Updating brakes for V8 power

[T10_Sport]

I have a 1983 ext cab s15 which has no air booster just the brake cylinder. I need to know how hard it's going tobe and what all is involved to install a stock ABS setup from a 86+ truck :confused: I'm going with a mild 283 H.O, 4.3 5spd, & after owning an 82 with a stock auto 305 ...... I personally know it won't stop worth a damn without the abs setup (gradually slowed down & the weight of the motor basically pulled & slid right through a redlight = adrenaline rush & Not Fun :irked_125)

[Sparky2263]

ABS is not necessary for quicker stops. Neither is a power brake booster, you just have to step on the pedal harder to acheive the same fluid pressure.

Don't get me wrong, a brake booster certainly makes it easier. I just wanted to be clear on whether it's necessary.

The best thing you could do with your set-up to decrease braking distance is a rear disc set-up from a late model S-10/Blazer. You'll be quite amazed at the results.

[T10_Sport]

ABS is not necessary for quicker stops. Neither is a power brake booster, you just have to step on the pedal harder to acheive the same fluid pressure.

Don't get me wrong, a brake booster certainly makes it easier. I just wanted to be clear on whether it's necessary.

The best thing you could do with your set-up to decrease braking distance is a rear disc set-up from a late model S-10/Blazer. You'll be quite amazed at the results.

I understand that entirely but the ? is this ~> don't most of the newer model trucks (Let's say 94+) which may have the rear disc brakes still use the ABS:confused:
Also I thought most people get their rear disc brake setups from things like camaros & etc when they change the rear end/differentials because the newer models still didn't get them? I'm not looking right now to get really expensive with the project because of cash flow & with winter coming around .... it's tough fighting the weather (usually a losing battle) to score parts.

[D-Caf]

Ok, here is my take on what you can do to improve braking. This is listed from what I think it the most bang for the buck to most buck..

1. As sparky said swap out one of the rear drive shafts from a late model S10/Blazer that had a disc brake setup. You can find these easily enough in junkyards or ebay. I don't know what years they started in, but the 4x4 Blazers had them in '98 (though that will be a different width rear end than your truck I believe). You don't have to have working ABS to use them, they will still work and provide an improvement over your drum brakes.

2. Get wider tires that have a bigger contact patch. The larger your tires contact patch with the ground, the greater it's resistance to skiding and lockup will be. Also get tires with better grip.

(The next two I'm not really sure which is the less expensive when you factor in fabing costs vs purchase costs)

3. Install ABS and/or powerboster. The ABS will make it much easier to stop faster with less concentration on your part. You may sacrifice some precise control over your brakes, but I believe the anti-locking benefits far out weigh that. I also think the powerbooster would be a big benefit. In my opinion it makes it much easier to finess your brake action. Instead of having to use more muscle to push that brake down, you can focus on controlling more on how much pressure you want to use. Though it doesn't make up for all the loss of exact control of braking that ABS takes away, it makes it much easier to ride the edge of ABS in my opinion.

4. Larger rotors and calipers up front (tires with larger contact pads are a must for this, and ABS/Powerbooster is highly recommended). I've done this to my blazer (which already has ABS/Powerbooster, and larger contact patch stickier tires) and it made a big difference. Your front brakes and tires still handle the majority of your braking needs, and it's very noticable when you increase the braking strenght upfront. There are several junkyard swaps/fabs you can do (Corvette, etc..) and off the shelf kits like SSBC (like what I did).

[Hammer Head]

just because it has ABS doesn't mean you can't still use the rears. It only means you won't have ABS if you don't already or are going to retro-fit the ABS.

[T10_Sport]

BINGO hammer head .... I had intentions of retro fitting the ABS but I needed to know basically what all I need, how to go about it, & also added info the 283 H.O will be fuel injected (TBI) so the ecm (from a 92 350 1500 silverado) which will work the ABS will be functional. I'm pretty sure after looking @ it earlier that it'll involve unbotling just about everything under where the dash was:(. Anyways any advice can potentially help :cool:

[nomaboy]

i think abs uses a different control module, seperate of the ecm...

[T10_Sport]

Yeah it uses this 1" thick or so little black computer right next to the air boosters on the 2.8s & 4.3s that have two computer plugins which I think work off the ecm:confused:. I had planned on using an entire 4.3 tbi harness, a 350 tbi intake, and everything that's usable/swapable from the 4.3. I just basically need to know how to go about it now on the brakes befor the motor is in it. I pretty much know it "can" be done just not exactly how hard or complicated or where to start off on doing it.
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[Sparky2263]

What you are referring to is RWAL. It is an abs unit for the rear wheels only. Really not worth messing with.

[nomaboy]

why not just stick some 98 and up blazer spindles, rotors and 2 piston calipers in the front and be done with it. these parts are all very accessible as 98 and up blazers are everywere.

[Hammer Head]

ABS retro '86 stuff to '83, right? ECM, ABS sensors, need the trans to output the digital signal (VSS) & then swap to a digital dash set up (these all go to the ECM), & lastly, if I'm thinking right.. the wiring harness. I'm not 100% on this but this is just what I'm thinkin. I have an ECM from a '92 Astro, 4.3, 700R4 & ABS.. should be the same ECM.