figured out what kind of sub would you recommend.. i want a 10" that can handle 400RMS at 2omhs

[T Man]

JL 10w3

[sniper_moe]

for the JL 10W3, it has a power handling (cont) of 300 W is that rms? with my amp would i want the D2 or D4.. i want as much as possible without blowing the sub again. I want 400 RMS @ 2ohms if possible
W3V2-D4 wired in parallel can get 2 ohms but will my amp blow it?

[fastSdime]

I would say a JL10W6v2 would be your best bet. I will look around and see what else is out there and hit this thread back. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=6

[T Man]

I think hes got a standard cab, so space would be a HUGE limiting issue for the w6, thats why i didnt suggest it

[sniper_moe]

space is a big deal but i still have half a sheet of mdf in the garage.. with the new bucket seats i have room in the middle.. if you look at the pics on the first page you can see how the box is now.. the mag on the sub goes between the seats.. if i can get a good sub that will work and now have to worry about blowing then i'll make it fit.. i'll just have to make 4 small new sides for the box

[T Man]

If you can afford the w6 go with it. If not, go with the DV4 w3 and wire it in series. Even at 4 ohms you will still rattle your glass. Unlike some companies, Jl underrates their subs instead of overrating them.

[sniper_moe]

ok thanks alot i'll check it all out.. try and find somewhere that sells them and then get what ever i can afford

[CitizenLame]

Since you're only putting out 300rms at 2ohm with that P3001 then the Alpine Type S will still work for you.

[baggedandcaddied]

i had over 1500 watts going to two little 10 W0's and they lasted over a year of constant abuse. Now i have a blow through

[sniper_moe]

it's 401 at 2 ohms and 250 at 4 ohms

[CitizenLame]

it's 401 at 2 ohms and 250 at 4 ohms

Where are you getting that info from? I've never seen those specs except from you.

[fastSdime]

Where are you getting that info from? I've never seen those specs except from you.

I agree with him even the RF site says 150 @ 4 and 300 @ 2 even linked it for you.

http://rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=2&series_id=6&family_id=19&item_id=91949&locale=en_US

[sniper_moe]

ya i know that's why i though my sub would be ok but the one i just bought has those specs... i got it from the spec sheet that came with it.. here's the spec sheet

[fastSdime]

one big difference is your truck probably doesn't run at a constant 14.4 volts.

[CitizenLame]

Yeah "born on" sheets are totally unreliable. YOu'll probably never see the power ratings they tell you your amp tested at.

[sniper_moe]

Ok so i should go with a 300RMS sub for my amp at 2 ohm's and not worry?

[CitizenLame]

300 rms per voice coil on a dual 4ohm coil sub, yes.

[sniper_moe]

so the alpine type s is a good choice for my amp? is there anything better with the same power that's around that price? I like the alpine but if i can get better thats a different name or somehting then even better.. any suggestions will help.. thanks

[sniper_moe]

i know the JL was suggested but i is there any difference? and is there better?

[T Man]

jl!!!!!!!!!!

[sniper_moe]

ok.. I guess JL it is :P now hopefully i can find a place to buy one