Mikz86TA
10-28-07, 02:14 AM
Well, its been way too long since I really gave the Dime a good detailing. I had some spare time in the afternoons this week and decided to halt the finishing of the 700R4 rebuild and detail the truck.
I started with a good wash job using ArmorAll Wash gel. It works good. Its one of the few I like to use.
I assesed the water as it dried/runs off after rinsing. When it beads up, you know you have a good wax cote. If it has a slight bead, than its time to wax or polish and wax. If it sheets, then its time to do the full treatment. You could just add the wax, but why cover up dirt in the paint.
Mine wasnt doing so hot.
I used some 3M Heavy Compound for Dark paint on some areas. Just basically clearcote scuffs and whatnot.
Then I went over those same areas, but broader coverage with some 3M FinseseIt Light Compound. This is for 1500 grit and finer scratches and will smooth outy the cutting by the heavier compound. Usually this is where I start. But there was some places that needed the Heavy Comp treatment.
Next I used some 3M PerfectIt Polishing Pad Glaze #39009 for Dark paint. This glaze is used to smooth the fine scuffs, swirl marks from washing grit and light oxidation. Best if using a orbital buffer with this.
Then I went onto the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze #39007. This is a polish. The misconception is Polish vs. Wax. Polish is not wax and doesnt repel the water and conraminants. It is very light and used to enhance the shine. Used on new painted vehicles to keep the shine B4 wax can be applied. You cant wax a freshly painted surface until it fully cures. But you can polish it. The Hand Glaze/Polish step can be used anytime and on older painted surfaces. Just as long as wax is applied over it.
Lastly I applied Mothers Carnauba Wax in the can. I hate liquid waxes. They go on too thin and suck! Carnauba is the best wax and is also best in paste/can. Last longer too. I tried the 3Ms new Liquid Wax, but was un-impressed. Out of all waxes I have ever used, and theres pretty much every kind I have tried, the Mothers Carnauba is hands down the best!
A few side notes.......1. CleanerWax is for lazy people who could care lees about the long-term. It doesnt clean the paint very well nor does it last like it should. 2. Ive used the Liquid 3-step Mothers and Meguiers B4. I like the Meguiars better of those. But the wax step, I still prefer the Mothers Carnauba in the can (instead of either brands liquid). 3. 3M makes the best line of finishing and re-finishing compounds/glazes/machining products. But their wax has always fell short. 4. If you can find it, The WaxShop's HandGlaze is one of the best polishes Ive used. Id actually prefer it over the 3M used here. Dont forget to wax after =). 5. Care after the wax job is essential for its longivity. Be sure to dust it off with a soft towel every few days, if it rains and then sunshines, try to dry off the water manually instead of letting it sun-dry. Quick-Detailers are good to use on road dirt and stuff. I used Meguiars regularly with success, but am liking the EagleOne stuff I bought recently. The Mothers Showtime I was unimpressed with.
I used foam applicators for the Polish/Glaze and Wax.
I used terry applicators where instructed by the 3M products.
I used terry towels (one for each step/product) to remove the wax/polish/compound after it dired.
I used soft buffing rags for final buff by hand on the Polish and Wax steps.
I used a soft-bristle toothbrush (yes thats correct) to remove the dried wax in the seams, around the crevices and emblems. That and a soft buffer rag. This is usually done the next day after that stuff has dried out. Also door jambs.
I started with a good wash job using ArmorAll Wash gel. It works good. Its one of the few I like to use.
I assesed the water as it dried/runs off after rinsing. When it beads up, you know you have a good wax cote. If it has a slight bead, than its time to wax or polish and wax. If it sheets, then its time to do the full treatment. You could just add the wax, but why cover up dirt in the paint.
Mine wasnt doing so hot.
I used some 3M Heavy Compound for Dark paint on some areas. Just basically clearcote scuffs and whatnot.
Then I went over those same areas, but broader coverage with some 3M FinseseIt Light Compound. This is for 1500 grit and finer scratches and will smooth outy the cutting by the heavier compound. Usually this is where I start. But there was some places that needed the Heavy Comp treatment.
Next I used some 3M PerfectIt Polishing Pad Glaze #39009 for Dark paint. This glaze is used to smooth the fine scuffs, swirl marks from washing grit and light oxidation. Best if using a orbital buffer with this.
Then I went onto the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze #39007. This is a polish. The misconception is Polish vs. Wax. Polish is not wax and doesnt repel the water and conraminants. It is very light and used to enhance the shine. Used on new painted vehicles to keep the shine B4 wax can be applied. You cant wax a freshly painted surface until it fully cures. But you can polish it. The Hand Glaze/Polish step can be used anytime and on older painted surfaces. Just as long as wax is applied over it.
Lastly I applied Mothers Carnauba Wax in the can. I hate liquid waxes. They go on too thin and suck! Carnauba is the best wax and is also best in paste/can. Last longer too. I tried the 3Ms new Liquid Wax, but was un-impressed. Out of all waxes I have ever used, and theres pretty much every kind I have tried, the Mothers Carnauba is hands down the best!
A few side notes.......1. CleanerWax is for lazy people who could care lees about the long-term. It doesnt clean the paint very well nor does it last like it should. 2. Ive used the Liquid 3-step Mothers and Meguiers B4. I like the Meguiars better of those. But the wax step, I still prefer the Mothers Carnauba in the can (instead of either brands liquid). 3. 3M makes the best line of finishing and re-finishing compounds/glazes/machining products. But their wax has always fell short. 4. If you can find it, The WaxShop's HandGlaze is one of the best polishes Ive used. Id actually prefer it over the 3M used here. Dont forget to wax after =). 5. Care after the wax job is essential for its longivity. Be sure to dust it off with a soft towel every few days, if it rains and then sunshines, try to dry off the water manually instead of letting it sun-dry. Quick-Detailers are good to use on road dirt and stuff. I used Meguiars regularly with success, but am liking the EagleOne stuff I bought recently. The Mothers Showtime I was unimpressed with.
I used foam applicators for the Polish/Glaze and Wax.
I used terry applicators where instructed by the 3M products.
I used terry towels (one for each step/product) to remove the wax/polish/compound after it dired.
I used soft buffing rags for final buff by hand on the Polish and Wax steps.
I used a soft-bristle toothbrush (yes thats correct) to remove the dried wax in the seams, around the crevices and emblems. That and a soft buffer rag. This is usually done the next day after that stuff has dried out. Also door jambs.