Body work tips please!

[Tink]

OK, so I have to re-locate my fuel door to the right rear of the box... I've never done body work before, other than some patching with fiberglass... So, my plan is to make a card-board template, and cut out the fuel door with a few inches around it, using the template, then cut the same size hole where it needs to go...

So, I just tac weld it in place? My neighbor suggested keeping the air hose nearby and then I could cool the tacs as I go to keep from warping. Any tips, suggestions? Never done anything like this, so I don't want to f-up my truck!

Also, I have a bad spot (rust) on top of my cab... I'm thinking of just fiberglassing that... or should I replace it with metal?

[87wildside]

Take a piece of sheet metal and make a template from it. I suggest making it 2" larger in height and width. That way you have enough room to work but will stay close to the bends to help keep it straight. Use it to mark where the filler door is and where it is going. When you cut out the door make sure to cut on the outside of the lines. The opposite for the new spot, stay inside the lines. This way it will be a very close fit. You may be able to use the template as the filler piece but it's doubtful.

When I but filler pieces in I tack all the corners and then the a center tack between the corners. Wait at least 5 minutes and then work you way around putting a tack next to the ones you just did, Let cool and repeat (you can go work on the other side but thats a PITA to move your welding equipment). When I get it about half way welded I grind it down to look for any holes and so I don't have to grind all at once. My preference is a 120 grit flap wheel. They seem to remove the weld faster then the courser grits.

I have never cooled my tacks. My theory is if you cool it to fast it will warp more. Eastwood sells some gel that absorbs the heat. Never tried it but If you are very nervous it may help.

I have never had any luck with fiberglass and steel bonded together. It always spider webs, then rusts. It is because the expand and contract at different rates.

If you still have any old body panels use them to test you welds on so you can find the right temp for your angle and stick out. It's not as hard as it seems and as long as you don't warp it real bad you can use filler.

We all know you can handle it :)

[Hammer Head]

Thank you Tink & Eric.. now I don't have to ask the question & I still got all the answers, for when I do some body work. :D

[Mikz86TA]

You should get a racing cap and bolt it on. hehehe

[87wildside]

I forgot one very important thing. Make sure to deburr the edges. It will help you with welding. I use a medium file.

[Chrisvich]

"I have never had any luck with fiberglass and steel bonded together. It always spider webs, then rusts. It is because the expand and contract at different rates."

Eric
How did you bond the glass to the metal? I have had some luck by using an abundance of bondoglass behind the piece being installed then putting a screw into it to hold it down. After that, wipe away the extra and use it to mold the edge. Sand down till its smooth and presto.

[Jay_Pollard]

make sure your metal is clean too...no paint/primer when ur trying to weld...seems obvious, but I have seen people overlook it. Keep your tacks spaced out, the more you space your tacks out, the less chance your going to warp the metal. Let it cool naturally...cooling it with a damp rag or air gun can cause it to warp.
Make sure to disconnect your battery as well, the voltage spikes from welding has been known to take out electrical devices (ie radios, computers..)
Your using a Mig welder right? Gas welder or gasless (flux core wire)?
Set up your welder on a piece of scrap sheet metal that is the same gauge that your panel and filler piece is.

[Hammer Head]

I had some aluminum oxide sand paper that made quick work of deburing & cleaning the paint/rust off my surfaces. ...I still kept a file around for the big stuff.

[Tink]

It is a gasless, flux core wire welder.... I'm thinking of putting the bed on, marking out where everything needs to be, then putting it on some saw-horses for ease of working on it.

On the cab, it is rusted right above the windshield, in the center. I thought about fiberglass, so I don't have to remove the visors and headliner. I've done fiberglass on the Blazer and it seems to have held up OK.

[87wildside]

Tink; with flux core just do small round tacks. I shaved my handles with flux core and it came out fine.

"I have never had any luck with fiberglass and steel bonded together. It always spider webs, then rusts. It is because the expand and contract at different rates."

Eric
How did you bond the glass to the metal? I have had some luck by using an abundance of bondoglass behind the piece being installed then putting a screw into it to hold it down. After that, wipe away the extra and use it to mold the edge. Sand down till its smooth and presto.I used epoxy resin and fiberglass mat. Used 36 grit on the steel before the glass went on. I may just have bad luck with it.

[dt4ts3]

I'm with the guys who have had no luck with fiberglass. Welded in metal is always better in my book.