rlith
12-20-04, 10:14 AM
We all replace brakes. (Well, most of us do anyway). It's a fairly simple procedure.
One thing that we often overlook when changing the front brakes out are the rear brakes!!!!
Yes, the rear shoes can last up to a 100k or better with proper servicing. But the problem is they occaionally need adjusting. Typically the average fellow when changing the front brakes completely forget about adjusting the rears.
Why do I need to adjust the rears after all this time? You might say. Because of load! Typically cars/trucks use a 60% load on the front and 40% load on the rear for stopping. If you start changing pads, the rear needs to be adjusted to maintain that split. If you don't adjust them, the load starts increasing to the front casusing all sorts of problems.
What problems? Prematurly worn pads, warped rotors, liquified pads, heated brake fluid, longer stop time, et-al .
Ever take a drive after you've just installed your new front brakes and start smelling burning asbestos? More than likely it's because you didn't adjust the rear shoes.
To adjust the rear brakes is a relatively easy process. (No backing up doesn't always do it) If your adjusters are in good shape, simply lift the back end of the truck off the ground (jack under the pumpkin) and spin the wheel. Stick a flat head screwdriver through the adjusting slot and using it like a pick, pry UPWARDS. Prying upwards causes the adjuster to move counter clockwise which spreads the shoes. For evertime you PICK the adjuster wheel, turn your wheel on that side a rotation or two. You should hear just the slightest rub inside the drum and feel feather resistance. Repeat this process on the opposite rear wheel.
Now if your adjusters are rusty your best bet is to simply replace them, but you can still try to adjust them.
Pull your wheel and drum, move the adjuster lockout (will move about a 1/4 inch) Using a fladhead screwdriver and a hammer, start tapping on the adjuster wheel tooth until it breaks loose. For every 1/4 inch you manage to move the adjust wheel, put the drum back on and rotate. Same as above, feel for feather light resistance and rub. Repeat this on the opposite wheel.
Put your wheels back on and go for a test drive. You will now notice that your brakeing is far superior to what it was.
Better braking, better wear on the front brakes, and safer overall... :jump2_125
One thing that we often overlook when changing the front brakes out are the rear brakes!!!!
Yes, the rear shoes can last up to a 100k or better with proper servicing. But the problem is they occaionally need adjusting. Typically the average fellow when changing the front brakes completely forget about adjusting the rears.
Why do I need to adjust the rears after all this time? You might say. Because of load! Typically cars/trucks use a 60% load on the front and 40% load on the rear for stopping. If you start changing pads, the rear needs to be adjusted to maintain that split. If you don't adjust them, the load starts increasing to the front casusing all sorts of problems.
What problems? Prematurly worn pads, warped rotors, liquified pads, heated brake fluid, longer stop time, et-al .
Ever take a drive after you've just installed your new front brakes and start smelling burning asbestos? More than likely it's because you didn't adjust the rear shoes.
To adjust the rear brakes is a relatively easy process. (No backing up doesn't always do it) If your adjusters are in good shape, simply lift the back end of the truck off the ground (jack under the pumpkin) and spin the wheel. Stick a flat head screwdriver through the adjusting slot and using it like a pick, pry UPWARDS. Prying upwards causes the adjuster to move counter clockwise which spreads the shoes. For evertime you PICK the adjuster wheel, turn your wheel on that side a rotation or two. You should hear just the slightest rub inside the drum and feel feather resistance. Repeat this process on the opposite rear wheel.
Now if your adjusters are rusty your best bet is to simply replace them, but you can still try to adjust them.
Pull your wheel and drum, move the adjuster lockout (will move about a 1/4 inch) Using a fladhead screwdriver and a hammer, start tapping on the adjuster wheel tooth until it breaks loose. For every 1/4 inch you manage to move the adjust wheel, put the drum back on and rotate. Same as above, feel for feather light resistance and rub. Repeat this on the opposite wheel.
Put your wheels back on and go for a test drive. You will now notice that your brakeing is far superior to what it was.
Better braking, better wear on the front brakes, and safer overall... :jump2_125