Popping

[Chrisvich]

I saw an old thread about popping under full turning to left or right. Did anyone every figure out what that was all about? And if it is ball joint and bushings....how difficult are they to replace and what kind would you recommend?

[D-Caf]

I've actually got a popping (or clunking) under full turn sometimes. Turns out it was a combination of warn wheel hub bearings and lower ball joints. Not sure which did it to the other, but one probably hastened the demise of the other.

Anyways, got the new wheel/hub bearings in, but going to have to take it to a dealer I trust to get both lower ball joints fixed. They are rivited in, so you have to drill them out then bolt on the replacements. This is one of those instances where I'll have the certified GM guy take care of it. It ain't cheap but I'll trust this more than doing it myself. Hopefully I have it in on Thursday and back by Friday or Saturday. I'll let you know how it goes.

Lots of front end work this week for me... But shoot I'm at 120k miles, probably about time...

[Mikz86TA]

On a 4x4 the hub/bearings could be the culprit like D-cafs, but on a 2wd its a different setup. I assume youve checked the tires for contact with ground effects lip, inner fender rub or contact anywhere else. Check lower ball joints. Easiest way in the driveway is to jack the truck up by the frame with the tire off the ground 5-6inches. Put a prybar under the tire to get leverege and pull up on it under the tire. An assistant to look under at the a-arm ball joint helps to see if the tire/wheel moves significantly B4 the a-arm does. It is also possible to 'feel' it while moving bar up/dn.

[87wildside]

Ball joints.

[Chrisvich]

If it ends up being ball joints....Is that something that the dealer should take care of like D-caf said being that there is drilling involved.

[87wildside]

The uppers on the 2WD are riveted and the lowers are pressed. Just drill out the rivets and bolt the new part in to the supplied torque specs. The lowers you can rent or buy the tool to press them out/ in. I see no reason to send it to the stealership.

[Mikz86TA]

**DITTO**

[electro]

ok i have a friend with the same problem... does anyone know the drill bit size to drill out the rivets on a s-10?

[JONGO8]

I changed upper and lower on mine. They were easy to do. I used my air chisel on the rivites. They poped right off. When done no popping sound any more. Man I'm drunk. It's only 6:46 PM and I'm drunk......

[boxcarracer963]

Man I'm drunk. It's only 6:46 PM and I'm drunk......
lol that was random it made me laugh

[Mikz86TA]

hahahaha X2. BTW, the new ball joints should have a sheet to tell you what bit to use.

[electro]

i need a beer

[87wildside]

It's 1/4" I think. Just drill or grind the heads of and drive them out with a punch. Don't F up the holes in the control arm.

[JONGO8]

Man I'm drunk

[87wildside]

Is Lee over there?

[JONGO8]

No, But if he is on his way I.m on the last beer......

[87wildside]

He can stop and get more...haha

[JONGO8]

Yea that would be good.... I'm looking at the rum now. How will it tast in mountan dew?

[Mikz86TA]

Should tast good. Add a little milk for vomitsuprise! hehehe

[12sws27]

I saw an old thread about popping under full turning to left or right. Did anyone every figure out what that was all about? And if it is ball joint and bushings....how difficult are they to replace and what kind would you recommend?
mine pops when i take a hard right in a parkin spot. and 4 me its the center link and pitman arm. lower ball joints on mine r ez 2 check. mine is a 00 2wd blzr. haynes says to check lower ball joint look at the grease fiting , the shoulder as they call it or what looks to me is the little hex part for tightening should " protrude 0.050-inch from the surface of the cover. as the joint wears, this shoulder moves up into the balljoint assembly; if the shoulder is flush with the cover, or is up inside the hole, replace the balljoint". thats quoted from haynes. i would assume that its correct.

[ArticWolf]

Well, I had the same problem on my truck. It was a clunking/popping when you turn into a corner or hit a bump pretty hard, I deliver newspapers so go figure. Mine is 4x4 and ball joints were a costly repair but when I got my truck I had to replace all 4. The hub bearings are still good too "I'm not saying y'all are wrong", but the torsion bar mounts were bad on mine.

The left side was bad I changed the mount and it still did the noise so when I got my next paycheck I bought another mount and changed the right side, now the noise is gone so this could also be causing the problem if you have a 4x4. To check the mounts you will have to go under the truck just behind the t-case there is this cross member looking thing that the torsion bars go into, push up on the torsion bar and see if the bar moves, if it does the mount is bad.

The mounts are not hard to change. The bolts on the frame are 15mm and the nut on top of the torsion bar cross member is 18mm. 1st, Take the top nut off. 2nd, Take the two bottom bolts out. 3rd, Using a small jack lift the cross member "Don't worry nothing is going to fly out" 5th, Slide the mount out. 6th, Replace with the new mount. (The rest is reverse of removal) Depending on how patient you are it takes about 15 to 30 minutes per side. The passenger side might be a little harder if you get an OEM part get the one that comes with new bolt's and instead of a stud on top there should be a bolt.

Just a rule of thumb replace both mounts at the same time, The mounts also keep the front end from sagging or leaning into corners (Body Role) "Not for sure though" The mounts cost me about $27 a piece at Car Quest. Auto Zone here in my town can't get the mounts and the stealer ship wants too much for the mounts. Any way my truck handles alot better on the corners at higher speeds. :D I hope this helps you, If not and others Do have the same problem as me remember this post it might help others LOL:p

[warrior86]

hey man, sorry to bring back on old post, but let me explain my situation. I get a popping/clunking noise under my floorboard. Its almost feels/sounds as if someone is directly under my floorboard knockin it was a 3/4" rachet. It happens if i cut the wheel to the right very fast or if i hit a decent bump. When i go under the truck, i can bend both bars. Is that what you mean? Or are you saying to see if there is any play inside where the bar meets the mount? Cause if i put leverage on the bar close to where it meetst the rear mount, i can move it. Something else may be wrong as well cause im hearing some noise come outta my wheel.

[ArticWolf]

Yea that is pretty much what I meant, I would check and replace if needed the torsion bar mounts. ( but replace in pairs) In reference to the noise coming outta your wheel, it might sound stupid but if your front shocks haven't been changed the little rubber mount that is on the bottom of the shock might have came out of the shock and the shocks should be replaced which might give you your noise.