SES code 410

[blazer2k1]

Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction-
Cause: Under high engine speed and load conditions, hot exhaust gasses may leak past the air check valves. As the exhaust gasses in the air tube cool, water vapors collect into the AIR pump. As the vehicle is driven, condensation from the AIR pump may come into contact with the Mass Airflow Sensor through the AIR inlet hose. This condition may cause a hesitation on acceleration and may also set the DTCs.

Has anyone successfully 'dried out' the system without the code returning? Sounds like I would have to replace the air check valves but from what I've read I may have to replace the pump. Havent checked the pump yet to see if its still functioning and I also think theres a fuse behind the battery that can be blown that I havent checked but was wondering how some of you fixed this problem so I can cover all bases.

[DROPPEDGMC]

just take the AIR system out :)
but im sure if you clean it, it will be ok

[blazer2k1]

Thought about that. But can I just remove the pump and plug holes without the ODBII freaking out and the SES light on all the time? I've read that early to mid 90's Impallas and Buicks had this pump and GM listed how to remove it (found it did nothing to improve emissions... go figure) but required the ECM to be recalibrated. Not sure if its the same case here.

[OBI WAN]

AHHHH. Where did you get that troubleshooting note???
First if the check valves leak, YOU"LL KNOW, it'll make a very loud exhaust leak sound in the front end.

Second there is a tech bulletin that says to make the hose longer and move the hose near the firewall so it wont have a chance to pick up rain water etc, which is alot of why it codes.

Air pump moisture WILL NEVER come into contact with the MAF. It cant, 2 compete seperate systems and locations!!

OK thats outta the way, round 2.
Can you clear the code and have it stay gone for some time before returning. If you can the fuse isnt blown and its rare that this is the case.

ARE YOU RUNNING A 180 STAT?????

When it codes is it shortly after youve restarted it up after making some sort of a pit stop????

Answer those and will go on!

[blazer2k1]

AHHHH. Where did you get that troubleshooting note???
First if the check valves leak, YOU"LL KNOW, it'll make a very loud exhaust leak sound in the front end.

Found it at http://www.impalassforum.com/tech/engine/air_pump/air_pump.htm
Well its not a check valve. No loud exaust sounds from the front.

Second there is a tech bulletin that says to make the hose longer and move the hose near the firewall so it wont have a chance to pick up rain water etc, which is alot of why it codes.

So will I have to remove the pump to dry it out?

Air pump moisture WILL NEVER come into contact with the MAF. It cant, 2 compete seperate systems and locations!!

Ok just tring to figure out whats going on.

OK thats outta the way, round 2.
Can you clear the code and have it stay gone for some time before returning. If you can the fuse isnt blown and its rare that this is the case.

Had the code cleared and stayed gone for a little over a week. So that rules the fuse out. But for future refence wheres it at?

ARE YOU RUNNING A 180 STAT?????

Nope stock stat.

When it codes is it shortly after youve restarted it up after making some sort of a pit stop????

Coded after a 25 minute drive the 2nd time. Dont remember how long I was driving the first time.
The only mod I made was to the throtle body. Removed the restrictor and JB Weld the holes. But that was 6 months ago so I dont think thats an issue.

[OBI WAN]

MInes throughs one every so often so thats why the stat question. I have a theory as to why with a low temp stat, but thats not your case.

The pump should ry out on its own fairly quick. The problem in the stock location of the tube is its off to the side of the rad, near the battery. The fan for one splashed water around after a rain and the tube can pick it up. Also being where it is even driving water splashes under the vehicle and mists and the tube picks it up. The bulletin refers to addint line so that you can run it near the firewall where for the most parts it stays allmost dead dry.

Now once these things get water in them many times then begin the freeze the bearing inside up so when it cools, it hangs. If it doesnt start when commanded or close real quick it'll set the code. Also when the check valves hang it'll do the same thing. One thing you can try to do it spray a rust remover cleaner into the pickup hose and when it cycles it may remove the crude built up. If it codes then, dont worry the 02's make pick this stuff up and set one.

As far as the fuse, I cant say really since I never went looking. But it seems to me if it has the underhood fuse command center it would be in there and not behind the battery like some say. I am allmost positive that was and inline fuse, inside the inner fender , behind the battery on the older 00 and down that didnt use the fuse command center.

Its not due to mods, so dont worry there. It could be its coming to its life end. These things arent known to last all that long due to the poor pickup location, but once fixed and moved there fine.

Do you pay to have the codes cleared, or do it yourself??
DO it yourself, turn key on, dont start it, pull batt and ecm fuse, turn key off, replace fuses and restart it. It'll idle rough iuntil it learns the idle stage for a few minutes, this is normal!! That way if you run cleaner through it a few times and it codes, then you dont run around trying to have the code cleared and it may free itself!!

[blazer2k1]

The problem in the stock location of the tube is its off to the side of the rad, near the battery.

Let me guess it looks like a 1/2 inch tube thats turned down on the left side (looking down on) of the radiator? Was wondering what the hell that tube was for. I'm always kind of suspicious of tubes that go nowhere. Figured GM would have stuck some kind of breather on it to prevent this kind of stuff.

Now once these things get water in them many times then begin the freeze the bearing inside up so when it cools, it hangs. If it doesnt start when commanded or close real quick it'll set the code.

Doesnt look too bad to get to. Either have to remove the shroud (maybe fan too) from the top or the plastic covers below to get to it. I wonder if I pull the hoses off and put 12v to if I can test to see if its running (hear it hum or feel to see if its pumping air) instead? Might save me from having to spray anything in there and fowling up the O2 sensor.

As far as the fuse, I cant say really since I never went looking. But it seems to me if it has the underhood fuse command center it would be in there and not behind the battery like some say.

Agree. The only thing I saw behind the battery (quick look) is what looked like a relay right next to the horn.

Its not due to mods, so dont worry there. It could be its coming to its life end. These things arent known to last all that long due to the poor pickup location, but once fixed and moved there fine.

One thing I may try is cutting the hook out of that hose and extending it up about a foot. Then use a valve cover breather to plug the hole. Water or anything else besides air should have a much harder time getting in.

Do you pay to have the codes cleared, or do it yourself??

Buddy of mine at Goodyear told me the code and cleared it for me for free. Second time the 'counter technician' at Advanced Auto pulled the code but didnt clear it.

DO it yourself, turn key on, dont start it, pull batt and ecm fuse, turn key off, replace fuses and restart it. It'll idle rough iuntil it learns the idle stage for a few minutes, this is normal!! That way if you run cleaner through it a few times and it codes, then you dont run around trying to have the code cleared and it may free itself!!

Hmmm... didnt think about pulling the batt fuse. Thanks for all your help!

[OBI WAN]

I actually ran mine under the battery with a filtered end on it.
You could test it using a 12 volts jumper.
I do think its runs though since at warmup and also WOT it when its running and should code then if it didnt. The one while moving is a self test to see that it is either working, or its moving enough air. The ECM commands it on for a little bit, then off and looks at the 02 sensors to see how it functioned!

[blazer2k1]

Just an update to this problem. Well after sticking a breather on the hose and resetting the code a week later the same code comes back. Today I pulled the pump out (pretty simple really) and dumped half a quart of water out of it. I removed the cover and dried it out with a hair dryer then pluged it back up to the connector (with the cover off), started the engine and nothing. Unplugged it and hooked up directly to 12v from the bat. and nothing. So the pump is dead. Just dont know how that much water could accumulate in there. Anyway, anybody know how much one of these pumps cost?

[OBI WAN]

Junkyard one of ebay it. These arent cheap from what Ive heard, like $200+!!

[blazer2k1]

Did a little research and found it online at one place for $109

https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mfr,ACDELCO,EMISSION,4920,AIR+PUMP

A quick search on Advanced and Auto Zone dont carry it. So its either, like you said Jedi, Ebay, junkyard or GM.

[OBI WAN]

Dont quote me on this. I made a call and the $200 is for the whole shabang, check valves, pumps and hoses. The Air pump itself I was told runs around $90!!!